Video: 3 Tips to Get the Right Room Temperature

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Patrick

Subject: Carrier Infinity System & Low Continuous fan mode

Look in to the Carrier infinity system. Between cooling cycles the fan shits down 15 minutes allowing the evaporator coil to drain the condensation from the coil and pan and prevent re evaporation. The carrier infinity system zoning is also a great zoning system. It doesn't require a bypass damper or dump zone. The electronic damper modulate according to the airflow assessed for each Zone when the system is installed. It performs a duct assessment and knows the static pressure for each zone, sample leakage and percentage of airflow each zone uses. It's the only system of its kind. Carrier R&D cost are is the same as the other top three manufacturers put together.
It notifies you and the contractor if the system has a malfunction and you can control the system remotely from your phone with a app on Apple or android app stores. I love working on this equipment! I could go on and about the features. Find a factory authorized dealer to meet with you for an free estimate.

Janes Kittrell

Subject: Uneven temps in the house

Our master bedroom is hot in summer and is separated from the other bedrooms by the den and the thermostat is on that end. I'm considering putting an auxiliary pusher fan in the ductwork to kick on when the A.C kicks on to even out cooling. Another option is to put an auxiliary unit in the top of the wall

Audrey

Subject: Temp Difference between front living area & bedrooms & baths

The front of my home is warm and comfortable, however, my bedrooms & baths are really cold. We have an attic fan and cold air was coming in around the baffles so my husband covered it. We just had our air vents cleaned a week ago. Do you have any ideas what might be causing this problem?

Mark Bishton

Subject: Temperature Comfort

I am a home inspector with 42 years of building systems experience.
Theoretically, if the duct system of a heating-cooling system has been designed & installed correctly temperatures should be within a couple degrees in all rooms.
This is frankly too often NOT the case & replacing or modifying duct work is commonly difficult to impossible without opening up walls, ceilings.
I've found that keeping bedroom doors closed on the 2nd floor, prevents or slows the cool air brought in during AC season from flowing out the rooms & down the stairs. It also helps keep those rooms from overheating in the winter.
This is simple advice & can be applied to any home, no matter the system.
I am often asked what brand of equipment to purchase. I respond by saying the most important thing is having a competent HVAC technician determine the proper size or capacity of the equipment, then develop a good design for the duct system & then installing it according to the design. Getting all 3 of these done is rare. It is sometimes nearly impossible to get conditioned air in proper volume & velocity to rooms farthest from the furnace in multilevel & complex shaped homes without additional fans, dampers & thermostats, etc. That's money & both builders & buyers often nix this forcing the HVAC guy to put "Cinderella's shoe on her sister's foot". Not surprisingly comfort is compromised!

Ted Gray

Subject: air return

Cutting off three quarters of an inch on the bottom of all doors going to the return will also adjust air flow.

Susan

Subject: Fan on all the time

I was having this problem, and followed the advise to keep the fan on all the time -it worked wonderfully, until I got the next electric bill. Needless to say, the fan is no longer left on all the time. We live with the difference in the temperature, or try to keep doors open and use other methods to move the air around the house.

Ed Miller

Subject: Heat Pump fan switch setting continously 'on.

I read recently that leaving a fan setting 'on' could cause additional moisture and possibly mold in your home because the chamber where coils are located may have moisture after the cooling or heating cycle is complete. With the 'on' fan setting, this could cause moist air from the chamber to be blown throughout the home. An interesting contrast to what is recommended above.

Gary Kemper

Subject: Zoning

I am a state certified contractor. When adding a damper to control your air flow from up stairs to downstairs. It is important to make sure your duct system is designed to handle the extra air flow you are introducing. If not important to add back flow damper to allow pressure to escape rather than cause you duct system to come apart of causing a mold problem if you are in a humid climate. Thermostat needs to be with in 6 feet from return air.

Joe

Subject: Heat pump

I have a new house
With full basement and heat pump
Our thermostat is a cheap digital
I'm interested in add dampers at wifi controlled unit
Our basement maintains temp well from a low of 50 last winter to high of 75 with 30 days of outside temps in the 110 range

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what should you pay.  You pay what you can afford.  1100sqft unit requires a min. of a two ton unit.  prices range from 2100-2900 depending upon the seers of the system.  13 seer is the min. the law requires  and for your situation with 1100 sqft.  do not worry about the seers as long as it is to code.  the bigger the house the more seers for economy.  1100 sqft is at the border line for a two ton system.  It is more important to have your new system balance, there is where you get the economy on your electric bill and gas.  Bryant, lenox, ruud and carrier are the brands you should stay with.All have the same basic factory warrantee and will last you longer than you expect as long as you maintain it with regular check ups twice a year once in the spring and then in the fall.

raymond gonzalez
koolray heating and air
 clarksville,tn
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APRStore.com offers a nice sizing chart for HVAC capacitors and furnace capacitors. Most of the capacitors I've looked at are $5 to $15 dollars, so a little less than Home Depot and Lowes.

 

Replacement is really easy, but be sure to watch a youtube video on how to replace it like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IpydZIsOJg

 

Stay safe and hire a professional if you feel unsure about doing it yourself!

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The only thing of importance, is the hvac professional you choose to use. Alot of manufacturer's pieces are built relatively the same, and will last about the same amount of time. The thing that matters most is what you can not compare between companies, and that is the installation. Purchasing a system is not like purchasing a car, where no matter where you buy it, they are all the same. Each installation is different, and usually what you are paying for is the level of expertise, and quality of the installation, the company who will actual give you the warranty, and the comfort that you will receive. Manufacturers warranties disappear every day. They always have a loophole where they can get out of paying, but your local dealer wants to keep you happy for future work, and to protect his reputation in the communiy. Look up 4 year old Nordyne and Goodman warranty problems. Choose the HVAC professional first. It will cost you the least in the long run. I have had to totally redo plenty of installations that were just performed because of an uncomfortable customer, and a system that keeps breaking down. The equipment is only as good as it's installation, and over 70% are not installed correctly.
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I think maybe you are confusing SEER, which is an efficiency-related rating (higher SEER means more effective use of the electric power used to compress the gas), and TONS rating, which is a measure of the total cooling power of the system. (Tons used to mean how many tons per hour of ice was used in evaporative cooling building systems - a Refrigeration or Cooling Ton equals 12,000 Btu/Hour of energy exchange. A BTU, which is another antique measure but still used, is the energy needed to change the temperature of a pound of water one degree fahrenheit. Unfortunately, because of varying humidity and evaporation, this is not readily related to house air heating or cooling without a lot of assumptions and some computations. Relating this to today's world - the Manuals BayAreaAc referred to account for all these energy conversions and determine an estimated cooling (or heating) requirement for your specific house. The type of construction, solar exposure, general climatic conditions such as average temperatures, humidity, and hottest and coldest normal ambient temperatures and desired inside temperture are all taken into account in the more sophisticated versions of the analysis, so there is no "standard", though a rough old rule of thumb was about 1 ton of cooling per 500SF of house. Obviously, this was a WAG only because it did not account for insulation, type of roofing, whether you live in Alaska or Miami, etc. The ACCA manuals do a very simplified form of evaluation to arrive at a "design", which generally will be adequate. OF course, highly precise calculations are not really needed because A/C units generally come in even ton ratings - so if you are at say 2.6 ton requirement you will be getting a 3-ton unit anyway. SEER ratings are not a direct measure of efficiency, but the relative difference between ratings gives you good idea of the unit's relative efficency in using electricity - so a 16 SEER should be about 19% more efficient (so roughly comparable lower electricity bill) than a comparably sized 13 SEER unit. 13 SEER is the lowest efficiency currently allowed to be built for general use, 19 SEER is about the highest efficiency made by pretty much all manufacturers, and about 25 SEER is the highest rated though very pricey shelf-item units, though special construction custom units can reach about 30 SEER. Note however, like any government sponsored rating, much of it is hooey when you get down to it - for instance, SEER ratings are figured based on 80 degree inside air temp and 82 degrees outside, when that is far from the normal case of mid to low seventies inside and high eighties or above outdoors. This makes the absolute SEER rating meaningless, but relative numbers still have meaning in comparing units. Note these efficiency ratings are for conventional air conditoners and heat pumps working in ambient air conditions. Ground sourced Geothermal or lake/river exchange cooling units, though initially more expensive in most cases, can greatly exceed the air-exchange unit efficiencies because they are exchanging heat with cold natural water rather than with a high-temperature outside air, and instead of continually compressing a gas are just circulating cold water. I worked on one geothermal cooling project which had almost infinite efficiency, which of course makes no sense - but the only power was for sensors and a control valve as the water flow was single-pass under gravity flow, so no power was used to circulate the water.