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A
"However, when they got here I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I did not need to spend hundreds of dollars to do that. I mean hundreds too as it would" involve removing a very old vent system which meant roof damage to repair as well as bathroom ceiling damage to repair should he have had to do that. Boy, was I grateful I called them. Thank you Angie's List for letting me get to know this company through your coupons.
, a great service man and a wonderful person, informed me that he could adjust the motors and they should work for a long time to come. He adjusted them and I couldn't be happier. They also responded immediately for a service date after I paid for their special. I highly recommend them!! Oh, yes,
used a tablet and sent the invoice and a photo of the motor type directly to my email account prior to leaving. It also had a nice little "thank you" on it from all of them. I was really impressed and won't be using anyone else. By the way, I say that
is a wonderful person because he rescues animals, like I do. My old cat and dog just loved him which is really unusual. So, I felt very safe using him. He was extremely knowledgeable.

-Sandra L S.

F
"don't send me any more Angie's list "Great Deals" to me. What should have been a
wire a plug for a reasonable price soon" turned into a very expensive service. So expensive I wouldn't have committed to even with out "Angie's List Great Deal"!!!!!!!!!! I sent the provider packing (not enough information to discover this before I executed the transaction). Shame on Angie's list for even posting this kind of stuff. The unfortunate part is the y'all put the technician in a bad spot by trying to salvage or explain this lousy deal. I just got ripped off for the $39 that I paid for the "Special". Never Again...................................Angie....Great that you are trying to monetize your site but please don't pull this kind of stuff to just make a few
....

-K W.

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Local Articles in Waunakee

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Waunakee

A

Rating
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
is great and really knows what he is doing. He was able to identify the problem and fix it that day. We were very pleased with the service and grateful that
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to help us on his day off.
- noreen M.
A

Rating
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
came around 8:30 A.M. on January 20, 2015 with his apprentice.
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
instructed his apprentice on exactly what needed to be done and provided him with some useful tips. They then proceeded to install the three-way switches in both the kitchen and laundry room. In about two hours both sets of switches were installed. They discovered though that the stock person did not provide them with the decora switches and they had to use standard design switches. The decora switches were brought out about 3 days later to replace the standard switches at no extra charge. While the apprentice installed the garage lights,
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
carefully located and drilled holes for the under cabinet lighting and fished the walls for the wiring to provide a finished look. The apprentice finished the garage lighting in an hour and then continued on to work on the kitchen and foyer lights. All work was finished at 4 P.M. and the areas were cleaned up.
- Fred B.
A

Rating
Had multiple sockets and switches fail in a room. Contact
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
early in morning. He responded immediately and swung by in the afternoon to fix the problem. Excellent response and work. Would highly recommend him.
- Geren S.
A

Rating
I recently moved to a home and was anxious to have the electrical system looked at by a professional. I also had a few nonworking outlets and fixtures I need to replace. Pat came over right away. He immediately made me feel comfortable and it was more than evident that he was knowledgable and experienced. He identified some issues that needed my attention sooner rather than later and he was honest about what could really wait. He changed an outlet for me on while he was here because I had told him Verizon was coming the following day and he wanted to make sure I didn't have any problems. Pat gave me an honest opinion and an honest price. I know that in the future, I'll use Pat and
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
for any electrical repairs and I am confident the job will be done right the first time.
- Melissa H.
A

Rating
These guys were awesome. They were readily available to come check out and look at what we were wanting, gave us an affordable deal and were even available to do the job on the spot. They were super friendly, cleanly and got the job done quickly. The ceiling fan and light they installed look awesome I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking for a friendly affordable company to go with and I will definitely be calling them in the future If I have any other needs
- Tom V.
A

Rating
When we moved into our home, there were stone columns at the end of our driveway with wires coming out the top, but no lights attached.
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the only electrician who could figure out a way to attach pillar lights and run the wiring back to our house. Several other electricians who came to look at the job had no clue.
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
's team did a fantastic job and
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
coordinated with a landscaper who placed a pipe conduit under our driveway. He also put in other landscape lighting in trees. The lighting has beautified our property tremendously. Since then I have hired
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
for multiple jobs including wiring for a wall mounted TV and installation of surround system with ceiling speakers, installation of whole house generator: replacing ceiling fixtures with recessed lights, etc. I have always been 100% pleased in every aspect with the work performed and will continue to utilize
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electric for any needed electrical work.
- cecilia K.
A

Rating
Great! They were on time, kind, thorough and fast. I didn't want the exterior of my garage to be effected cosmetically and they did a great job of making sure that didn't happen. They didn't take short cuts. They also answered all of my questions. I enjoyed the experience which is great considering I have not had that experience with recent contractors. Super grateful!
- Susan S.
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Rating
Amazing!
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a great guy, very personable and very professional and priced very reasonably. We were having power issues on a Saturday morning and after realizing I couldn't fix it myself, I gave
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
a call and he arrived 15 minutes later. I couldn't get some of the GFI's to reset and after replacing them,
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
determined that the overall issue was a problem that
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
Energy was responsible for fixing a couple of houses over at the transformer. While
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
was here, I asked him to take a look at one of our ceiling fans that stopped working about a month prior after a power surge.
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
replaced the remote in the fan, which was no easy task the way this fan was set up. We couldn't test it out until around 7PM that night when
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
finally fixed their issues and the fan worked!
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
checked in a couple of times during the wait for
Waunakee Electricians Provider Name Locked
to see if they had shown up yet and make sure that once their work was completed everything worked okay.
- Stefan K.

Electricians in Waunakee, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A H Remodeling LLC

306 Eugenia Ave
Madison

A&E Construction and Remodeling, LLC

1737 Park Street
Middleton

A-A Exteriors

N2575 Orchard Way
Waupaca

Accurate Custom Creations

3926 Calvert Rd
Madison

Action Organizing Services LLC®

5464 N Port Washington Rd
Milwaukee

Adams Columbia Electric Cooperative

401 E Lake St
Friendship

Advanced Home Services

837 Royster Ave
Madison

Affordable Home Maintenance

4545 American
Cottage Grove

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Comfort Services Inc

5245 Voges Rd
Madison

All Energy Solar

121 Orange St
Prescott

All Season Exteriors

408 S Madison St
Stoughton

Alliance Electric

2114 Allen Blvd
Middleton

ALPHA ELECTRIC

350 Business Park Drive
Sun Prairie

American Enterprises Inc

5119 Bong Rd
Waunakee

Arch Electric INC

W4499 SUMAC RD
Plymouth

AVT ELECTRIC

5051 VIENNA DR
Waunakee

B&B Home Renovations

24 sinykin cir

BALLWEG ELECTRIC INC

S9550 RAHL RD
Prairie Du Sac

Becker Home Improvement Inc.

208 Maria Ln
Cottage Grove

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

Chads Design Build

5000 Wallace Ave
Madison

CLARK CONSTRUCTION

121 HANOVER STREET
Janesville

CLARK ELECTRIC

808 Railroad St.
New Glarus

CODY'S ELECTRIC

115 W MAIN ST
Waunakee

Complete Handyman

2168 Parmenter St
Middleton

CORRECT CABLE

275 BRUCE ST
Verona

Culver Electric, LLC

7242 Squire Circle
Middleton

D & D Wiring Services

763 Northern Ct
Stoughton

D Mobile Media LLC

4510 femrite dr
Madison

D.P. Electric

1884 Burma Rd.
Barneveld

DANE COUNTY PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

901 LORI LN
Sun Prairie

Dauman Electric

295 Swarthout Rd
Fall River

Degnan Design Builders Inc

134 Ethun Pl
De Forest

Design Electric of Madison, Inc

6320 Monona Dr
Madison

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Doug's Handyman Service Inc

161 Horizon Dr
Verona

E & S Electric

251 Blue Mounds St
Mount Horeb

E & W Home Improvement

417 Diving Hawk Trail
Madison

Easy Way

1310 Baitinger Ct
Sun Prairie

Electric Medic - A division of Gaffney Electric

1897 Broadway Rd
Wisconsin Dells

Electrical Solutions, Inc

2928 County Rd MN
Stoughton

Electrician Madison

2810 Crossroads Drive Suite 4000
Madison

Energy Efficient Solutions, LLC

2997 Yarmouth Greenway Dr
Fitchburg

ENLIGHTEN ELECTRIC

115 Lincoln Avenue
Prairie Du Sac

Epic Electric Inc.

721 Pony Lane

Ever Ready Electric, Inc.

6900 Pape Road
Mazomanie

Everything Electrical

409 South Walker Way
Sun Prairie

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Fearing's Audio Video Security

722 Walsh Rd
Madison

Feiner Electric LLC

118 S. Thompson Rd.
Sun Prairie

Felt Remodeling LLC

2521 Upham St
Madison

File 13 E Waste Solutions LLC

3460 Meier Rd Ste 2
Madison

First Electric LLC

P.O. Box 930345
Verona

Fix'm Home Repairs LLC

PO Box 620795
Middleton

H & H Electric Co Inc

3201 Latham Dr
Madison

Hammer Builders LLC

9830 Dunlap Hollow Rd
Mazomanie

Handy Home Services

6219 US Hwy 51 South
Janesville

Handyman and Remodeling Services

749 Edgemore Dr
Sun Prairie

Handyman Matters of Madison

5613 Stadium Dr.
Madison

Happy To Help Home Improvement

5725 Elder Place
Madison

Harrison Construction

1500 Bradford Bay
Waunakee

Helping Hands Electric LLC

PO Box 46413
Madison

HIGH COUNTRY ELECTRIC

N3581 BIRCHWOOD DR.
Poynette

Hill Electric

1513 Emil St
Madison

Hill's Wiring Inc

615 W Hill St
Baraboo

HLW BUILDERS LLC

2870 Terra Ct Ste 5
Sun Prairie

I Know A Guy

1114 Warner St
Black Earth

INFINIT LLC

204 MORAVIAN VALLEY RD
Waunakee

Interior Trim Renovations LLC

W14275 Miller Ct
Prairie Du Sac

Isthmus Electric LLC

4614 Milwaukee St
Madison

J&K Security Solutions

1605 S. Park Street
Madison

JC Premier Seal

PO Box 8533
Madison

JNS Remodeling

46 N West Sedgemeadow St
Elkhorn

JOHN POTTER

3537 BASALT LN
Madison

K & N Services

9920 W St Rd 213
Beloit

KITCHEN IDEAS CTR

2016 S STOUGHTON RD
Madison

KITCHEN SOLVERS

6516 Monona Drive
Madison

Kool View Co.

4705 TRIANGLE ST
Mc Farland

KRANTZ ELECTRIC INC

2650 N NINE MOUND RD
Verona

Larson Electric

4606 Meredithe Ave
Madison

laurie electric and contracting

6143 dell dr.
Madison

Ledvina Electric

N 126 ARNOLD RD
Columbus

Legacy Custom Remodeling LLC

7602 Riverside Rd
Verona

Let Mikey Do It

5114 Butterfield Dr
Madison

Marc Electric

N5372 County Rd A
Fall River

MAYBERRY ELECTRIC

9356 DUNLAP HOLLOW RD
Mazomanie

McNamee Electric

1300 Muller Rd.
Marshall

MIDDLETON ELECTRIC

7725 Westman Way Rd
Middleton

Mr Sparky LLC

4840 Ivywood Trl
Mcfarland

MURPHY ELECTRIC LLC

1836 FRISCH RD
Madison

NELSON ELECTRIC LLC

4550 GARFOOT RD
Cross Plains

Nextgen Construction LLC

P.O. Box 620523
Middleton

Nick Electric

3941 Lewis St
Verona

NO SHORTS ELECTRIC LLC

1768 KAASE RD
Stoughton

NORLIN BUILDERS

174 DUNNING ST
Madison

Northside Electric

1806 Sheridan Dr
Madison

O'Ryans LLC

4606 Cody Ln
Madison

Oimoen Electric Inc

4238 Bohle Rd
Blue Mounds

PARKS ELECTRICAL

7411 VOSS PKWY
Middleton

PHARO HEATING AND COOLING

5341 W River Rd
Waunakee

Prana Electric, LLC

1041 E Gorham St
Madison

PREFERRED ELECTRIC & HEATING

6891 LEONARD RD
De Forest

Project Home

1966 S Stoughton Rd
Madison

Property Image LLC

967 Jonathon Dr
Madison

REIS ELECTRIC INC

1001 ARBORETUM DR
Waunakee

Renovate This Place, LLC

17 Arial Cir
Madison

rockwell painting

1766 drotning rd.
Stoughton

SCHORR CONSTRUCTION INC

6520 SUNSET DR
Verona

SELECTRIC INC

P.O. Box 259811
Madison

SIMPLY STATED INTERIORS LLC

P.O. Box 92
Sun Prairie

Spectrum Home Services

4610 Conestoga Trail
Cottage Grove

STATZ CONSTRUCTION SERVICES LLC

3600 HEATHER CT
Middleton

STROICK CONSTRUCTION & REMODELING

209 BENTLEY PL
Footville

SWEITZER ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 628494
Middleton

SYSTEM AND REPAIRS

PO BOX 3091
Madison

TAK Remodeling LLC

1791 Borchert Rd
Verona

The Electric Needle

6612 Odana Rd
Madison

The Electrician Inc

515 Springdale St
Mount Horeb

Thomas Lulinski Home Finishing Inc

1109 Giles St
Stoughton

Thompson Custom Builders

5830 Lexington St
Mcfarland

Time 2 Remodel LLC

1218 Gilson St
Madison

TLC Painting

1109 Park St
Stoughton

Tri-City Electric LLC

P.O. Box 126
Mazomanie

URBAN REMODELING

4603 MONONA DR
Madison

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren Heating & Air Conditioning

1741 Commercial Ave
Madison

Waunakee Remodeling Inc

1001 Frank H St
Waunakee

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Webster Bath Remodeling

W2888 Conway Trl
Belleville

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

World Class Outdoor Lighting

Pine Hollow Ct
Waukesha

ZWEIFEL ELECTRIC

3567 STATE RD 78
Mount Horeb

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