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A
"Mr.
really saved my day. He is extremely smart and knows what he is doing. He is able to fix our problem in 5 minutes where as other Plumbers" took several hours but still didn't do it. I couldn't believe when
said that it's small problem, because the other plumbers told me that it's a big job and it will cost more than $1000. I am very impressed with
and with Mr.
. Thank you for saving me over $1000. I am very busy and don't have time to write these kind of reviews. But in this case I made time because I am very happy with the professional service provided. I recommend Mr.
and
to anyone.

-Arjun K.

A
"
told me on the phone that he's "not a snake guy," but I told him I thought we were beyond snakes, so he offered to take a" look. He came to the house that afternoon. He did exactly what he said he'd do.

-MARY S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Pottsville

A

Rating
I can't say enough good things about the work provided by
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his colleagues. This man is an artist. He is knowledgable, pleasant, reliable, comprehensive... you get the picture. This work is beyond compare. There isn’t a corner unsealed, a wire uncrimped, a tube unsecured or a hole unsealed. I’ve worked with countless trade contractors though three homes of various states of age and construction. This work has no peer. Fantastic.
He found the flaws in the work of others and fixed them. He explained my options with exHAUSting detail. He helped make decisions without regard to financial gain. His pricing, after extensive research, is outSTANDing. Seriously. Look no further.
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
has also done minor plumbing and electrical work around our house. He's that guy. You need his number.
- Hugh E.
F

Rating
Spoke to a central answering service that stated that they would be able to come to my location. I was given a phone number for the local office when I called some guy answered but I could barely hear him and it was like a "ya" instead of a professional " Rooter Rooter how can I help" answer. Then he was less than interested in anything I had to say and just said can't help you we don't go to your location. I tried to say that the central answering service said they did he just said "don't know what to tell you we don't" bye. then hung up on me.
- Wayne T.
A

Rating
These people were punctual, polite and professional. I couldn't have asked for better service. I would heartily recommend them to anyone. The tech came in and went to work immediately and didn't stop or slow down until the job was completed. I appreciate the excellent service and will keep them in mind for any further plumbing problems that come up.
- CAROL F.
A

Rating
I called
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, because I had noticed rust and white material around screws in my toilet tank. Mr.
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
checked my tank and told me that the rust around the screws was normal, and the white material around the screws was only a seal. He told me that he would not feel right charging me for this service call because nothing needed to be fixed.
Mr.
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
is a very honest man, who could of replaced whatever in my tank, and charged me for unnecessary work. I will definitely call him in the future for any plumbing issues that I might have.
- Jeanne B.
A

Rating
The Plumber
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
of
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was professional, friendly and truly competent. I would recommend this company and especially
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
without any reservation and I would use them for any plumbing needs in the future. Thank you
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and Thanks to Angie Lists.
- Richard S.
A

Rating
The leak was found quickly. They were late for the appointment but they kept me informed of what was going on. They are extremely knowledgeable and understand how to work in a high-rise building. Additionally they understand about the Chicago building codes. There was no mess for me to clean after they left. They were also good at explaining what was going on in laymen's terms. I made a good choice.
I would highly recommend them to anyone who needs help finding a leak or other plumbing repairs.
- Robbin C.
A

Rating
Very pleased with the responsiveness - ordered on Sunday, received a call on Monday. Appt made for Tuesday. The technician had to come back to complete the job, and did so in a timely manner. Overall very pleased so far with the service.
- Susan B.
A

Rating
Pottsville Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and his crew are top notch. Expert workmanship, timely service, punctual, cleaned work area daily. We are so pleased with his work that we are having him back to remodel the kitchen.
- Val F.

Plumbers in Pottsville, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Allen Wolff General Contracting

305 W Main St
Tremont

Altoona Soft Water

445 S. Logan Blvd.
Altoona

Altoona Soft Water

445 S Logan Blvd
Altoona

Antz Energy Systems Inc

325 E Washington St
Shenandoah

C & S Contracting

PO Box 319
Gordon

Carlin's Automotive Repair

Rr 6 Box 6170
Towanda

Central Penn Waterproofing

43 Beattys Tollgate Rd
Marietta

Commercial Service Pros

219 North Julian St
Ebensburg

Contractors M D Inc

Philadelphia

Dierolf Supply Company

311 County Line Rd
Gilbertsville

DIETRICH RENOVATIONS

81 Main Street
Pottsville

Dodge Mechanical

15 S Northkill Rd
Bernville

Energy Technologies Inc

591 N Hunter Hwy
Drums

F & S CONSTRUCTION

154 Brylan Lane
Selinsgrove

Finishers LLC

P.O Box 71
Bloomsburg

Fosbrink Construction

514 dunbar ohiopyle rd dunbar pa

Gilded construction

184 pottsville Street
Lykens

H.B. Steele & Son, Inc.

17 Municipal Rd.
Orwigsburg

H2Pro Restorations

243 Mine Bank Rd
Wellsville

Handy Helpers Remodeling

308 West 5th Avenue
Clearfield

Handyman services, Brent Jones

2 Long Ave
Selinsgrove

House Doctors

239 Main St
Dickson City

Hutchison Construction LLC

150 Oakmont Dr
Hazleton

J & E PLUMBING & HEATING CO

1493 TURNPIKE AVE
Clearfield

J & N General Contracting

101 East Packer Ave
Syre

Jack Rich Inc

617 Altmont Blvd
Frackville

JBJ Construction, Painting, and Remodeling

152 Holly Lynn Dr.
Hazle Township

Joe McShane

Kunkletown

Joe Moore Plumbing & Heating

193 Main St
Pottsville

Kasper Construction

2030 Wiconisco St
Tower City

kieffer construction

246 Hudsondale St
Weatherly

Lagana & Company

388 Airport Beltway

Lewis Painting

213 Russell St
Honesdale

Lock Haven Plumbing & Heating

30 Clarks Barn Rd
Lock Haven

MARK'S SUPPLY CO

230 S Main St
Shenandoah

NHI Construction LLC

127 E Saylor St
Mount Carmel

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

P VARNISH CONTRACTORS

602 DEMUTH ST
Johnstown

P&W Remodeling

217 E Ave
Mount Carmel

PAT'S HEATING

28 S FELTY RD
Pine Grove

PLUM-AIR INC

251 West 32nd St
Hazleton

Pop The Handyman

36 Cadbury St
Pottsville

RAUDENBUSH ENTERPRISES

911 CHESTNUT ST
Ashland

Rentschler's Contracting

PO Box 53
Orwigsburg

Salada Plumbing & Heating

221 Midway Dr
Du Bois

Sewer & Drain Cleaning

8872 Somerset Pike
Boswell

Standby Power Systems

1606 Tanner Ave

The Handy Man Can

400 1st St
Weatherly

Tom Newman Maintenance and Remodeling

140 Pepper Ridge Dr
Spring Mills

Wade Schaeffer Plumbing & Heating

2039 Elm St
Pottsville

Wes's Heat & Air Conditioning

73 Pine Knob Rd
Newville

WILLIAM G DAVIDSON ELECTRICAL

113 MARKET ST
Port Carbon

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