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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Ephrata

electrician installing an LED light

Electricians

Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

Burnt outlet

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you're experiencing issues.

help emergency guide

Emergencies happen to all of us, in all areas of life. But you can and will make it through, especially if you follow this one simple rule: Don’t panic.

pot rack, double pot rack, double light/pot rack, kitchen, kitchen counter

Find some inspiration and ideas for a kitchen lighting project. A little change in light fixture can be an easy way to freshen up your kitchen or other space.

an electric car plugged into a charging station

You'll likely need to have an electrician run a dedicated circuit for your electric car charging station.

hand switching off an electrical circuit breaker

Dear Angie: Does it make sense for me to turn off my circuit breakers before I leave for vacation? — Lucia J., Wakefield, Massachusetts

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Ephrata

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Ephrata, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Man Electric

2755 Trout Run Rd

322 ELECTRIC MOTOR & TOOL

2352 DIVISION HWY
Ephrata

A.L.S Leola Electronic Repair

191 West Main Street
Leola

Affordable Home Services

89 Governor Stable Road
Elizabethtown

AJ Window and Door Solutions Inc

151 Main St
Shoemakersville

ALB Installers LLC

3620 Fair Lane
York

all around contracting

510 Woodward St
Lancaster

Allectric, Inc

2398 Middlegreen court
Lancaster

Allen Building Systems, Inc.

5698 Gingrich Road
Hershey

Alone Eagle Remodeling LLC

113 Bungalow Rd
Enola

Austin's Remodeling

10 Shirley Lane
Lititz

B P CAMPBELL

166 GREEN HILL RD
Conestoga

B&B PLUMBING & HEATING & A/C

36 S FRONT ST
York Haven

B&D Contracting Services

6101 Embers Lane
Harrisburg

B.G ELECTRIC

228 Eagle Path Mountville
Mountville

Bacons Installations

213 riverview drive
Ephrata

Bahret Church Interiors, Inc.

135 North Fairview Ave
Harrisburg

Bair Contracting

1426 Second Avenue
York

BALSER ELECTRICAL SVC

998 LINCOLN GARDENS RD
Ephrata

Bass Mechanical, Inc.

PO Box 306
Silver Spring

BC & Sons Construction Co

483 Pine Grove Rd
Gardners

BCR Building & Repair

134 Birch St
Middletown

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

518 Running Pump Rd
Lancaster

BIEVENOUR ELECTRIC

2698 Olde Field Dr
York

Bill's A/C and Electric Service

5050 Bullitt Rd
Greencastle

BOLL ELECTRIC INC

1212 CLOVERLEAF RD
Mount Joy

Brickhouse Tavern

338 S. Front St
Wrightsville

Brite Ideas Contracting, LLC

2156 Fineview Drive
York

BRUBACKER ELECTRIC

665 WATER ST
Ephrata

Buchanan & Erb

903 S Market St
Mechanicsburg

Capital Choice Home Repair & Remodel

Briarcliff Rd
Middletown

Capitol Remodeling

1550 Vernon Street
Harrisburg

Caretakers Electric

655 Owlhill Rd
Lititz

Catalfano Construction LLC

east willow st
Elizabethtown

Chase & Sons Plumbing

PO Box 513
Lititz

Chillas2 Home Repair LLC

164 Ridings Way
Lancaster

CLOISTER MECHANICAL SVC

422 N MAPLE ST
Ephrata

Cocoa Restaurant Services

1744 Pebbledash Drive
Hershey

Colonial Custom Building and Design

4324 Plymouth Street
Harrisburg

Construxx Inc

P O Box 237
Summerdale

Craig Layton Home Improvements

807 Pheasent Road
Harrisburg

creative home enhancement

720 stoney creek dr

Custom Design Home Improvements

650 N. Middleton RD
Carlisle

Custom Trade Solutions

121 Delta St
Mount Joy

Cutting Edge Renovations Inc

3109 Turnpike Rd
Elizabethtown

Cyr Services

1109 Chestnut St.,
Middletown

D & B Construction Services

1820 Chatham Dr
Camp Hill

D&D CONTRACTORS

2244 N 5TH ST
Harrisburg

DA Batson, Inc.

701 South 4th st

David Atkins Electrical Services, LLC

213 orchard Drive
New Cumberland

DAYSTAR CO INC

2065 W MAIN ST
Ephrata

DDS Handyman Services

121 McAllister St.
Hanover

Deans Electric and Design

407 Redwood Dr
Lancaster

Deimler & Son's Construction

6530 Derry St
Harrisburg

Deitch's mechanical and electrical

1400 mountain road
Harrisburg

Dellinger Electric

25 Shirk Drive
Fredericksburg

Direct Wire and Cable, Inc.

412 Oak Street
Denver

DNM Contracting, INC

7389 Paxton St
Harrisburg

E. H. Williams & Sons

1044 STATE ROUTE 72 N.
Lebanon

EDDIE STEWART CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 13
York Springs

Electrotek Power Systems

204 Snavely Mill Road
Lititz

Elite Construction LLC

521 east main st

Elite Creations by Troy

579 Chestnut Hill Road
Denver

Elite Power Systems Inc.

2474 N. George St.
York

Energy Smart Construction, LLC.

255 Hillcrest Rd
Camp Hill

ENSMINGER BUILDER INC

1223 E CHOCOLATE AVE
Hershey

Expansion Wiring Technologies, LLC

2236 Kensington St.
Harrisburg

Five Star Contracting llc.

507 Market Street
New Cumberland

Fred Cramer

6 Redwood Place
Camp Hill

Fred Smith Painting & Contracting

119 Townhouse Lane
Lancaster

FREDERICK & FREY LLC

154 W King St
Ephrata

FULMER ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 932
Lancaster

G & M Remodeling

204 S Homestead Dr
Landisville

G Law Electrical

81 Fetrow Lane
New Cumberland

G.S. Flook, Inc

450 Valley Road
Etters

Gallo Services LLC

659 Hamilton st.
Carlisle

Gary Kohler Handyman Svc

1106 Briarcliff Rd
Middletown

Giovanni's construction

214 s Lincoln ave
Lebanon

Graybill"s electric

1067 main street p.o. box 520

Griesemer Construction

606 vine st
Middletown

Gruber Services

PO Box 583

H & H ELECTRICAL INC

75 N CHURCH ST
Ephrata

H Malone Home Remodeling

206 N 2nd St
Bainbridge

Haake's Custom Contracting & Design LLC

279 Stone Harvest Way
Palmyra

Haller Enterprise Inc

263 S Whitford rd
Exton

HALLER ENTERPRISES

33 E MAIN ST
Palmyra

Haller Enterprises Inc

212 Bucky Dr
Lititz

handyman specialist

292 n muddycreek rd

Harach Contracting

734 Water St
Pottsville

Harrisburg Organ Service

15 S 20th Street
Harrisburg

Helpful Hands Handyman

50 Logging Road
Leola

HOME ONE HOME IMPROVEMENTS

2600 LITITZ PIKE
Lancaster

Home Remedies Inc.

428 N. George Street
York

HOUSEHOLD ELECTRICAL SVC

152 SCENIC VIEW DR
Ephrata

Hurley Electric

Harrisburg

Husbands Helpers

431 Roosevelt Ave
York

Ibach's Electric

2781 Craley Rd
Wrightsville

Imes Construction LLC

8980 Carlisle Rd
Wellsville

Inovo Security, LLC

2335 Wilkes Rd
Lancaster

Integrity Renovation

606 Auction Rd
Manheim

J Hubler Landscaping

202 Ridgeview Rd. N
Elizabethtown

J. D. Sconyers Electric

117 N. Fourth St.
Columbia

J.R.Bowlsbey Electric

31 Fuller Court
Dover

James Robert Development Corp.

930 Red Rose Ct
Lancaster

Jeffrey S Kauffman

4793 Bentz Rd
Spring Grove

JJ Mobile Home Repair

1550 Williams Grove Rd
Mechanicsburg

Joel R Ulrich

Harrisburg

JOHN BOLAR

950 RIDGE AVE
Ephrata

Jon Chamberlain Electrical Services

1545 Red Bank Road
Dover

JORDAN ELECTRIC

59 N CHURCH ST
Ephrata

Just In Case Plumbing & Electrical, LLC

2080 Broad St
East Petersburg

K&M Mechanical LLC

165 Northcrest Dr
York Haven

Kann Electric

6613 Horse Show RD
Huntingdon

KENAROW ENTERPRISES INC

4044 E HARRISBURG PIKE
Middletown

Keystone State Electrical

1672 Quail Dr
Carlisle

Kingdom Renovations

1 east Main Street, #9

Kitchen Encounters

2603 Lititz Pike
Lancaster

KL KENNEDY REMODELING

9 Oakglade Plaza
Hummelstown

KNIGHT SECURITY SYSTEMS INC

5879 AVIS LN
Harrisburg

Knob Hill Enterprise

90 Knob Hill Rd
Delta

Kuhns Enterprises

New Holland

kwolfe electrical services

64 jury st
Highspire

Lancaster Plumbing Heating & Cooling

1184 Enterprise Rd
East Petersburg

LanChester Handyman

12 Parker Dr
Christiana

Lanco Construction Co

13 Shybrook Ct
Elizabethtown

Langenet Integration LLC

5000 SE Federal HWY #25

larrys remodeling & repair llc

1780 Trinity Rd
Felton

Leggett Inc

1989 Hummel Ave
Camp Hill

Lewis Contracting LLC

PO Box 5
Etters

Lightwater Construction

229 Elm Circle
New Holland

LINE SPECIALTIES INC

11 E TROUT RUN RD
Ephrata

Live Electric LLC

2536 Eastern Blvd STE 454
York

Long Electric Service

6312 Darlington Dr
Harrisburg

LPKenneysLLC

32 State Rd

Macfarlane services

3071a east prospect road
York

MARK FRESE ELECTRIC CONTRACTOR

1135 VICTOR LN
Dauphin

MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC

P.O. Box 53
Millersville

MC CARTY & SON INC

1161 STEINMETZ RD
Ephrata

MEADOWBROOK ELECTRIC

280 Deck Dr
Myerstown

Mesic Services

912 Harrisburg Pike
Carlisle

Mister Sparky Electric

518 Running Pump Rd
Lancaster

Mister Systems

Harrisburg

MK3 Enterprises, LLC

2511 Saint Peters Road
Pottstown

Monyer Electric, LLC

22 Denver Road
Denver

Morgan Electrical Solutions INC

45 Heritage rd
Ephrata

morret construction

2 albert lane

MRB Construction

404 Pierson Road
Lititz

Musser Electric

1150 Marie Ave
Ephrata

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nest Care Construction

1111 S Prince st
Palmyra

NextGen Electric

71 Lamppost Ln
Lancaster

Noel Enterprises Inc

2 Scenic Drive
Lewistown

Omega Electric

25 Marjessa Dr.
Gilbertsville

ORBIT TECHNOLOGIES INC

PO Box 544
East Berlin

Pa HomePro

1500 Smokehouse Lane

PAUL G BURKHOLDER PLBG SUPLS

2120 DIVISION HWY
Ephrata

Paul Gross Construction

24 Hickory Blvd
Lebanon

Pinelli Electric Service

220 Werner St
Wernersville

Quaid's Electric

Harrisburg

QUALITY CRAFTSMEN

501 W PERRY ST
Enola

R and S Tradesmen

607 Rexmont Rd
Lebanon

R L WIEGAND INC

56 LANCASTER AVE
Ephrata

R-Welcome Homes LLC

400 Conestoga Blvd
Lancaster

R. S. Hoffman HVAC

82 Linda Dr.
Mechanicsburg

R.T. Farner Home Improvements

4608 Marblehead Street
Harrisburg

RAY L GOOD ELECTRIC LLC

375 HILLCREST DR
Ephrata

Red Rose Construction

22 Bentley Ln
Lancaster

ReMod Squad

1721 Mountain Road
Dauphin

Remodeling

Camp Hill

RestoreCore, Inc.

2322 N 7th St
Harrisburg

Revitalize Remodeling

116 Spruce St
Middletown

RHM Const

99 South Middlesex Rd
Carlisle

Rineer Contracting

15 Wilson Ave

RL Electric

Columbia

Robert W Strausser & Son, Inc.

295 Manada Bottom Road
Grantville

Ronald Waltersdorff Electric

2295 Carlisle Rd
York

Russell Quick Repair

502 Greenwood Rd
York

Ryco Electric

738 Cherry Lane

S A Davis Electrical

122 Garrison Ln
Carlisle

S J Smith Remodeling

156 E Walnut St
Ephrata

S K MECHANICAL

128 Fieldcrest Ln
Ephrata

S&G Homes, Inc

5525 Locust Lane
Harrisburg

SAND'S ELECTRIC

250 STEFFIE DR
Mount Wolf

SCOTT'S ELECTRIC

106 Ironstone Drive
Lititz

Sensenig Services

3639 Orkney Rd
Mountville

Serc Electric

1290 Toann Road
York

Shakespeare Home Improvement Co

350 E Main St
Mountville

Shell Shockers Home Improvements

99 Valleybrook Dr
Lancaster

Sholl Carpentry & Construction

2310 Bell Drive
Myerstown

SIGN GUY

123 MEADOW VALLEY RD
Ephrata

SIGN MEDIX

2153 Columbia Avenue
Lancaster

SIMMONS ELECTRIC

605 E Butter Rd
York

SM Johns & Son Construction

1021 Anderson Ferry Rd
Mount Joy

Solid Rock Remodeling, LLC

141 N Fileys Rd
Dillsburg

Stone Creek Custom Kitchens & Design LLC

711 S York Street
Mechanicsburg

Sun Rays Electric

8 Green St
Christiana

Sure Lock Homes, LLC

1676 N Reading Rd
Stevens

Susquehanna Flooring Co

1111 Fishing Creek Valley Rd
Harrisburg

SWAM ELECTRIC CO., INC.

490 High Street Hanover
Hanover

T J ELECTRIC

809 PLEASANTVIEW DR
Ephrata

Ta construction & plumbing

1521 center street

TAFcon Construction Incorporated

822 Hill Church Rd
Hummelstown

tate services

Lancaster

Taylor Gas Appliance

62 Walmar Manor
Dillsburg

TCO ELECTRIC

729 Center Ave.
Ephrata

TERRY'S ENTERPRISE

250 RAILROAD AVE
Bird In Hand

The Repairman

971 E Canal Rd
Dover

The Tuckey Companies

170 Stover Dr
Carlisle

Tice Electric

2464 Douglas Dr
Lancaster

TNC HOME IMPROVEMENTS

351 WHITE HOUSE LN
Middletown

TRI-BORO CONSTRUCTION SUPPLIES

465 E LOCUST ST
Dallastown

Tritan Electrical Contractors, Inc.

100 Northridge Dr
Hanover

TruCraft

PO Box 187
Windsor

TSHUDY ELECTRICAL SVC INC

305 DURLACH RD
Ephrata

Valley Electrical Service LLC

561 Meals Rd
Biglerville

Vertex Mechanical Inc

21 Stevens Rd
Stevens

Viastream inc

3051 Fishing Creek Valley Rd
Harrisburg

Vick's Electric

1910 Old Philadelphia Pike
Lancaster

W E PETERS & SON INC ELEC

439 LINCOLN AVE
Ephrata

Walgen Electrical Services

10 Stone Ridge Drive
New Freedom

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEIST BROTHERS

117 ROYER RD
Ephrata

Wesley S. McDonald

760 Homestead Lane
Gap

Whitehat Computer Solutions

18 Sunbury St
Minersville

Whites Service Co

61 Clover Hill Rd
Dallastown

Wilco Electric Inc

701 Prospect Road
Columbia

William Ferguson & Co., LLC

3633 Roundtop Rd
Elizabethtown

Willy B's Electric

Stewartstown

winblood construction

422 7th St # 1
New Cumberland

Winchester Electric

7025 Hemlock rd

WM Buffington Company Inc

115 Lusk Ave
Highspire

ZIMMERMAN ELECTRICAL

65 WEIDMANSVILLE RD
Ephrata

ZIMMERMAN'S ELECTRICAL & PLBG

17 E MOHLER CHURCH RD
Ephrata

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