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Local Articles in Ellwood City

wood deck angie's list guide to decks and porches

Decks and Deck Maintenance

Building a deck or porch can be a great added benefit to any home. Learn about common deck materials and get tips for hiring a porch or decking contractor.

Brick colonial home with portico covered stoop

A portico is an impressive addition to the front of a home.

Composite Deck

Neglecting your deck before a renovation could cost you.

If your deck's frame isn't securely attached to your house with heavy-duty bolts, you could risk a collapse when the deck pulls away from the house (Photo courtesy of Samson Contracting LLC)

Without the proper construction techniques, your deck could put you at a safety risk.

deck with dining set

Wooden decks can deteriorate quickly without proper care and regular maintenance. Follow these 10 guidelines to make your wood deck last as long as possible.

Inspiration & Ideas

covered deck
covered deck
natural stone hardscaping
covered outdoor walkway
paver patio
fiber cement siding

Angie's Answers


I agree with Jim Casper - after about 50 years of dealing with weathered wood finishing both in my homes and in the construction business, it comes down to about 90% preparation, 10% the finishing. If you do not prep the wood right, any moisture, mold, etc in the wood will destroy whatever you put over it.

High-build finishes like paint and epoxies and, from reading the Rustoleum flyer on this new product that too, work by trying to make an impenetrable surface and depend on a very good bond with the surface, AND no water getting under them. Because they are thick and are designed to provide a waterproof surface, unfortunately where water gets under them they are just as good or better at keeping it from evaporating, so you get fungal growth, blistering, and peeling.

Unfortunately, on deck and most outdoor applications except siding the surface will get nicked, scratched and otherwise develop leaks in short order. Water will therefore get into the underlying wood, and because it entered through small cracks and scratches, does not have any airflow to make it evaporate, so it sits there and breaks the finish bond to the wood (causing peeling and blisters), and promotes decay. That is why new deck boards and siding and trim that have been heavily or multi-coat painted on all 4 sides, thinking that will give the best protection, only last a few years versus the usual 10-20 years or so for boards that are painted top and sides only.

The full sun and hot conditions will, of course, cause more thann normal heating of dark colored painted decking. I had one instance where I was doing an independent appraisal of a very large commercial deck at a government facility, and in 85-90 degree daytime temps, in the sushine the chocolate brown deck surface temp was 150 degrees, and the paint was softening so much it stuck to the bottom of your shoes a couple of months after application.

As Jim said, the studies pretty clearly show that a breathable penetrating stain gives the best life, after plain ACA/CCA (copper chromium variations - the green stuff) treated wood. Penetrating stains, properly applied, do NOT seal in the moisture, they inhibit its entry and (when dark colored) help protect against sun damage to the wood and finish, but still breathe enough to let moisture escape on dry days. For my money, I will only use petroleum distillate (paint thinner cleanup) products, as they penetrate into the wood much better. Water based ones immediately start swelling the wood pores, so it blocks further penetration of the stain, which while cleanup is a bit easier, totally defeats the purpose of a PENETRATING stain or sealer.

I would recommend against any sort of waterproofing sealer, as they trap the water just like paint, and I have never seen one that is effective for 2 years.

My personal preference, though it limits the architectural coloration possibilities, is ground-contact rated copper compound treated wood (NOT the Wolmanized brown product), which comes green initially but can be retreated with either green or brown solution or can be liquid colorized darker (though not easily to a specific tone) using either of those as a base. My practice is to redo the treatment before installation to ensure thorough treatment, as from the mill it commonly has skips where boards contacted each other or where stacking seperators laid on it, and the ends are commonly very poorly done. This is done after cutting to length, as cut ends have to be retreated anyway.  A simple short deck cleaner soak followed by a light pressure washing and brush or roller re-treating of ONLY the TOP surface every 10 years or so has, for me, reduced visible weathering of the boards and beams to negligible.

As stated by others: You get what you pay for.  Many contractors no longer use employees.  The cost/benefit ratio is gone by the time worker's comp. insurance, unemplyment and other taxes are paid.  Especially with the high turnover in our industry.  Many, myself included, have our guys set up as sub-contractors.  That means even if the job is only for a day the duties have been outlined and a set pay to complete those duties has been established from the onset.  It's a better way to manage costs once I got used to it.  Also, it means I can operate cheaper and not have to charge as much to the customer.  My agreements with my guys, which they sign, make it clear that I nor the homeowner are responsible for their safety and medical care should a problem arise and that all parties are relieved of any such obligation.  If you hire a contractor who follows this growing practice ask to see a copy of his sub-contractor agreement.

That being said, a legitimate contractor still has operating cost which vary by area and how they run their business.  I break even at $150/day not including labor and materials so I've got to charge more than that to make money.  To keep the math simple, if I'm paying $250 for a pne day job in labor plus another $300 in materials and $150 operating costs I've got to charge $700 to the customer to break even.  That's if I'm only doing one job a day which is why most of us manage several at a time.  The point I'm trying to make is that someone with the necessary knowledge and experience to build you a safe deck is not going to be cheap.  Knowledge accompanies success which costs money.

I've repaired or restructured several decks built by handymen who should find another profession.  Ask yourself this question when hiring someone for this project: Would I trust this person to build my house?  If the answer is no you need to find someone else.  The deck is just as important.  It's where your family, friends, kids are going to gather and interact.  If it isn't structurally sound it can collapse causing injury or even death.  One last word on decks: Always screw a deck together, don't nail it.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
San Antonio, TX

Assuming you buy the right size door to fit the rough opening, and that your old door is not a size that is no longer made, and that you get the correct depth and transition adapters and sills and flashing and trim and seals and such, and that you transport it home without distorting and damaging it, then removal and disposal of old one and install new one probably about $250-400 depending on how well it fits, number of transition and similar pieces that have to be assembled (from 1 or 2 for some doors to as many as 30 on others).

The laundry list of things at the start WAS intended to intimidate you - I would say not 1 in 25 homeowners who buy a new patio door have bought it the right size for the rough opening and have everything needed to install it - the contractor almost invariably has to go get materials or parts to complete the installation - sometimes waiting weeks for factory adapters that are needed or missing parts AFTER the original door has already been taken out.

I would question why you are going to probably spend as much installing a door that may not do the job for you as the cost of the door. I would hazard at least half of people who go buy a $250-400 cheap door at a box store are sorely disappointed within months - due to poorly fitted parts, bad or non-existent seals causing drafts or water leaks, fogging or breaking glass, etc.

I would recommend you assess your needs, in conjunction with your installer find a decent and reputable brand unit to fit that need and that fits the loction right, and probably pay 50% more installed but have something that you might actually be happy with. Oh - BTW - your best installers generally will not install the cheapest box store units because they do not want the callbacks, so many times the quality of the installer who will actually do the job for you at a price you are willing to pay gives you a job that is - you guessed it, worth what you paid for it.


The product has evolved considerably since the lawsuit.


I would still do your own research and give you contractor your feedback.  At the end of the day, the cost for whatever board you want will be similar. 

Deck Builders in Ellwood City, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


P.O. Box 156 Columnbiana rd

A/D Fence & Deck, LLC

11441 Stratton Rd

Ackworth Construction

2237 Watson Marshall Rd


214-D Churchill Hubbard Road

Bryan Whiting Rolloffs

1215 W State St
New Castle

Burnette Construction & Restoration

180 Big Run Creek Rd
New Castle

Champion Windows of Akron

1163 B Holiday Dr

Dave's Decks

3092 Straley Ln

Don Joy

7522 Lisbon Rd

Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

First General Services of Western PA.

712 Spearman Ave.

G and S construction

3331 Evergreen Rd

Get It Done Contracting

224 East Winter Avenue
New Castle

J&M General Contracting

3426 Cindy Dr
New Castle

J.C. Allen Contracting

180 Harbor Village Drive

JC3 Builders

256 N Colonial Dr

jeff's home remodeling

1176 Struthers COITSVILLE Road


Ellwood City

John Paul Joseph Contracting, LLC

2107 Trace Street

Johnston Construction Services LLC

801 Country Manor Drive

JR Capital Group, LLC

3510 tod ave nw

K&L Construction and Design

6092 Corey Hunt rd

Kahl Construction

1976 Rombold Rd.

LJM Construction Co

1953 S Turner Rd

M&T Allison Construction, Inc

652 E Washington St
New Castle

Magnolia Outdoor Living

3522 Ashford-Dunwoody Rd.



Master Design Builders, LLC.

7127 Mill Creek Blvd.

Mobile Wash

PO Box 166

Monarch Construction Inc.

2705 Morning Star Ct

Morocco Service, Inc

3008 Woodfield Ave

Muir Masonry

189 Hadley Rd.




529 Front St

Nugent Landscaping

64 Sharon Road

Ohio Basement Systems

8295 Darrow Rd

One Day Garages

5690 West Liberty Street

Pat Skripac Construction

165 Struthers Coitsville Rd

Penn Valley Handyman Services

645 N Keel Ridge Rd

Peterson's Tree and Leaf Services

3236 Frew Mill Road
New Castle

Premier Custom Builders

114 E Oakwood Way
New Castle

Property Management Group

113 East Sixth Street

R&J Service

30 pine tree lane

R.E.S. Construction

P.O. Box 1145

Reed Shaffer Construction

704 Gardner Ctr Rd
New Castle

Scott Martin Construction LLC

9502 Trinity Church Road

Seeger Construction

108 Vista Ln
Ellwood City

Smoothstone Construction

159 South Lakeview

The Third Estimate Corp

1691 Georgetown Rd

Valley Brook Services

1886 Union Valley Road



Wayside Lawn Structures

1112 State Route 14

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