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A
"I called
because my unfinished basement/crawlspace had been running high humidity and I was frequently noticing some water condensation." He came out and gave a thorough inspection of my crawlspace as well as the surrounding outdoor areas. He highlighted some things that the previous owners could have done better but ultimately were functional. He gave me a few items I could easily do myself and told me to call him if those didn't help my situation. I implemented
's suggestions and the humidity in my crawlspace has been reduced by about 10-15%, to the point where my dehumidifiers are no longer constantly running and driving up my electricity bill. There were several different options that
could have implemented that would have costed me money, so I appreciate that he gave me some
fixes before we did any kind of big ticket items. I would use this company again in the future if I need to.

-Evan B.

A
"The crew arrived promptly on the scheduled date and located the sewer line using electronic locating equipment. The crew excavated a twelve-foot deep hole where" the locating equipment said the pipe was only to find that the pipe was actually two feet from the excavation. Because of the narrowness of the street, the crew had to refill the hole and come back the following Tuesday to dig a new hole and perform the replacement. Despite this difficulty, the crew remained very professional and took the problem in stride. They left the job site neat and clean both days. The work required the removal and replacement of a section of exposed aggregate concrete. The replacement patch matches the original beautifully.

-Robert R.

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Local Articles in Mcminnville

Why Dig? Trenchless Sewer Line Replacement Bypasses the Backhoe

Pipe lining and bursting replacement techniques offer alternatives to sewer line excavation.

Household Sewer Drains

Find solutions to various household sewer problems including drain pipe replacement, using chemical drain cleaners and how to fix a clogged drain.

If connecting to city sewers requires special equipment, like the sewage pump shown here, costs can quickly increase (Photo by Brandon Smith)
Excavating, Drain Pipe Installation - Exterior

Wet basements, crawlspaces or overly-saturated lawns could require the expertise of an exterior drain pipe installation and excavation expert.

Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Mcminnville

A

Rating
The lead guy came out and looked at the site and designed a solution to take care of our drainage problems which could have potentially resulted in foundation problems. We received a map and outline of the services and an estimate. It was a two-day project and the crew arrived on time and worked like trojans. There was a lot of digging. Trenches were dug to carry the water away from the backyard into the street. We also had gutters installed around the garage that fed into the underground drains and surface drains to catch water as well. Attention was paid to detail and environmentally friendly design. They laid crushed granite around the perimeter of the garage.
- Deborah H.
A

Rating
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very responsive. Every time I called he would either answer or return the call within a few hours. He showed up on time (on a Saturday afternoon) to provide an estimate. He was knowledgeable and wrote up an estimate on the spot. He was very upfront with us from the start that his schedule was full for about a month due to all the rain we had earlier this summer. We wanted to proceed so he put us on the calendar for approximately a month out and he ended up coming to do the work a few days early. He and his crew worked very efficiently and did a great job. Our side yard is no longer a swamp and we are happy with the work.
- Kinnery C.
A

Rating
Wow! Could not be easier!
From easy online scheduling, reminders of upcoming service date, technicians arriving on time as scheduled, then complete and very competent work and clean up better than I would do.
This is one excellent plumbing contractor.
- Dennis C.
A

Rating
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was punctual coming to the house to review the work scope and make a bid. He offered good solutions to the drainage problem and seemed very open and reasonable to work with. However, it was necessary to demolish an existing deck to regrade the yard and since
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
did not do deck construction I would need to set up a separate contract with a carpenter for the replacement deck. Although two separate contracts probably was a less expensive option, I was not in a position to manage two contractors so I went with a contractor who could do the entire job.
- John E.
N

Rating
First, I had some very large and very old junipers on the front and sides that were very hard to maintain due to their size and proximity to the house. I had them taken out to install something that is easier to maintain and essentially looks nicer. I then had a design that I received from another organization that I needed to hire a landscaper for. I already had a quote from another landscaper then had
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
from
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
Landscaping give me another quote. What I appreciated from
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was that he pointed out the issues with using the design and some issues that the other landscaper wanted me to do. He treated my house in terms of how he would do as if it were his house and his reasons made a lot of sense (I also did some research to confirm but he was right).

During the job he gave directions on how to take care of the plants and gave me some options on what would look nice and what wouldn't. so we moved and changed things around based on what we discovered during the job with no problems or issues without nickel and diming the statement of work.
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
did accidentally break my subpump pipe but owned up to the mistake and said he would fix it no charge since it was his fault, truly appreciated the accountability.
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
took progress pictures while I was working to make sure everything looked good and going according to plan. The job took about 7 business days as
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
did the entire job on his own! Which is great because any problems or issues I can ask him directly. I rather have it done slowly and done right then fast with problems.

Payment was easy he has an electronic payment system and quotes and statements were electronic as well (landscapers should be green shouldn't they?) He gave me some additional tips on my pear tree and if i need any help just contact him and he will fix it. Again I appreciate the "partnership" experience I would highly recommend working with
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
in the future as well as recommend to others. Truthfully if I do not even know your name and you were at my house for a week chances are I probably can't use you again nor can i recommend someone a name I can't remember which happens all too frequently in the contractor world.
- Davie P.
A

Rating
These guys were amazing. We have an older (1929) Seattle house where the concrete sewer pipes have been failing. we've repaired them in sections. The last section of about 55' started leaking into the basement. What a mess.
I contacted someone from the List who told me to get a camera inspection of the side sewer before they would even come out. We hired a rooter service they recommended to camera the line ($250), who told us there were no leaks in the line. So we were back to square one, trying to figure out why water leaked into our basement floor when using the shower in the main floor bathroom. We ripped out some drywall and traced all of the lines, couldn't find a leak. After we eliminated all possible other explanations, I concluded that it really was the sewer line that must be leaking through cracks in the foundation.
So I started calling companies from the LIst to get bids. Not a single one called me back (including three calls to the initial guy I contacted)! We had even dug an access hole in our back yard where the sewer line connects to the house in the hope that the leak was there and it would be a cheaper fix. No call backs, and in the meantime we had this mess in our basement. We're now about 4 weeks into trying to solve this problem.
So I looked online and found sewertechs.com. I called on a Sunday expecting to leave a message, but JB (the Field Ops supervisor) answered the call. He agreed to come out the next morning at 9 am to look at it. He and his tech scoped the line using their own scopes at no charge - eveyone else charges around $250 for this. While there were no visible leaks, he was able to see that the pipes were very thin and likely leaking.
Another thing he talked about was their robotic line cutter. Our downspout pipes are attached to our side sewer, and most companies have to dig out each downspout (which are 5-10' below grade) in order to reconnect them once the side sewer is relined. They have a robotic cutter which eliminates the mess/damage to plants and some of the expense of digging out each drain/downspout that feeds into the side sewer (you do pay for the robotic cutter but less than the cost of them digging a 7' hole).
They were tied up for several weeks on a big job at a
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
base, but they carved a day out of their schedule the following Monday because we had an active leak. Three guys showed up early and finished in the evening. They relined the side sewer, put in new connections to two of our downspouts, and created a new clean out. They were very courteous and professional.
Trenchless pipe repair is absolutely the best way to solve this difficult problem of side sewer leaks, and these guys do it all day long. I've discovered that plumbers contract with professionals like
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
because the technology is expensive and requires specific tools and expertise. So why hire a middle man? I wanted this fixed for good - so I only wanted to hire a company that does it as their primary business. I was lucky to find these guys. They work primarily for contractors (many municipalities require new sewer lining for major house
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
) and larger scale jobs, and they know what they're doing. They're a great additional to Angie's List.

- Carol M.
A

Rating
They added a cleanout in two places to facilitate keeping the drains clear of leaves, etc. Very well engineered and the work was performed in the time frame promised.
- David L.
A

Rating
The project went great from start to finish. If you are seeking any drainage or crawlspace work, you don't need to look any further. All the other Angie's list comments attesting to their fine work is true. You won't find anyone better. They are very knowledgeable, prompt, very conscientious, they cleaned up daily, etc.
Mcminnville Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
went above and beyond the work required and helped me out with a few things. He did not charge me for two additional vent wells that were needed. Also, he was going to pick up decorative rock in Nashville and while he was there he got me some and spread it for me as well. This company goes above and beyond the call of duty, and I couldn't recommend them more highly. Use them and you will be glad you did!
- Connie S.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Mcminnville, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Adams General Construction

410 NE 3rd St
Mcminnville

Advanced Plumbing LLC

PO Box 593
Portland

All Around Maintenance Inc

3439 NE Sandy Blvd
Portland

All Generations LLC

PO Box 2342
Gladstone

All Services Construction

535 E Main St
Yamhill

All Things Aquatic

1002 N Springbrook Rd Ste A
Newberg

AMA Construction Group

2272 SE Brookwood Ave
Hillsboro

Aqua Star Plumbing

13504 NE 84th St., Ste. 103-282

ARRIETA'S CONCRETE INC

PO BOX 2530
Oregon City

Ask A Contractor

PO Box 143
Mcminnville

Bateman Construction

4991 SW Nevada Ct
Portland

BEST BUY LANDSCAPE & IRRGTN

2906 SE ANDERSON RD
Gresham

BG Construction

20817 NE 87th Ave

Big Boy Waterfalls & Koi Ponds

2292 Southwest 199th Ct.
Beaverton

Blue Lake Construction, LLC

9020 SW Washington Square Road
Portland

Bluestone & Hockley Maintenance

9320 SW Barbur Blvd.
Portland

Breunig Construction Inc.

14360 SE Haze Ct.
Portland

Brick By Brick Waterproofing

10460 SE 352 Ave
Boring

C&E EXCAVATING & MICROBORING CO

45090 SW KNIGHT RD
Gaston

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Classic Garden Creations Inc

1735 SW Stringtown Rd
Forest Grove

Clog Busters LLC

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd
Hillsboro

CNW CONSTRUCTION INC.

15140 SE 82nd Dr.
Clackamas

COASTWIDE CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 891
Pacific City

Columbia Drain Co

po box 65668

Complete Lawn Care

15594 SW Donna Ct
Beaverton

CRESTWELL CONSTRUCTION

23302 S ENGSTROM RD P.O.Box 517
Colton

Croach Services

12919 NE 126th PL

DENNIS' SEVEN DEES LANDSCAPING

7355 SE JOHNSON CREEK BLVD
Portland

DLH PLUMBING

255 Count Fleet Rd

DODSON CONSTRUCTION LLC

2026 SE BEAVER CREEK LN
Troutdale

DOWN TO EARTH IRRIGATION LLC

19300 MOLALLA AVE. #2758
Oregon City

DRAIN AWAY ROOTER

PO BOX 446
Gladstone

DUKE CONSTRUCTION & EXCAVATION

17860 SE FOSTER RD
Damascus

Elite Plumbing Incorporated

6023 SE Nehalem St
Portland

Elk Country Plumbing and Heating L.L.C.

6125 SE Mitchell St.
Portland

Encompass Construction & Maintenance Services

16076 S Harding Rd
Oregon City

Environmental Works LLC

2634 SE Steele St
Portland

Expeditious Earthscapes, Inc.

19450 se Hittay tr. drive
Damascus

Exstream Landscaping

11030 SE 92nd Ct
Happy Valley

Faison Energy Solutions LLC

1827 NE 44th Ave
Portland

FERRANTE BROTHERS LANDSCAPING

4041 NE Freemont
Portland

Fine Stone Design

12663 Southwest Canvasback Way
Beaverton

Forest Landscape Inc

3975 NW Susbauer Rd
Cornelius

Fresh Coat of Portland

6808 SE 74th Ave
Portland

Fullman Service

2000 SE Hanna Harvester Dr
Portland

G SQUARED BUILDING

6531 SE Austin Dr
Hillsboro

Goddard Gardens Landscaping LLC

1322 SE 28th Ave
Hillsboro

GOODMAN SANITATION INC

931 NE HARLOW PL
Troutdale

Greenpoint Landscaping Inc

2219 Thorne St
Newberg

GreenPointe Design & Construction Inc

16313 Oaktree Ter
Oregon City

GruntWorks

8630 SW Scholls Ferry Rd
Beaverton

GTM Construction Inc

17735 Mardee Ave
Lake Oswego

Halgren Construction

23629 SW Ladd Hill Rd
Sherwood

Heaton Nursery

3829 Pleasant Hill Rd

His Builders LLC

PO Box 967
Boring

Hollenbach & Hurd Incorporated

5291 NE Elam Young Pkwy.
Hillsboro

Interstate Pest Management

5320 SW Macadam Avenue, Suite 100
Portland

Jet Heating

1935 Silverton Rd NE
Salem

John Darby Landscape, Inc.

PO Box 231117
Tigard

John's Waterproofing

201 Airport Rd
Silverton

Joseph Ketner Construction

22707 SE Firwood Rd
Sandy

JP Stone Contractors, Inc.

8002 NE HWY 99 STE B, PMB 623

JSI LANDSCAPES

PO BOX 1372
Tualatin

K Witt Excavating, LLC

32050 Viewcrest Drive
Warren

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Leggett Asphalt

Box 3526
Tualatin

LOVETT Inc

PO Box 86280
Portland

Lucky Drain

Beaverton

M P Plumbing Co

15330 SE 82nd Dr
Clackamas

Masterworks Plumbing

PO Box 16821
Portland

Maximum Construction

18410 S Green View Dr
Oregon City

Meyer Construction

2241 B St
Forest Grove

Michael Todd Boehme Concrete

44900 Coalman Rd
Sandy

MoldEaters

2210 W Main St

NW Home Services LLC

6941 SE BIXEL WAY
Milwaukie

NW Renovations

PO Box 186
Sherwood

PARKER CONCRETE

2850 TAYLOR WAY
Forest Grove

PGC LLC

P O Box 220179
Portland

PRO-BILT INC

6135 SW 150TH AVE
Beaverton

Ram Jack West

PO Box 11701
Eugene

RAMOS CLEAN UP

6597 SW 192ND AVE
Beaverton

Repipe 1

15791 Rockfield Blvd

Rexius

1275 Bailey Hill Rd
Eugene

Rich's Repair All

17611 NE 188th Ct

Roto-Rooter Group Inc - Wilsonville

25599 SW 95th Ave
Wilsonville

RR Custom

14308 NE Powers St.

RSD Construction

4275 SE Russell St
Hillsboro

RUPP FAMILY CONSTRUCTION , INC

29030 SW Town Center Loop E
Wilsonville

RYCHART EXCAVATION INC

2790 SE 73RD AVE
Hillsboro

Sanitech LLC

PO Box 47
Molalla

Sarkinen Plumbing

9502 NE 72nd Ave

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,

Service Plumber Hillsboro

160 SE Washington St
Hillsboro

Sewer Sleuths

19068 Wallingford Ave
Sandy

SHAWNZ' PLUMBING LLC

15051 SE Bluff Rd
Sandy

SOIL SOLUTIONS

3540 SE 28TH AVE
Portland

Sunrise Landscape Services Inc.

26085 SW Chehalem Station Rd.
Sherwood

TC Excavating LLC

PO Box 2471
Estacada

TED RIEHL EXCAVATING & INC

15858 S REDLAND RD
Oregon City

TerraFirma Foundation Systems

761 NE Garden Valley Blvd.
Roseburg

Terry Rinkes Tractor Work

PO Box 546
Beavercreek

The Excavators LLC

21975 SW Riggs Rd
Beaverton

THE PHOENIX GARDEN PROJECT

3960 SE LINCOLN ST
Portland

The Plumbers Inc

8900 SW Burnham St
Portland

The SHIR Corporation

9411 NE HWY 99 Ste. 1

The Wall

11120 NE Marx St
Portland

Tight Access Excavating LLC

6400 SE 101 Ave
Portland

Tom Hoffman Construction

3825 SW 90th Ave
Portland

Tri County Construction

1363 SW Borland Rd
West Linn

Tualatin Valley Concrete

8950 SW Locust St
Portland

Underground Solutions LLC

33541 Watson Rd
Scappoose

West Side Drain

PO Box 1050
Gaston

WINTERBLOOM INC

14780 SW 98TH AVE
Portland

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