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Local Articles in Kinston
Are you tired of having to get out of your car to manually raise and lower your garage door?
When was the last time you gave the working parts of your garage door a once-over?
Here's the video I used - I found it pretty helpful:
Garage door spring replacements cost me less than $100 by doing it myself and only took me about 25 minutes. As far as I know, changing out the garage door springs will solve most issues. I found at kit online at a place called garage door nation and just bought that one since they seemed the most legit and included all the extras.
I am usually not good with these types of things. I saved almost $500 by doing it myself.
Hope this helps!
The important thing to look at with the doors you are considering is the Gauge of the door (the thickness of the metal) and the grade of the hardware being used. there are nominal Gauge doors and true Gauge doors, A 25G (G = Gauge) Door is acutually .025 of an inch thick, a nominal 25G door is actually 26G or 27G (thinner) but reinforced to act like a True 25G. A nominal Door is generally weaker and still prone to dents and damage eiser that a true thicker door.
The Hardware is very important, Are you going to get rollers with bearings and a nylon cap (quiet,long life), or a roller that is a plastic wheel on a metal shaft (no Bearings), or a metal wheel (noisy over time).
are you going to get the full body 14g Hinge (strongest and most supportive), or the medium body 16g-18g Hinge (narrower, thinner, not as supportive).
The last thing to consider is the Torsion Spring, from th price you mentioned I am guessing you are gettting custom doors , It is important that the springs you get are meant to last a while ask the companies what cycle spring they are going to provide? the one with the higher cycle life is definatly going to save you money in the future.
Based on experience and actualling working with both companies it is my personal opinion that Raynor provides better products and parts up front with out having to pay more but companies are different everywhere I always recommend asking about these things.
I hope this helped, please feel free to contact us if you have any questions.
Assuming you are talking rollup garage door - issues similar but not as many parts on a tilt-up door.
Many rollup doors in residential use go 30 years or more on original springs.
Generally, they do not need to be replaced till they break. A broken one should be pretty obvious - the door will open very hard because it is being pulled up more at one side than the other, if at all, and one spring will be wound tight while the other will be looser, and usually the break is a visibly obvious one - either a visible break in the main portion of the spring, or the free end that goes into the end plate is broken off. Compare the springs against each other to see they look the same.
Also, if you think a spring is broken but can't see anything wrong, maybe the set screws that hold the end plates tight onthe axle have vibrated loose, relaxing the tension on the spring.
As the door gets older you may need to have a garage door repairman adjust the spring tension tighter if the door starts opening hard or balking at opening, though that is more often a problem with dirty slider track and bearings from dust accumulation, which you can clean with WD40 and then lubricate the side support rollers with motor oil or household oilcan. On lubrication of the slider track there are differences of opinion - some say clean with a non-oily solvent like brake cleaner and leave it clean and ddry so dust does not stick to it, other say oil with a light household oil or WD40. I prefer the latter so the plastic slider does not get worn out sliding on the metal slider track or pole, though it definitely does accumulate an oily dust grunge. The cleaning and lubricating should be done at least yearly - every 3-6 months if you use the door multiple times a day, more often if you are in a real dusty area like the Dust Bowl, the desert, or close to the beach.
I think he is trying to upsell you on something you don't need, or their company policy is neer fix, always replace - some companies are in that mode not, to prevent future call-backs when it does not work.
IF only needs screws, sounds like a good do it yourself job with self-tapping sheet metal screws. Or a Handyman could do for maybe $50-70 if that is all that is needed.
If the weatherstrip is damaged and in on the front edge of the garage door, one other possibility - replace with one like this, or screw a bottom compression type rubber weatherstrip on the bottom of the door - actually work a lot better than the face-mounted ones anyway, in my opinion. Look like this from M-D Building Products and Frost King among others. Can also be used nailed to frame to flap contacts door face as an edge and top weatherstrip -
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