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Insulation Contractors to Avoid

178

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Over 14,298 reviews for
Durham Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

A
"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

B
"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Durham

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can push your energy bills through the roof. Learn how installing roof vents can cool your attic space and prevent severe damage.

Professional insulation installer

Insulating plaster walls can be a good idea, but you'll want professional help.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Durham

A

Rating
We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.
N

Rating
They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.
- JOEY J.
A

Rating
came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.
A

Rating
is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.
A

Rating
First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.
A

Rating
The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.
A

Rating
came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.
A

Rating
's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Durham, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2-brother renovation

220 dogwood st
Cary

3G construction

1658 whites kennel rd
Burlington

4-Adrywall solutions LLC

71-B Bell circle
Chapel Hill

7 Star General Contracting LLC

4805 Christian Chapel Church Rd
New Hill

A & E Heating & Air Conditioning

505 Cornerstone Ct Ste B
Hillsborough

Affordable Home Improvement

10301 Falls Mill Dr
Raleigh

ALLPRO INSULATION

PO Box 395
Youngsville

American Craftsmen of NC

1921 N Pointe Dr
Durham

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

ARS / Rescue Rooter Raleigh

517 Pylon Dr
Raleigh

Art Builders

1239 Wicker Drive
Raleigh

B&T HVAC Services Inc

992 Horton Pond Rd
Apex

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St
Raleigh

Beasley's Heating & Air, Inc.

57 W.C. Beasley Lane
Coats

Best Skill, LLC

4512 Fawn Glen Dr
Raleigh

Bill's Hire-A-Hubby

4220 Old Graham Rd
Pittsboro

Bragg Premier Home Improvements

65 Edgemont Ave
Roxboro

Bud Matthews Service & Building Co Inc

545 Old Farrington Rd
Chapel Hill

BuildSense

502 Rigsbee Ave
Durham

Bullock's Home Enhancement

3500 US Hwy 64 W
Apex

C & S CONTRACTING INC

4605 TREADSTONE CT
Raleigh

Cape Fear Remodeling

223 Donnibrook Run
Fuqauy Varina

Carolina Climate Control

347 Riverstone Dr
Clayton

Carolina Fix-It, Inc.

303 Rose Court
Benson

Carolina Green Solutions LLC

3333 Durham Chapel Hill Blvd
Durham

Carolina Restoration Services

8160 Chapel Hill Rd
Cary

Carolina Weatherization

4824 Watkins Rd.
Raleigh

CARPENTRY REPAIR ETC

5401 HIDEAWAY DR
Chapel Hill

Carway Interiors & Exteriors Home Repairs

7828 Buckhorn Rd
Hillsborough

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

Choice Home Improvements, Inc.

104 Oakland Ave.
Drexel

Cole Restoration Services

81 River Forest Drive
Pittsboro

Cole Roofing & Construction

3901 University Dr
Durham

Connery-Jezierski Inc

3820 Old Hwy 86
Hillsborough

Core Home Solutions, Inc.

510 Meadowmont Village Circle
Chapel Hill

Core Remodeling Group Inc

1109 Classic Rd
Apex

CORNERSTONE CONSTRUCTION

5011 DEPARTURE DR
Raleigh

CORNERSTONE RESIDENTIAL BLDRS

5405 BLUEBELL CT
Holly Springs

Covenant Roofing and Construction Inc

3200 Gresham Lake Rd
Raleigh

Craftsmen Builders

813 Prince St
Cary

Crawlspace Doctor

32 Arrowwood Ct.
Durham

CRITTER CONTROL

4225 BENNETT MEMORIAL RD
Durham

DC Handy Men

709 Carver St.
Durham

Decocorp Construction

9950 S Ocean Dr Apt 301

DHT ENTERPRISES OF DURHAM

618 N Mineral Springs Rd
Durham

Doug Woods Construction, LLC

3064 Rosewood Dr.
Durham

Dunrite Home Maintenance

3674 Manns Chapel Rd.
Chapel Hill

DURHAM INSULATION INC

133 BRENROSE CIR
Durham

Eagle eye enterprises

601Boling St
Clayton

EAS Professional Painting

5213-107 Wynslow Park Drive
Raleigh

EASTERN INSULATION CO

PO Box 15400
Durham

EATMANS CARPETS & INTERIORS

8101 GLENWOOD AVE
Raleigh

ECO IRRIGATION INC

6300 Limousine Drive
Raleigh

EcoMaster LLC

2921 Glade Aster Ct.
Raleigh

Energeyes

107 Fawn Drive
Wake Forest

Energy Pros of NC

12335 Wake Union Church Rd
Wake Forest

EV MULTIPLE CONSTRUCTION,INC

1120 Delano St
Durham

Excella Roofing

112 Thistle Dr
Youngsville

Express Concrete LLC

4413 Cardinal Grove Blvd
Raleigh

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr
Charlotte

Fan Man Inc Raleigh

1513 Ramson Ct
Raleigh

Fresh Air

Raleigh

global restoration

2113 Sandy Plains Rd
Wake Forest

GOG UNLIMITED,LLC

PO BOX 11164
Durham

Gonzalez Painters & Contractors LLC

4301 Bennett Memorial Rd
Durham

Grade-A-Structures

5808 old nc 10
Durham

GREEN HOME SYSTEMS

20 Blackberry Cove

Green Horizon

4620 Industry Lane Suite C
Durham

Green Planet Energy Solutions

9101 Southern Pine Blvd Ste 320
Charlotte

GreenTech,LLC

2500 Walnut St
Cary

Gsenfas LLC

206 Eagle Tavern dr
Garner

H. Elliott Construction

1605 Twin Lake Dr.
Holly Springs

H.R.S

P.O Box 1203
Durham

HAMMERLINKS INTERNATIONAL LLC

PO BOX 373
Morrisville

Handyman Advantage

PO Box 80505
Raleigh

Handymanley

5705 lake elton rd
Durham

Healthy Home Diagnostics

5420 Old Poole Rd
Raleigh

Healthy Home Restoration

6808 Branton Dr
Cary

Hills Lawn & Auto Care

Pope Rd
Creedmoor

Hohl's Renovations LLC

6316 Willowdell Dr
Wake Forest

Home Crafter Inc

103 Continental Dr
Durham

HOME DEPOT

4901 CAPITAL BLVD
Raleigh

Home Depot

9517 Strickland Rd
Raleigh

HOME DEPOT'S HOME SERVICES

920 BLAIRHILL RD
Charlotte

Home Logic Handyman Services LLC

300 Oleander Road
Carrboro

Home Performance NC

4608 Industry Ln
Durham

HomeGrown Landscapes

804 Lancaster st.
Durham

HORIZON CONTRACTING

6321 TAYLOR RD
Wendell

HUTCH HOME SOLUTIONS

2708 Exchange Dr, Unit A
Wilmington

Inline Restoration

2228 Page Road
Durham

INSULATION CONTRACTING SVC

1435 CAMDEN AVE
Durham

Integrity Roofing and Construction

6310 Terra Verde Dr
Raleigh

J&J Construction Association

5734 Severn Grove Dr.
Durham

J&R Home Improvement and More

1421 E Broad Street Suite 241
Fuquay Varina

J&S Cleaning and Repair

13200 Strickland Road
Raleigh

Jeff Pearson Home Repairs

104 N Bend Dr
Knightdale

Jenkins Restorations

7517 Precision Drive Suite 112
Raleigh

JOSEPH A BRADY

314 Bowen St
Franklinton

JOURDAN INSULATION

1001 S CHATHAM AVE
Siler City

Just Josh Odd Jobs and Designs

7509 Idolbrook Ln
Raleigh

Mac and Alina Painting, LLC

825 Brigham Road
Raleigh

Marmac Construction Inc.

1201 Miracle Drive,
Wake Forest

MC GHEE INSULATION INC

5412 CENTENNIAL DR
Durham

McNeely Pest Control

3831 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

Mhiworks

2304 brimwater dr
Raleigh

Modern Solutions

4922 Old Page Rd.
Durham

Molescapes

PO Box 17128
Raleigh

Mr. Handyman of Western Wake County

7404-C Chapel Hill Road
Raleigh

My Man Cleaners

200 Culvert St Apt A
Apex

NC Home Solutions

3926 Cumberland Rd
Fayetteville

Neely Custom Builders LLC

129 Meadows Cir
Knightdale

ONOFRIO CONSTRUCTION INC

8804 Gulf Courtt Ste I
Raleigh

PATIO ENCLOSURES INC OF RALEIGH

1030 MORRISVILLE PKWY
Morrisville

Peak Energy Inc

PO Box 1241
Holly Springs

Pinter Construction & Development

11709 Appaloosa Run E
Raleigh

Prime Energy Group

PO BOX 10156
Raleigh

Professional Renovation Services

1124 Sandel Lane
Raleigh

Progressive Home Solutions

1102 Stallings Road
Durham

ProTech Repair & Restoration

219-B Garner Business Ct.
Garner

R Harward Construction

PO Box 367
Hillsborough

RAC Construction

1108 Athens Drive
Raleigh

Raleigh Waterproofing Inc

2610 Rowland Rd
Raleigh

Ramos Waterproofing & Seal Crawlspace

101 Wesley Street
Carrboro

RAY'S HOME REPAIR

2001 BROOKS RD
Durham

Razon Contracting

2424 Lark St
Fuquay Varina

Regional Waterproofing Inc

PO Box 917
Zebulon

Remediation & Consulting Services

3004 Dunkirk Dr
Raleigh

Ridgeline Roofing

4116 Old Franklinton Rd
Franklinton

Romero Construction INC

910 E. Ellerbee st.
Durham

RoofCrafters

1082 Alton Alston Rd
Pittsboro

Roseman Enterprises, Inc (dba FASTHELP

135 Victoria Hills Drive
Fuquay Varina

Scott Riley Builders Inc

326 Roseland Ave
Durham

Scotts Customs, LLC

2695 Government Road
Clayton

Sealed Solution

2518 Saint Paul's Square
Raleigh

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2815 S Wilmington St
Raleigh

Sew Fine ll

5850 Fayetteville Rd
Durham

Shamrock Waterproofing

6021 Glenthorne Dr
Raleigh

Simpkins Construction Inc.

2517 Floyd Drive
Raleigh

Sivad Construction LLC

PO BOX 2291
Garner

Smallcuts Home Improvement

3615 Britt Street
Durham

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smith Exterminating Company

5507 Hillsborough St
Raleigh

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

SOUTHEASTERN SHELTER LLC

607 ELLIS RD
Durham

Southern Energy Management

101 Kitty Hawk Dr
Morrisville

Spray Foam Insulation of NC

1023 Denning Road
Benson

Stetten Realty Inc

3117 Kentish Town Ln
Raleigh

SUNRISE TILE & MARBLE INSTALLATIONS

PO BOX.1085
Holly Springs

Tar Heel Basement Systems

2910 Griffith Rd
Winston Salem

TEBCO Maintenance

PO Box 21
Wilson's Mills

The Crawl Space Cleaners

224 West Oak Way
Sanford

The Home Handyman

3032 Marywood Drive
Durham

The Kitchen & Bath Showroom

1289 N Fordham Blvd
Chapel Hill

The Mold Solutions Group

2800 Winningham Rd.
Chapel Hill

The Surrell Group: LLC

3222 Ode Turner Rd
Hillsborough

Total Construction by Dale Lands LLC

13376 US Hwy 70 Business West
Clayton

Totally Legit Construction

812 Riverview Road
Raleigh

Triangle Home Care

416 Cedarview Court
Raleigh

Triangle Home Solutions

1745 Laurel Park Pl
Cary

Triangle Reconstruction

1201 Alderwood ct
Apex

Triangle Renovations Inc

2069 Bowen Rd
Rougemont

triangle restoration

9302 ten ten road
Raleigh

Trutech Inc

155 Glen Valley Rd
Raleigh

US Structures Corp

2474-337 Walnut St.
Cary

VERIZON

1058 W CLUB BLVD
Durham

Vittro Glass

718 Cameorn Woods Dr
Apex

Vuncannon Contracting LLC

477 Avery Spence Rd
Fuquay Varina

VZ Competitive Painting And Restoration

7334 Chapel Hill Rd
Raleigh

W.M. Woodworking

1609 Tall Cane Circle
Willow Spring

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

Wood Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

1336 N Brightleaf Blvd
Smithfield

Woodwright Builders

1203 Bayview Ct
Franklinton

Woody's Renovations and Maintenance Inc.

136 White Oak Dr
Youngsville

Worker Bees Home Servies, Inc.

1421 E Broad Street, #241
Fuquay Varina

WP Cleaning Solutions, Inc.

2500 Dunmore Ct.
Wake Forest

WS Builders

1204 Village Market Pl
Morrisville

Your Service Professional

6033 Epping Forest Drive
Raleigh

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