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Muskegon Plumbers from people just like you.

"The service technician was very punctual and did a great job diagnosing my furnace. Although he did not offer to provide space heaters for the weekend, upon calling" the office to request heaters, I was provided with two. After doing research into the warranty on my unit it turned out that my furnace and the part that broke was covered under an enhanced parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer. The company was very misinformed as to what the warranty covered and refused to provide me service under the enhanced warranty even though their website claims they are a factory authorized dealer. Due to the company's ignorance and complete disregard for customer service or doing the right thing, I was obligated to write this review and inform other potential customers to beware.

-Michael P.

"Went great did not have heat in our child's room. came promptly and did some of the best work that I have ever seen (I work with contractors" daily). Attention to detail was most important.Mo, and did were some of the hardest workers and fast that I have seen, never sacrificing quality. A plus roofing and Spartan electric came in to assist and also didn't disappoint with the same quality as AA plumbing. You won't be disappointed.

-Andre B.

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Local Articles in Muskegon

Sink and plumbing

How to Avoid Common Plumbing Scams

Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Plumber working on toilet


When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

Few kitchen appliances get as much use as the garbage disposal. And over the years, common issues such as jamming and leaking can occur. However, a disposal not operating properly or maintained can break down and cause plumbing issues - leading to costly repairs.

Homeowners often take appliances for granted. If you don’t take proper care of them, they can end up malfunctioning at the worst possible times. If you have a special occasion you’ll be hosting, follow these tips to make sure your big event goes off without a hitch.

How to avoid the dreaded clogged kitchen sink by properly using and maintaining your garbage disposal.

water heater

Many of us take our home's plumbing for granted. Here's what you should know.

Inspiration & Ideas

remodeled bathroom with new tiles
granite countertop and backsplash
bathroom remodel with granite countertop and backsplash
bathroom remodel with double vessel sinks and garden tub
bathroom remodel with double vessel sinks
marble tiles in shower

Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Muskegon


Tech did not explain anything to me, instead just kept giving these huge quotes. I was supposed to replace toilet valves that were not even broken since the malfunctioning inlet valve-pvr may have damaged them- 4 toilets at $300.00 a pop-who has that kind of money?
I have had several plumbing stuff done through the years and this is my worst experience ...More simply getting a quote. It was a complete waste of my time and money. Will never use them again
- kadiyala R.

They were very responsive, punctual on the day of appointment and the tech did an excellent job. Willing to work with me unanticipated additional work. I would definitely use them again. Excellent experience!
- Daniel M.

It went well. He worked quietly and efficiently and did a great job. Price seemed kind of high but then it is always expensive to have work done for you.
- Scott B.

Not good. First of all he said that Angie's list was a crock and he did not want to use the deal that I had purchased. I purchased the $25.00 for $75.00 worth of work. He talked with his company and he did let me use it but he charge me $215.00. I paid the $25.00 he took off $75.00 . The total cost was $290.00. I think that was way to much just ...More to change out a kitchen faucet. I had to have him change the faucet because he put it on wrong with the on and off lever on the left side. He said whoever put it on was wrong but they were not and he did change it. Then he did not have it tighten down when he went out to write up the bill and the faucet was sideways and I had to ask him to fix it. Do not use this deal. Think he just thought he could get away with it since I am a widow. I am sure Router Rooter have better employees but this one was horrible. If you are in the Gastonia, NC area do NOT use this deal.
- Janice J.

I called Roto Rooter at 4:55pm, the 9th plumber in the area I tried. They were the first to actually answer the phone, and even better, they said they could have a plumber to my house within 2 hours. Even better, they called back in 5 minutes and said someone would be at my house within 30 minutes. Hard to beat that!
...More Green was the name of the plumber who actually came. He was fast, professional, polite, and knowledgeable. Fixed two problems in no time at all. Strongly recommend.
- Timothy E.

Great. Arrived within an hour of initial call and drove off within a 1/2 hr after arriving (with job completed).
- Ian E.

We called when we noticed sewage leaking into our basement on a Saturday in mid-August. Ended up scheduling a plumber to come the following week. While I admit our job was somewhat challenging-- there's no access point to our sewer line from our basement, so they had to go in via our catch basin to clear the line as a quick ...More fix. They cemented over a hole in our basement leading to the sewer where the leak was occurring. They said they'd get back to us with an estimate on a more comprehensive fix-- which included digging up our basement floor and adding an access point.
Months went by and we never heard from them. I called back in late October, and their office couldn't find any record of our job. Eventually, the office had the plumber who came to our house, who said he needed to come back with a camera to assess damage in the sewer line before he could give us an estimate. I was leaving on vacation, so I arranged for a friend to meet the plumber so they could camera in and provide an estimate. They showed up, looked around, and did not use camera or provide any written estimate.
After two visits with no estimate and no fix, I've given up on -- another plumber came out tonight and was able to assess the situation and provide an estimate on the spot, able to complete work by the end of this week. I'll take that over waiting another month and chasing down for a job they clearly must not want.
- Margaret S.

My niece had water standing beside the house and had called several plumber out to find and fix. They gave several quotes and guess too the problem. I was visiting and dug it up and found the problem. Called several plumber and all were booked up. Called 's at 5pm and the lady that answered was very pleasant. I asked ...More if it could be repaired tonight. She said wait a moment and very shortly came back that someone could be there between 5:30 and 6:30pm and I said that would be great. called a little before 5:30 that was running a little late. He was here before 6 and done before 7. He took a $100 off for having it already dug out. My niece was so please, she told she had other work to be do and other people in her office were needing plumbing work and ask for his cards to take to work. He was very knowledgeable and already had the parts needed on his van. He was very pleasant.
- Charles N.

Plumbers in Muskegon, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



A Cap Plumbing Services

2786 Holton Whitehall Rd
Twin Lake

A-Cook's Plumbing Heating & Cooling

4000 Alpine Ave. NW
Comstock Park


Kent City

Ace Heating & Cooling Co

1979 E Sherman Blvd



Advanced Plumbing Concepts, LLC

13470 152nd Avenue
Grand Haven

Bilz Plumbing & Mechanical

235 2nd St

Bradfield Home Improvement and Remodeling LLC

1107 South Griffin St
Grand Haven

Bulldog Sewer & Drain, LLC

8300 Ellis Rd

CKL Construction LLC

1501 Hidden Creek Cir Dr
Grand Rapids


4265 Lincoln Rd.

Clark Plumbing Inc.

3733 Dunecrest Dr.

Custom Upgrades, LLC.

747 44th St SW

D & J Sewer Cleaning

1012 Washington Ave

Diverse Contracting LLC

4486 Burgis Ave.

Doctor Rooter

908 Orchard Ave



DuraFinish Inc

3045 Broadway Ave SW


Twin Lake

Ferguson Counter

1577 Getty St


Grand Rapids


1588 Lori ln.
Grand Rapids


Twin Lake

H & H services LLC

10770 Edgerton Ave.

Janric Enterprises LLC

3859 Eastbrook Dr

Joe's Clean- Up Service LLC.

1621 richmond nw
Grand Rapids

Kentwood Plumbing & Heating Inc

3411 32nd St SE
Grand Rapids



Max Plumbing

4288 Clay Ave SW
Grand Rapids

Meticulous Builders

2430 Bayne Rd
Twin Lake

Midwest Heating & Cooling

1625 Walker NW
Grand Rapids

Modernistic Carpet Cleaning

821 Wakefield


7221 Davies Dr NE

Newmyer Plumbing LLC

3525 E Ellis Rd

Northside Plumbing

5415 Russell Rd
Twin Lake


5195 Marshall St


5995 12 Mile Rd NE

Odd Job Todd

2327 Greenview Drive SW

On Call Plumbers in Grand Rapids

2851 Charlevoix Drive SE
Grand Rapids


PO Box 557


50 W 3rd St

Prestige Home Improvement

429 West Mill Street

Professional Home Improvements Inc

3955 W River Dr NE
Comstock Park


2479 152nd Ave

Reliable Vendors

1438 Rathbone S.W.
Grand Rapids

Retired Master Plumber

7701 Jonagold Dr SE
Grand Rapids



Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

4393 Clay Avenue SW

Scheid Plumbing, Heating & Cooling Inc.

990 Industrial Park Drive

Scotts Plumbing Drain Rescue

10690 summit ave

Sheely Plumbing Inc.

8151 McCords Ave SE

Somerset Painting & Professional Improvements

647 S Spinningwheel Ln
Bloomfield Hills

Standale Interiors

4046 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids



TaylorMade Handyman Service

4432 16 Mile Rd. NE
Cedar Springs

Terver Services

611 franklin
Grand Rapids

Thompson Well Drilling

12300 Stultz

Total Interiors

491 Houston St


84 W ASH
Cedar Springs

Vander Hyde

1058 Scribner Ave NW
Grand Rapids

Wallside Windows Inc

27000 Trolley Industrial Dr

Whitney Electric & Plumbing

3120 Kenyon Ln

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