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A
"
and
were great -- very professional and explained what they were doing? all told! it was a big job and they completed it in a timely manner.

-Linda W.

A
"One company estimated a week before they could effect the repair to the main water line but
showed up about an hour after I contacted the" company, and provided me with an estimate of what needed to be done and cost to include how it would be repaired. Work started early the next day and continued all day until the repair was completed, except for the inspection needed by the city and covering up the line. All workers were professional and worked continuously all day in Texas hot weather. The timeliness of this repair was well appreciated due to the nature of the leak and
understood our concern and acted appropriately. The cost of the repair was in the range I expected it to be, especially since it was the main water line which ran under the driveway. All my questions, and I had many, were quickly answered throughout the process. I am recommending this company to my neighbors.

-Jon P.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Muskegon

A

Rating
Technician was professional and informative. He checked every fitting and explained why they are so interested in making sure that the job they did has been successful.
- James G.
B

Rating
The provider was very courteous and clean on the first visit when they diagnosed the AC problem and quoted the furnace/AC units. After selecting units and signing the contract for the new furnace and AC, the provider said that they had to put a sign in my front yard. I disagreed with the provider and said that the sign was not part of the contract. We haggled for a bit and came to the agreement that the provider would put the sign in my lawn and I would immediately removed it and put it in my garage until after the final service was complete and the provider would take the sign back.
The installation of the AC and furnace went smoothly. Again the installers were very courteous, punctual, and fast. During the installation, they cut some PVC pipe and didn't vacuum it up. I was disappointed that they made the effort to wear booties on their shoes, but couldn't pick up their trash.
Also, the installers removed the maintenance history sticker of the adjacent water heater and put their logo sticker on the water heater. At no time during the install or quote was the water heater even discussed. Now I have lost the maintenance history for my water heater. I feel that it was slightly arrogant of the provider to tag other equipment.
- Donnie B.
D

Rating
We called them about cleaning out a drain in a bath tub. Unlike my
previous calls, they told my wife that we had to pay for a technician to
come out and examine it. Really? It's a clogged drain. Very
disappointing.
- William L.
B

Rating
Scheduling was easy and painless. However I didn't much appreciate the 6-hour time window from 8AM to 2PM. It seem like if I'm not the first person on the schedule, 8AM shouldn't be under consideration. But maybe they have to reschedule so many appointments that a wide window makes sense. The plumber showed up closer to 1PM, after a 15 minute courtesy call prior to arrival.
The work was done well (at least so far it seems) and quickly. It probably only took the plumber 10 minutes to do the work. It probably just as long for him to write up the invoice.
The invoice was disappointing. It described the work that was performed, but it didn't itemize anything. I understand the service charge was ~$110 (because I didn't want to subscribe to the service plan which would have saved me the service charge). I think the parts required cost about $20. So I got charged $300+ for 20 minutes of labor?
I can't say that I won't use
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
plumbing again, but they're probably not going to be my first choice. And this little experience is probably going to color my decision when it comes time to renew my HVAC service contract.
- Rachel N.
A

Rating
They were extremely timely, because we were in an emergency situation, with company coming a few days later. Our frantic phone call for help was answered, and they were able to get to the problem that day. Since we had a few other plumbing problems that contributed to the disaster as well, they were available, and were very courteous, and helpful. Nick the Plumber has a great team. Nick,
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, Treven and
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
were professional, and very pleasant, answered our questions, and treated us with fairness, and respect. We have already recommended this company,
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
to our family, and to our neighbors.
- Dennis B.
A

Rating
Went very well.
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
I was professional and clearly an expert in his trade. He is also very customer service oriented. Hope he continues his employment with
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
for many more years! Great experience.
- Janine S.
A

Rating
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
installing my sprinkle system and my water heater with affordable price he is professional he did a fantastic job I all ways recomand Best plumber at all. Thank you
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
.
- Bereket J.
A

Rating
I called and made the appointment and told them about the 2 problems. We scheduled the visit for today. He came on time and he was just so pleasant! He got the job done in no time and now, all is well. He also suggested I contact my
Muskegon Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and get a replacement kit for my toilet because it's a rare corner toilet and finding parts may be difficult should I ever need them. I so appreciated that!
- Shirley G.

Plumbers in Muskegon, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

4 STAR BUILDERS, INC

3326 LENEDO
Muskegon

A-Cook's Plumbing Heating & Cooling

4000 Alpine Ave. NW
Comstock Park

ACCURATE MOBILE HOME & RV SVC

15142 COALTER AVE
Kent City

Ace Heating & Cooling Co

1979 E Sherman Blvd
Muskegon

ACTION PLUMBING & HEATING INC

1134 MORREN CT
Wayland

Bilz Plumbing & Mechanical

235 2nd St
Ferrysburg

BILZ POOLS INC

304 W SAVIDGE ST
Spring Lake

Bradfield Home Improvement and Remodeling LLC

1107 South Griffin St
Grand Haven

Burton & Sons

32900 Manor Park
Garden City

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Cardinal Remodeling & Design LLC

1677 Gentian Dr SE
Grand Rapids

CHARY CONSTRUCTION

21 CHARY LN
Sparta

CL PLUMBING INCORPORATED

4265 Lincoln Rd.
Holland

Clark Plumbing Inc.

3733 Dunecrest Dr.
Muskegon

Complete Flooring & Interiors

1116 Plainfield Ave NE
Grand Rapids

Cregger Plumbing & Sewer

2305 Goodrich
Ferndale

Custom Upgrades, LLC.

747 44th St SW
Wyoming

D & J Sewer Cleaning

1012 Washington Ave
Muskegon

DEFRELL PLUMBING INC

16983 STANTON ST
West Olive

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Doctor Rooter

908 Orchard Ave
Muskegon

DUFF PLUMBING

2195 SHERIN ST
Muskegon

DuraFinish Inc

3045 Broadway Ave SW
Grandville

EAST END PLUMBING

8351 PLEASANT RIDGE CT
Jenison

EDWARD THOMPSON PLUMBING

5895 STAPLE RD.
Twin Lake

EverDry Waterproofing of Grand Rapids

5273 Division Ave S
Wyoming

Ferguson Counter

1577 Getty St
Muskegon

FIXALL ELECTRIC MOTOR SERVICE INC

737 BUTTERWORTH ST SW
Grand Rapids

Flooring America

900 44th St SW
Wyoming

FRANKS PLUMBING & HEATING CO

1410 FULTON ST
Grand Haven

G R Metro Plumbing LLC

1918 Rogue River Rd NE
Belmont

G.C.E. REMODELING

1588 Lori ln.
Grand Rapids

Godwin Plumbing Inc.

3703 S Division Ave.
Grand Rapids

Godwin West Hardware & Plumbing

1639 Chicago Dr SW
Wyoming

GREAT LAKES SEWER & SEPTIC

2345 E MCMILLIAN RD
Twin Lake

H & H services LLC

P.O. Box 195
Ada

Harder Construction LLC

7861 Ridgwood Dr
Jenison

Herrema & Sons Plumbing

2691 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

Janric Enterprises LLC

3859 Eastbrook Dr
Muskegon

Joe's Clean- Up Service LLC.

1621 richmond nw
Grand Rapids

KENTWOOD PLUMBING & HEATING

3411 32ND ST SE
Grand Rapids

Kingdom Construction Inc.

23927 Ecorse Rd
Taylor

KITCHEN TUNE-UP

2653 PEBBLE CT
Zeeland

Max Plumbing

4288 Clay Ave SW
Grand Rapids

Maynard's Water Conditioning LLC

9980 Cherry Valley Ave SE
Caledonia

McDonald Plumbing

7791 Eastern Ave SE
Grand Rapids

MD Home Services

412 N Robert St
Ludington

Meticulous Builders

2430 Bayne Rd
Twin Lake

Midwest Heating & Cooling

1625 Walker NW
Grand Rapids

Modernistic Carpet Cleaning

821 Wakefield
Plainwell

MORRIS BUILDERS INC

7221 Davies Dr NE
Rockford

Mr. Handyman of Greater Grand Rapids

3850 29th St SE
Grand Rapids

Newmyer Plumbing LLC

3525 E Ellis Rd
Muskegon

Northside Plumbing

5415 Russell Rd
Twin Lake

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

NYSTROM BUILDERS LLC

5995 12 Mile Rd NE
Rockford

Odd Job Todd

2327 Greenview Drive SW
Wyoming

ORCHARD HILL MECHANICAL

PO Box 557
Casnovia

Peter Somerdyke Plumbing

3555 32nd St
Grand Rapids

Petersen Plumbing & Heating Inc

1610 Coit Ave NE
Grand Rapids

PINE CREEK CONSTRUCTION INC

50 W 3rd St
Holland

Plumbing Plus

2021 S 1100 E

Plumbing Professors

40665 Koppernick Rd.
Canton

Professional Home Improvements Inc

3955 W River Dr NE
Comstock Park

RAPID FLUSH INC

1047 ROBBINS RD
Grand Haven

RAPID ROOTER PLUMBING

2479 152nd Ave
Holland

Reliable Vendors

1438 Rathbone S.W.
Grand Rapids

Retired Master Plumber

7701 Jonagold Dr SE
Grand Rapids

RICH & HOWELL PLUMBING INC

1580 CRESTON ST
Muskegon

Robertson Enterprises LLC

22831 Shagbark Dr
Beverly Hills

RYAN'S MODERN SEWER CLEANING

316 Bradford St NE
Grand Rapids

Scheid Plumbing, Heating & Cooling Inc.

990 Industrial Park Drive
Whitehall

Schepers' Lawn Sprinkling

6634 Roger Dr
Jenison

Scotts Plumbing Drain Rescue

10690 summit ave
Rockford

Sheely Plumbing Inc.

8151 McCords Ave SE
Alto

Smith & Son Building & Remodeling

1409 Sullivan Rd.
Ravenna

Somerset Painting & Professional Improvements

647 S Spinningwheel Ln
Bloomfield Hills

Standale Interiors

4046 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids

T & T INSTALLERS

4316 LAKE HARBOR RD
Muskegon

Total Interiors

491 Houston St
Muskegon

VAN'S PLUMBING & HEATING INC

84 W ASH
Cedar Springs

Vander Hyde

1058 Scribner Ave NW
Grand Rapids

VELCO PLUMBING

5622 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

Wahlfield Drilling Co Inc.

4449 Westshire Dr
Comstock Park

Wallside Windows Inc

27000 Trolley Industrial Dr
Taylor

Whitney Electric & Plumbing

3120 Kenyon Ln
Middleville

WILLIAMS DISTRIBUTING INC

658 RICHMOND ST NW
Grand Rapids

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