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Over 4,826 reviews for
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"We purchased an online coupon for $89 for 1,000 square feet of radiant
. In the first place, the Angie's List ad clearly showed "bats"" (as opposed to spray on
). The contractor blamed the mistake on Angie's List. OK, mistakes happen. I guess I could live with sprayed-on
. So the guy whipped out his measuring wheel and measured the roof line. By his calculations we had a little over 2,000 square feet. He put his pencil to paper and the quote came to a little over $1,000! So to translate: it was $89 for that first 1,000 feet. The second 1,000+ feet was over $900!!!! When I balked at the price, the guy offered to do our garage door for the $89 coupon. Moral of the story: if it sounds too good to be true it frequently is! So I bid the guy a fond farewell and we'll chalk this one up to a lesson learned. Now I have to figure out how to get my certificate refunded. Y'all be careful out there now!

-Robert G.

"I was very pleased with the service, professionalism of
. They arrived on time at the scheduled day of work. Work was completed promptly," professionally. The cleanup was excellent. Overall I was very pleased with my experience with
and would hire them again and would also recommend their services.

-Judith D.

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Local Articles in Holland

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

attic access door able to convert to room
Remodeling - General, Insulation

Wish you had more room in your home? Attics have room for you to convert into living space.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Holland


Installation was performed in a professional manner. We were very pleased with the results of the job. Inspection of insulation found that we needed to add a little more to be more energy efficient; we scheduled that service as well.
- Julian G.

Showed up on time, kept floor clean in area where attic was entered. Air sealed the attic, put in new eave vents in attic and added celluose insulation to attic to go from R 30 to R50 rating. Only have had the air seal and attic insulation for one winter since work was completed but first winter the upstairs of the home was much more comfortable than in the past. They did a great job and the results of there work are just what we needed. Arrived on time for quote and first visit, explained everything they could do, arrived on time to do the job, cleaned up after, great experience. Wish all contractors worked like these folks, We could not be happier with the work.
- Mark P.

They did a great job. The guys who came out were absolutely professional. They cleaned up after they left and left it cleaner than before they started!
- Vera S.

Once again I ordered the "special" and once again was told during the service that didn't cover all costs and it would be an addition; $49 …what I paid for the original deal!! z This is the 2nd time this happened with "specials"
- rhiannon H.

Very punctual and reps were very clean, left no mess, communicated throughout the entire process. They provided a pleasant experience.
- Linda G B.

It turned out pretty good. The final product was good. The price was good. Installation work wasn't perfect. It would be B for that part and A for value.

Jeriami was very thorough. He found a very serious gas leak, which I fixed that day. A few days later he gave us a report with some suggested repairs. Very professional and knowledgeable. He indicated that we would find more savings in blow in insulation than new windows. This was very educational for us, because we were considering new windows, to offset high heating bills. We were delighted to find out that the blow in insulation is less than the cost of windows. We are considering having them perform some of the work that they recommended. I highly recommend this business if you would like to find out how your home heating and cooling performs.
- Glenn G.

Great service. I couldn't have asked for better. Great communication, life-time warranty that transfers to new owners if the house is sold, great price compared to other quotes I had gotten. I'm very pleased!
- Melissa G.

Insulation Contractors in Holland, MI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A&M Siding Of W Michigan

11830 Stultz St NE

Above Roofing & Exteriors

1728-A DeWent St

All in One Builders Inc

1950 Waldorf St Nw
Grand Rapids


Sand Lake

America's Best Choice Home Improvements

4310 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Avalon Building Concepts

5017 Division Ave South
Grand Rapids

Bakker Piano Service

14092 Fox Trl Dr

Bradfield Home Improvement and Remodeling LLC

1107 South Griffin St
Grand Haven

Built Solid Renovations LLC

123 Main
Sterling Heights

Chandonnet Builders

2471 Whitehall rd

Chucks Do It All Maintenance LLC

610 Pleasant St SE
Grand Rapids

Custom Upgrades, LLC.

747 44th St SW

Diversified Home Services LLC.

756 Rusty Dr.S.E.
Grand Rapids

Doyle and Doyle Exteriors

1892 Frontier St SW



Gale Insualtion

3030 Sangra Ave SW.

Greater Muskegon/ Builders

5376 Duck Lake Rd

GreenFIT Homes

10194 Northland Drive

Hudson Home Improvement

1167 Madison Ave SE Ste 7
Grand Rapids

Hudsonville Contractors LLC

7559 36th Ave

J & S Siding Inc

PO Box 547
Byron Center

Jobson Construction

Comstock Park

Joe's Clean- Up Service LLC.

1621 richmond nw
Grand Rapids

Joel Sweet Builder LLC

2515 72nd Ave

Jones Construction and Consulting

963 Knapp Street NE
Grand Rapids

Jordan Roofing

2018 Cedar St Ste B2

Karasiewicz Construction, Inc.

9280 Wolven Ave NE

Kodiak Construction LLC

1622 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids


12635 FELCH ST

Meticulous Builders

2430 Bayne Rd
Twin Lake


PO BOX 8382

Michigan's West Coast Remodeling

562 Liberty
Grand Rapids

Montell Construction

401 Hall St SW
Grand Rapids

Muskegon Window Tinting INC.

2386 S. Getty,

New Image Remodeling


North Kent Contractors

16673 Tyrone Ave
Kent City

Novak's Remodeling and Repair



5995 12 Mile Rd NE



Prestige Home Improvement

429 West Mill Street

Professional Home Improvements Inc

3955 W River Dr NE
Comstock Park

Ralph David Builder

446 135th Ave

Rebuilt, LLC

6519 Thornapple River Dr SE

Retro-Craft L.L.C.

8934 Hanna Lake Ave

River City Construction

9129 Bailey Dr NE


5833 128TH AVE


593 136TH AVE

Schaafsma Heating & Cooling

25 N Park St NW
Grand Rapids


4296 Palmer Rd.

Set Apart Construction

9844 Byron Center Ave SW
Byron Center

Sherd Construction And Services LLC

1112 N Black River Drive

Sikma Construction Services LLC

2300 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids

Smart Roofing Systems Inc

9093 Buck Run Trail NE



Somerset Painting & Professional Improvements

647 S Spinningwheel Ln
Bloomfield Hills

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street


Grand Rapids


1702 92ND AVE

Terminix - Grand Rapids

4039 40th St SE
Grand Rapids

The Handyman & Moore LLC

3147 Peachleaf Ct



Truseal Specialist, LLC

1884 108th St. SW
Byron Center

Turn Key Home Improvement

16240 Lowell Rd


513 E 18TH STR 16

VDB Builder LLC

603 Lugers Rd.

W.M.G.B. Inc

2131 Martindale Ave SW


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


14350 W 8 Mile Rd
Oak Park

WellHome of Grandville

3030 Sangra Ave

West Michigan Install and Sales

165 River Street

West Michigan Insulation

3402 Taylor Street

West Michigan Roofing Co

18450 171St Ave
Spring Lake


Grand Rapids

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