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"seemed like bait and switch. showed me two surge suppressors a cheap one he said I paid for, and a good one that would cost me $199 more. of course the good one" was highly recommended. I went for it, so a previously $99 service, turned into almost $300.


"I contacted Mr.
, who promptly scheduled an appointment for an estimate. After the appointment, I was told I should have an estimate in" a few days. After a week, I had not received it, and contacted Mr.
, who then sent the estimate to me. On August 12th, I scheduled an appointment for the week of August 29th, to be completed before Thursday of that week. On the 29th, I called Mr.
and left a voice message in an attempt to confirm the appointment. I did not hear from Mr.
, so on the 30th, I emailed him to confirm our appointment. Still no response. What a waste of time when I could have had a more professional provider come to complete my work during the weeks I waited!!

-Mike K.

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Local Articles in Kennebunk

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

wind power
Electrical, Solar Panels

For wind power to work well in a residential setting, it needs much space and a free-flowing breeze.

computer energy-saving tips
Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Kennebunk


I emailed
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electronics on the same day they came out to install the wall switches - August 26 - and I have not received a resoponse other than they withdrew $70.36 from my bank account immediately. Since I have not heard from them, I am copying the email I sent them and posting it on the Review website to see if they will respond to my request to be credited $70.36.
The following was my email to them:
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
just left after replacing 5 light switches. I was surprised to find out, as he was leaving, that I was being charged $70.36 for a service charge. I had no idea there was a service charge for someone to come to my home to do the service I paid for on Angies List. I have had other companys come to my home (R-S Electrical as an example) and this is the first time I have been charged a fee other than the fee I had already paid for on Angies List. There is no mention of a service charge that would be charged to me other than the fee I had already paid for on Angies List.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his assistant were here for 1 hour.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
' assistant could not install 2 Wemo switches he was assigned to install by
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
. If you send 2 electricians to my home and charge me 1 hour for the 2 hours I have paid for I should get two individuals who are able to perform basic electrical skills to complete the job.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
had to install the 2 wemo switches himself. I am requesting a refund of $70.36 for the service charge.
- Bill C.

10 minute job cost $200. Called the main office to understand charges, he said they always quote before they do the work so you know what you're buying and can make an informed decision. However, the electrician most certainly did not quote, did the quick job and charged $200 to insert a breaker into an already wired slot. Plus, the Angie's List deal is no deal at all, the charge includes nothing for the job itself and just goes towards the cost of the job. So Angie's deal could have been FREE, job still would have been $200! I guess if you chose not to use them, then it would have reduced the service call cost (from $120 to $70). But not using the guy for the job at hand probably never happens. Misleading. Not sure if that's
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
or Angie, either way it was a non-deal "deal".
- Ryan H.

I purchased a coupon on Angie's List for one hour of electrical work from Foster's Electric. I made an appointment more than one week in advance and agreed to be home from 2-4 pm on Sep 2.. At 4 pm no one had showed so I called Fosters Electric and my call was forwarded to the Service manager,
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
.I left a message on his voicemail asking for information concerning my appointment. He called back ten min later and said he didn't know what the problem was but thought one of his vans must have broken down. He promised to call back. I waiting almost an hour and called back. The administrative assistant that answered the call said she had no idea what was going on and provided the cell number for
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
but added he was in a meeting. I called the number she provided and the first two times the phone rang and then was disconnected. On the third call
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
answered and I asked him what he had found out concerning the van and my appointment. He said he didn't know who was on the appointment list for the van and that it wasn't his fault the van broke down. I agreed with him it wasn't his fault the van had broken down but common courtesy and respect for other's time would warrant
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
call and let the customer know the appointment would not be honored. He countered with "Will what did you expect when you use a coupon and get the service for half price?" I countered with the fact that coupons are a way for a business to expand their clientele and set themselves up for follow-on work and added that if
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
didn't want to do the work for the 50% off they shouldn't offer a coupon. Customers who pay with or without a coupon deserve the same respect and courtesy. He said I shouldn't be upset and get angry with them because it wasn't their fault. I again explained I was not upset for the van breaking down but the fact
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
didn't have the decency to call and let me know they wouldn't be able to do the electric work as scheduled and that I would have to reschedule. I even recommended that in the future should this occur again they have the administrative assistant call the customers and let them know. I asked for a refund for the coupon because I did not feel comfortable having Foster's Electric
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
complete the work and I did not approve of the disrespectful behavior.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
promised to have someone reimburse the cost of the coupon tomorrow. About 15 min later
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
called back and offered to reschedule the appointment and refund the coupon. I was actually offended by this because if he felt I wasn't worthy of full service as a coupon customer I can't imagine what he felt I deserved as a "free" customer. I politely declined the offer and asked again for a refund for the coupon I had purchased. I have used coupons offered on Angie's List in the past and never had any difficulties and I never felt I was treated any differently than if I had been a full paying customer. I routinely post positive reviews on Angie's List and am saddened that I have to post this negative review but I do not want others to encounter the same experience without warning. I will be using a different electrical company for my needs in the future.
- Robin D.

This company is great. They responded to my email the next day, set up an estimate within a few days, and scheduled the service within a week. They honored an Angies List special for 4 of the lights even though I didn't buy it on-line.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up exactly on time and did the installation and he was a real professional. He made sure I was comfortable with the location and the completed work. We got dimmers as well and this totally changed the room and hallway. This was a great experience.
- John C.

Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
is fantastic! Great service and always on time. They clean up and are very warm and friendly. We have had multiple jobs at the house on other occasions and we keep calling them when work needs to be done. We had some issues with other companies work adn they were able to fix them and make other recommendations. My family referred
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
to us and we won't use anyone else.
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
are a great duo and they are very personable. They care about the work they do. We have been very happy with their services and encourage everyone to use them!
- Amanda S.

I called
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
came out promptly and installed an outlet in a water heater closet. He looked over the job, gave me an estimate, and was done before I knew it. He fished a small section of wall for the ground since I hate exposed wire. Everything was perfect. He quickly checked to make sure nothing was knocked out of service, gathered his things, and was off to the next job.
I was amazed at his expertise. Very polite, pleasant, and neat appearance. I will be contacting
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
soon to rewire my entire house to bring it up to date!!!!
- Patricia H.

I scheduled with a coupon for $59 for $100 work. It took 2 weeks to come to the house. Then when he was supposed to finally come they called and cancelled and said he was sick. He showed up 3 days later. When he came he said he couldn't find the problem. He was there for 2 hours, checking this and checking that. Then he said he couldn't find the problem and he was going to have to rip all the walls out to find it. I said no. I then called another electrician. He came promptly the next day. He found that one of the outlets had a broken wire. His visit lasted 20 minutes and the problem was totally fixed. I would NEVER recommend
Kennebunk Electricians Provider Name Locked
to ANYONE. I spent $59 for NOTHING. And then had to pay the electrician that knew what he was doing $150. Pretty ridiculous.
- jonell G.

The service man came on time and was polite and professional. He fixed the 3 leaking faucets and did not try to"up-sell" or suggest things we did not need. We would definitely use this company again.
- Kathleen H.

Electricians in Kennebunk, ME

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

After View Construction

352 Main St Apt 16



Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alexander's Masonry, Roofing & Restoration

73 Greenfield Rd.
North Waterboro



B. Valle Electric

186 Linscott hill road
North Berwick

Baldridge Electric

77 Rocky Dundee Rd

Baldridge Electric

60 Hill Street

Bauman Electric Inc

PO Box 6261
Cape Elizabeth



Bear Brothers Construction

69 Buchanan St
South Portland

Bear Hill Electric, LLC

P.O. Box 59
Hollis Center


West Poland





Caron & Waltz

184 Main Street
South Portland

Casa Pro LLC

PO Box 425

CertaPro Painters of Southern ME

7 Bridges Dr




17 Chestnut St

David Harwood's Electrical Services

334 23rd Street Loop

Electrical Innovations Inc.

1303 Windy Meadow Dr



Fortin Construction, Inc

35 Markalyn St

FullTec Consultants

Commonwealth Ave

Gelinas Electric

6 Romeo Ln



Greg's Construction

112 Woodford St.






385 Main Street
South Portland



Hometown Builders LLC

P.O.Box 98
East Parsonsfield

JMP Electric

PO Box 531



Landstone, LLC.

17 Chestnut St

LR Higgins Inc

668 Main St


41 Vesper St # 1



Mario's Premium Home Improvement

44 Elmwood ave.
South Portland

Marshall's Modern Homes

21 Marshall Valley Road

Matthew J Bouton

50 Roberts St

Mattra Inc

P.O. Box 1004

Mcvey Electric

6 Milliken Rd


99 Commercial St

MJ Electric

PO Box 741

Morellco Electric

PO Box 457

Mousam Valley Wire Works

334 23rd street loop


South Portland





Pace Electric Inc.

854 Broadway
South Portland

Peacelady Painting

Granite Street

Preparedness Experts LLC

34 Rainmaker Dr # 3

Quirk Electric

4 Schooner rd



rolling tones.

PO Box 704


North Berwick

Sawyer & Whitten Marine

416 Commercial St

Sellick Electric

4 History Lane
Hollis Center


76 Arena Lake Dr


PO Box 1957

Thor Builders

108 Ocean Avenue


60 Day Rd.

Twitchell Electric Inc

369 Spurwink Ave
Cape Elizabeth

Wakita Electric

486 Newfield Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watermatic Irrigation

PO Box 2766
South Portland

Watts-Up Electric

47 Pleasant Ave

Windsor Construction LLC

Old Orchard Beach



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