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tried to work with the old outlets to improve the connection but the old wires were rusted to the underground conduit and couldn't" be replaced. The next day he came back and replaced both outlets and ran conduit, above ground, to allow the fountain pump to operate again. Very professional, friendly and did a great clean-up. Can highly recommend Fairway.

-Judy A.

"After finding mice in my basement last winter, I found that it was due to an opening to the exterior created by the can housing the meter socket pulling away from" the house. Apparently
failed to secure the can housing the meter socket to the side of the house when it was built 10 years ago and also failed to insulate around the hole in the foundation where the service leads into the panel in the basement. Over the course of 10 years, the can housing the meter socket settled into the earth, thereby pulling away from the house. Through Angie's List, I found that
was local and figured I'd give them a call. I spoke to
, the owner, and after discussing the issue with him, he said he'd stop by the next day to take a look. He arrived on time and not only quoted me a price, he had the issue resolved within 40 minutes with the help of his partner
's confidence in his work reassured me that the job was being done right. I have some further electrical work that I intend to have completed in the near future and will most certainly call on
for the project.


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Local Articles in Logansport

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

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Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

orange brick house in winter
Garage Doors, Roofing, Holiday Decorating, Gutter Cleaning, Pest Control/Exterminating, Lawn & Yard Work, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Sweep, Fireplaces, Electrical, Handymen, Housecleaning, Animal & House Sitting, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Lighting, Wallpapering, Plumbing, Heating & A/C, Auto Service, Auto Tires, Allergy & Immunology

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

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Replacing an old circuit breaker box merits the expense — for a number of reasons.

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Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Logansport


The electrician came a day or two after I made the initial call and arrived promptly. He did a whole house safety inspection to find other jobs that needed to be done, but there was no heavy sales pitch to complete the other recommended jobs. We did have the suggested whole house surge protection installed due to past problems with power surges. The job went well mostly, but it took between 14-16 hours for the electrician to do the job, which in my humble opinion, seems too long. The price seemed excessive as well. I will add that the electrician was courteous and professional.
- Katherine M.

Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
called up after I contacted the Angie's List concierge services when I called 4 other electricians who never called me back. He gave me an estimate for the work, and scheduled with me to come back a few days later to do the actual work. He showed me the shoddy work that had been done previously. It took a 4 hours to get it all done, including snaking some new wiring through the walls, and replacing receptacles and switches. And he cleaned up nicely afterwards.
- David P.

I have used
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
for my electrical work for several years. He is always professional, courteous, punctual, and friendly. I was working on my rental home to get it ready for sale. After all the work was done, and we were placing bulbs in the outlets, I discovered the two lights in the kitchen were not working. The Realtor was coming within the next two days to list the house. I called
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
, and he was on the other side of town, otherwise he said he would come that same day.
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
came the next day and repaired the lights. Also, because he is professional and a nice person, he checked all the outlets in the home, told me which outlets I did not have to replace because they were not required at the time the house was built. I will continue to use
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
for all my electrical work in the future. I highly recommend
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Rosemary T.

We had two visits from
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
, in September 2015 and October 2015. We were impressed by his professionalism and knowledge. He replaced two sockets in a recessed light fixture, made repairs to a noisy exhaust fan, assessed replacing another recessed fixture (advised it wasn't necessary)....More /> The major challenge was replacing a faulty socket in a decorative chandelier.
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
contacted the retailer who arranged with the manufacturer to supply replacement parts, to claim warranty, resulting in no cost to us for the new components. The second visit was to install the new socket in a very intricately designed fixture.
The work was performed in a timely way, on schedule, and efficiently.
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
charges an hourly rate, which made us feel comfortable that we could request attention to several different items. We would highly recommend
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked

- Charles and Elsie P.

They responded quickly and got me into their schedule quickly. Showed up promptly, explained the cause of the problem, and replaced the faulty switch. Also explained how the switch might have become faulty and possible prevention. The $200 charge for a service visit seemed a bit steep to me, but on the other hand it's been several years since I've had to call in an electrician so I can't be sure. Very pleased with the prompt, courteous, professional service.

- Neil B.

I purchased the deal through Angie's List and gave the contractor 3 dates I was available. He was not available for any of those dates and we agreed on Oct 7th at 8AM per his request. I had to change my work schedule to accommodate this time. The contractor said he would be in contact when we got closer to the date. On Oct 6th ( the day before scheduled date) I called the listed number and got his answering service, He never returned my message. I emailed him and 4 hours later he responded: "
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
I am sorry but I am going to have to postpone our appointment to a later date. I apologize and will be in touch when I can give you a date. Thanks
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
I changed my schedule for him and already purchased the deal. If he knew he was behind he should have contacted me earlier, not waited until I Reached out for him the day before. I wish I has seen the previous review prior to buying the deal, seems like the same situation as mine. Contacted Angie's List for a refund. Will find a new electrician.
- todd C.

I called
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
Service because I couldn't get my regular electrician to return my calls. I will definitely be calling
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
from now on! He and his assistant pulled into my driveway right at 9:00am as scheduled and got to work immediately diagnosing the problem. Once they figured out the disconnect was between the electronic switch and the reciever they walked me through the issue and made the recommendation to replace the fan (though
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
did also offer to try to replace just the switch). I decided to replace the whole fan, but I didn't have one picked out already so I thought they would need to come back later in the week (and I'd have to take extra time off work), but
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
offered to go grab a cup of coffee while I ran to Lowe's to pick out a new fan! His assistant was even willing to go to Lowe's too, since I wasn't sure if I would need anything additional. I was really impressed - awesome customer service! These guys are pleasant, efficient and friendly! Generally I feel uncomfortable when contractors are working in my home, but the friendly banter coming from the room while they worked was pleasant and made the whole experience way less awkward for me. They got the fan up quickly and got rid of the old one. They even gave me a quick run down of the features on the new remote.
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
did not charge me for his first trip to my house due to a scheduling mixup even though I know they drove all the way out from Sherrils Ford. The final bill was incredibly reasonable. Could not be happier and will be calling
Logansport Electricians Provider Name Locked
from now on!
- Margaret F.

Excellent. Responded within 5 minutes of message to company, updated with texts, was punctual. Assessed problem, fixed it, and gave recommendations for preventing similar electrical issue in the future. Also fixed light (not original reason for call). Professional and courteous.
- Angelica H.

Electricians in Logansport, IN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & R Supply

6 Cumberland Dr

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

5561 W 74th St

Brandt's Heating And Cooling

118 W North St

Built Construction

5106 Algonquin Tr

Byrco Inc.

206 South Flint Street

C. L. Construction

1822 Meridian Street

Carpenter Electric, Inc

2233 US 27 S

CCT Underground LLC

1021 E Michigan ST

Childers Contracting

4404 Rolland Dr


1029 West 300 South

CP Brothers Painting, LLC

2804 Meadow Drive

Custom Machine Design

9413 oklahoma street

David Ziese Plumbing Heating & Cooling Inc

3900 West 400 North

DC Roofing & Exteriors

596 Metarie Dr


601 21ST ST



Everett Electric

1740 E 1050 S

Expert Transmission & Auto Care

1404 E Morgan St

Father and Son Construction, LLC

1179 S Lockenour Ln

Fire & Ice heating-cooling

523 w markland ave



Freedom Mechanical

1017 S. Leeds St.

From The Foundation Up Service

11743 state highway 243

Gifford Electric

P.O. Box 792

Gunter Contracting

Twelve Mile



Handyman Services

POBox 852

Hays & Sons

800 E Thompson Rd

Home Energy LLC

1013 Elroy Dr


7868 West 180 South

J E Johnson Construction

210 Wickersham Dr. E.

JML Electric

1019 E Foster St

JnC Enterprises

8679 S US Hwy 231



M.O.M.Co. Properties

1210 Park Rd.

Mainstream Works

490 S. County Road 660 W
North Vernon

Malloy's Restoration

5151 E. 62nd Street

Marks Service Center

6500 W Kilgore Ave

Mordenti Building Services

4071 E County Rd 75 N


1285 N 700 W



On Time Heating & Cooling

8925 E Church St

One Planet Solar & Wind

2350 Wabash Ave
Terre Haute


1499 South Dixon & West Defenbaugh

Restoration One

1663 Rossville Ave

Ron's Construction

102 W Main Street

safe home energy LLC

4150 trees drve



Steve Graber Construction

8824 N 900 E

T & C Electric

1432 Tam O Shanter Ln


413 E 1300 S

Tri-Star Mobile RV Service

7715 N 900 W

W3network Consulting

501A E Saint Louis St


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wilds Restoration Services

5858 Thunderbird Road

Shop Local Electrician Services in Logansport, IN

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