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A
"Description of work: a full tear-down of existing insulation; identification and insulation of draft sources that had caused water pipes to freeze; insulation of" surrounding walls and gaps; installed heat-reflective finishing over insulation; placed wrap insulation on water pipes; rebuilt drywall. The work, which involved a difficult reinsulation job, was performed very timely and thoroughly.
and his people were very responsive and attentive, and the final result appears to fit the bill exactly. Price was very fair.

-CHARLES H.

A
"I contacted Sunlight because of the strong mildew odor in the house we just purchased. I have a particularly small crawl space and was impressed they were able to" get under the house to offer a quote and subsequently perform the job. Their representative
was excellent to work with as were the young men that performed the actual service. Everyone was professional and friendly. The gentlemen performing the service were courteous and cleaned up after themselves when they were finished. The odor is gone! Excellent Job.

-Lisa G.

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Local Articles in Saint Augustine

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Saint Augustine

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Rating
Paragon was great. They came out to review what was needed, gave a quote for all services on the spot and quickly scheduled a time to have the services performed. They were on time, professional, cleaned up completely after they were through and did an excellent job. I would definitely recommend and use them in the future.
- Steven C.
A

Rating
the house was built in1979 and the original ground piles from the excavation were still there. The job entailed leveling the ground piles, pulling out all of the old fiberglass insulation between the joists and applying open cell spray foam insulation on the subfloor between the joists and laying down
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to create a moisture
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
on the leveled ground. The work area was only between 3 and 4 feet in height. They covered everything to protect against dirt and overspray in the adjoining garage area, including covering my truck. They ventilated the area with a large hose to the outside. After doing the spraying they cut the
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and pieced it together taping it and used wires to anchor it to the ground having to cut around all of the block pillars. They never left until after 7 pm. The next morning they came back in and finished installing the
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and used vacuums to clean up. When they were all finished it looked like they had never been here!!
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner had come and assessed the job and answered all of my questions and his wife also helps in their business and answered questions for me as well. had no problem reaching them at any time.And they will now be doing the spray insulation of the roof of my horse barn in the next week.
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
explained how the walls and everything would be draped and protected. I feel very confident they will do a good job. I would highly recommend them.
- Leslie S.
A

Rating
After several years of brutal winters and the wife complaining of a cold drafty house I decided to have a home energy audit done. I had a friend refer me to
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
from
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and after reading good reviews on Angie's list I decided to give him a call.
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was prompt at returning my call and setting up an appointment for an energy audit. After I explained the drafty issues we were having he set up the blower door test along with infrared camera and we went room by room identifying the sources of the drafts in each room. He was extremely helpful explaining that a lot of the draft issues I could fix myself with a quick run to the home improvement store. With the infrared camera we could see all the cold air flow in the attic space and along a majority of the rim joists.
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very honest with me explaining what he could help with and what he couldn't due to lack of access to the area. He spent an extra hour talking furnaces and windows with me as we are looking to upgrade both. He explained all the energy saving rebates available as well as financing that is available through the home energy improvement programs. I plan on using
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
for insulating my house and having him be my general contractor for my window and HVAC upgrades which I'm currently in the process of getting quotes based on the contractors he recommended.
- Ryan T.
A

Rating
Great personalized, custom service from the owner. They showed up on time and he gave us great energy saving tips and the install of 10 windows weatherseal was quickly and expertly done in no time. Great work. Great customer service. We will call you again for attic insulation makeover, guys!
- Michael L.
A

Rating
The owner of the company visited to estimate the job on 2/25/2015. After going to the places where cold air was getting into the house (he showed me as we went ), he reviewed what is necessary in our area of Ohio item by item. The three areas in our home which required insulation were the attic, the ceiling on the first floor, and the crawlspace (no basement). He showed me the materials needed and why they were effective. We agreed on a price for the job, and he sent a crew the next day to do the work, since things are a bit slower in this cold snap. Three men showed up. The leader went over the work order as I showed him where to access the spaces. The work order was a copy of the agreement I signed the day before, and they went to work. They blew cellulose into the attic after prepping leaks. They blew cellulose into the space over the first floor after prepping the leaks. In the crawlspace, no blow in was used. A combination of injected foam and hand cut Insulation was inserted in the nooks and crannies. It took, by my estimate, about five hours of solid work to complete the job. I inspected the work, paid the piper, and we were done. We have already noticed benefits, as there are much shorter periods when the heat pump is on, especially during the day .


- James T.
A

Rating
I had 4 estimates and this was the least expensive by a bit. I do not always go with the lowest price. It is just as important to me that the person I am dealing with seems knowledgeable, does not do a hard sell and does not condescend to female me.
Updating from a 67 year old house at maybe R10 to R38. Took at most an hour and a half for my small house, no mess. The area covered was approx 750 sq ft. Part of the attic is floored so they added a
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
around the edges to insure the insulation did not get into the storage area. Baffled between the
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. He also vented my bathroom fan through the roof which had been on my TTD list for two years and did not charge extra.
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was personable, professional and explained in detail what they would be doing.
I am having my kitchen redone and will hire them to provide insulation behind the new cabinets.
I am very, very pleased with this company.

- Patty M.
A

Rating
Workers were great, kept me appraised of everything they were going to do. Took pictures of all areas that I could no see in person and plan to send me copies to keep.
- Patrick T.
A

Rating
Wow!
Wow!
Wow!
Amazing follow-up, competence and ultra friendly. Major kudos to the office manager (
Saint Augustine Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) who just stunned me with her professional approach.
Very rare for a business such as this to excel in customer service.
- Jonathon N.

All Insulation Contractors in Saint Augustine, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

911 Restoration Inc

10730 NW 53rd St
Ft Lauderdale

A to Z Services LLC

12805 Old Field Landing Dr
Jacksonville

ABC Windows and More

6684 Columbia Park Dr S
Jacksonville

Advanced Energy Auditors Inc.

13741 Harbor Creek Place
Jacksonville

ADVANCED FOAM INSULATION

232 STATE ROAD
Saint Augustine

Air Engineers Service Experts

8475 Western Way
Jacksonville

Air Excellence Installation & Service Inc

3813 Bald Eagle Ln
Jacksonville

Airodyne Technologies

2450 Gladiolus Av.
Middleburg

All Elements Mechanical Corp

776 Bennett Dr
Longwood

All Seasons Insulation

Saint Augustine

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AMERICAN INSULATION

HIGHWAY 207
Saint Augustine

American Solar

11497 Columbia Park Dr. W
Jacksonville

Ancient City Construction Inc

2614 Joe Ashton Rd
Saint Augustine

ASAP Plumbing

PO Box 48070
Jacksonville

Ball Heating and Air Conditioning llc.

p o box 23625
Jacksonville

Benton Integrity Roofing Systems

5570 Florida Mining Blvd
Jacksonville

Billy Fife Drywall Inc

1688 Hereford Rd
Middleburg

Bisla.Inc

Jacksonille

Blackstar Group LLC

1030 State Rte 206 E
Saint Augustine

C Zornes Builders Inc

966 Alpine Ridge Court
Orange Park

CAVALIER ENTERPRISES

2025 Square Dance Ct

CCI CLEANING & RESTORATION

1750 EMERSON ST
Jacksonville

CLAY VINYL & GUTTER

1525 VIRGILS WAY
Green Cove Springs

Collis Roofing

485 Commerce Way
Longwood

Conrad Construction Inc

PO Box 470424
Debary

Cook's Air Conditioning & Heating Specialists

6271 St Augustine Rd
Jacksonville

Cool Connections Inc

10142 103rd
Jacksonville

Critter Control of Gainesville

5771 Mining Terrace
Jacksonville

Critter Control of Jacksonville

5771 Mining Terrace
Jacksonville

CS Handyman Services Group, LLC

2806 Paces Ferry Road West
Orange Park

DAVENPORT INSULATION

1901 Park 100 Dr Ste 200

Donovan Heat & Air

315 6th Ave S
Jacksonville Beach

Emco Roofing

404 Beverly Ln
Jacksonville

ENTIRE INC

PO Box 227
Saint Augustine

Ethier Home Improvement

12301 Tweedsmuir Dr # 1

Everetts Custom Renovations LLC

65071 Lagoon Forest Dr
Yulee

Exterior Medics

7540 Accotink Park Road

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Finish Line Cleaning & Coatings LLC

10050 Camp Rd
Glen Saint Mary

First Coast Wildlife Services

351 15th Ave S. Ste. A
Jacksonville Beach

Florida Home Improvement Associates

4070 SW 30th Avenue
Fort Lauderdale

FLORIDA-GEORGIA CONTRACTORS

11433 SAINTS RD
Jacksonville

FOAM 360

620 W. YALE ST
Orlando

Foam Solutions

3513 Sheldrake Drive
Jacksonville

Galaxy Builders Inc

6684 Columbia Pk Dr S
Jacksonville

Green Energy Builders & Solutions

13720 Old Saint Augustine Rd Ste 8
Jacksonville

Greener Solutions Air

4453 Sunbeam Rd

Hamilton Building and Remodeling

2246 Hidden Waters Dr W
Green Cove Springs

Hammond Air Conditioning Inc

3412 Galilee Rd.
Jacksonville

Handyman Matters of Jacksonville

2600 Seneca Dr.
Saint Johns

handyman2hire

3324 W University Ave
Gainesville

Harrington Home Renovations

3948 3rd St S
Jacksonville Beach

HIRE A HANDYMAN

13245 ATLANTIC BLVD
Jacksonville

HOLMAN INC

1855 Cassat Ave Ste 8
Jacksonville

Home Makeover Systems

1608 N Ronald Reagan Blvd
Longwood

HOME SWEET HOMES OF JACKSONVILLE FL

8877 BARCO LN
Jacksonville

House Doctors

3048 N Old Greensboro Rd.

HW Contracting

110 Cumberland Park Drive
Saint Augustine

Intact Construction Management Group

12920 Rocky River Rd. N,

Intercoastal Maintenance & Construction Consultant

1070 bella vista blvd
Saint Augustine

K8 Construction

140 North One Dr

Kayco Roofing

1966 Lakeshore Dr N
Fleming Island

King Construction Company Of Jax, LLC.

10365 Hood Rd S Ste 208
Jacksonville

Lawrence Earley Construction, Inc.

4744 Royal Ave
Jacksonville

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

LYON'S PRIDE HOMES INC

2205 Parkin Rd
Jacksonville

Maldonado Construction Services Inc.

11529 Maclay Ct
Jacksonville

Martinson Handyman Service

266 Southern Rose Dr.
Jacksonville

McGowan's Heating & Air Conditioning

4850 Collins Rd
Jacksonville

McNeal & White Contractors Inc

1857 Wells Rd
Orange Park

METALMAX Buildings, Inc.

PO Box 465
Ruskin

Mike Morello Inc

PO Box 352679
Palm Coast

Mr. Cool Window Tinting

1580-17 Wells Rd
Orange Park

Mr. Handyman Serving Greater Jacksonville

675 Kingsley Ave
Orange Park

NC Home Solutions

3926 Cumberland Rd

Noble Construction Group Inc

6999-02 Merrill Rd
Jacksonville

Olto Construction Inc

P.O.Box 50992
Jacksonville Beach

Parallel Construction Company

4446 Hendricks Avenue
Jacksonville

ProMag Energy Group A/c and Heating

2815 Bolton Rd
Orange Park

Protective Coatings of Lake County, Inc

2307 E County Road 44
Eustis

REMODELING PROS

2763 Mandarin Meadows Dr N
Jacksonville

RoofMax Corp

4237 Salisbury Rd Suite 125
Jacksonville

Sandusky, Inc.

4710 Water Oak Lane
Jacksonville

Savior Homes Inc.

6964 Ramoth Dr.
Jacksonville

simmons home improvement, inc

p.o. box 7461
Jacksonville

Snyder Heating and Air Conditioning

3401 Southside Blvd
Jacksonville

Solstice Energy Consultants

1784 Lakeshore Dr N
Fleming Island

SPRINGHILL BUILDERS LLC

PO Box 359002
Gainesville

SSS CONSTRUCTION INC

9960 WATERMARK LANE WEST
Jacksonville

Sterling Roofing

23 Panther Ln
Ponte Vedra

Stewart Air

221 N Hogan St. #163
Jacksonville

Superior Building

11497 W Columbia Park Dr
Jacksonville

Terminix - Jacksonville

4575 St Augustine Rd
Jacksonville

The Dantzler Group, Inc.

5465 Verna Blvd
Jacksonville

The Varela Construction Group

10033 Sawgrass Dr W Ste 227
Ponte Vedra Beach

The Worker Man

3645 Joe Ashton Rd
Saint Augustine

Thigpen Heating & Cooling Inc

2801 Dawn Rd
Jacksonville

Tier 1 Construction

13245 Atlantic Blvd
Jacksonville

Tillman Building Services

108 Halsema Rd N
Jacksonville

Tivey Construction Inc

768 Frederic Drive
Fleming Island

TOTAL CONSTRUCTION SOLUTIONS INC

1141 Hideaway Dr N
Saint Johns

Touchstone Contracting Solutions Inc

223 Wandering Oaks Dr
Orange Park

TROPIC AIRE of North Florida

9969 OLD KINGS RD
Jacksonville

USA Development Group. LLC

1857 Wells Rd Suite 202
Orange Park

USI First Choice

234-C Industrial Loop S
Orange Park

VERN'S INSULATION & FIREPLACES

3175 US HIGHWAY 1 S
Saint Augustine

Vern's Insulation & Specialties

5808 Mining Trace
Jacksonville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Waychoff’s Heating and Air Inc

6929 Phillips Pky Dr S
Jacksonville

WEATHER ENGINEERS INC

1000 EDISON AVE
Jacksonville

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