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A
"We hired
after a previous mold remediation failed.
was much more thorough than the first mold consultant that we" worked with. They found things that the first consultant did not, and were more professional and helpful as well. They had good advice for us along the way and were very helpful throughout the project to completion.

-Kevin C.

B
"The job went well. The PM offered advice and explained things as they went along. He was most helpful with the insurance investigator who came to review our claim" and see the remediation work and the beginning of the renovation work. Any time there was something we questioned about the work going on, the PM and/or crew was patient in answering these questions. If we noticed something we didn't like the look of in the work, the PM either explained why something was required to be done a certain way or would listen to our comments and make the changes we asked for. When the tile job in the shower first started, they had put down 2 large 2'x2' pieces when we decided we wanted the tile laid in a different pattern. The person laying the tile never complained and pulled up the tile already down and relaid them in the direction we liked better. We also changed from a full bench in the shower stall to two corner benches. They again made the change with no question and never showed any frustration with us. When we decided to use a block window in our shower instead of replacing our broken out window with a regular window that would need to be covered with privacy film, the PM realized our opening for the window wasn't a standard size opening and changing the opening size was not an option. Rather than tell us we couldn't have what we wanted, our PM took it upon himself to actually make a block window for us on his own time that fit our special sized opening. It looks great and he even matched the grill pattern on our other windows in the bathroom with the block sizes he used so our windows would have a consistent look. The work was slow due to special order items, but when the crew got to a point where they were waiting on something, they moved to another task within our project. They were never still. They showed up between 7:30 and 8:00 every morning and worked until 3:00 with only a short lunch break. They laid down brown paper and/or drop cloths on the path to their work area. They cleaned up their work area at the end of every day and pulled up the paper and/or drop cloth. We had a trip we had planned and paid for that fell in the middle of the job. The PM worked with us to ensure we didn't miss a moment of the vacation. There was also a point in our job that the crew had done all they could before our special order tile arrived (our fault since we had our heart set on something that wasn't available in-stock). We were told of the delay the Wednesday prior. The PM worked with the tile shop to put a rush on the order at no additional cost to us. He did reassign our team to another job site while we waited, but with the help of the PM, it was only 2 or 3 days instead of the 10 business days the tile shop told us to expect. The only negative I can say is that in this last job, 4 tiles had pencil
that weren't erased before they sealed the tiles. We didn't find them for almost a month. Since we couldn't just erase the
because the tile was sealed, we called and were told they would send someone out. We were asked if this could wait until someone was in our area since we live on the outer
of their work area. This didn't bother us as we didn't even notice it for a month, so we agreed. It did take 3 weeks for someone to come out, but the workman took care of the issue. Overall we are very pleased with LPS and will be using them for any future project we have. I would recommend them to everyone, especially
and his team.

-Michelle S.

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Local Articles in Madison

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

?

When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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?

Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Madison

A

Rating
we had major water and mold in our basement. It is a 90 year old musty basement with a few separate rooms.
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
performed their work over a few months having to juggle and coordinate with other contractors. This was not a
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
job. Rich and his crew understood our dilemma and went to work with a high degree of professionalism. As one can imagine water and mold makes for major problems and a great deal of stress.
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
did great by us
- Sinks P.
A

Rating
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came out as scheduled to do the inspection. He was prompt and professional during the service. I explained my concerns in the different areas and he showed me how he determined if there was an issue and how serious he believed it to be. He also gave me lots of feedback and general information on what to do next, what needed to be fixed. His service saved me money in that I'd had another contractor look at the problem and they wanted to charge $800 to tear down and rebuild a wall that was not the issue! I would highly recommend
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
's service.
- Sherrie G.
A

Rating
We recently had water damage in our house for a second time in less than a year. With young children including a
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
, I was concerned about the air quality. While there was no visible mold, I wanted to be sure that we didn't have mold spores circulating through the house.
My first point of contact was a woman in the front office (
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
I think) While I don't believe she does testing herself, she was very knowledgeable and advised me to hold off on testing until we had completed the work we had planned to resolve the water issues. She also advised me on ways to minimize chances of mold developing in the meantime. It was a very pleasant and informative interaction. I got off the phone knowing exactly what they would do if I hired them and precisely the cost in addition to her recommendations for what to do while we waited for mold testing.
Once we had the work scheduled to resolve our water issue I immediately called back to schedule the air quality testing. My next interaction was with the inspector. He arrived on time and was completely professional. He explained his process and how the results would be presented very thoroughly. He gave an estimate on when to expect the result and his contact information should we have any questions.
The work was just performed and we expect the results in the next couple of days. Should there any issues with the results (when and how they're presented and/or explained), I'll update this review. However, given the service we've received thus far, I don't expect I'll need to make an update. As of now, I would highly recommend the company. I rated the price as an "A" because it seemed on par with other providers that I researched. However, to be completely fair, I did not get estimates from other companies. I was so impressed with my initial contact with this company I didn't feel compelled to do so.
- Susan K.
A

Rating
Very professional and responsive. When taking the sample, reviewed the space in question, gave preliminary feedback, took sample, and followed up with final report. I recommend them to others.
- Ronald J.
A

Rating
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
spent almost 4 hours inspecting a home my husband and I have an accepted offer on. He answered all our questions throughout the inspection. He took his time and went over all areas of the home several times to make sure he did not miss anything. The report we received the next day was extremely detailed and very clear. His suggestions and thoughts were presented in a clear and easy to understand manner. He took a lot of photos throughout the inspection and included both photos and diagrams in his final report to illustrate any areas of concern. We fully understand all the issues this home has and feel very informed as we move forward in the home buying process.


- Matt B.
A

Rating
The estimator arrived and looked at my issue and provided the appropriate feed back. He also talked about other issues but none that involved my home. The estimate was free.
- J L & SHERRY H.
C

Rating
The estimator was very nice, however he barely poked his head into the crawlspace in order to give an estimate. Other estimators crawled all around the crawlspace in order to give estimates, and included photographs in their reports. He was able to provide an estimate immediately using his tablet.
- j W.
A

Rating
The group arrived quickly, did the
Madison Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
quickly. They were also chosen to do the repair, they had to wait for the permits to do the work, once the permits were available they finished the work, it looks good, no complaints, on time, good work and very courteous...
- Denise K.

Mold Removal Experts in Madison, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AAA PEST CONTROL CORPORATION

P.O. BOX 94
Huntsville

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

Allied CrawlSpace Solutions

3158 Highway 20
Decatur

Almighty & Co LLC

81 Laurel Mills Road.

APRO Home Inspection

3712 Ringgold Rd

ATEC Pest Control

3806 Governors Dr SW
Huntsville

DUCTBUSTERS

8676 EDGEHILL DR
Huntsville

England Home Inspections

PO Box 406
Huntsville

Envirosafe

212 Capshaw Rd
Madison

Fuller Heating ,Air Conditioning & Plumbing

509 Woodward Ave
Muscle Shoals

JC Construction

393 Main Street

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Mels Remodeling LLC

4025 Young Ave Unit C

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Moldlab

2501 Mayes Road

Parker Heating & Cooling

3322 Memorial SW Pkwy Ste 639 E
Huntsville

Personal Touch Carpet Care

PO Box 62
Hazel Green

Pillar To Post Inc

10402 Temperance Street
Huntsville

PuroClean

8468 US Highway 72
Athens

PuroClean Property Restoration

3411 Highway 53
Huntsville

RetroFoam of Alabama

7002 Lynnfield Drive SE
Owens Cross Roads

Rocket City Restoration, Inc.

156 Jetplex ln
Madison

Rolyn Companies

561 Thornton Road

SPARKY SMITH GENERAL CONTRS

312 PALMER RD
Madison

Xterior Solutions

3612 Bradley Street Suite B
Huntsville

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