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Hartselle Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

A
"This was a great deal! I recently bought an older home, with a secondary house on the same lot. Both of these units were not insulated and I expected to have to" pay a great deal of money to get this done. The Deal offered here was for 1000 sq feet, and
was able to let me allocate my unused square footage towards the back house, and provided the remaining square footage need to complete the back house at a reduced rate. His team arrived the next day and they were courteous and mindful of my pets' needing to be kept penned and the doors kept closed (I just moved in and was nervous the animals might try to bolt with strangers in the house). After the work was done I saw no evidence of any stray material or debris left behind. The work itself was very quiet (I had imagined it would be a really noisy process). And, they were really quick too!
called me today to check on my satisfaction...when does that ever happen??!! I was pleased to tell him that my house was freezing cold this morning!!!

-Mike S.

A
"I had several contractors come to the house to give me an estimate. They wanted to replace ALL of my crawlspace insulation with estimates above $2200.00 and quite" frankly they seemed a little sketchy. They wanted a 50% deposit immediately and I felt a little uncomfortable handing over $1000 plus dollars to someone that I couldn't even research on the web. I contacted
because they had been in business for over 50 years as a family owned and operated company.
came out to the house within 2 days and was promptly here when he said he would be. He did a thorough inspection of my crawlspace and said that I needed some repairs, but not all of the insulation was bad. He wanted to reattach some of the old insulation and replace the insulation that was actually bad. I also wanted to replace my contractor grade vapor
. His estimate was less than $800 and he used an upgraded 10 mil vapor
(it happens to be white in color and really spruced up the appearance of the crawlspace as well). His three man crew showed up when promised and immediately went to work. It was a very hot day and my crawlspace is very low, so this was a very difficult job to say the least. The young men were very respectful and hard workers. They were the type of guys that you could give full access to your house and you would have no worries at all. I would not hesitate to recommend
and I would certainly use them again.

-CYNTHIA C.

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Local Articles in Hartselle

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

?

If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Hartselle

A

Rating
I highly recommend
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. After dealing with a number of small contractors over the years to do various odd jobs, it was like a breath of fresh air from start to finish with these guys. They earned my trust and confidence each in each step of the process.
1. When I called they actually answered the phone. (As dumb as that sounds, I found many do not and several don't even bother calling back,)
2.
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, spoke with me himself and was extremely professional, guided me through the process and the pricing upfront. He answered all my questions fully and made me feel quite confident that I had made the right decision calling his company. (Most others that I spoke with either seemed bothered that I had called or came across as sleazy con-men, and none gave up front pricing.)
3. The
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and was ready to begin work right away. (I can tell you horror stories about other contractors who could not even do this
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
task.)
4. The
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was polite. Yes POLITE!!!
5. The
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
had all the correct tools. (My lending toolbox stayed in the
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
of the car.)
6. The
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
confirmed the scope of the work, inspected the work area, confirmed the estimated time and once again made sure that I was aware of the pricing up front.
7.The
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
knew what to do and did it effectively and efficiently. It was really fun just watching him knock it out, almost like it was choreographed. They say that pros make it look easy, this guy made it look dead
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. (I know from personal experience it was not easy at all when you have a steep roof, that's why I hired them in the first place, that and I am getting old.)
8. He would have cleaned up at the end but I stopped him as he had done quite enough on such a hot day and because I figured that I could do the cleaning myself.)
9. When he completed the work he thanked me for the opportunity to work on my project and said that he would be happy to assist me in any future projects.
10. The company sent me my receipt by email and thanked me for my business.
Honest, friendly, polite, professional, experienced, knowledgeable, trustworthy, hard working, and not over priced. Yup! I recommend them.

- Christian W.
B

Rating
They have a minimum fee of $475 for all jobs. My job was not quite $475 so I had to pay the minimum. This is archaic but I paid it so obviously, I am feeding the monster.
The crew arrived almost an hour late, despite knowing their work preceded a window installation project and would impact the other contractor. Stuff happens - they said they got stuck in traffic. This is Columbus, OH, not New
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
City. I am amazed when, often, contractors arrive late and blame it on traffic. I go to work everyday, and I arrive on time because I plan for .... traffic. While attempting to pull their large box truck up to the
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
in front of my house, the crew shaved off a large branch of my neighbor's tree. I had to yell for them to stop or the damage would have been a lot worse. Ultimately, they had to ask the window installers to move their truck from that spot - after asking ME to negotiate with that crew, for them.
Thankfully, the window installers, who had already begun, agreed to move their truck, then stepped aside and waited for the insulation to be installed. At one point, a supervisor showed up on site and did not introduce himself to me. I had to ask him, as he wandered around my patio, if I could help him, and who was he? He eventually gave me his name but seemed disinterested in communicating with anyone other than his crew. Nice attempt at quality control but a bit of a blunder on customer service.
After the insulation was in, the crew got ready to leave, without cleaning up the mess they made while drilling holes in my cedar and blowing insulation into the walls. I asked, "Do you guys clean this up?", they replied, "Not usually." So I asked them to do so today. They then had to ask the window installers to borrow their shop vac to remove the debris strewn all over my porch. When it came time to pay the bill, they doubled the price. I laughed and said, "Nice try." Additional unfunny comments followed to which I did not reply.
Overall, work seemed fine. Not the most comforting experience with a contractor I've had this summer.
- KATHLEEN D.
A

Rating
Last year we discovered that the sill and backboard had been damaged by termites.
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
jacked up the house and installed the new sill and backboard. At the same time we had them install Cleanspace, a plastic covering in our crawl space to keep the basement cleaner and prevent varmints from coming in the house. We were very happy with the estimate, and the services.
- Ronald S.
A

Rating
Very professional, first visit provided inspection, review, options, recommendations. Cost options sent via email promptly. Pricing was reasonable. Was able to schedule quickly. Crew courteous, professional, took care to minimize disruption, dust. Would definitely highly recommend.
- Charles Y.
A

Rating
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came to our 124 year old row home and evaluated both HVAC systems and made recommendations as to how to heat/cool our home more efficiently and effectively. Even though we are out of his service area, he gave us great recommendations as to how to keep our 3rd floor cooler in the summer and keep parts of our home warmer in the winter. And there was NOTHING in it for him as he cannot do the work/implement the solutions as we are not in his area. Very, very pleased that we got such great advice and recommendations from an expert in the field for FREE. Highly recommend.
- MIMI M.
A

Rating
He was friendly, on time, did more than expected and insulated our attic hatch, was extremely pleasant and easy to work with and gave a fair quote on the phone simply based on our square footage. Very good and affordable. I could not have done it myself for less.
- David W.
A

Rating
Perfectly. We were very appreciate of
Hartselle Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's expertise in locating gaps in our attic area where we were losing heat, and explaining the situation and how he would address it. Clean-up was also 100%.
- Carl H.
N

Rating
They came first to look over the house prior to doing the work. Did the job. They were very professional and on time in each case. They are a very trustworthy company. Very happy I went with them.
- Rachelle L.

Insulation Contractors in Hartselle, AL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AAA PEST CONTROL CORPORATION

P.O. BOX 94
Huntsville

AFCS

27047 State Highway 79
Trafford

Air Essentials Inc

105 Jetplex Cir
Madison

Alabama Handyman (R)

256 Criscoe Cir
Union Grove

All-Star Contracting Services

800 Arcadia Dr
Huntsville

Allied CrawlSpace Solutions

3158 Highway 20
Decatur

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Azul Painting

2702 Fairacres Road
Huntsville

Coltus Roofing and Construction

405 8th St. NW
Huntsville

Coy's Enterprise

7288 County Road 87
Moulton

Crawlspace Doctor

122 Harwell Lane
Meridianville

CrossTek - Remodeling, Roofing, Realty

7108 Criner Road
Huntsville

Durante Home Exteriors

2512 Commerce Sq W.
Birmingham

Envirosafe

212 Capshaw Rd
Madison

GGC Construction, LLC

6418 Green Meadow Rd. NW
Huntsville

Home Services Paint & Contracting

2812 Hempstead Ave SW
Decatur

Integrity Appliance Services Inc

102 Commerce Cir Ste 5D
Madison

JMS Heating & Cooling

18589 US Highway 31
Cullman

Kelos Services

2919 Holiday Dr SW
Huntsville

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd.

Legacy Southern Homes, LLC

461 Capshaw Rd
Madison

Lowe's

10050 Memorial Pkwy SW
Huntsville

Marlow's Home Repair

5014 Iona St.
Huntsville

Master Built Construction

2130 Merridian St NW
Huntsville

Morgan Drywall & Painting

PO Box 376
Capshaw

MOTLEY CREW

256 Craze Rd.
Hartselle

Norrell Service Experts

7291 Cottage Hill Rd
Mobile

North Alabama Builders

311 CR 1387
Vinemont

Onontap Drywall

18363 Upland Trl
Athens

Pinnalce Home Improvements

2007 Milam Ave
Huntsville

Primeland Construction Company

207 North Franklin Avenue

Quality Roofing LLC

103 Slack Water Ct
Huntsville

RetroFoam of Alabama

7002 Lynnfield Drive SE
Owens Cross Roads

Shattuck Inc

2500 Roland Rd
Huntsville

Smith Construction & Remodeling

3599 Hulaco Rd.
Joppa

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

SPARKY SMITH GENERAL CONTRS

312 PALMER RD
Madison

Stephen Pate Construction Company Inc.

2114 Central Parkway
Decatur

Terminix

117 Jetplex Cir
Madison

Titan Roofing & Construction

1892 Jeff Rd
Huntsville

Valley Heating & Cooling

3422 Hooper Lane SE
Decatur

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weather Guard Lifetime Metal Roofing

1861 Alton Rd
Birmingham

Yellowhammer Roofing Inc

22923 US Hwy 72 East
Athens

Zen Windows Of Alabama

46615 U.S. HWY 280
Sylacauga

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