Waterproofing the basement- The solutions offered by your employee, Danny, are listed below. Bold print refers to later recommendations by plumber and City employee I called in to advise. Red print indicates problem areas. · Stucco the foundation outside · Concrete for waterproofing as needed (Pour concrete outside the house 24 inches at the base of the house (underground) to seal the brick foundation. Pour concrete inside the basement also to seal the bricks and add two rows of rebar for reinforcement inside and outside. Problem: the concrete was over- poured about 6 inches above the ground creating an undesirable ?curb? appearance on one corner of the house. Should have been no more than 1-2 inches above ground maximum. I spoke to Julio before the concrete was poured into the trench and advised that it was not 24 inches deep and needed to be dug deeper. He said that he was not finished yet but that he would ensure that it was 24 inches deep. This absolutely takes away from the integrity of the 1903 house design that I was working to maintain. · Fill in holes (in brick walls) inside (Agreed to enclose in concrete instead) · Add trench and fill · Replace bricks as needed and refill mortar (Agreed to cover bricks in concrete instead) · Stucco complete [walls] and concrete with wire mesh, stucco and paint (Stucco with wire mesh and painted only the two walls facing outside. Problem: No stucco or concrete was placed on the remaining 2 side walls. After tearing out the old walls, it was learned that the previous walls were made of ply wood. So, before they could reinstall proper new walls, new posts and footings needed to be installed where none existed. Poor paint job provided. Julio said that he ran out of paint. The gray color of the concrete bleeds through and can still be seen. · Drywall complete ceiling and paint · Build concrete step · Place 2/4 over front door to support existing beam · Fabricate rubber flaps to add to the bottom and top of the basement door to prevent water from pouring in through the door. Sealed openings with silicone where possible. Problem: Open spaces still exist at the top of the basement door where water can penetrate. · Filled in missing stucco at corners of the house. Problem: the filled areas are not straight but are mis-shaped and poke outward. Work inside the house was as follows: · Frame in new beams support as needed · Drywall ceiling as needed and paint ceiling · Sidewalls, fix cracks Problem: all cracks were not ?fixed? they were painted over so the cracked ?veins? (bulges) still exist. Also noted were paint drips, and uneven surfaces, other painted over items were curtain fixtures, drawer knobs etc. Note: Julio cleaned off the drawer knobs but he shouldn?t have had to spend time doing this. A fireplace brick was lost. No one advised that the brick was lost and when I discovered it, Julio went looking but was only able to find ½ of the missing brick in the trash outside. To resolve the lost brick, ?Danny? assured me that they would find a brick to match and if unable to find a match, they would replace that section of the fireplace to my satisfaction matching the existing fireplace bricks. I reported all of this to ?Danny? and was told that to fix the cracks in the walls they would have to do the same process that they had done on the ceiling. They were not going to do that. As a customer, when the contract said ?fix cracks? I understood it to mean that they would do whatever process was necessary to smooth out the cracks in the walls and as professionals, they would also smooth out all paint drips, and fill in any divots or holes prior to painting. · Entry way, living room, dining room and paint off white (satin) · Good fellas to provide all labor and materials Further concerns: 1) The project was to begin first thing Monday morning, July 30 2012. It did not actually start until the next day (Tuesday). We did not get input from your plumber until Wednesday, August 1, 2012 with recommendations as to how to waterproof the basement. His solution was to create a drain, attach a drainage pipe and pump the water away from the basement entrance. Good information however, it would cost at least $3,000 more. We needed to hear from your plumber BEFORE the waterproofing project began. So, we could totally fix the problem. I would have chosen to do the complete water proofing project vs. some other non-essential work. a. I had to call in someone who regularly handled waterproofing on Tuesday. He gave advice re: cement and rebar placement and drainage. Your plumber should have been called in at the beginning of the project for advice. b. I spoke to Danny on several occasions during the project when problems arose. After hearing from your plumber, I requested that we do a change to the contract to put in the drainage work and take out some other work that was not so critical. Danny advised me that he was not able to ?swap? out or do a change order to the existing contract to incorporate the recommended drainage process?too complicated. I notice that the contract did make provisions for ?change orders?. IDEAL SOLUTION FOR PROBLEM AREAS (defective installation) 1) Minimize the ?curb? to 2 inches above ground. 2) Install basement walls, stucco and paint as planned or replace the plywood walls. 3) Do a good paint job on the concrete. Put on a second coat of paint. 4) Cover existing openings on basement door with rubber facing 5) Straighten out stucco on corners of the house 6) Repair cracks, paint drips in the walls and paint 7) Locate or fabricate a fireplace brick that matches the missing one.