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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Seattle


Great, very efficient love he had confidence. He was young but a Veteran and a local guy. Loved the experience.
Mentioned since my kitchen is original I was looking for a soldi plumbing company I could use for the remodel. THey are definitely someone I will consider using.

+ very good at listening to us regarding the list of work for the project
+ removal of old piping, dishwasher, utility sink was excellent and complete, no signs of damage to house framing
+ drywall was cut neatly for easy repair, all thru-wall access was done in closets
+ the repiping is beautiful, up to code, and all of the details ...More were covered
piping is nicely routed (with new shortest routes for hot water)
quality PEX, valves and fittings
drywall nail guards used where necessary
everything is anchored nicely with no pipe chatter or water hammering noise anywhere
+ they cleaned up at end of every day, and kept us in the loop about progress
+ they handled all interactions with the city where necessary
+ the cost of work done closely matched the estimate
+ they accommodated new requests at reasonable price, and were very patient with our questions along the way
+ the final cost was completely reasonable
is a true craftsman, hiring a contractor does not get any better than this!
We are really happy with the project and we highly recommend , 5 out of 5 stars
- Brian K.

I was very pleased to have them come within about an hour of my call. The servicemen (3 total: one to diagnose and 2 to jet) were all pleasant and got the job done quickly. My only complaint is regarding the angie's list 10% off service coupon. The first guy to come out and diagnose said that his boss insisted I have a print out of the coupon ...More in order to get the discount and that payment was due upon completion of service. I had told the customer service person on the phone I was an angie's list member and she said she would take care of it. Certainly it does say on the coupon to print it out, but a reminder from the customer service person on the phone would have been great. It took me telling the serviceman that if his boss wanted my further business - the expensive jetting job that I had scheduled for an hour later- he would have to allow me until that later appointment to get the coupon printed. Once I said that, they acquiesced and let me pay for both the diagnostic and jetting at once with the 10% discount. Hence, I only had to run to the copy shop and print out one copy. I did greatly appreciate that. Having to print out the coupon and physically hand it to the serviceman when he collected my check seemed ridiculous, however, considering that all of the billing, receipts, etc, were done by him electronically. I have no physical receipt myself, only electronic!. This is not so much a complaint against as it is with this general about angie's list coupons needing to be printed out. There must be a more efficient - electronic - way to help members get their discounts.
- Sunny P.

We got 's name from our daughter-in-law, who had been very pleased with the work that had done for her. When we contacted , he was very quick to come to our condo and very quick in getting an estimate to us. We had gotten an estimate from another plumber so we knew that ...More 's bid was a reasonable one. Once we accepted the bid the work was done quickly and very professionally. While we hope we won't have to, we would certainly use again should the need arise.
- Donald D.

Came home on a Sunday after a trip to discover that our sewer pipe was blocked; called Monday morning; by 9 am they had come, diagnosed the problem, cleaned the drain out, and gave us tips on preventing future problems; the work also came with a 3 month guarantee. Very pleasant and professional. We would definitely use them ...More again without any hesitation.
- Carl J.

came out within 30 minutes of our call. He was super friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. I could not be happier! Will call and Sewer and Rooter again in a heartbeat.
- Lauren M.

Cleared both clogged lines. Worked efficiently and effectively.
I called around 10 on Monday morning, afraid they'd be too booked with weekend emergencies to make the "this afternoon" time frame, but he arrived at noon sharp! Went right to work, rooted (if that's what you call it) out 100 feet, got some roots, and cleared the ...More lines. No big mess, just a bit of water on the basement floor under one of the access holes. Since he did hit some roots, he suggested someone to call who could send out a camera to inspect the line, but no urgency. Also recommended using an enzymatic kind of drain cleaner, to keep the lines clear. No sales push to dig up the yard and do a complete overhaul!
I've used them years ago. If it backs up again, I'll remember to call them earlier.
- Mardie H.

Great. They recommended lining the old pipes and will follow with quote and also call next year with reminder.
- Darcy P.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Seattle

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

206 Plumbing LLC

5706 17th Ave NW

24/7 Electric & Plumbing

11637 NE 112th St

24/7 Plumbers in Tacoma

7515 Portland Ave

411 Plumber Inc

PO Box 82634

A Advanced Septic

2518 East Valley HWY E

A+ Sewer Technologies

900 Meridian E STE 19-193

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW

A-1 Steve Landscaping & Rockery Inc

9217 South 220th Lane

AA Plumbing & Drain Team Inc

13110 NE 177th Pl

AA Plumbing LLC

10924 36th ave se

AAA Renovation Pros LLC

3201 SW Avalon Way #41

Aardvark Rooter Inc

3420 C St NE

Aces Four Construction

18008 Bellflower Rd

Acqua Plumbing

15508 38th ave east

Adam's Plumbing & Fire Systems

14325 84th St. Northeast
Lake Stevens

Affordable Plumbing Services

940 Homestead Dr

Affortable West Coast Plumbing

PO Box 26061
Federal Way

Akers Outdoor Plumbing Inc

126 SW 148th St

Alki Construction LLC

4101 SW 106th St

All Aspects Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

22987 Marine View Dr S

All Degrees Plumbing

PO Box 731341


13026 - 4th Ave W

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E

All West Construction

9109 58th Ave

Allied Waterproofing & Drainage, Inc.

4231 S. 3rd Avenue

America's Pride Home Services

23201 126th Ave E

American Sewer Corporation

8822 196TH ST NE

Apollo Plumbing

12404 E Gibson Rd

Aristo Mechanical Co

2612 50th Ave SW

ASK Duct Services

11847 124th Ave NE

Atoms Sewer and Drain

PO Box 88563

Aurora Plumbing & Electric Supply

14330 Aurora Ave N

B.A.D. Inc

24303 59th Ave W
Mountlake Terrace

Best Choice Plumbing, inc.

4306 East C Street

Best Plumbing

4129 Stone Way N


4320 128TH ST E

Bob Oates Plumbing, Sewer, & Rooter LLC

600 W Nickerson Street

Bobby T's Plumbing Inc

2346 N 193rd St

Bobcat Plumbing Co

2102 109th St South


6009 212th St SW

Bogman Construction Services

2400 NW 80th St

Boss Builder

17728 3rd Ave. KPN
Lake Bay

Brent's Septic

1237 52nd St. NE

Brother's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 2136

BTG General Contracting

Veteran Owned

Butterfield Plumbing

800 5th Ave


15027 130TH AVE SE

C Les Plumbing LLC

20328 SE 248th St
Maple Valley

Cahill's Plumbing & Heating

23313 208th Ave
Maple Valley

Capitol Hill Handyman

310 23rd Ave E

Cascade Service Solutions LLC

P.O. Box 327

Chris's Plumbing

1402 auburn way N

cjs plumbing llc

1828 112th st e #j

Clean Septic Pumping LLC

PO Box 997

Clean-N-Rooter LLC

PO Box 709

Collier Plumber Inc

10814 5th Ave S

Collins Plumbing Co

6869 Chico Way NW

Crawl Space Solutions

8118 Stinson Ave
Gig Harbor

Crown Hill Plumbing

8744 18th Ave NW

Crown Plumbing

20210 156th Ave NE

D&D services (253) 507-8149

7523 157th st E

Dakasi PMC

2701 45Th Ave SW

Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating Inc

16614 13th Ave W

Done Right Plumbing & Sewer Repair

316 NE 191st St

DP Palmer Painting & Restoration

9773 Arrowsmith Ave S


PO Box 656

Drain Pro Plumbing Inc

12219 Military Rd S

Drain Tech

902 N 149th St


24022 248th Ave SE
Maple Valley

E R Elite Remodeling LLC

2011 Adams Ave

Economy Septic Svc

PO Box 731292

Ed's Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

PO BOX 69101

Emerald City Plumbing and Sewer LLC

14424 41st Ave S

Erik D Plumber LLC

6229 NE 198th Street

Evan Conklin Plumbing & Heating Inc

3432 11th Ave West

Fischer Plumbing


Fischer Plumbing


Fischer Plumbing

14320 Northeast 21st Street

Fischer Plumbing & Heating

1115 NW 51st St

Fix the World

pobox 822795

Forest Ridge Plumbing Co, LLC

19724 Jewell Rd

Forrest & Forrest Construction Services

9353 Skylark Ct
Joint Base Lewis Mcchord

Fox Plumbing & Heating

7501 2nd Ave S


1935 NW 99TH ST

Gary's Pipelining and Drain Cleaning

9558 Greenwood Ave. N.#304

Gene Johnson Plumbing & Heating

10011 Greenwood Ave N

Global Plumbing

20216 108th Ave SE



Gordon Tripp Construction, Inc

P.O. Box 607

Green Planet Plumbing

2701 California Ave SW # 224

Green T Plumbing

4248 S Spencer St

Greenlake Sewer & Drain

2710 W Manor PL

Handyman to the rescue

16719 Corliss Ave N

Hans Plumbing

17506 Ashworth Ave N


301 Wallace Kneeland Blvd

Holmstad's Plumbing Inc

PO BOX 5635


19626 133rd Ave SE

Honorable Mention Construction

45119 284th Ave SE

Hubers Plumbing Co

3702 West Valley Hwy N

Hunt's Plumbing and Heating

6225 4th St NE

Hydro Plumbing L.L.C.

3620 Sw Juneau St

I Need a Plumber Now

19612 70th ave s

Ian's Home Improvement

1522 NE 105th St


3021 SW Bradford Street

J and K Plumbing Inc

34127 183rd Ave SE

Jack Of All Trades LLC

8403 locust ave e


PO Box 55204

JB Kirkman and sons inc.

Mountlake Terrace


PO BOX 80361

Jim Dandy Sewer & Plumbing

903 N. 128th Street

Joe the plumber

17011 34th Ave S.

Joe's Plumbing Co

3045 NW 56th St Apt 5

John's Plumbing & Pumps, Inc

4715 Lacey Blvd SE

Jon Kelly

412 S. Lafayette Street

K9 Clubhouse

12803 195th Place SE

Kelpman Construction

PO Box 881320

Kettel and co. LLC

2103 summit lake shore rd nw

King Mechanical

11004 Cornell Ave S


1427 N 49TH ST

Leak Masters

408 McGraw St

Level Of Comfort Plumbing

2268 14th Ave W

LKMC Enterprises

304 Industrial Dr SE

Lumpy The Plumber

2315 54th Ave SW Suite B

M & J Handyman Services, LLC

P.O. Box 1311

Matt the Plumber

814 S 308th St
Federal Way

Merazas Sewer Services LLC

6830 NE Bothell


3635 Thorndyke Ave W


PO Box 1215
Lake Stevens

Mitchel Plumbing Co.

1602 Center St

MJO Homes llc.

5723 203rd st sw

Mr Rooter of Seattle

2000 S 116th St

Mr. Handyman of SE Bellevue

13300 SE 30th St

My Buddy Dave The Plumber

337 NE 120th St

My PHD Services Inc

3501 S 38 St. Box 41

nationwide construction & renovation

1919 196th St SW Unit 4

New Concepts Plumbing Inc

1726 NE 24th St

New Dimensions Construction

7945 45th Ave S

North Pacific Home Repair & Remodel, LLC

6826 Greenwood Avenue N

North Sound Plumbing

6459 NE 186th St


23106 59TH AVE W
Mountlake Terrace

NW Plumbing Connection Inc

5408 N 23rd St

Nw Sewer & Drain

PO BOX 55573

O'brien Plumbing

3100 W Government Way

O'Neill Plumbing

6056 California Ave SW

Pacific Plumbing LLC

11725 SE 192nd Street

Pacific West Construction & Maintenance LLC

3240 15th Ave W Ste11

Paradise Environmental Plumbing

3518 Fremont Ave N

Paris Plumbing Inc

11535 15th Ave NE

Perez Plumbing Inc

19232 SE 269th Street

Pinky's Plumbing

p.o.box 68133

Pioneer Plumbing & Heating

6747 15th Ave NE

Pipe Guys

10741 A st So.

Pipe Pro Plumbing LLC

22707 115th St Ct E
Bonney Lake

Plumbers in Seattle

5847 16th Ave S

Plumbing By Mario

PO BOX 326

Price Busters Plumbing

3212 NE 167th St

Protocol Plumbing & Sewer

917 110th Pl SE

Rapid Rooter Inc

902 2nd Ave N

Raymark Plumbing & Sewer

10710 Lake City Way NE

RBoyd Professional Services

24003 Fisk RD E

Red Anchor Plumbing, LLC

4570 Avery Lane Suite C Box H

Reliable Handyman

708 Hilltop Ave

Remedy Rooter

6339 42nd ave sw

Remington Services

PO BOX 12436

Repipe Specialists of Washington Inc

100 Andover Park West

Rescue Rooter Seattle - 9226

175A Roy Rd SW

Resolute Plumbing and Heating

14121 30th Ave SE
Mill Creek


19535 14TH AVE NE


2551 Albatross Way

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1130 140th Ave NE

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

10655 Tukwila International Blvd

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

4200 196th Street

Rush Plumbing, Inc

PO Box 80962

Scalise Renovations

112th & Canyon Road

Sea-King Sewer & Rooter

8712 1st Ave NW

Seattle Handyman Services

1409 NW 60th St

Seattle Pipeworks

30701 229th Place SE
Black Diamond

Seattle Plumber

800 5th Ave

Seattle Plumbing and Sewer Repair

3620 sw juneau

Seattle Select LLC

PO Box 285

Seattle Service Plumber

815 1st Ave

Shenandoah Company

29641 196th Ave SE

Simple Plumber, LLC

8439 24th Ave SW



Sound Bulkhead & Sound Rock Products

2244 Marine View Dr

Sound Plumbing and Heating

17826 29th Dr SE

South County Plumbing

18069 76th Ave W #E

Spartan Services, Inc

760 107th St S

Spencer Home Solutions LLC

7818 201st St SW

Splash Marine Services

1201 millcreek blvd


PO BOX 30563

State Plumbing

Federal Way

Stellar Plumbing

15305 NE 18th St

Sterling Plumbing and Fire Safety

1537 NW Ballard Way

Steve's Plumbing Inc

2125 196th St SW

Strictly Sewers Inc

2081 Cliffside Ter
Camano Island

Summerfield Construction

3055 112th Ave NE

Summit Mechanical

24801 208th Ave SE
Maple Valley

Sunrise Contracting LLC

P.O. Box 11147

Taisey Design and Construction

3703 288th St NW

The Drain Doctors

13300 Bothell-Everett Hwy

The Pipe Dr

12345 Lake City Way NE

The QM Team

3323 SW 344th St
Federal Way

Three Guys Concrete LLC

7905 Detroit Ave SW

Topgun Plumbing LLC

131 Winesap Rd

Topline Plumbing LLC

13110 ne 177th pl pmb 316

TSCO Plumbing

8438 24th Ave SW

Vortex Plumbing Inc

9620 S 242nd Ct

WA Remodeling Inc

12823 Lost Lake Rd

Wallingford Plumbing LLC

416 NE 43rd St

Washington Plumbing and Heating Inc

12819 SE 38th St

Watson Contracting LLC

PO Box 862

Watts Heating & Cooling

580 Portland Ave

WeHoneyDo.com Service Companies

10035 Main St

Welch Handyman Service

400 SW 175th Place

Werner Specialties, LLC

945 NW 56th Street

West Seattle Sewer & Drain

10825 34th Ave SW

Wezee's Plumbing Inc

1526 NW 59th St

White Knight Plumbing

1410 Central St SE

Winners In-C

906 N Sheridan Avenue

Worx Plumbing and Heating, LLC

2041 S 134th ST

Zoltan the Plumber

13855 38th Ave S

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