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Insulation Contractors to Avoid

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A
"Cliff the company owner inspected the attic and under the house. He advised me the insulation in the attic was inefficient, the old insulation needed to be removed" and a radiant installed, the HVAC ducts needed to needed new R8 insulation, and new R38 insulation. He also went under the house where there was no insulation. He advised we install R19 insulation and a radiant which will also hold the insulation from falling down. He also advised to install a moisture . The reason we ask for the inspection, the ac was not cooling the house without running constantly. we called our home warranty r cas needed to has not

-Bill B.

A
"These guys were responsive to my calls and emails. They set up a time to give a quote and arrived on time. The quote followed the next day. I set up a time for them" to do half of the work and they arrived on time with everything to complete the job in a day. Rich is a knowledgeable contractor and has a crew of hard working guys. I'd recommend them to anyone for similar work.

-Kenneth A.

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Local Articles in Sacramento

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

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Insulation reviews in Sacramento

A

Rating
The team at Insulation Pros handled our job quickly and with care. They provided an estimate and a when I approved the work, they scheduled and appointment quickly. The crew showed up to do the job in a timely fashion and worked hard all day until I was satisfied with the work they performed. has changed how our house feels ...More during extremely hot days. I would definitely use this company on future projects.
- Donna S.
A

Rating
First of all, I'd like to thank for being so patient and understanding with my scheduling issues, which I really appreciated. Rich and arrived promptly on the scheduled date and got right to work. They protected the floors with canvas, and removed the mirrored closet doors for access to the attic, ...More taking care of my home. They did a great job of being thorough with the attic sealing, an obviously critical step. Then once they got to blowing in , they became a well-oiled machine, switching off between who was up in the hot attic blowing in, and who was outside feeding the into the machine. Friendly, cordial, competent, diligent - a first-rate operation. I'd recommend them to anyone in a heartbeat.
- Dianne C.
A

Rating
Excellent service. However, I was not told in advance of the service that I would have to pay by check. While an explanation was given by the provider, it was an inconvenience for me since the amount was in excess of $800.
- pamela H.
A

Rating
It is really nice to have work done by a family owned company. gave me a super fair quote and he also did the work. These days this is a rarity. In most cases you discuss the work with an estimator and then a crew shows up that doesn't know what is going on. This is not the case with and his crew ...More at . They showed up on short notice, on-time and did a fantastic job! They were professional, knowledgeable and worked quickly. They even insulated my recessed lights so that there wouldn't be excess heat loss. A lot of other insulation companies didn't even know anything about recessed light insulation. After they were finished, the difference was noticeable immediately. No drafts, no heater constantly clicking on a off struggling to keep a constant temperature. I work in the energy efficiency industry so I know good work when I see it. My attic is clean, sealed, and insulated to perfection. I highly recommend Insulation Pros!
- Jacqui G.
A

Rating
I interacted with , , and throughout the entire process--initial contact, assessment, and installation. , measured and conducted the initial inspection. , takes care of all office details and he provided the quote via email. ...More (owner) then called to schedule the work and the product and my expectations. lead his team during the installation process and he was in the attic sealing all attic-air-gaps and leading his installation team. sealed all attic gaps—around ducts,light canisters, and ceiling fans—prior to blowing . They werequite a professional team. I really appreciated that took the
time to explain all of my options. I amvery happy with their work. My home’s
14’ ceilings holds the heat in—nice and warm. I highly recommend to family, friends, and neighbors.

- Maria D.
A

Rating
We were really impressed with the installers ( and ). Both installers were very professional, cheerful, courteous, and prompt, if they were not able to make their scheduled time, we were given a call as to when to expect them.
NOTE 2000 The same Service's Installed ...More dual pane windows for our entire home.

- ronald G.
A

Rating
I chose this company because I used them for my attic in 2011 and was very pleased with the results. They told me with the walls I would probably not notice a huge difference. The temperature through the house now seems more even.
- Lina B.
A

Rating
I moved in to this 40-year old two-story condo last summer. I was surprised at how how hot the upstairs rooms got durng the summer, and how cold they got during the first winter in spite of the double-paned windows.
I picked up a brochure for and other companies at the local Home & Garden show. After considering quoted ...More prices, Angie's List discounts, and reviews, I chose .
The estimator came out and inspected the attic and interviewed me as to my heating and A/C use. He then recommended the blown-in "Stabilized Borate Cellulose" insulation to being my old existing insulation up to current recommended standards.
Two weeks later the crew of two arrived on time, surveyed the work area, and then started bringing in their equipment and dragged the long blower hose through the upstairs window. When ready, they started the blower (which is noisy even though it is outside) and began to fill the attic. After about an hour, they were done and started packing up to leave. But they did clean up after themselves, both inside and out, before they left.
Afterwards, the upstairs rooms were able to hold their temperature much better than before.
- Paul B.

Insulation Contractors in Sacramento

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Construction Services,Inc

3362 Monier Cir
Rancho Cordova

Aaron Plumbing

Po Box 2657
Vacaville

Abreu Enterprises

2320 Laramie Ln

Advanced Smart Solutions

P.O. Box 6015
Auburn

Affordable Insulation

5901 Rosebud Ln
Sacramento

Air Tech HVAC Inc

2885 Mosquito Rd
Placerville

Air Tek Home Performance

PO Box 25
Wilton

Airsmiths Heating-Cooling-Insulation

4101 Garden Hwy
Sacramento

Alcal Home Services Division

946 N Market Blvd.
Sacramento

Alex Engardt Roofing & Siding Co.

7700 14th Avenue
Sacramento

All Phase Construction

2023 Polley Dr
Roseville

ALL YEAR HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING

801 Plaza Avenue
Sacramento

Allstate Roofing

2264 Fair Oaks Blvd
Sacramento

Alpha II Omega Construction

10151 Kuhn Ranch Way
Elk Grove

Altec Construction, Inc

4219 S Market Ct
Sacramento

America's Advantage Remodeling

8167 Alpine Ave Ste A
Sacramento

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Angels Handyman Service

4748 16th Ave.
Sacramento

Anthony Graves Construction Inc

6045 Kenneth Ave
Carmichael

Atlantis Roofing Inc

4108 36th St
Sacramento

ATLAS SPECIALTIES CORP

4337 ASTORIA ST
Sacramento

Bennett Building Company

2701 Del Paso Rd #130-201
Sacramento

Betlan Construction

PO Box 1134
Pine Grove

Beutler Air Conditioning and Plumbing

855 National Drive
Sacramento

Bier Construction

18824 Sugar Pine Dr.
Twain Harte

bigg'n construction

4241 custis ave
Sacramento

Bill Reed Handyman Service

21000 Old River Road
West Sacramento

Bowerbird Remodeling

2418 overhill
Davis

Brazil Quality Construction

3871 Security Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

Brazil Quality Roofing Inc

3871 Security Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

breeze mechanical

5406 Silver Poplar Ln
Elk Grove

Brian Faricy

904 Tanner Ct
Folsom

Bronco Plumbing Heating and Air

5832 W 4th St
Rio Linda

Brothers Home Improvement Inc

4205 Cincinnati Ave Ste 300
Rocklin

Brower Mechanical Inc

4060 Alvis Ct
Rocklin

BW Maintenance & Remodeing

PO Box 1455
Yuba City

C C Construction

4054 Coratina Wy

CABS Heating & Air Conditioning

3346 Jefferson Blvd
West Sacramento

Cal-Vintage Roofing Co Inc

11257 Coloma Rd
Gold River

California Energy Consultant Service

11367 Trade Center Dr
Rancho Cordova

California Energy Services

4905 Golden Foothill Pkwy
El Dorado Hills

Capital Insulation

721 N. B St
Sacramento

Capitol City Contractors

3429 Freedom Park Dr
North Highlands

Charles E. Schoff & Co.

9336 Caltrop Court
Fair Oaks

CHERRY HOME IMPROVEMENT

4523 HARLIN DR
Sacramento

Clarke & Rush

4411 Auburn Blvd
Sacramento

Colony Construction

7925 Butte Avenue
Sacramento

Comfort City Inc

9941 Horn Rd Ste J
Sacramento

Construction Services

3844 Centinella dr.
North Highlands

Cost-U-Less Construction

6912 Treelark Way

Custom Development od California

11230 Gold Experss Dr.
Gold River Dr.

dahlquist construction

PO Box 720441
Pinon Hills

David W. Hoppe Construction Inc.

4560 Bailey Way
Sacramento

DELTA BAY CONSTRUCTION & ROOFING INC.

8900 Thornton Rd #8
Stockton

DIAL ONE METRO ENERGY INSULATION

5640 ROSEVILLE RD
Sacramento

Diamond Construction

PO Box 1661
Diamond Springs

DS Improvements

6800 Sugar Maple Way
Citrus Heights

Eagle Shield Inc

4115 Blackhawks Cir
Danville

East Sacramento Home Repair

864 49th St
Sacramento

EcoAttics Energy Saving Solutions

970 Reserve Dr
Roseville

ejconstructioncompany

PO Box 657
Galt

EL DORADO BUILDERS EXCHANGE

3430 ROBIN LN
Shingle Springs

ENGEL INSULATION INC

460 ROSEVILLE RD
Roseville

F RODGERS INSULATION INTERIORS

1420 ENTERPRISE BLVD
West Sacramento

Ferguson Drywall

6381 Pine Zette Ln
Placerville

Five Star Performance Insulation

PO Box 292964
Sacramento

Future Energy Savers

9721 Kent Street
Elk Grove

Gaines Home Improvement

13027 Ivie Road
Herald

Gallaghers Plumbing, Heating & Air Inc.

7808 Highway 99 E
Los Molinos

Gearhart Construction Inc

PO BOX 1294
Antelope

Gilmore Heating & Air

4429 Missouri Flat Rd
Placerville

GOLD RIVER CONSTRUCTION

1807 STARBUCK RD
Rescue

GOLD STAR INSULATION

210 N. 10th Street
Sacramento

Goldstar Insulation - Sacramento

210 North 10th Street
Sacramento

Green Choice Living

1007 W Grove Ave Ste E
Orange

Greg Todd Construction & Home Repairs

9530 Beacon Ave.
Orangevale

H F SCHWARTZ BUILDERS

3941 PARK DR
El Dorado Hills

Hall's Window Center

11297 White Rock Rd
Rancho Cordova

Handyman Services

2526 Ganzan Way
Rancho Cordova

Handyman Services

2029 Benita Way
Rancho Cordova

Hawkins Exteriors

1257 Hassett Ave
Yuba City

HB Urethane Roofing

1037 N MARKET BLVD
Sacramento

HOME DEPOT

4641 FLORIN RD
Sacramento

HOME DEPOT INC

690 RIVERPOINT CT
West Sacramento

HomePRO

5908 Courville Court
Fair Oaks

Honey's Air & Solar

5536 Pirrone Rd
Salida

Huft Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

10103 Iron Rock Way
Elk Grove

INSULRITE INSULATION

7149 SNOWY BIRCH WAY
Sacramento

J M insulation

1234 hassett
Yuba City

J&A Pino Construction

424 42nd st
Sacramento

Jarrod Holbert Roofing

3032 Highgrade Street

JB Construction

3295 Shelby Place
Fairfield

JD SERVICES

4531 788TH ST
Sacramento

JDM Construction

2424 Darwin St.
Sacramento

JOE'S SHEET METAL

5500 Aguilar rd
Rocklin

JR Putman Heating & Air Conditioning

11330 Sunrise Park Dr
Rancho Cordova

K-Designers Inc

2440 Gold River Rd
Rancho Cordova

KingKong construction

2225 62nd Ave
Sacramento

KLEANAIR INSULATION REMOVAL

1657 SILICA AVE
Sacramento

Kleenair Heating & Air Conditioning

1657 Silica Ave
Sacramento

Liberty Construction

3848 Sherbrook Dr.
Santa Rosa

Lingley Enterprises

4218 Technology Drive
Modesto

Lofton Construction

11359 Sunrise Gold Circle

Lovingood Construction Inc.

9474 oak ave
Orangevale

Lowe's

8369 Power Inn Rd
Elk Grove

Lozano Construction

4229 Lozano Lane
Vacaville

Lucent Energy Group

4153 Northgate Blvd Ste 6
Sacramento

Lydon Construction

2920 Arden Way
Sacramento

M. Jones & Son Inc.

PO BOX 276361
Sacramento

Mac's Remodeling

PO Box 1852
Rocklin

Mattox Construction

4520 Oxbow Dr
Sacramento

Maximus Development Inc

3355 Myrtle Ave
North Highlands

Mcdonald Plumbing Heating & Air Inc

3618 Broadway
Sacramento

Meek's Lumber & Hardware

1414 Colusa Hwy
Yuba City

METRO ENERGY INSULATION CO

5640 ROSEVILLE RD
Sacramento

Mo Better Builders

5332 Grant Ave
Carmichael

Monster Contractor

4763 Ravenstone Wy
Sacramento

Mountain Air Energy

770 Marina Park Dr
El Dorado Hills

Mr. Handyman of Arden Arcade

4380 Auburn Blvd
Sacramento

MVV Homes, Inc

10183 Croydon wy, Ste D
Sacramento

NorCal Construction & Development

8297 Gerber Rd
Sacramento

NORDIC AIR MECHANICAL

4054 BERRY RD
Shingle Springs

North American Home Services

4617 Auburn Blvd
Sacramento

Northern California Roofing Co

859 Cotting Court
Vacaville

Nushake Inc

319 S Parallel Ave
Ripon

O'Toole GBC

1224 V street

Old School Construction

1813 Wentworth Ave
Sacramento

Paragon Construction

P.O. Box 981563
West Sacramento

Powers Interior Contracting

4781 Oakhollow Dr
Sacramento

Quality First Home Improvement Inc

6545 Sunrise Blvd
Citrus Heights

quality handyman

1930 wright street #37

RANKIN LYMAN

8987 PRAIRIE TRAIL WY
Sacramento

Ray O Cook Heating & Air

889 Riverside Ave
Roseville

RCI Integrated Construction

PO Box 277964
Sacramento

RCI Integrated Construction

PO Box 277964
Sacramento

Regal Home Improvements

7221 Marblethorpe Way
Roseville

Sacramento Building Performance

5245 Nyoda Way
Carmichael

SACRAMENTO BUILDING PRODUCTS

1600 Raleys Ct Ste 60
West Sacramento

Sargents Plumbing

1852 W 11th St
Tracy

Serve All Contracting

3323 Watt Ave
Sacramento

Service Champions Heating & Air Conditioning

7020 Commerce Drive
Pleasanton

Shaffer Electric

12490 Blake Rd
Wilton

SHEcan2

2646 Waterton Wy
Sacramento

Sierra Building Performance

Aldea Drive
El Dorado Hills

Sierra Pacific Home & Comfort, Inc.

2550 Mercantile Dr
Rancho Cordova

Sierra Valley Home Corp

11476 Elks Cir
Rancho Cordova

Simpson Construction

4105 Ashgrove Way
Sacramento

SJ Construction

Sacramento

Skyline Energy Savers Inc

2611 Highlands Hills Dr
El Dorado Hills

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smith & Jones Heating & Air

PO Box 799
Shingle Springs

Smith's handyman service

10510 Coloma rd
Rancho Cordova

SonRay Service Team

4161 Citrus Avenue
Rocklin

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

South Canyon Construction

5905 Nicolas Rd
Lincoln

Spray Foam Energy Solutions

9616 Elder Creek Road
Sacramento

Sticks & Stones Construction

3304 Cambridge Rd
Shingle Springs

Straight Line Roofing & Construction

4415 Commodity Way
Shingle Springs

Sunleaf

1504 Kathy Way
Lincoln

Synergy Companies

1376 E turner rd #A
Lodi

T&M Mechanical

10056 Calvine Road
Sacramento

The Insulation Pros

8027 Garry Oak Dr
Citrus Heights

The Remodel Guys

5817 Coral Haven Court
Elk Grove

The Rug Bug Inc

4924 Foster Way
Carmichael

TIM LEAKE BUILDER

1106 NORTH D ST
Sacramento

Toltec Construction Co. Inc.

P.O. Box 1524
Lincoln

Tom Yancey Company

7101 Fair Oaks Blvd.
Carmichael

Top notch repair

7840 20th Ave
Sacramento

TruTeam of California, Inc.

1015 N Market Blvd
Sacramento

TSD Construction

942 Trestle Glen Way
Sacramento

Us Energy Savers Inc

9245 Laguna Springs drive

VIKING BUILDERS

2500 Marconi Ave.
Sacramento

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

Yancey Company

8250 Alpine Ave
Sacramento

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