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"The estimator was very nice, however he barely poked his head into the crawlspace in order to give an estimate. Other estimators crawled all around the crawlspace" in order to give estimates, and included photographs in their reports. He was able to provide an estimate immediately using his tablet.

-j W.

" , the owner, was very responsive to my initial request. He worked within my necessary schedule and completed the work on time and to everyone's satisfaction.

-Claude H.

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Local Articles in Richmond

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

water in flooded basement

Floods can damage carpet, flooring, drywall, furniture and clothing — follow these tips for what to do until a pro arrives or for DIY clean up.

contractor in haz-mat suit scraping paint from home exterior

Mold, radon, lead or asbestos may be hiding in your home and making you sick. Learn how to protect yourself.

home health hazard inspector hanging a warning sign on a door

Mold, radon, carbon monoxide, asbestos — learn how to test for these problems at home.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -


Try Clorox Clean Up, light amount of Clorox, easy to use.

Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

Mold Removal reviews in Richmond


- The owner is extremely knowledgable and professional. He has all of the appropriate equipment to complete the job in a very timely manner.
All the work was performed on time and with excellent quality and results. I will let do all of the future work necessary on my home now.
Very satisfied ...More with the professionalism, quality, and integrity of and .
- Jonathan K.

The water leak, which occurred a while ago, is still obvious, because the ceiling damage wasn't well repaired. The first inspector checked to see if the dry wall on the ceiling was dry. He reassured me that it was. I contacted just to be sure, and he found wet linoleum under the water-heater that the other inspector hadn't ...More noticed. He then gave me the documentation that I need to ask the seller to either fix the problem or reduce the price. He did that for FREE, simply because this was a first visit based on Angie's List recommendations! It's pretty extraordinary!
- Jane G.

We discovered that our rental property in had a moldy crawlspace so we set out to get 3-4 different estimates to see what was recommended and how much it was going to cost. What I quickly discovered is that most of the companies we got quotes from did not seem concerned with finding the cause of the problem, merely fixing the ...More issue and hoping it doesn't return. Many of the estimates were not very thorough, which left a lot of questions as to what was actually going to be completed. This was not the case at all with and , in fact he was the exact opposite of all the other quotes we received. From the first time we spoke with him he wanted to address the cause of the problem prior to fixing the problem. This was very reassuring because who wants to spend thousands of dollars to only turn around a few years later and do it again! His knowledge on the subject, professionalism, and better warranty had us leaning in his direction from the beginning. After talking to him on the phone a few times and receiving his extremely detailed inspection report, I began to realize that I had worked with him on a project that my company was working on as well a few years prior. I did not know the name of his company back then but I remember being very impressed by his work and attention to detail on that project (which was a total nightmare, that he resolved). Once I realized that I already knew his quality of work and the fact that we were already leaning in his direction, the issue was settled.
He was extremely prompt once we signed the contract, which was of great relief to my tenant. After the work was completed, he sent me a disc with tons of before and after pictures and everything was just as promised. My tenant is extremely happy with work that was completed and said that it has fixed all the issues. He even gave us a very good price on installing insulation in the floor joists while they were working under there as well, which has come in handy with the cold weather lately. I could go on and on but the bottom line is that we were extremely satisfied/impressed with everything from the beginning to the end. I would not hesitate at all to recommend him to anybody I know. As a matter of fact, I am looking to purchase a new home and I will definitely have him take a look at the property prior to purchasing it.
- Stuart A.

Bill was punctual, professional, and thorough. He explained the background of the company's owner, who grew up with poor indoor air quality. As a result, the owner recommends regular duct cleaning. followed up promptly with a quote for duct cleaning and an EZ Breathe system.
Once duct cleaning was proposed, I wanted ...More to give my HVAC company a to bid on the job since I am quite happy with their services. My HVAC company advised that my ducts were not dusty inside. From what I can tell, some people believe in regular duct cleaning, and others don't. Since my ducts were not dirty, I decided to forego the cleaning.
The EZ Breathe system also has its detractors and proponents online. My primary concern with this system is that it exhausts air from the crawl space, drawing makeup air from the house, which is then made up through cracks in the house. The system was described as drawing only 40 watts of electricity, but I don't like the added cost of conditioning the makeup air after exhausting conditioned air from the house. I have decided to go with a crawl space encapsulation system instead.
Although I decided against the services proposed, I had a good experience with them as professionals and would definitely call them for a quote if I ever needed mold remediation services.
- Melissa B.

They were incredibly responsive on the Friday after Christmas, driving from a job they finished in Williamsburg all the way to that afternoon. They came when they said they would be here, right on time. Explained everything that they had to do, and how long the machines would be set up and run for.
They came back to clean ...More up their machines when they said they would, and the invoice was sent promptly. Additionally they took pictures for our insurance company, and provided copies of those to the adjuster.
It was an excellent experience, and helped make the mistake that I made as easy to get through as possible.
- Trevor G.

Everything in the house was moved and cleaned of mold and dust using an anti-microbial solution that is used in hospitals--floors, walls, furniture front and back, cabinets inside and out, dressers, closets, everything. Extra care was given fragile items--every dish, fine crystal pieces, vases, etc. were washed and dried and returned to cabinets. The ...More team also removed all discarded items and there were plenty as this cleansing also allowed me to purge. The team worked well together and independently. All of the men were terrific as individuals and professionals. I can't say enough good things about this company, I was very pleased. I would highly recommend to anyone with a mold problem in their home. My breathing has improved as a result of their treatment.
- Patricia S.

The job itself went very smoothly, is very professional and his team were in and out without any issues. I thought the price was reasonable, better than other service providers in the area, and the job was done very well. I also found that is extremely knowledgeable and will not take advantage of you. ...More I was worried that there would be a heavy plastic smell, but found none.
- Jennie N.

Contractor visited to provide assessment of crawl and determine of there was a related problem in kitchen flooring. He identified that the problem with the crumbliing tile work on the kitchen floor was not any issue with the underlying floor joists, but a result of poor application of the tile, which he explained and demonstrated in detail. He returned ...More the next day to perform mold remediation in crawl space and arranged to the application of insulation which was done at the time agreed upon.
Overall my experience with was exceptional. I would recommend them without reservation, based on quality of work, price point, integrity, professionalism.
- M Jane M.

Mold Removal Experts in Richmond

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Advanta Clean of Richmond West

8005 Creighton Pkwy

AdvantaClean of the Tri-Cities

3205 Jefferson Davis Hwy.


2829 Terminal Ave



At Ease Home/Environmental Inspections

10908 Courthouse Road Suite 102-216

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.

Building Science, Inc.

8436 Erle Rd

Burgess Inspections, Inc.

530 Southlake Blvd

Capital Home Improvements LLC

2207 Rawlings St

Car Pool Detail LLC

5512 W Broad St

CCK Services LLC

2731 Grantwood Ct.

Commonwealth Environmental Solutions, LLC

10221 Krause Road


Glen Allen

Dodson Bros Exterminating Co Inc

9014 Brook Rd
Glen Allen

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen

DuBose Renovation and Restoration LLC

1015 Borden Road

E Climate Systems Inc.

11612 Wood Bluff Loop
North Chesterfield

EnviroGroup LLC

3407 Floyd Ave

Exterminating Unlimited, Inc.

10979 Leadbetter Rd

Fire Damage Restoration Richmond

2001 Lakeview Ave

Guardian Duct Cleaning

184 N 6th St

H&L Services

606 Roxbery Industrial Ctr
Charles City

Hickman's Termite & Pest Control Inc

2907 Hungary Spring Rd

Home Inspex

PO Box 1864

IQ Construction LLC

2707 Iverson Road

Jas Revolutioin

North Chesterfield

Jenkins Restorations

2102 N. Hamilton St

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

Jewels Inc

1001 N 25th St

Kelley Brothers Construction

2775 doctors rd.9

Kohmar Air Duct Cleaning LLC.

2022 Tacony Drive

Loyal Termite & Pest Control Inc

2610 E Parham Rd

Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive

Michael & Son Svc Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Miller Tyme Roofing and Construction, LLC.

5509 Pony Farm Drive

Moisture and Mold Solutions

10400 Chester Road


2501 Mayes Road

MoldX Inc

PO Box 6046

Nichols Inc.

2361 Greystone Court

O'Berry's Services

2731 Grantwood Ct.

Paramount Builders Inc

12940 Plaza Dr

Paul Davis Restoration of W. Richmond

2119 Dabney Road

Pillar to Post Home Inspections

2540 Pineacre Ct.

Plumbline Construction Company

400a Southlake Blvd

PuroClean Restoration Professionals

2425 W. Deerpath Drive

Quality Home Inspections

28 Paula Maria Dr
Newport News

RBS Services

425 E. Ellerslie Ave
Colonial Heights


2910 Libby Terrace


5102 W Village Green Dr


700 Dawn St

Residential Inspections, Inc.

PO BOX 2098
Colonial Heights

Rob's Restoration

2808 Stanwix Ln

Rolyn Companies

2850 Ansol Lane
Virginia Beach

S.W. Sweat Construction

800 East Broadway

Select Home Solutions

9119 Dickey Drive

Service Master of Richmond Inc

2809 Ackley Ave

Service Team of Professionals

2967 Dragana Dr

SERVPRO of Richmond

523 Branchway Road

SERVPRO of Tri-Cities Plus

12001 Deerhill Road

Shamrock environmental service

200 Maury st

Slocum Contracting

1924 Williamstowne Dr


508 Smoketree Pl

Triangle Sealants Corporation

PO Box 6128

Value Dry Waterproofing

8735 Bollman Place

Virginia Basement

PO Box 244

Virginia Green Lawn Care

7421 Ranco Road

Virginia Powerwash

4060 Greyhound Ct

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive



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