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" was our contact at , and leading up to the job he did a great job of keeping in touch via email and responding promptly" to my questions. When the day came to do the work, his team showed up and got the job done exactly as described. Our neighbors who are in the concrete business even vouched for their professionalism and efficiency. Although we wish we wouldn't have needed to fix the decrepit sewer line, these guys made it an easy process. I highly recommend for this kind of work.

-Andrew F.

"It went great! They were on time, prompt and friendly. is the one that did the work, and came out to inspect it." was really nice and answered all of my questions. Before he left, he clarified how my furnace worked so I could do some of the drainage myself.

-Andrew K.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Minneapolis


Before repairing the line, they inspected the rest of the line twice and recommended that I not get a liner which would have cost another $3-4,000. They said the rest of the line looked in good shape. They were able to save one tree and even replanted it.
They were courteous, fast and clean. I would highly recommend this company!
- Patricia L.

From our initial contact through completion, they were super responsive and helpful. The estimate went smoothly. the work was done on the day promised and it was done quickly. very pleasant to work with and priced very reasonably. we will use in the future!
- Tracy B.

did a great job. My neighbor and I shared the main line. During the permit process we discovered a hook up had been installed at the in the 70's. They detached my line from the shared line and ran all new pipe to the . Also helped me work to get sidewalk replaced. Prices ...More are the most reasonable I have found and work was done perfectly.
- James D.

I was NEVER able to firm up an appointment with Cinchy. They would promise to call me back and never did. I called again and was given some song and dance about they would get back to me. I was getting pretty disgusted at their utter lack of organization, although they have a good reputation for their work, if you can ever get them to come and do ...More the work! Meanwhile, the city cancelled the shut-off and I called Cinchy
I finally got another call from the city saying that I had until the end of September to get the pipe replaced. I made my final call to Cinchy and spoke to or said he would call me back that same day. He never did.
I have since complete given up on Cinchy and I contact 's Sewer to do the work. At this stage, all of the street markings (sewer, water pipe and gas) have been marked and the work is scheduled for to do the repair. This is a heck of a lot further in the process than I could ever get Cinchy to do.
I'm very disappointed with the way they run their company. I'm not suggesting that their work isn't top notch; only I was never able to get that far with them.
- barry M.

Cowardly. They agreed to come out to fix the water line/shut off valve from the street to the house, as the City of Minneapolis had required. They came out the day after a 2-3" rain & called me annoyed because it was too wet & all the sump pumps in the neighborhood were going off constantly. I'm no expert, ...More but was shocked somebody who claims to be would try it on that date. Subsequently just put us off & now has been unresponsive. If the job was too big for his so-called organization he should grow a spine & just say so. this is the weakest thing I've ever come across, which is saying something since 95% of all contractors in MN are disreputable as the day is long. Never, under any circumstances, call this company. Unless you want to agree on something & then be ignored because they found out they're grossly under-qualified to do work they agreed to. the city of Minneapolis gave me their name as one to call. I'm going to call them & make sure they know to no longer recommend this spineless unqualified "plumber."
- Tom B.

I did not have any work performed by this company, but was so impressed with 's knowledge and professionalism that I wanted to write a review anyway. From the sounds of it, he knows quite a bit about his line of work and is willing to provide honest advice.
- Jennifer N.

Everything went very well until recently. I emailed in late winter to ask about scheduling the liner work in the spring. He was not yet scheduling, but offered to email me when he was able to schedule. True to his word, he emailed and set up Wednesday, June 11th for the work.
On June 9th, emailed ...More to let me know they need to reschedule. He could schedule my house anytime after 8th. So basically, I got bumped to the very bottom of the list, so he can wrap up every other appointment booked to date and then get around to my house. That's much later than I wanted this work completed (hence, the email in the winter). Now I seem to be back at square one - having to meet with different companies, get quotes, explain the problem, have them use their own cameras to see the line (probably at a cost to me), etc., etc., etc.
Needless to say I'm pretty disappointed. I thought these plumbing issues would be behind me and I'd never have to think about tree roots again.
- Gail D.

Excellent work, timely response. They unclogged sewer line so I could it could be used until work started. They completed the work in one day. They have a camera to inspect the line and made a DVD so I could see the repairs. The hole was quickly filled and the yard was returned to level. Estimate was exactly what was billed.
- Michael H.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Minneapolis

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

2 4 1 Construction, LLC

4235 5th Ave S

A Aart's & Tim's Quality Plumbing

225 County Road 81

AAA Reick's Landscaping & Waterproofing

4105 31st Ave S

Aeshliman Plumbing Inc

307 Jackson Ave
Elk River

Affordable Sewer and Water

2115 Kestrel Trail

Albrecht Company

1408 W County Road C

All Around

701 Decatur Ave. N

All Exteriors

1540 HWY 65

All Hours Sewer & Drain

5328 Morgan Ave S

All State Companies, Inc.

28494 149th St NW

All Ways Drains Ltd

567 Shoreview Park Rd

American Eagle Plumbing Inc

2703 Constance Blvd NE

American Sewer

9001 Emerson Av S

Anderson Lawn

5605 Town Hall Dr

Architectural Landscape Design Inc

19151 Brookwood Rd
Prior Lake

Artistic Landscapes Inc

180 Northshore Dr
Maple Plain

Augie's Drain Cleaning

500 Yosemite Ave N
Golden Valley

Avad Construction

17144 Rockney St NE

Bachman's Inc

6010 Lyndale Ave S

Benjamin Franklin Plumbling

12725 Gavic

biota - A Landscape Design + Build Firm


Blaylock Plumbing Co

7731 4th Ave S

Bluhm Brothers Landscaping Inc

451 Front Ave
Saint Paul

Brigley Roofing Inc

4743 Radio Dr
Saint Paul

Buell's Landscape Center

836 Minnesota St S

Building Hubww

7935 Stone Creek Dr #140

Castle Building & Remodeling

2710 E 33rd St

Cichy's Water & Sewer

5220 Ambassador Blvd NW
Saint Francis

Ck Remodeling & Maintenance

309 Harrison Ave
Saint Paul

Complete Basement Systems

54004 Loren Dr


3665 Trenton Ln N.

Construction Thirty-Three LLC

2921 Greeley Rd

Craftsman's Choice Inc

5680 Quam Ave NE

Creative Lawn & Landscapes Inc

14005 Northdale Blvd



Crud service

p o box 16070
Saint Paul

Cutting Edge Sewer & Drain LLC

680 Ironton St NE

D C Annis Sewer Inc

12124 12th Ave S

Dahl Mechanical


Dave's Landscape Services

3636 Lyndale Ave S

Dean Bjorkstrand Inc

7412 Lyndale Ave S

Dehn's Landscaping

24505 Tucker Rd

DHI Sprinkler Systems

6423 Concord Blvd
Inver Grove Heights

Diversified Drainage

3500 Vicksburg Ln

Duke Building & Remodeling

1533 Frost Ave
Saint Paul

Duske Contracting LLC

6568 Meridian Ave S

Dusty's Drain Cleaning

P.O. Box 262
St. Francis

Egress Window Guy Inc

3410 Kilmer Lane N

Elliott Concrete and Landscape

4111 46th Ave S

Family Over Everything Productions

580 Thomas Avenue
Saint Paul





Gardner Construction Inc

9635 Humboldt Ave S


716 3rd Ave
Mendota Heights

Gene's of Apple Valley Construction

17660 Kettering Trl

Gene's Water & Sewer Inc

3134 California St NE

General Service Contracting

PO Box 891
Saint Joseph

Goodfellows Landscapes

6845 13th Ave S


553 Como Ave
Saint Paul

Greenline Home Services

13601 80th Circle N, Suite 300
Maple Grove

Hallmark Construction Inc

PO Box 48444

Hamland Construction Co

1785 E Wrightwood Dr

HandyMan Dan & Tree Service

13032 Hialeah Path
Saint Paul

Heinen Contracting Inc

10100 Hillside Ln W

HomeTown Plumbing Inc

2440 152nd Ln NE
Ham Lake

Hopke Sewer & Drain Inc

5242 Credit River Rd
Prior Lake

Hopkins Remodel LLC

5236 Overlook Drive


2222 Edgewood Ave S





J. Benson Construction

3230 Gorham Ave

J.C Mechanical LLC

10717 France Ave S

Jake the Plumber

2109 Oakridge Street
Saint Paul

Jellison's Best Blacktop

7625 CR 50

Jeremiah Stevens Construction LLC

112 12th ave nw
Saint Paul

Jerry's Home & Garden Center

4381 Nichols Rd
Saint Paul

Jesse Trebil Foundation Systems Inc

60335 US Highway 12

Junction Plumbing & Heating Inc.

9837 Haug Ave NE

J’s Rain Drains

PO Box 75


18256 South Diamond Lake Ct

Ken Smersh Plumbing LLC

28564 lily st nw

King Contractors LLC

2665 4th Ave North


11 Alice Ct
Saint Paul

Kraus Consolidated

Brooklyn Park

Krech Exteriors

5866 Blackshire Path
Inver Grove Heights

KTK Construction Inc

9120 Isanti St NE

L & R Suburban Landscaping Inc

11421 W 47th St

Lake Minnetonka Contracting LLC

4128 Chicago Ave South

Lakeland Building Services

728 Southcross Dr. W.

Land Of Lakes Seamless Gutters

5407 Boone Ave. N
New Hope

Landscape Creation Inc

8424 42nd Ave


12515 40TH ST S

Larkins Construction, LLC

165 James Ave N


3998 McMenemy St.
Saint Paul



Lulicon Inc

1627 Willis Ave
South Saint Paul

Lynde Greenhouse and Nursery

9293 Pineview Ln N
Maple Grove

M&B Services LLC

25817 Goldfinch Ave

Masterpiece Landscaping

14624 Woodhill Ter

Metro Earthworks

18950 Territorial Rd



Mickman Brothers Inc

14630 Hwy 65 NE

Minneapolis & Suburban Sewer & Water Inc

3233 45th Ave S


1966 Edgcumbe Rd
Saint Paul

MR Services

9933 Ibis St NW

My Odd Job Handyman

10248 Colorado Rd


670 Tonkawa Rd
Long Lake

Natures Touch Landscaping Inc

1424 88th Ave N

Nicely Dunn Handyman Service Inc

5306 Shoreview Ave

Northrup Inc

4400 Nicollet Ave S


325 107th Ave NE

One Hour Rooter

10701 93rd Ave N Ste J
Maple Grove

Ouverson Sewer & Water Inc

PO Box 247

Pahl's Market

6885 160th St W
Apple Valley

Precision Contracting

8351 Lake Dr
Circle Pines

Premier Patio and Landscape LLC

1873 French Trace Ave

ProGuard Exteriors LLC

22316 Watson St NW
Elk River

Property Recovery Services, L.L.C

4533 - 29th Ave S



Rhino Bobcat and Landscape Co. Inc.

PO Box 41966

Richfield Plumbing Co.

8640 Harriet Ave S


5424 44TH ST SE

Robert Linden Const. / Balance LLC

4356 5th St NE


4958 County Rd 8 SE
St. Cloud

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1821 University Ave
Saint Paul

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

14530 27th Ave N

Schmitz Plumbing & Heating LLC

20440 Hughes Ave

Sirek Landscaping Co.

5099 Lakeview Avenue
White Bear Lake

Skyhawk Companies LLC

12441 Nicollet Ave South

SOS Drain & Sewer Services Inc

5980 Hawthorne Rd



St Croix Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

1008 Pine Tree Trl

Standard Water Control Systems Inc

5337 Lakeland Ave N


13792 247TH AVE NW

Stonehearth Remodeling & Exteriors

2618 Coon Rapids Blvd NW
Coon Rapids


103 Orlin Ave SE

Sufka Plumbing & Water

15680 Maria Lake Rd


5708 Bernard Place

Timberland Outdoor Services

14033 Commerce Ave NE
Prior Lake

Titan Companies LLC

5050 Radio Drive


1077 Van Buren St S

Twin City Handyman LLC

8026 Greenbriar Ln
Saint Paul

Uptown Plumbing Heating & Cooling

3110 N Washington Ave.

Van Buren Landscape

PO Box 307

Vlad's Passions Remodeling

Edgewood Ave.

Weld & Sons Plumbing

3410 Kilmer Ln N

Winchell Woolsey Construction

4056 44th Ave S

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