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"we had major water and mold in our basement. It is a 90 year old musty basement with a few separate rooms. performed their work over a" few months having to juggle and coordinate with other contractors. This was not a job. Rich and his crew understood our dilemma and went to work with a high degree of professionalism. As one can imagine water and mold makes for major problems and a great deal of stress. did great by us

-Sinks P.

"We used because our buyers originally asked for it and they were willing to give a one year warranty. There were conflicting opinions on" the mold so we chose to go with rather than get an actual industrial hygienist to test it. The quotes were vastly different and gave a much more reasonable price. , the owner, was generally pretty responsive and worked well with our realtor. Though, when we needed his equipment out at the end, he forgot our appointment. He was nice about it and came the next day but it was an inconvenience. The main complaint I have were the workers. I worked from home while they were working and they were pretty unprofessional. They bickered with one another most of the time and the more experienced one made some rude/unnecessary comments to his coworker. Only one worker was up in my attic at a time and they closed the attic door on him with no other seals throughout the house. They took turns working but I guess I wasn't quite sure why we needed/were paying for two workers. Overall, for our situation it worked out and it was means to an end with a warranty for our buyer, but it is not likely that I would not use them again.

-Kelsey M.

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Local Articles in Milwaukee

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

water in flooded basement

Floods can damage carpet, flooring, drywall, furniture and clothing — follow these tips for what to do until a pro arrives or for DIY clean up.

contractor in haz-mat suit scraping paint from home exterior

Mold, radon, lead or asbestos may be hiding in your home and making you sick. Learn how to protect yourself.

home health hazard inspector hanging a warning sign on a door

Mold, radon, carbon monoxide, asbestos — learn how to test for these problems at home.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -


Try Clorox Clean Up, light amount of Clorox, easy to use.

Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

Mold Removal reviews in Milwaukee


It was a great experience! , the owner, is very easy to understand, he thoroughly explained complete process, which made the process very easy. His brother, , was very professional. The house was completely protected with drop clothes and sealed off to prevent cross-contamination. Very satisfied with the whole experience.
- Janell M.

was very helpful & responsive and went above and beyond the call for duty. He quickly stopped at the house to do a free estimate, then went over again quickly once we hired him to do the mold remediation and cleaning. There was quite a bit of mold in the air and on the surfaces of the basement, so after some additional testing ...More he went back quickly did a second round of cleaning.
While he was there, he also noticed the smell of gasoline coming from a recently-installed . He called to warn me about it, and even tightened the connection free of charge.
He is a very nice man and very helpful. I would definitely hire him again.
- Daniel S.

Though we had a scheduling misunderstanding due to illness of the owner on the date I expected service to start, and though there was also an initial set back due to machinery mal- function which was quite promptly corrected, did an excellent job with the contracted work and finished on schedule. I appreciated ...More the professionalism of the inspection and estimate process. I also appreciated the promptness of email communication as we scheduled the job.
- Thomas J.

Rich was quick to respond to my request for an estimate. His pricing was competitive with other quotes that I had received. When the work began, it was as minimally invasive as possible. Rich estimated three days for the work and was done in two. Any questions or concerns that I had were dealt with promptly.
- Brandon F.

Everything went very well. They were punctual, professional, and communication was excellent. Rich was a pleasure to do business with and I would (probably will) do business with him again.
- Jeff K.

Rich did a very thorough job and was straightforward about what we had going on and what we'd actually need to pay someone to do (nothing!) I was really impressed that he didn't try to sell their services -- he said our problems were minor and explained how I could take care of it myself. Such a relief! I really appreciated his insight ...More and he seemed very well informed about how construction works, how water causes issues, etc. He had some great tips for us to do on our own and I was grateful -- definitely worth the $125 consult fee.
- Kelley C.

Professional, ex military, very thorough. Prompt call back, arrived on time. Excellent communicators. Team found mold while getting paneling removed. Mold treated. Smelled more after treatment, but that may be due to a poorly ventilated room. I am having that drywall replaced for another reason, so I did not need to phone the company back about that ...More matter. I was extremely happy with this service, would recommend to anyone, and the pricing was reasonable. These guys do jobs that no one else will do. They deserve a lot of respect for that. Great company. Great job, Environmental.
- Emily B.

Euv call was answered in a prompt, courteous & professional manner. The work was completed in timely fashion beyond our expectation.
- Paul C.

Mold Removal Experts in Milwaukee

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Inspection

1603 Rockridge Way

911 Restoration of Milwaukee

422 E. Oak Street
Oak Creek


PO BOX 180586

A+ Environmental Inc

22 North 3rd St
Fort Atkinson

AdvantaClean of Suburban Milwaukee

2600 S. 162nd Street
New Berlin

Ambrick Painting Co Inc

PO Box 20941

Anderson Home Inspection LLC

5712 W Peninsula Road



Autum Contracting LLC

3487 N. Cramer Street

Badgerland Facility Services

W61 N 678 Mequon Ave.

BELFOR USA Group, Inc.

2929 N. 114th Street

BK Home Inspections

S95 W32855 Hickorywood Trl

Brandt Construction

3812 Glencoe Dr.

City Home Inspections, LLC

7401 W Brown Deer Rd

Creekstone Custom Carpentry, LLC

N144w6818 Pioneer Rd

Criterion Home Inspectors LLC

N59W23769 Clover Dr

Custom Craft Environmental

S82W19246 Apollo Dr.

d @ d flooring co

3274 n holton ave

Done Right Builders LLC

1100 s 1st street

Emergency Restoration Specialists Inc.

5615 S. Pennsylvania Avenue

Environmental Initiatives of North America

1529 South 81st Street
West Allis

ERS Carpet Cleaning

5615 S Pennsylvania Ave

Everdry Waterproofing Wisconsin

W226N880 Eastmound Dr.


607 N 116TH ST

Giertsen Company of Wisconsin

W223 N798 Saratoga Drive

Golden Rule Painting

1226 Meridian Ave
West Bend

Handyman Specialties

po box 210222

Healthy Home Mold Inspection

2182 N 56th St

Healthy Home Mold Inspection

10240 W National Ave #130
West Allis

Heating And Cooling Pros

PO Box 248

High Quality Contracting Inc

7542 Riverview Rd

Home Inspection All Star Milwaukee

1845 N. Farewell Avenue



Honest Home Inspections, LLC



PO BOX 511790

Infinite Services

114 S 65th St



Kelmann Restoration


Magic Touch III Sewer & Drain Cleaning LLC

3475 County Road I

Marathon Restoration

2332 N. Sylvania Ave

Marcott Remodeling

N53W16614 Prairie Dawn
Menomonee Falls

Martin's Property Management LLC

6825 W Brown Deer Rd, #242443


West Bend

Mastercat Inc

651 S Sutton Road

MetroShield LLC

15984 west heritage lane
New Berlin

Midwest Custom Cleaning Services, Inc.

10529 W Garfield Ave

MMP Remodeling

N85W16642 Ann Ave
Menomonee Falls

Mold Inspection & Testing Milwaukee WI

10448 W. Montana Ave.


2501 Mayes Road


21302 West 7 Mile Road

Nelson Clean Care, Inc.

21860 Watertown Rd C1

North Star Energy Consulting LLC

2376 S 63rd St

P&R Carpet and Furniture Cleaning

1570 Wisconsin Ave

Paul Davis Restoration - Milwaukee

2010 South 4th St

ProGuard Environmental Services

10570 W Pallottine Dr

Puro Clean First Responders

N16 W22020 Jericho Dr


P.O.Box 18394

SERVPRO of Milw North

N92 W15600 Megal Dr
Menomonee Falls

Servpro of Southeast Milwaukee County

9645 S. 54th Street

Servpro of Southwest Waukesha Co.

1416 Poplar Drive

StopMold LLC

N 74 W 22587 Twin Oaks Ct.

Tic Tac Remodeling

1236 N. 10th Ave.
West Bend

TNT Builders

632 Federal Pkwy

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Whole House Insulation Installers

8112 W National Ave

Zero-Trace Air Quality

2501 W Hampton Ave


PO BOX 510925

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