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Louisville Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

"The guy was only there for 4 to 5 minutes for the consultation. He was in and out so fast I never felt like they told me or showed me what was going on. The men" who did the work were nice and good guys, but the little bit of work I had done was not good. The cement is already starting to crack and there is still dirt coming down and going into my garage.

-Elizabeth D.

"I called about a problem with water seeping into my garage during heavy rains. The estimator wasn't sure how to handle the problem and said he would speak" with a colleague and call me with an estimate. He was very polite, but I never heard from Champion again.

-keith K.

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Few kitchen appliances get as much use as the garbage disposal. And over the years, common issues such as jamming and leaking can occur. However, a disposal not operating properly or maintained can break down and cause plumbing issues - leading to costly repairs.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Louisville


They came out several times. We still had the water in the basement, so the guy came out and recommended a sump pump. Our basement is really funky and he fixed it. We have the best basement in our neighborhood now. He is an expert. He is incredibly thorough. We just listen to him because he knows structural engineering and he knows how the water ...More flows. He gives the right advice. He has a degree in structural engineering. A person has to allow time to schedule him in. He is very prompt to come out, give estimates, and give ideas; but he is always booked up. He is here when he says he is going to be here.
- Russell C.

They were very knowledgeable, thorough and professional and timely. They put in a french drain and covered it with high grade quality top soil, mulched it and then seeded it. And it decreased the leaks in my garage significantly.
- PAT L.

Very satisfied with the work overall. The retaining wall turned out really great. The only rework was to install pvc caps at the junction of the downspouts instead of just dropping the downspouts into the 4" pvc pipe. The work was started and completed according to schedule. also removed a 4"diseased tree that ...More bordered the street at no additional charge. I plan to have return in September - October to finish landscaping with plantings in the beds that were prepared.
This was quite a bit of preliminary work prior to landscaping to be done, and 's bid was the only one out of the three I obtained that I felt had the resources to complete the work, particularly the retaining wall. I can highly recommend for this type of work.
- Paul F.

From beginning to end this was a very good experience. was the person who came out to give the estimate. He was very thorough in his explanation of how the system would work and the work that would be done. I contacted other companies for estimates, which were around the same price, but the service from Case was outstanding ...More so I went with them. The job was scheduled, and within 10 days the work was complete. They showed up with a very large crew who go right to work. The crew leader was very professional and made sure all the work was done properly and to a high standard. He also explained everything in detail before they started the work. It only took one day, and when they were done it looked like a totally different basement. The service and quality of work makes this company a definite choice for any foundation or basement work in the future. After the job was complete, the owner himself made sure to speak with me and get me some documents I needed to fulfill a mortgage refinance, and he did it quickly.
- Dana H.

I was referred to by a friend who used them. She gave me the number and I called and talked to a nice lady who set me up an appointment for that afternoon. The plumber who came out was very nice, neat and professional which was important to me. He immediately proceeded to look at all my plumbing problems, we discussed my high ...More water bill , He checked out the problems inside my house and began forming a plan. He fixed my leaking pipes right away. He said I had a water line in the yard that was leaking and causing the high water bill, so he quoted a price that was very reasonable. He gave me a discount on other things and aid he would be back the next day with a backhoe to start digging up the yard to repair the service. He wound up replacing the entire line for the same price , so I got a whole new water service. They cleaned up and finished the job and everything is working beautifully again. I would highly recommend this company.
- Helena B.

The first time I had work done by was in September when my kitchen drain was clogged. He was the 2nd plumber I had in my house to fix the problem. The first guy didnt know what he was doing. A friend recommended . I called him and gave him details of my problem and he told me what he thought was the problem. ...More I was leary after my previous days experience but decided to give him a shot. came the next day. He had to cut out the old cast iron pipe & replace it with PVC from the main floor down to the basement. He was here for about 8 hrs & only charged us $350 + materials. We were so impressed with him that we have used him a lot since then. We just bought an 80 yr old house and there are a lot of plumbing issues to fix. is always very fair and honest. He keeps us informed of what he's doing every step of the way. He has been in our home several times when we werent home and we have never had a problem. He even takes our dog out for us. doesn't do shoddy work. He is particular about his work and doesnt take short cuts. My husband and I feel very fortunate to have found him. We have a lot more projects to do in this old house and its a great feeling to know will do it right and not clean out our bank account.
- Sara S.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Louisville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

502 Construction and Concrete

1236 Gilmore Ln

A and S Contractors, LLC

333701 E.890 Rd.


301 Yoder Tipton Road

AAA Plumbing Doctor

2241 State St

Adam's Plumbing Inc

17014 Taylorsville Rd

Affordable Builders

522 Emery Rd

Alltrade Property Management

710 Barret Ave # 210

Alpine Inc. General Contractor

3443 Leitchfield Rd.

American Basement Solutions

1988 Old State Road 44

Arter Plumbing

3712 Bishop Ln


9110 Hurstwood Ct

ASI Plumbing

4209 Camp Ground Rd

Austin Bryan Plumbing

11127 Stalwert Pl

B-Dry Systems of Louisville

3909 Bishop Ln

BC Plumbing Company

1215 S 7th St

Bee's Plumbing

4203 Starlight Lane

Call Ken

3316 Belmont Rd



Case Foundation Systems

449 Downes Ter

Champion Waterproofing & Piering LLC

11214 Decimal Drive

Champion Waterproofing & Piering, LLC

11214 Decimal Dr

Charles Guelda & Sons Plumbing

7504 Fegenbush Ln

Coogle's Interiors

10000 Dixie hwy

Crane Landscaping Inc

12305 Old Lagrange Rd

Crowley Service Company

330 Robert Burden Road

Dauenhauer Plumbing

3416 Robards Ct



Dependable Handyman LLC

2612 Tucker Station Rd

Eric's Plumbing Services, LLC

3630 Stanton Blvd.

Fackler Homes Inc

1504 Polo Fields Ct.

Frazier Home Improvements

3900 Bonaventure Blvd.

Greene Plumbing Services

PO Box 4838

Greenwell Plumbing

1840 Scott Rd

JC Mohr construction

738 peaceful way

Keith Thompson Plumbing Repairs & Services

523 fisher rd.

Koppel Services

132 Outer Loop

Lake Forest Living

4535 Biles Ct.

Leanhart Plumbing Inc

8314 Old St Andrews Church Rd

Louisville Mechanical Services

800 East Main St,

Louisville Plumbing Company

5510 Fern Valley Rd Ste 107

Maeser Master Services

11101 Electron Dr

Mark Shumaker Services

E. Oak St.
Lebanon Junction

Matrix Construction LLC

1215 Manitau Ave


1231 Bringham Dr

Mr. Rooter of Louisville

1301 W Main St

New Circle Mechanical NCM Services

PO Box 43397

Onsite Heating & Air LLC

3013 Blackiston Mill Rd

Osbourne General Contracting Inc

850 Woodland Hills Dr

Overflow Plumbing

124 Production Ct

Parker Plumbing Inc.

2719 Grassland Dr.

Patricks Plumbing

6507 Delton Rd.

Plumbers In Louisville

11122 Meadow Chase Court

PlumbRight Services & Rooting, Inc.

573 N Bardstown Road
Mount Washington

Quality Grading


Ram Jack

10342 Bluegrass Pkwy

Ray's Plumbing LLC

1584 Burns Rd


500 Willowbrook Drive

Rodney Terry Plumbing

3266 Ruckriegel Pkwy

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1600 S Preston St

SML Design Build LLC

816 Franklin St

Steele Blades Lawn & Landscape Services


Story Restorations

1626 Story Avenue



Thompson Bros. Plumbing

436 Roberts Ave

TJ'S maintenance

4578 buds rd


143 Arnold Dr

Two Guys Guttering

1321 Lincoln Avenue

United Dynamics Inc

2555 Cannon St

Unlimited Landscapes Inc

502 N English Station Rd

Venhoff Plumbing & Heating Co

1847 San Jose Ave

WM Branch & Son Inc

1442 Hugh Ave

Wolz Plumbing & Design

1409 Fairdale Rd

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