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A
"Excellent. came over and was extremely professional and charismatic, especially for a Sunday night. Was upfront with cost and scope of work." Left the basement much cleaner than he found it!!! Any future issues I will definitely be requesting his services again.

-Elizabeth E.

A
"My septic tank backed up due to tree roots in the pipe. In past, my husband would have to rent an auger, bring it home, do the work, and haul it back. I was looking" for a product that killed tree roots in sewer lines that was septic safe. I came across . My first contact with them was outstanding! The woman who answered the phone was the nicest person you could hope for to answer a business call! She was knowledgeable about company services, and products. She explained the product they use for sewer line tree roots which is Rootx. and another tech came out first thing the next morning and were great as well. They once again explained what I needed to know. They will even contact me next year and put more product in, so I will never have to worry about my septic backing up from tree roots again.

-Stacey H.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Cleaning reviews in Kansas City

A

Rating
L.J. & His son snaked my basement drain. I was having some foundation work the next week and the foundation company recommended that I get it done. They were on time, knew what they were doing, careful not to track mud into my house and gave me some pointers on the equipment in the basement to a house that I was just moving ...More in to. He gave me some estimates and I scheduled him again on the spot to update my kitchen lines to Pex. Very knowledgeable and friendly!
- Brooke H.
A

Rating
came out right when dispatch said he would. He was very polite and after looking at what the problem was he gave me the quote. After i agreed he went right to work. He kept me up to date on what was going on and when he was unable to fix the issue he was very prompt to call in a second tech to bring some more powerful equipment. ...More Both guys did a great job to get our issue fixed and was able to unclog the line. They even sent out their camera tech to get video of what was wrong with my line. I appreciate what did to solve my issue and i would recommend them to anyone.
- James Y.
D

Rating
Our sump pump went out, so we contacted this company who we had used in the past. My husband told the receptionist at All n One that he would like the earliest available appointment, and the lady told him someone would be by between 8 and 10am. When 10am had passed, he called the company again and the receptionist told him it was between 8 and 10am ...More the next day. The serviceman finally arrived the next day, which was still after the promised 10am. He did a good job at replacing the sump pump, but that is where the positives end. He came into our home with shoes that were so filthy, that he left clumps of dirt on our hardwood floors, and as he walked up and down our carpeted stairs, he ground dirt into the light colored carpet. Also, as he took the old sump pump upstairs, he dripped dirty water on the carpet as well as left a puddle in the room where the sump pump was. He made no attempt to clean up his mess, and when I contacted the company to tell them about the mess, they never responded even to apologize. We have a young toddler who spends a lot of time on the floor, so we were quite upset. So in summary, the work performed was acceptable, but it was not worth the time wasted waiting for the serviceman to arrive or the time and resources it took to clean up the mess he left behind.
- Marion G.
A

Rating
JP was referred to us by a friend that has used him. While remodeling the downstairs Man Cave, JP first helped replace a bathroom vanity & sink. The sink needed to be unclogged & hot water hooked up along with a new toilet installation. After getting estimates from other Company's, JP was much more reasonable. One Company wanted to ...More charge us 4 times JP's price for less work. Several months later we had JP install a new sink in the bar/kitchenette also in the downstairs remodel. We have used him several times after for various smaller plumbing jobs. JP is not out to rip off anyone which is refreshing. He is generally a good person who does his best job for a fair price.
- Vicki F.
F

Rating
I had a clogged drain so I purchased what seemed to be a good deal through Angie's List. The deal clearly states $49.00 to unclog a drain. When came out he said the deal was only to clean the pop up in the sink. I was charged an additional $74.00 to unclog the drain. The deal states nothing about cleaning the stopper. ...More In fact, it clearly states $49.00 for unclogging one drain.
- Myrna H.
A

Rating
My idiot tenant called roto rooter to clear a drain instead of calling me first. Sheesh. I ended up paying over $200 to clear a drain.
they give a 6 month guarantee. Big deal
- seneca G.
A

Rating
I called on a Saturday after 2pm and was told I'd have someone out very soon Their guy arrived within a 2 hr period. He was very courteous and knowledgeable. Went right to work and cleaned up everything. Before I called Roto Rooter I had called another major company who mentioned they would call a "third" party to check out our problem. ...More I received a call 3 hours later at the very moment the Roto Rooter service person was leaving. Excellent response and service. Thank you Roto Rooter
- Ruth R.
A

Rating
Great. We will definitely use again. I think the best part was the man came out within 15 minutes of our call! This might not be typical. I will soon find out. I just called the company again with a problem at a rental house we own. Hope it goes as well as before!

- Kathie K.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Kansas City

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

221 Construction LLC

1050 W Innovation Dr
Kearney

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A & S Solutions

Kansas City

A Handyman & A Greenthumb

30893 W 152nd St
Excelsior Springs

A W B HANDY HANDS RESOURCES

7212 S BENTON
Kansas City

AAAce Drain Cleaning

1129 South 55th Street

Aarons Services

PO Box 24085
Kansas City

AB May

7100 E 50th St
Kansas City

ABC Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

3404 N. Garfield Ave.
Kansas City

Above and Beyond Plumbing, LLC

1104 Jackson Dr
Liberty

Accurate Dimensions Construction LLC

233 S.W. Greenwich Drive
Lees Summit

Advocate Master Plumbing

707 Northwest 16th Street
Blue Springs

Affordable Energy Solutions

4445 NE Blue Jay Drive
Lees Summit

Affordable Home Repair LLC

7209 N Troost Ave
Kansas City

All Pro Plumbing

1213 N. Old Mill Rd.
Independence

All-n-One Plumbing & Drains

PO Box 520811
Independence

Andy's Pipe Dream

15954 S. Mur Len Road

Angel Services

Kansas City

Anthony Weir Plumbing & Remodel LLC

8404 E 105th St
Kansas City

Archer Plumbing

PO Box 40305

ASAP Electric

11800 Shawnee Mission Pkwy

B & L Plumbing Service Inc

301 NW Central St
Lees Summit

B&J Textures

11201 Orchard
Kansas City

Barnds Companies

10000 W 135 St

Beemer Plumbing

814 E Main Street

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

7748 Troost Ave
Kansas City

Bob's Root'r Service

9105 E. 69th Terr.
Kansas City

Breckenridge Builders Inc

2315 W 104th Terrace

Burkin Plumbing

50 North 74th St.

CHARLES G JAMES CO

3965 West 83rd

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

CKM Plumbing

605 Northeast 118th Terrace
Kansas City

Collins Plumbing LLC

9203 Noland Rd
Kansas City

Conway Construction

30101 E. Hanna Rd.
Buckner

D&D Service and Repair LLC

704 NW 52nd Terr
Kansas City

Day & Night Plumbing, Inc.

4915 N Fisk
Kansas City

DRAINS & THINGS

1032 N. 21ST PL

Drains R Us

401 NW Essex Dr.
Lee's Summit

Everyday Mechanical Inc.

2616 NW 86th St
Kansas City

First General Services of Kansas City

708 NW R.D. Mize Road Suite J
Blue Springs

Five Star Mechanical Contractors Inc

5415 Raytown Rd
Kansas City

Four Way Plumbing Co

607 N Scott Ave
Belton

FOXYCOXYLLC

P.O. Box 542
Lexington

Freeman Remodeling@Handyman

8421 Madison Ave
Kansas City

Full Nelson Plumbing

1628 N. Corrington Avenue
Kansas City

Genesis Plumbing

6935 Woodson Rd
Raytown

Gercken Construction Company

137 N Stewart Rd
Liberty

GOBEN COMPANY

11601 HICKMAN MILLS DR
Kansas City

GRT PLUMBING

19058 W 319TH ST

Handyman Barrett LLC

19419 Bryn Mawr Dr
Independence

Harbolt Plumbing, Inc.

12017 W 74th St

Heritage Exterior Design LLC

124 N Prairie Street
Liberty

Hydro Physics Pipe Inspection

7823 N Park
Kansas City

Hydro-Tech Plumbing Services, LLC

P.O. Box 2342
Platte City

Icscom LLC

8808 W 119th St

J C PLUMBING

4915 N Beacon Ave
Kansas City

JASON TOPE PLUMBING

2526 S 47TH DR

JOE LILLIS PLUMBING

8415 W 113th St

JOHN R LESAN PLUMBING & HEATING CO

11803 S. SPAINHOUR RD
Lone Jack

Johnson County Home Service Plumbing

4011 Bonner Industrial Drive

JPS SEWER & DRAIN INC

PO BOX 592
Lees Summit

JT Complete LLC

12111 W 66th St

Kansas City Power Washing & Home Repairs

4140 Prospect Ave.
Kansas City

KC Home Solutions, LLC

804 N. Meadowbrook Dr.

KC Metro Plumbing LLC

15621 W 87th St Pkwy

Kevin Ginnings Plumbing Service

903 Locust
Harrisonville

Kurt's Plumbing Inc

10729 West 109th ST

Ladd Service Company

408 E 4th Street

LITTLE JOHN PLUMBING

315 E 70 TH ST
Kansas City

Lumberjack Construction Inc.

9431 Somerset Drive

Lutz Plumbing Inc

23712 W 83rd Ter

Malnar Remodeling

7415 stearns

MARIONIX INC

1401 WOODLAND ST.

MAYES PLUMBING INC

501 S McCleary Rd
Excelsior Springs

McGuire Drain Cleaning & Plumbing

3612 Northeast Parvin Rd.
Kansas City

MEL Contracting

1040 NW S Outer Rd
Blue Springs

Mr Plumber Inc

3057 Merriam Ln

Nick Triano Plumbing

1650 Madison Ave
Kansas City

NORTHLAND THRIFTY ROOTER

103 N 65TH ST
Kansas City

NorthSide Plumbing

975 Swift Ave
Kansas City

Parks Roofing and Renovations

3843 Montgall
Kansas City

Paxton heating and air

4138 ne kelsey rd.

PG Plumbing & Backhoe Service llc

7424 NW Oak Drive
Kansas City

Phillips Plumbing

4116 E 35th st
Kansas City

Platinum Plumbing, Inc.

1615 N. M 7 Highway
Independence

Plumbers 911 Kansas

10955 Lowell Avenue, Suite 1050

Plumbers 911 Missouri

8600 Hillcrest Rd Suite 2
Kansas City

PLUMBING PRO

26904 S STATE RTE C
Freeman

Pool Guys LLC

616 Sunset Ave.
Liberty

POOR JOHN'S PLUMBING

Kansas City, MO
Kansas City

Precision Plumbing

3245 Roanoke Rd
Kansas City

Presko Remodeling and Home Repair

P.O. Box 11115
Kansas City

Priority Plumbing

103 ne 103rd st
Kansas City

Pro Paving & Sealcoating

1217 Nw Scenic Dr Grain Valley
Grain Valley

Projectquote LLC

7123 west 95th street

QUALITY PLUMBING INC

1731 HOWELL ST.
North Kansas City

R Mech Heating Cooling & Plumbing

1421 Wabash Ave
Kansas City

Raytown Plumbing

PO Box 18575
Kansas City

Razor Rooter / Any-Time Sewer Service

3014 NE Excelsior St
Kansas City

Razorback Plumbing

5400 Troost Ave
Kansas City

Reddi Services Inc

4011 Bonner Industrial Dr

Rescue 1 Plumbing

PO Box 2039
Lees Summit

SamuelCole & Company llc.

3711 Genessee St
Kansas City

Segers Properties LLC.

7221 Troost Ave.
Kansas City

Sewer Surgeon LLC

33177 W 87th Cir

Snake 'n' Rooter

3370 NE Ralph Powell Rd
Lees Summit

Spirit Plumbing LLC

P.O.Box 2061
Platte City

Stink Bomb Inc.

Lees Summit

Stouder Improvements

5910 N Euclid Ave
Kansas City

Suburban Home Services

312 E. 78th Terrace
Kansas City

Superior Plumbing & Gas‎

8426 Clint Dr
Belton

Sure-Flow

11944 W 95th St

Taylor Plumbing Services Inc

400 Park Dr
Smithville

The Plumber LLC

6916 Hardsaw Road
Oak Grove

The Plumbing Pro

12519 Blue Ridge
Grandview

TNG Field Services

PO Box 410352
Kansas City

Val Gross Plumbing

603 East 23rd St
Independence

Vaughan Mechanical Service

4220 NE 34th Street
Kansas City

Village Plumbing

2912 W. 72nd St.

WEL-DON PLUMBING & DRAIN SERVICE

6324 OVERTON AVE
Kansas City

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