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"Very good job of explaining services (friendly and careful) completed job on time. Complete diagnosis and resolution.


" was very friendly and professional. He called me back within 10 minutes after leaving voice mail and came the same afternoon. He came in" and went straight to work after explaining the entire process (twice, my fault). Got the job done quick and complete. And emailed me his report on time as promised. I highly recommend if you need mold testing.

-Mary H.

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Local Articles in Houston

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

water in flooded basement

Floods can damage carpet, flooring, drywall, furniture and clothing — follow these tips for what to do until a pro arrives or for DIY clean up.

contractor in haz-mat suit scraping paint from home exterior

Mold, radon, lead or asbestos may be hiding in your home and making you sick. Learn how to protect yourself.

home health hazard inspector hanging a warning sign on a door

Mold, radon, carbon monoxide, asbestos — learn how to test for these problems at home.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -


Try Clorox Clean Up, light amount of Clorox, easy to use.

Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

Mold Removal reviews in Houston


He was very professional, and I checked out his education and credentials. He promptly returned my call, and he came for the service when he said he would. We liked his personality and he explained everything and answered all our questions. He told us when to expect to receive the results via email, and they came right on time. I would recommend him.
- DEE G.

Was quite response providing the report and answering call to request for service. is a very personable person and provided good insight into where the problem areas were. Overall I was quite satisfied with the experience, expect that I have been trying to get in touch with him again after the service was provided to clarify ...More a few questions regarding the report but I havent gotten a response. Called twice and sent a message as well. Otherwise would have rated an 'A' in all aspects.
- Jasmeet J.

We have used before and they were great. This time I knew who to call and it was like dealing with a friend. I called , the owner, who expressed his concern and said he would send someone over. The guys that work for are always thoughtful and courteous and this time was no exception. ...More They removed all of the wet stuff and took out anything that had any mold on it. They also removed two feet beyond where mold was found.
Because my child has issues and a little mold was found, I needed to have someone come and test our air to make certain we had found everything and that our air was perfectly safe for him. This means having a mold consultant come and take air samples and then sending them to a lab. This takes time. During this time, we wanted the air scrubbers to stay in our home so we could continue to live here while we were waiting on results. really worked with us on this. We had some trouble with the lab which made things take an extra long time. was quite patient and offered helpful advice. The guy in charge of my job was . He was incredibly kind and helpful.
If you need a restoration company, I would use . It felt good to know that I could trust them and they were not going to take advantage of my misfortune.

- Eldon M.

was a very good communicator, he was also punctual and professional. He delivered a visual inspection as at a fee agreed upon in advance. I was surprised to see additional fees of $75 (single swab test) to $150 (air tests inside and outside) for actual testing. I chose this company because of his reputation for quality. There ...More are competitors whose results and even motives I do not trust. There was an Angie's list discount that I could have received but failed to mention it before signing the bill.
- guy B.

Olympic did a great job. They were very helpful and patient as our project took a long time (not because of Olympic - for other reasons). The price was very reasonable as well. Hopefully we won't ever have a need for mold remediation services again, but if we do, we will be sure to call them.
- Kevin C.

We hired after a previous mold remediation failed. was much more thorough than the first mold consultant that we worked with. They found things that the first consultant did not, and were more professional and helpful as well. They had good advice for us along the way and were very helpful throughout the ...More project to completion.
- Kevin C.

They sprayed for mold and then the ac wouldnt work, they sprayed in the attic. They told me to leave the A/C on so it would run through the system. The A/C didnt work, so i called the main office and the guy came back. he told me when he left it was working and i told him it wasnt. I asked him what i should do so he went back up in the attic and turned ...More it on. So I don't even know if the A/C ran the spray through. They came back on the 14th to talk to me about my bill and get a few other spots.
- Martha G.

Mold returned in the exact same spot approximately 6 weeks later. When we called to discuss, the owner was initially willing to help (but wanted to make absolutely clear that this was ultimately my problem, not his, since he had a mold clearance in hand). However, as discussions continued, he became progressively more agitated ...More and confrontational.
was unable to provide a single photograph of the work that they had done, claiming that the camera was lost. This is in violation of state law. The owner attempted to claim that the law did not apply because the project size was less than 25 square feet. However, the state's website clearly states that this is not the case, and when this was pointed out to the owner, this seemed to be the final straw. From that point on, he became very angry to the point where we could no longer have productive conversations.
He also flatly refused to do anything unless we stopped working with the mold consultant that we hired the second time around (licensed, and chosen at random from Angie's List), apparently due to personal problems between the two of them. We found this to be completely unprofessional.
On top of everything else, 's services are extremely expensive. We had the exact same job done (obviously) a second time by another licensed remediator for almost exactly half the price of what charged us the first time.
- Kevin C.

Mold Removal Experts in Houston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st American Storage

12310 Perry Rd

24HR Painting

15106 Sun Glaze Ct

911 Restoration of Houston

6212 Evergreen Street



ABC Restoration Inc

1106 Carby Rd

Able Inspections & Engineering

PO Box 820129



Affordable Mold Testing

560 Sawyer St


2206 Foreland Dr

All Coast Home Inspections

9230 lee ln

All Stucco Mold Houston

11523 Twain Drive

AQ Testing Services LLC

P.O. Box 389

Arista's Painting & Remodeling

13100 W. Bellfort Ave.
Sugar Land

Arrow Services, Inc.

10202 Airline Drive, Suite A

Arrow Termite & Pest Control

4720 Jones Creek Rd

Asbestos and Mold Services

6 N Brook Pebble Ct

Atlas Green Homes

Main office in Houston. serving Austin,San Antonio

Benchmark Claims Consultants, LLC

107 S Friendswood Dr., Suite A

BIONIC Emergency Svcs

14300 NW Freeway

BioSweep Odor Removal Services

1511 Bingle Rd D-8

Black & White Construction Inc

PO Box 8225
The Woodlands

Blackmon Mooring

10511 Kipp Way

Boone's Restoration & Carpet Cleaning

PO Box 8515
The Woodlands

Brand Construction Services LLC

8876 Gulf Freeway

Brown Sterling Builders Inc

715 Bradfield

Brushstrokes Painting & Remodeling

Sugar Land

Cadmus Environmental

2206 Foreland Dr.

Carpet Cleaners Katy

440 cobia drive suite 801

Carpet Cleaners Kingwood

4501 magnolia cove drive suite 288

Carpet Cleaning Baytown

1300 Rollingbrook Dr. Suite 901

Carpet Cleaning Humble

1931 Humble place drive suite 301

Carpet Cleaning League City

3027 Marina Bay Drive suite 393
League City

Carpet Cleaning Pearland

9307 W Broadway suite 507

Carpet Cleaning Pecan Grove TX

1906 Mayweather Ln

Carpet Cleaning Santa Fe TX

4233 FM 1764 Rd
Santa Fe

Carpet Cleaning Spring

24900 pitkin road suite 432

Carpet Cleaning Tomball

990 village square suite M

Carpet Cleaning Webster TX

17926 Hwy 3

Chance Cooper Construction

26407 Aldine Westfield Rd

Clean Air America

6014 West 34th Street

Clean Air Restoration

109 N. Post Oak Suite 350

COIT Cleaning and Restoration of Houston

9001 Spring Branch Dr

Crown Services

4609 Viking Dr.

Cypress Carpet Cleaning

25250 Northwest freeway suite 420

Drymore Mold Removal

7941 Katy Freeway, #525

East-Tex Eco Services

10302 Rudolph Ct
Missouri City

Elite Emergency Solutions

3354 Chimney Rock

Escamilla Company

7743 Alperton Drive

Flood Damage Pro

555 Butterfield Rd

Frontier Services Group, LLC

6125 West Sam Houston Parkway North

GCR Builders, LC

1903 1st St
La Marque

Global Deco

6431 densberry ln

Home Remedy LLC

9505 Yupondale

Houston Carpet Cleaners

9600 Glenfield Ct

Imperial Restoration Services, LLP

14027 Memorial Dr #139

J & K AC & Heating

28912 Riley Rd


26324 easy st

Jenergy Inspections, Inc.

3214 Federal Rd.

Kiwi Carpet Cleaning

9595 Six Pines Dr
The Woodlands

Klanke Mechainial HVAC-ER

21715 Park Bend

L.A. Public Insurance Adjuster

1110 Nasa Parkway

Lindberg Services Group

330 Rayford Rd.

Loflin Environmental Services Inc

2020 Montrose Blvd

M & W Remodeling

17319 NordWay Dr

Made New Again

2904 Park Bend Dr

Martin Restoration

8322 Blacksmith Dr



Mold Inspection & Testing Houston TX

12506 Cannonwood Lane

Mold Inspection Houston

5534 Birdwood Rd

Mold Inspection Sciences

1127 Eldridge Pkwy

Mold Removal Houston

11807 Westheimer Road Ste. 550 #752


2501 Mayes Road

Mundae Cleaning & Restoration Services

3375 Westpark Drive 236


10101 Southwest Fwy Ste 400

NobeNash Inc

727 N Shepherd Dr


PO Box 580186

Olympic Restoration Systems

12413 Maplewood Dr
Fort Worth

On the Spot America, Inc.

PO Box 924108

Onyx Construction & New Home, Inc

8325 Broadway St.



Paul Davis Restoration

10134 Pearson St

Peesi Engineering

16315 Diamond Rock

Pinnacle Disaster & Recovery Services

12507 Woodworth Dr.

Preferred Home Inspections Inc

26406 Pine Canyon Dr

Pristine Builder

10106 Pear Limb Drive

Pro Services Cleaning & Restoration

9600 Glenfield Court

Professional Environmental Engineers

315 West Alabama

PURE Steam Clean, LLC

15500 Cutten Road, #1605





PuroClean Services

6125 W Sam Houston Pkwy N

Ranger Resurface

5402 FM 1488 RD #322

RCC Group

1095 Evergreen Circle Suite 200
The Woodlands

Remote Logistics International

6430 Richmond Avenue

Robert J Reda & Associates LLC

5341 Nolda St. Unit D

Rug Cleaners Houston

3100 Timmons Ln, Suite 560 Houston, TX 77027



SanRos Field Services

3701 S Richey St
South Houston

ServiceMaster Advantage

602 Hobbs Rd
League City

ServiceMaster Restoration & Cleaning

801 Russell Palmer Rd

SERVPRO of Baytown/Channelview

3411 Garth Rd.

Servpro of Bear Creek

1500 Brittmoore Rd Ste 104

SERVPRO of Bellaire

P.O.Box 771323

ServPro of Stafford/Missouri City

1306 FM 1092 Ste. 205
Missouri City

Servpro Of The Woodlands Conroe

2700 Greens Rd

SERVPRO of The Woodlands/Conroe

2700 Greens Road

SERVPRO of Town & Country

10643 Haddington Dr

Southpro Restoration

4549 Brittmoore Rd



Sugarland Carpet Cleaning

77 sugar creek center blvd suite 610

Sun Company Remodeling

3622 marywood

Superior Renovations & Construction

8000 Research Forest Drive

Tanner & Associates

West Sam Houston Parkway



Texas Home Masters

1103 Sagebrush Trl

TGE Resources, Inc.

8048 Northcourt Rd

The DirtBusters Services

6813 Turtlewood Dr

The Renovation Team Inc.

7910 Westview Ste D

Torocon Services

1366 E Richey Rd

Triton Renovation

3210 N Frazier St

U Gotta Guy

5315B Cypress Creek Pkwy

UCM Cleaning Services

710 Louisiana St

UCM Services Houston

7422 Welsh Stone Ln

United Water Restoration

2121 Brittmoore

Upholstery Cleaning Houston

440 Benmar Dr st.4220

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

W H S Construction Inc

12366 Taurus Dr

Water Damage Houston

1947 W McKinney St

Water Damage Houston

6420 Richmond Ave St.750

Watermark Restoration Ltd

11020 Katy Fwy Ste 205

West Bay Contracting

12518 Green River Dr

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