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"Crew showed up well within the stated window and immediately went to work. The knew exactly what to do and had all the supplies they needed. Within 45 minutes they" were done. There was no mess, the job was relatively quiet except for the blower in the truck, and there was no extra cost. Couldn't ask for more. Thanks

-William N.

"It went extremely well, we are very satisfied with the product and the installation. Job was finished as quoted. was on site the entire" time. The job was very professionally completed by a crew that obviously knew what they were doing!!

-Lane D.

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Local Articles in Harrisburg

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can push your energy bills through the roof. Learn how installing roof vents can cool your attic space and prevent severe damage.

Professional insulation installer

Insulating plaster walls can be a good idea, but you'll want professional help.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Harrisburg


The work crew arrived as scheduled, completed all three areas as requested per the and cleaned up upon finishing the job. The work was completed a few months after a whole home energy audit, which was completed and confirmed a few problem areas where there was heat loss.
- Rosanna M.

I can't believe I didn't do this sooner. we've lived in our Cape Cod home since 1987. In the cold weather our second floor was usually ten degrees colder than the first floor. I had no idea who to contact to do the insulation work, so I checked Angie's List. I saw that had many good reviews, so I called them. ...More I can't think of anything negative to say. From start to finish and were great. It's obvious why they have been successful in their business for many years. They were punctual with phone calls and appointments, answered all our questions, used high quality products, did the work quickly and well, and cleaned up when done. They even came during a snow storm. After they left I placed a thermometer in one of the rooms on the second floor to see what the difference would be between the two floors. I'm pleased to report that it's now only about two degrees cooler. This is a major improvement. As far as cost is concerned, I did not get any other estimates, so I don't know how they compare. It was more important to me to have someone with an excellent reputation do the work. I'm confident in writing that if you hire , Inc. to do the work, you will soon be writing your own positive review.
- Varda G.

I was very happy with . Kiing. They were able to quote me a price over the phone with $50 wiggle room. The price came in at the top end and this was understandable due to a small complication that came up at the job. was very professional and personable, explaining everything I needed explained. Unfortunately ...More after a week, the line running to the fridge sprung a leak. I called and was back the next day to fix it at no charge. I like a company that stands by their work. I would recommend them to anyone who needs a plumber and will use them again.
- Duane S.

We were pleased with the review and estimate of the project by . He crawled through the attic area surveying concerns and potential problems and took mutiple photos of problem areas. The work was performed in a timely manner by skilled personnel.
- Gary S.

I obtained several estimates and was the only one who had an excellent choice about the cost/quality of windows and their estimate was about half of what the others were. I was replacing windows in my attic dormers. I do not use the attic for anything so only wanted adequate windows for insulation and venting. The other companies ...More had only one window style which was a high end (high cost) product. They agreed that I did not really need such a high end product for my attic but insisted that it was still a better choice. , the estimator from , was the only one of these estimators to realize that the windows were two different sizes (on different sides of the house). The others only measured one set of windows. He also recommended the lowest cost window they had as quite adequate for my needs (they have several different levels of windows to choose from). He didn't push the additional siding for the front of the dormers but I wanted it. His estimate was much lower than others mainly due in part of course to my lower end window choice but the siding was only about $300 extra (a bargain I thought). was very easy to deal with and seemed very upfront and honest. Also, their selection of windows are manufactured by a company in Pennsylvania. I checked that company out on their website and the products looked good ( also had a sample window to show me). The windows came in about 3-4 weeks and the installers did a great job. They got the windows installed in less than a day (and were very courteous and careful) and had to come back for another day to install the siding (took longer than installing the windows). Also, no down payment is required and payment in full only when the work is done. Highly recommend these guys....very happy with the windows, the installation, and the company.
- John O.

From replacement windows, to tearing off two layers of old siding and sheeting, insulating exterior walls, installing new OSB sheeting, installing quality full-back siding, soffit/facia/venting, gutters, porch roof, and misc electrical work, the overall workmanship was excellent and completed in a professional manor.

I had been planning ...More this exterior remodel, for well-over 5 years until the equity in my home was sufficient to cover cost of this project. My home was in desperate need of some TLC. I couldn't keep the temperature above 68 degrees during the heating season. It was time to replace and insulate my home exterior. I had my own design ideas including a detailed concept of my exterior goals. I applied and received 6 estimates from contractors and specialized siding/window companies to get a good feel of knowledge and cost that would best serve my needs. Co won the contract. and his son's worked through my ideas and goals and came pretty close at being able to meet all of them. They recommended a local company to get my project started with yard grading, drainage, and replacing sidewalks. That part of my project went well and set me up for getting my home exterior done. I was a little apprehensive about completing this project during winter, but assured me his crew wouldn't have any issues getting the job done. 's crew came in and got started right away. They were prompt with their schedule, friendly, and most importantly careful with my home inside and out (especially with my landscape void of grass). Mud was issue but they were able to work around it and in it. From replacement windows, to tearing off two layers of siding, insulating the walls, OSB sheeting and finally with the installation of quality fullback siding, the overall workmanship was excellent and completed in a professional manor. Did we have issues along the way? Sure we did, but I have to say, they did really good job.

Disappointments: Some cost over-runs were unexpected and could have been better communicated. Even though the porch build turned out well, it was adjusted from my concept to suit the build and cost more than the original estimate.
- Ken L.

I will keep this short by saying that they are extremely overpriced and their price is very negotiable. The estimate started at $18,000 and after negotiations and talking with the supposed estimator/saes rep. we were at $9,500. This was on the condition that I allowed him to show up the next day and meet with my insurance adjuster and if they gave me ...More a check I would have them do the work.Needless to say the sales rep blew me off and the insurance adjuster was p*****. I never heard from them again.
- Jordan S.

Got the price lowered slightly to maintain business!
Very nice and informative, punctual and efficient.
Would highly recommend!
- Dana S.

Insulation Contractors in Harrisburg

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

allan s wolfehome improvment

59 bragg drive
East Berlin

Allen Building Systems, Inc.

5698 Gingrich Road

America's Choice Remodeling

3050 C Canby Street

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Remodeling Enterprises Inc

1563 Long Run Rd
Schuylkill Haven

American/Hungerford Bldg Prod

150 Fulling Mill Rd

Arroyo's Finishing Touch

307 West Market St

B&D Contracting Services

6101 Embers Lane

Bahret Church Interiors, Inc.

135 North Fairview Ave

BCR Building & Repair

134 Birch St

Beattie construction

236 Weldon aly

Blue Mountain Building and Remodeling Inc

541 Brandt Ave
New Cumberland

Blue Ridge Construction

940 Wenrich Street

C.A.R.E Property Services

1235 Abbottstown Pike

CAM Remodeling LLC

2819 Candlelight Dr

Campbell Contracting Co

17 Long Lane Dr

Capital Choice Home Repair & Remodel

Briarcliff Rd



Catalfano Construction LLC

east willow st


PO BOX 1067

Choice Window, Doors & More, Inc

550 E Main St
New Holland

Creation Services Group

90 Aberdeen Rd

Custom Design Home Improvements

650 N. Middleton RD

DA Batson, Inc.

701 South 4th st

DePalma Construction Inc

29 Tannery Rd

DNM Contracting, INC

7389 Paxton St

Easy Siders Home Improvement Co Inc

419 Walton Avenue


510 W 4TH ST

Energy Smart Construction, LLC.

255 Hillcrest Rd
Camp Hill

Energy Smart Home Improvement

20 Beech St

Fanelli Home Improvements

420 Nichols St


4806 Derry Street


7640 Appleby Rd

Four Phase Construction

274 Hillcrest Road
Camp Hill

G P Harris Construction Inc

75 Goldmine Rd

Gary Kohler Handyman Svc

1106 Briarcliff Rd

GDW Builders

PO Box 363

Get Clear Windows LLC

129 Bridge St
New Cumberland

Giovanni's construction

214 s Lincoln ave

Grizzly Construction

36 Michael Ct

Home Improvement Services LLC

971 White Oak Road

Home Remedies Inc.

428 N. George Street

Home Renu

838 S 20th St

Hyp Renovations

817 Company Farm Rd

Install America

1353 Alleghenyville Rd

Integrity Construction

1550 E Pleasant Valley Blvd

Integrity Home Renewal

46 schoolhouse rd
New Providence

J & F Construction

3029 Harvest Road

J&K Home Improvements

952 Church St.
Mount Joy

JACKTS Painting and Repairs

560 Valley St

James Heating


JC Hilliard Handyman Services

5565 Spring Rd
Shermans Dale

JP Construction

150 N. Radnor Chester Rd.

JW Construction & Remodeling Services LLC

6018 Jonestown Rd

KC Construction

454 Elizabeth Street


1480 Pine Tree Ave

Kroah Remodeling

5222 Woodlawn Drive

KWH Home Improvements

3 Reynolds Street

Lanco Construction Co

13 Shybrook Ct

larrys remodeling & repair llc

1780 Trinity Rd

Leeper Construction

13 South 4th Street

Lisa Bacon (Home Improvements)

3221 Davidsburg Rd.

Madison Homes Group, Inc.

405 Bridge St.
New Cumberland

Mark 1 Restoration Service Inc

355 Eastern Dr

Maxim Contractors

10387 Jonestown Rd

Minnick Wall Solutions Inc

46 Camellia Ct

morret construction

2 albert lane

MT Weatherization

621 Laudermilch Rd

Nest Care Construction

1111 S Prince st

Olde Glory Contractors Inc

3830 C Baltimore Pike


4450 Paxton St

Premier Siding & Roofing

2457 Perkiomen Ave

Property Service

116 reo ave

QDI - Quality Degree Inc

135 N 4th Ave

R R Kling and Sons LLC

4522 N Sherman Street Ext
Mount Wolf

R. S. Hoffman HVAC

82 Linda Dr.

R.T. Farner Home Improvements

4608 Marblehead Street

ReMod Squad

1721 Mountain Road


Camp Hill

Remodels by Shay

1101 Stoney Creek Rd

Revitalize Remodeling

116 Spruce St

Ridge Craft Cupolas

280 Commerce DR
New Holland





SECCO Home Services

1111 Primrose Ave
Camp Hill

Sholl Carpentry & Construction

2310 Bell Drive

Shreveco Building & Remodeling

616 Sylvan Place


605 E Butter Rd

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smart Home Comfort

P.O. Box 773

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Spring Valley Services LLC

3522 Indian Rock Dam Rd

Sun Rays Electric

8 Green St

Superior Insulation

PO BOX 602



tate services


Terminix - Lancaster

262 Granite Run Dr


220 FOX DR

The Village Green

420 W. Grant St.

Tradesman Drywall

4309 Linglestown Rd



Trout Squared Construction

955 Hummel Ave



UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2221 Sycamore St

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

340 W Roseville Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100



WeatherGuard Exteriors

801 North St

WellHome of Harrisburg

4400 Lewis Rd



William Penn Renovation Co

259 Burn Hill Rd
Shermans Dale


PO Box 405

Window World of Central PA

1650 Whiteford Rd

WM Buffington Company Inc

115 Lusk Ave

Xtreme Home Improvement

34 Valley Dr

Your Remodeling Guys

3679 Concord Rd

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