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Over 25,273 reviews for
Baltimore Flooring Contractors from people just like you.

"Grant and team were excellent. They arrived on time, completed all of the work within the time estimated and did an exceptional job. The work by far exceeded all" of my expectations and I couldn't be happy. I highly recommend them.

-Amnesty L.

"The experience was very smooth. The owner was the one that came by. He recommended the mid-grade and did not try to up sell us. He was very professional and courteous." The day it was installed, it was completed very quickly. We are very satisfied with the product.

-Justin G.

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Local Articles in Baltimore

Check Out These Green Flooring Options

If you're looking for eco-friendly flooring, research the composition of the flooring, as well as the adhesives and glues.

bamboo flooring in a home

Wood Floor Alternatives

Consumers have many choices beyond traditional hardwood floors, including wood laminate and renewable sources such as bamboo, cork and even leather. Some alternatives look virtually the same as hardwoods.

carpet padding

Carpet padding stuck to your hardwood floors? Angie explains why carpet padding often adheres to hardwood flooring and provides tips for removal.

This member hired a highly rated company to clean four rooms and "significant stains" on her Berber carpet. (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Jody F. of Roswell, Ga.)

Berber carpet remains a resilient, attractive option for any basement space, but is it also easy to clean? Which type will suit your space best?

hardwood flooring and a fireplace

Learn how to decide whether to repair or replace hardwood flooring in your home.

Tile flooring in a bathroom
Flooring Sales/Installation/Repair

Here are flooring options to consider for bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens, basements and other areas prone to getting wet.

Inspiration & Ideas

bedroom with chair
master bedroom with bathroom
master bedroom with hardwood floors
master bedroom with wood floors
master bedroom
master bedroom with large windows

Angie's Answers

From the wall street journal online:

"Etiquette and tipping experts agree that tipping a contractor and his employees isn't expected because contractors offer to do a job for you at a specific price. Any extra money they would want would be built into their bid. Also, it's a business relationship rather than one where they are performing a personal service for you like a waiter or a maid. But if the employees do extra jobs around the house, then experts say it is appropriate to tip a cash amount equivalent to the task; "tip gifts" such as cookies and drinks can count. "The key to tipping is whether or not it was outside the scope of what was normally expected," says Mark Brenner, author of "Tipping for Success!"

My opinion is that a little bit of courtesy (snacks, drinks, expression of appreciation etc.) goes a long way and upon completion of their work you feel compelled by a job well done to offer a little extra in the form of a tip - go for it, but do not feel obligated. 

I agree with Ben, as usual. First, test your slab - put a sheet of plastic over it, at least 3 feet square, taped down to the slab all around - leave for 3 days. If the slab darkens with moisture, or there is any condensation drops on the underside of the plastic, you have a damp slab. If you have visible moisture or moisture discoloration at any time during the course of the seasons with exposed concrete slab, then you have a wet slab. Even just a damp slab can put several quarts of moisture passingfrom the ground through the concrete into the air per day, and a wet basement slab in contact with wster at its base  can generate as much as 10 gallons a day of air moisture - which means that pretty much anything placed on it WILL get damp enough to mildew or mold.


For a wet slab, a polished concrete or epoxy/polyurea surface is your best bet. Any other surfacing you put over it is likely to mold. Ceramic tile with waterproofing additives in the mortar mix can work if the surface is properly prepared for good bonding, and you use "plastic" thinset and grout rather than cement based grout. Basically has to be done the same way as for a gymnasium shower floor or pool deck to work right.


For a damp slab, assuming it NEVER actually gets wet either from high water table under it in wet season, or from surface flooding from foundation leakage, then you have several options:


1) As Ben says, Pergo and others make totally plastic flooring material in a variety of surfaces that can be put down on a smooth slab over a vapor barrier and totally inorganic plastic padding - looks like bubble wrap commonly. Does not guarantee mold will not form between the vapor barrier and the concrete. IF you use a snap flooring version, can be taken up if it gets saturated and dried, then put back in. Not so with glued or nailed versions. Some people also use snap or interlock together rubber or foam flooring over a vapor barrier, particularly in rec rooms, which can be taken up easily in event of flood. 


2) A vapor barrier under an inorganic pad as above, overlain with an open-weave backing synthetic fiber (nylon, rayon) carpet with NO natural materials in it, which has lots of breathing space in the weave can work. I have used open-weave backing short-pile 100% nylon carpet from Armstrong in my basement for about 30 years, with vapor-barrier floor paint but no plastic sheet vapor barrier or padding and never a mildew problem, even though the plastic sheet test did show a minor amount of condensation. The key is a breathable carpet and decent airflow in the basement.


3) Any other type of flooring - laminate, vinyl, hardwood, etc will act to xxxx vapor evaporation, so risk mildew/mold under them. You can put down a sealer on the concrete and a vapor barrier and frequently get satisfactory service in a low moisture slab - generally only ones that are at or above surrounding ground level, but you always have the risk of mildew, and if ever flooded are pretty much trash. If you use a sheet product, use plastic, not organic - so vinyl, not linoleum, for instance. I have successfully done asphaltic based vinyl tiles and vinyl sheet using asphalt adhesive - the 1970's method - on damp flooring without trouble, but you have to make sure the concrete is VERY well sealed first with multiple penetrating coats of sealant placed on ground concrete surface so there is open voids for the sealant to penetrate, then let sit a week or more untouched and unwalked on before putting down the asphaltic-bonded tiles or sheet. The key is to make sure the concrete is less permeable to moisture than the overlying material. If you use a non-asphaltic adhesive (because of smell issues or allergies), then I would recommend full-adhesion waterproof mastic, not spot-adhered or glueless, so there are no air gaps under the sheet to accumualte moisture and mildew.


4) Of course, in new construction, if a full edge-bonded heavy duty plastic liner is put in the bedding sand layer UNDER the slab, that can turn a potentially wet or damp situation into a basically dry one, allowing almost any type of flooring to be used, though I NEVER recommend hardwood over below- or on-grade slabs. Of course, in a basement, one should probably assume that at some point it will get at least partially flooded from foundstion leak or pipe failure, so polished or stained or coated concrete, tile, or removeable flooring is the most likely to survive that.


5) Another option, in pretty much either case if your ventilation system removes the vapor as fast as the concrete can supply it, is padless thick open-weave area rug with a "Miller Weave", "Open Back", "Berber" or "Rag Rug" construction - which have lots of air holes in the rug and backing to let the moisture through. Then if getting damp or floods, just roll up and take out to garage and drape over some elevated 2x4's across sawhorses to dry out. Again, start with good concrete sealing first - preferably deep sealant with compatible epoxy surface coat to minimize water transmission.

I agree with your choice - this is about the only product that can realistically, for a large room, be taken out and cleaned up after a flood and reused, thouhg carpet can be if you strip it into smaller pieces to carry wet, AND you have somewhere to wash and dry it - that is usually the problem. However, bear in mind it still has to be done within about 2 days or mildew/mold will grow on it, and may or may not be totally removeable. My personal preferences - mostly because their products are consistent, the joints stay snapped together, and they are not overly soft (a problem with cheap vinyls) are Pergo, Tarkett, Armstrong. Whatever you buy, be sure it can come back apart - some plank products are not made with a self-adhering contact glue in the joints that prevent you from taking it apart again, and some brands their snap design, while maybe better at preventing joint separation, cannot feasibly be unsnapped without tearing or breaking it off. Also, be sure whatever brandname and product line you choose it 100% vinyl (other than the urethane surface protective layer) - many vinyl floor products have paper or fiber cores or other water-absorbing components. Remember that, on concrete, since it wicks soil moisture through it, you till need a 6 mil vapor barrier under the flooring and positively sealed all around the edges to avoid the risk of mold growing on the underside of the vinyl.
Agreed.  If you have existing cracking in porcelain you need to know the cause first.  I don't know of any reputable contractor that would dare install tile over existing tile.  Also, any manufacturer warranties for defects would be null due to improper installation.  Did the contractor offer this solution or did you ask for it?  The mear fact that he is agreeing to or offering it tells me you need to leave this guy for someone who knows what they are talking about before he does only half the job which will have to be redone in the near future, costing you more in the long run.

I get so many calls from customers that were talked into a "cheaper" way to do something only to find the work very sub-par.  The sad part is they are out the money they spent in the first place along with the additional amount I have to charge just to undo what the first contractor did before I can do it right.  This floor could end up costing you double what it should if it's not done right.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

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Flooring reviews in Baltimore


Grant says he's scheduling work out 3-4 weeks at this time. He does not use subcontractors and does all the work himself with an assistant. He has been in the business for years and is very knowledgeable about all aspects of tile and grout. He makes recommendations based on his extensive experience that seem very reasonable to me. He will be able ...More to provide a cost estimate for the work I need done once I select the tile I prefer for the back-splash. He said that if I pick a straight-forward design, it should take one day to complete, but if I pick a design with various colors and shapes it may take longer to layout, cut and install. Bonus for us is that Grant is dog-friendly- we have a disruptive chihuahua and he was completely un-fazed and actually made friends with our feisty pup.

These guys did a great job of refinishing the floors on the second floor of our house. Just before they were scheduled to start, we asked if they could put oak boards down in a closet that had a pretty rough old floor. They managed to accommodate our request for a very reasonable price. They were professional and hard working, and we are very happy ...More with how the work turned out. The floors look great.
- Michael B.

Numerous (6 or more) calls to the owner, were rejected by her or her coworkers. Multiple attempts to speak to regarding our poor carpet installation and customer service were completely ignored. lack of decency toward returning our calls and their poor carpet installation is a ...More blight on the flooring profession.
- Brent D.

They recommended a source for flooring materials. When we visited the establishment the prices were very high. We checked with the provider and he was okay with our going to another source. This delayed the installation somewhat. . We got our flooring for less than half the price of the first estimate. The company came when we scheduled, worked ...More all day and did a very nice job on the flooring. They were unable to complete the flooring in the laundry room because of a problem moving the dryer. although the installation looks very nice, there was a problem with three exposed nails at the top of the stairs. when I called they were very nice and promised to come out to fix the exposed nails and complete the laundry room flooring installation. Although I have reviewed the company the work has not been completed and I will complete the review upon completion of the work.
- Jeannine O.

I made an appointment for the owner to check the floor and confirm what could be done and that my voucher would cover it. (Full price would have been $400 for up to 200 square feet; I had a voucher for 50% off.) The owner arrived promptly and was helpful, friendly, and professional. We made the appointment for the actual work. A different person showed ...More up, also very friendly and helpful. I believe he did the process just as it should be done, but I was a little disappointed with the results. The floor definitely looks better, but it still looks patchy where the previous finish had worn off, and there are still paint in a couple spots. (I did specifically ask about the patches and was told they would be fixed, and while they are a bit better, they are still quite visible. However, I may have had overly high expectations of the results.) The claim of minimal disruption is true; you can walk on the floor within hours, and there is no awful smell. The process is not a substitute for sanding or even buffing, but if your floor is in good enough shape that sanding isn't needed, this chemical process will return the shine. For that, seems to be a good company.
- Phoebe B.

I went to , because the ads with and cracked me up. I stayed because of the quality of the flooring and the responsiveness of my salesman, . was so helpful, and very patient as I and my friends looked at every type of flooring. ...More I took home a couple of samples, and finally settled on Mannington Adura tile, which is a resilient tile of 75% limestone and 25% vinyl. It is easy on the legs, and neither it nor objects dropped on it will break. The man who came to measure the kitchen was so very helpful and professional. and (or K.C.?) arrived to do the installation, and they immediately set to work. They moved my kitchen table and a tall cabinet out of the room. They left the refrigerator in the kitchen, and only needed to unplug it and move it for short periods of time. When they realized how much underlayment was involved, they went to Home Depot to buy plastic drop cloths to try and protect my kitchen cabinets from dust. The amount of dust was unbelievable, but they kept the kitchen doors closed to try and minimize the dust to the rest of the house. The first day and part of the second was spent on removing the two layers of vinyl flooring and two layers of underlayment. The second day was spent on laying the new tiles. They did a fabulous job, especially considering that my kitchen has several challenges, such as radiators and a chimney bump-out. The grout line is thin (1/8th inch) which is what I wanted to define the tiles, but not be thick lines. I bought the 12 x 24 tiles, and they were laid offset, so the floor looks very interesting and beautiful. They even moved my 1940's era very carefully, and tiled under it to the wall. It had only been sitting on plywood, because none of the other contractors who had laid the previous floors wanted to deal with it. I had paid for four layers of vinyl to be removed, but when and were removing the layers, they said that if I removed all of the layers, the floor would not be level with the living room and dining room. I realized that they were the experts, and was guided by their recommendation. I called the office and spoke to and , and they are going to reimburse me for the labor charges for removing the other two layers which did not need to be removed. My house was built in 1929, and the kitchen was last remodeled in 1952, so I have all retro appliances and cabinets. This floor has updated the kitchen, but looks just right in the retro kitchen, against the white trim and cabinets, and soft green walls. This was a wonderful experience from start to finish. I can't say enough good things about the quality and service from staff. Their selection of flooring materials is extensive and of great quality. I never go to the big box stores when I am renovating, as I don't want contractor-grade materials. I want good quality materials that will last. When I am ready to carpet the hallways and bedrooms, I won't go anywhere else but back to .

- Kathy C.

I chose this deal because of the good reviews on Angie's List. The owner was very personable and communicated well before the job. The deal included labor and materials. If you chose to purchase the tile yourself, they offered an $80 tile allowance. I purchased some high end charcoal colored 12x12 porcelain tile. When he came to look at the ...More job, he told me that I would have to pay extra for moving the toilet and the parts required for reinstalling it. He also told me that I would have to buy the grout. He specified unsanded grout. I bought Custom Building Products charcoal unsanded grout at Home Depot. I am a retired designer and have specified their products on residential and large commercial projects for over forty five years.
When he and his helper came on a Friday, I asked them if they were going to work on Saturday. He said that they were going to try to finish the floor in one day. They worked all day and finished in the late afternoon. They said it couldn't be walked on until the following morning, and took several days to cure completely, which I know was the case from previous experience. I looked at the bathroom from the door but did not go inside.
As they were getting ready to pack up and leave, I noticed a 12 foot scratch on the original 115 year old parquet floor where they had moved their equipment from the front of the dining area to the mats that I had put out at the back door to the courtyard. I quickly pointed it out to them. At first they denied it could have happened, then the helper tried to put some oil on it. I stopped him and said that it would have to be treated by a professional. The owner said that they had a professional wood floor refinisher and would send him out to correct it. Then I saw that they had not cleaned up the spots they left on the dark green deck floor and stairs and I asked them to clean it up before they left. He said, "Well, I'm not going to scrub it!" and took the hose and washed it. That didn't work and I haven't been able to clean it. I am going to have to have it refinished.
The next morning I went into the bathroom and found that the grout was uneven, ranging from black to light grey, there were lumps of dried grout on the surface of the tile at the back of the bathroom and there was grout powder all over my feet from the surface of the floor. The where the tile met the wall at the back of the bathroom was a mess and the charcoal color had leached into the white grout on the tile walls throughout. I got my cell phone and took photos and texted them to him showing him the splotches if dried grout, the uneven color of the grout lines and the sponge that was black from cleaning with water on only four tiles.
.From then on, I called, emailed and texted him asking him to come out and fix the problems. On only one occasion did he answer and tell me that he could come out and redo the grout, but I would have to pay him to do so. He also emailed me that he had talked to his refinisher and that he would call to make an appointment to come out. He didn't call, so I called him and made an appointment. He was supposed to come out last Friday evening, but didn't show up. All other attempts to communicate have gone unanswered.
I spoke to the technical support people at Custom Building Products. They told me that the problem was efflorescence and there were several things that could cause blotchy grout color: too much water added in mixing the grout, improper cleaning by wiping too soon and with too much water, improper mixing of the grout by not using the right amount of water, adding water after the first mixing (rehydrating), inadequate cleaning of the sponges. The installer insisted that he had followed proper procedure, but when I looked at the instructions, I saw that he was required to wait 2 hours to wipe the haze off the tile and seal after 3 days. I know he didn't wait 2 hours because he was working full time and was eager to finish and, needless to say, the grout was not sealed.
I researched what could be done to correct the grout color and found that, if the grout is not sealed, you can return the grout back to near it's original color through the use of a "grout stain", which is available from the manufacturer. As a matter of fact, Custom makes a grout product that guarantees even color. It is more expensive, but he didn't pay for the grout, I did. This is good information for anyone who wants to avoid this problem.
I explained this in detail because I feel that a company with the reviews I saw on Angie's List should maintain their reputation and correct an unacceptable outcome such as this. I am referring the problem to Angie's list complaint department in the hopes that they can accomplish what I have been unable to.

He did an excellent job and we would highly recommend him to anyone. He was very thorough and fair in his prices and did excellent work.
- Charles B.

Flooring Contractors in Baltimore

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Ruxton Design & Build LLC

14943 York Rd

rw flooring

RW Flooring

Ryan Construction Co

8920 Avenue B
Sparrows Point


308 Greenway
Bel Air



Sand Free Baltimore

413 North Chapel Gate Ln.

Sandman Floors

PO Box 443

Santos Contracting, LLC

301 Coldbrook Rd
Lutherville Timonium

Savon Contracting

111 Church Rd.
Owings Mills


1700 Ridgely Street

Seven Winds LLC

10222 Parsonage Lane, PO Box 432
New Windsor

Shadow industries inc

825 eastern blvd

Sharkys Construction Inc.

1700 S Haven St Ste 1

SHEREMOS home remodeling and renovations

1819 W. Saratoga st

Shore Side Carpet & Flooring

356 Romancoke Rd.

SI Restoration

2312 Eskow Ave Ste 2

Signature Contracting, LLC

7385 Saw Mill Road


57 W Timonium Rd.
Lutherville Timonium


4843 Vicky Rd

Signature WoodCrafters

6612 James Madison Hwy


907 S ANN ST


6631 Cedar Lane



Sir Grout of Baltimore

Tanglewood Dr

SK Flooring

5716 gischel St

Smart Home Services

15 W. Aylesbury Rd.
Lutherville Timonium



Sport Court Mid Atlantic

2900 Hammonds Ferry Rd

Stanley Steemer

23 Commerce Pkwy


1104C Russell St

Starcom Design Build Corporation

8835 Columbia 100 Pkwy

Steck Building Remodeling and Flooring Co.

2428 Edwards Manor Dr
Forest Hill

Stevie Carpet Steamer

5321 Selfridge Ave

Stewart Enterprises Inc

621 E Central Ave

Straka Contracting LLC

4428 Brittany Dr
Ellicott City

Stuart Kitchens

1858 Reisterstown Road

Surewood builders, llc

4267 Arthur shipleyroad

SV Carpet Cleaning LLC

2909 charing cross rd apt 14

Synergy Home Improvement

2519 Maryland Avenue

T M Carpet

6120 Old Frederick Rd

T.M. Maintenance LLC

9375 Bremerton Way
Montgomery Village

Tag Restoration

418 South Bond St

Tasman Handyman Svc

2323 West Lanvale St

Taylor Made Custom Contracting Inc

1944 Nelson Mill Rd



The Design Therapist

6929 Linden Ave

The Grout Medic - NW Baltimore/ AA County

806 Barkwood Court
Linthicum Heights

The John E. Ruth Co.

5621 Old Frederick Road

The Painting Company LLC

10700 home Acers tern

The Rugman Carpet & Services

1900 Lansdowne Rd

The Tile Guy

3202 Elliott Dr

The Village Carpenter

PO Box 285

Thomas & Thomas Homeprovement

3704 Old Milford Mill rd

Thornton Home Improvement Inc

5850 Waterloo Rd Ste 140

Tile Masters

6009 Snowdens Run Rd


4701 Avatar Lane
Owings Mills

Tom Moran Floors


Top Flight Floors Inc

88 E Padonia Rd 203

Total Restoration

7413 Alvah Avenue, Apartment D

Trademark Construction, LLC

6806 Eastern Ave


RR 140

Ultimate Flooring Design Center

8251 Telegraph Rd

Ultimate Home Concepts

95 Matthews Ave

Unique Enterprises Inc

5841 Shookstown Rd

Unique Refinishing

11 Jessie Ct


917 S Hanover St

Unique Resources Inc

917 S Hanover St

Universal Maintenance

65173 Seventh Road

US Asphalt & Concrete

PO Box 1490
Severna Park

US Professional Contractors llc

603 7TH ST SUITE 102

USA Pro Floors LLC

1900 Armor Ct

VKB Kitchen & Bath

6955 Oakland Mills Rd


3304 marnat road

W F Drywall & Painting

4309 Winners Circle

Walbrook Flooring

2103 Garrison Blvd.



Ward's Floor and More

7855 Kings Bench Place

Warehouse Tile & Carpet

2709 N Point Rd




700 William Street

Wise Choice Contracting

1555 Farlow Ave

Wood Floors Plus

50 Orchard Rd
Glen Burnie

Wood Guyz and More

3726 6th ave



Xpress Floors Plus

8328 Veterans Hwy

Yasa Floors & Countertops

210 Rivers Edge Dr.



Your Handy Man & More LLC

33 Norwick Cir
Lutherville Timonium

Your Home Solution LLC

1906 Robby Ct

Your Honest Handyman

15714 Hanover Pike

Zero handyman Services

4346 Shamrock Ave

Zigi Home Remodeling

2718 Piscataway Run Dr

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