What Is Tire Dry Rot?

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Robert Kowalski

Subject:

I have found that using a rubber spray called Flex Seal works very well for sealing and prolonging of tires with dry rot even in the hot weather and its pretty tough to its like adding your own new layers of rubber well its worked for me and its been added in the coldest winters and holds air at pressure and I have no worries of getting flats or loss of air in tires if this helps you great

charles reese

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I own a - Truck and don`t want to say the name just yet . When I bought the Truck and started the routine of bringing it in for service it started out well . Within a short amount of time my Dealer started gouging me and trying to charge me for service that was supposed to come with the Vehicle Package . I read over the owners Manual and it was supposed to come with a small amount of Touch-Up Paint but it didn`t have any and when I asked the Dealer for some I was told that they would have to order it . That order took the entire winter and into spring . On my next service I was told that the paint came in . I had forgotten about it and when I went to check out I was shocked to see the price ! They charged me an un-godly amount of money for it ! Needless to say I didn`t take the Paint ! After another few Service Calls I was told that 3 out of 4 Tires were dry Rotted and I didn`t believe them ! I asked about my Spare and was told that they hadn`t looked yet . I made him take me out there to show me . I could not tell anything about any Dry- rott but he showed me one tire that just didn`t seem as the others did . That was my spare Tire . I keep it serviced as it is supposed to be maybe even a little sooner than is called for . On every other Service I ask them to rotate and balance my tires . The spiel is they informed me that all Tires need replaced and gave me a price of over $1200.00 bucks . Not counting the spare . I asked why so much and was told that they can`t get the tires that I had and had to go to a more expensive one and a different Manufacture ! Here it goes ! First off this is a brand new Truck and it wasn`t cheap ! Second off , it only had 18,000 miles and they were supposed to be 60,000 mile Tires ! Third off , I had an extended warranty to cover the cost of anything that might happen before I finish getting it paid off ! Fourth off , He stated that most people didn`t bother to get extra warranty and that my warranty was gone and that my tire warranty was past due ! At this point I know that he is up to no good ! At this point I told him that I had only had the Truck for under 2 years and that I purchased the warranty to cover the cost until I had it paid off ! It was a 6 year payment and it was a Limited Addition 4/4 Crew Cab with absolutely everything that you can think of to put in a Vehicle ! A full lifetime limited Warranty with 36,000 or 3 years on the Tires ! He called me a liar and said that I had changed the Tires that were on the Truck because the Tires on there didn`t go with that Truck ! He said that he knew that I had put many more miles on those Tires and I didn`t qualify for the Tire rebate or Warranty by the Manufacture ! I`am angry and I told him that I want to talk to the main Manager as he stormed off ! When I sat down with the Manager I told them that I didn`t appreciate being called a liar . I then took out my purchase order with the Original Window Sticker that was on the Truck ! I told her that I had the window sticker that came with my Truck for just these kind of situations ! Although I bought the Truck at a different Dealer I knew where the Truck was coming from ! This very same Dealer that pulled all of this ! Absolutely unbelievablei , the crap he pulled just to get more and more money ! The sad part was that I continued to go to them and paid for service and oil changes that were covered under my Warranty ! I told the main Manager that this guy was going to cost her some business ! By the way they still made me pay for (2) Tires , one Tire and the Spare and the mounting and balancing for all four Tires ! When I got home I called the Manufacture and filed a complaint and now looking for another Honest Dealer to go to !

S L Ferguson

Subject:

Question* Is it a good move to examine the interior of the tire to determine the depth of the dryrot to the tire cord to get a better analysis, of the risk. I have a classic car with extremely low miles, tires have good deep tread and the spare has never hit the ground.

CHUCK SHUMAKER

Subject:

Most newer vehicles that have tires with dry rot that I see in my auto repair/tire shop are Michelin, Uniroyal, Good year and a lot of chinese tires. I feel its due to cheaper quality of rubber and also how the tire is made. Michelin tires don't last like Michelin tires used to. If you drive approx. 1,000 per month the tires are only going to last about 25 to 35,000 miles. Dry rot shouldn't be an issue. If they do the tire manufacturer usually has a 3 year warranty on dry rot. Better safe than sorry I look at it. I recommend replacing the tires when they have 25% of the tread left to be on the safe side, tire manufacturer tread wear warranties usually cover the tires at that point. If you store you vehicle it would be best to raise the vehicle and keep the weight off of the tires. In most cases that's too much work or not possible. Remember, especially if it's a performance vehicle. And you decide to go speeding down the road since it's a nice day out. If your gonna play your gonna have to pay. keep good rubber on it.

Cheryl Loiacono

Subject:

I live in South Carolina and my 2 year old expensive tires have dry rot.
Can someone recommend maybe a driveway coating that might help this?
No room in my garage for a 2004 Toyota 4Runner.....I just spent $600 that I really needed for Christmas gifts and I don't know what to do to try and prevent this from happening again. Can someone please help me figure this out?

Jack Lamphier

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My 2010 Ford Escape, bought new, now has 10000 miles on it. Is it time to replace tires ?

Bob

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I worked on fighter jets for years and seldom seen one fly without some write up in the forms. I drive 50 miles one way and have never had a tire need to be replaced for being bald with out having some cracks in the sidewalls. I have never had a blow out; there must be some safe level of sidewall cracking. Many of the types of jobs I do have moved to China, so I don’t get paid so much. Change a tire at the sign of any cracks, are you going to pay for it! Better to get a guide of what is really bad and what is not. Many of us working poor do put the old tires on the back, we drive to the conditions so we do not worry about under or over steer, we put them in the back cause it’s safer if the do blow out.

stephan

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Will fix it flat lift the tires if you have dry rot just to get it on an auto carrier

Rick A.

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I have a second car and drive it a few times per week but only about 2500 miles/year. DOT code on sidewall is March - 2008, making tires over 7 years old. My mechanic suggests that dry rot appears to be starting. Should I drive the 1,000 miles to Philadelphia from Florida without replacing the tires chancing an interstate failure?

Steve w.

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Absolutely not- highway speeds are when blowouts occur. It's not worth the risk. Driving around town at low speeds you can get by driving on tires that have just started to show minor cracking. Replace asap before it gets worse.

Mickey Slack

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I have foam rubber parts on my Kayak carrier which is mounted on top my X-Terra, what can I use to rub on the rubber to prevent damage from sitting in sun all the time. I live in south west Florida.

Dalton Davis

Subject:

Some of what appears in the "How to prevent tire dry rot" article are simply inaccurate. It is true that dry rot is the result of exposure to the sun and high temperatures over time. The exposure results in the evaporation of the petroleum products that are necessary to bind rubber molecules together. These petroleum products evaporate over time and result in a break in the bond of the rubber molecules which presents itself as cracks in the surface of the rubber.
It can be simply thought of as the result of mud being exposed continuously to the sun. Water is the bonding agent for the particles of dirt that produce mud. When the water evaporates the bond between the particles of dirt in the mud breaks down, the dirt shrinks, and cracks are formed in the drying mud.
Low tire inflation does not directly result in dry rot. However, low tire inflation does result in excessive heat and tire sidewall and tread de-formation which exacerbates the dry rot condition by excessively stretching of the rubber in undesirable ways thus contributing to the cracking.
As far as repairing dry rot is concerned, I can tell you as an aviation maintenance technician with more than 20 years of experience on large commercial jets, that dry rot is not routinely re-parable and no professional in the automotive or aviation industries attempts to effect such a repair. In addition, in many jurisdictions dry rot is cause for tire rejection during a vehicle inspection since dry rot has the potential to cause a catastrophic tire failure.
With respect to storage it is much the same as putting meat in your freezer; the cold temperature, unless it is extremely low, only delays the rotting process and does not prevent it. As for tire inflation the inflation stretches the tire rubber which as previously indicated exacerbates dry rot. If tires are mounted on rims it is better to deflate to minimum pressure them and store them by suspending them off the ground so that the weight of the rim and the tire itself does not de-form the tire and the uniformity of the low-pressure helps keep the tire' s shape.

brian f. ross

Subject:

Who is more liable for extremely dry rotted car tires on a brand new 2010 model excluding customer negligence ? the manufacturer who supplies the dealership with their stock or the dearships themselves is the a way to determine ?

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had


?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


?
I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.
?

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.