Understanding How a Chemical Peel Works
The chemical solution used in a chemical peel removes the damaged outer layers of skin so that new, better-appearing skin grows. See if it's right for you.
If you have damaged skin, a chemical peel can remove your skin's damaged outer layers so that new, undamaged skin grows. A peel can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, light scars, blemishes, brown spots and other irregular skin pigmentation. Although peels are used mostly on the face, you can also use them to improve the skin on your neck and hands.
Chemical peels can be light, medium or deep. While you can buy at-home light peels or get one from an esthetician, you typically need to see a dermatologist for a medium or deep peel.
Light peels
A light peel removes skin cells from the epidermis (the outer layer of skin) using light exfoliation. These peels typically contain the relatively mild chemicals of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA).
A light peel starts by cleansing your face and then applying the peel solution to your skin. The solution stays on for up to 10 minutes and may cause some mild stinging.
Your face may appear red for a few days after the peel. You may need a series of light peels to achieve your desired results.
Medium peels
A medium peel removes skin cells from the epidermis and from the upper layer of the dermis. These peels contain trichloroacetic acid, sometimes combined with glycolic acid (an AHA), and create a second-degree burn on the skin.
The procedure is the same as the light peel, with facial cleansing followed by application of the peel, although this peel only stays on for a few minutes and the treated skin may turn whitish gray.
This peel causes some swelling, and you may need to take a few days to recover. Initially, your skin may appear red or brown and may not look normal for six weeks. It's OK to have a medium peel every six to 12 months.
Deep peels
A deep peel can address deeper skin issues. Deep peels contain phenol, a strong chemical that can penetrate into the lower layer of your dermis. These peels cause a deeper second-degree burn than a medium peel.
Deep peels usually involve up to eight weeks of pretreatment to prepare your skin. This treatment may include using Retin A (a prescription AHA) or another medication to thin the surface of your skin, so that the chemical peel can soak more evenly and deeply into your skin.
On the day of the peel, you typically receive a sedative and local anesthesia to your face. After your face is cleansed, the chemical is applied and remains on the skin for 30 minutes to two hours. After the peel is removed, you rest for an hour, and a crust develops on your skin. You then have a thick layer of petroleum jelly, which remains on the skin for up to two days, applied to your skin. If you have severe wrinkling, instead of petroleum jelly, your doctor will probably cover your skin with adhesive tape strips.
Deep peels cause redness, peeling and discomfort for a few days, so you will receive painkillers, and you'll need to take a few days off from regular activities. The swelling typically goes away in two weeks, but the skin redness may remain for as long as three months.
Cautions and side effects
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, a chemical peel may not be right for you if you have used certain acne treatments in the past year. Other contraindication include warts on your face, abnormal pigmentation or a history of skin scarring. Peels also may be inadvisable for certain types of skin, such as Afro-Caribbean or Asian skin or the freckled pale skin of people with red hair.
Follow your doctor's care instructions after a peel so your skin heals properly without side effects. Possible complications include infection, scarring, numbness, turning out of the lower eyelid and heart rhythm problems. Also, the color or texture of your skin may change, pimples may develop or the treated area may remain permanently red.
Cost
The average surgeon fee for a chemical peel in 2011 was $588, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Additional costs may include fees for the surgical facility, anesthesia and medications. Deep peels cost more than light peels. A light home peel or one from an esthetician is likely to cost between $75 and $150.
