Refrigerator is Not Cooling But Freezer is Cold?

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marche

Subject: fridge freeze bt the bottom don't cool its warm

I was busy painting my kitchen nd I move the fridge bt didn't unplug it so the evening when I move the fridge back the half of the fridge board was frozen nd the other half was warm now the freezer is still workin but the bottom part of the fridge is still warm can you please tell me what is the problem did I hurt the fridge while moving it

BeAtriz

Subject: Fridgerator issue

My fridgerator has problem the top part of my fridge works perfectly fine it freezes and the bottom part is just warm i unplugg and plugg back in it use to work the method like months ago now it seems not to work what should do can something be fix by me instead of calling someone to see what wrong

Carly

Subject: Freezer cold; refrigerator warm

Our freezer is cold, but isn't freezing and then our refrigerator is warm. Anything that we could maybe fix at home or for low cost? Everything seems to be working normal on it except that.

Jon

Subject: My freezer is cold but my refrigerator stays warm

For this problem, don't forget the defrost timer. It switches off the compressor and turns on the defrost heater. It is just like a mechanical clock timer, usually running in a perpetual cycle something like 8-10 hours of cooling, then switching one the defrost heater for around 10-15 minutes. It fails, just like regular mechanical timer clocks. They're a common OEM replacement part, but I replaced mine with a generic electronic one from Supco for about $10. It doesn't have the mechanical clock mechanism. Time will tell how well it holds up. To determine that this was the problem, I had been unplugging the fridge when the it got to 50 degrees and higher, letting it sit at least overnight, then plugging it back in. Invariably, it would be fine again for around a month, down easily below 40 degrees in the fridge section, then slowly creep back up to 50 and more. Repeating this process always worked, so I knew I was doing a manual defrost. This is a cheap, easy fix. Just unplug the fridge to replace the part. Might be a challenge finding where it is mounted though....

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If the ducts are venting through a window I'm assuming the duct work is all easily accessible.  Lowe's and Home Depot sell a cleaning kit that uses an electric drill to spin the brush as it goes through the ductwork.  I've found it to work quite well and you can do it yourself.  It may take a few passes the first time to get everything out if it has been a while since it was last cleaned.  Just make sure you get all of the loose lint out after running the brush through from both ends and you're good to go.  Please note that if the line is not hard but rather a flex duct line you can easily puncture a whole in it with this kit and will do better to clean it by hand.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
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Since you asked this question over a year ago, I'm pretty sure you've already made your decision but I'd like to offer you some advice.  You mentioned your husband vacuumed the coils and it worked for a couple more weeks.  Chances are the condenser coils were very dirty when he did this.  When refrigerator condenser coils are dirty, the compressor overheats and heat will cause a compressor to fail prematurely.  You should vacuum or blow out your condenser coils regularly.  Today's refrigerator compressors are not made to last like they were in the past.  I remember when it wasn't unusual for a compressor to last 30 years.  You won't see that happen with the way refrigerator compressors are made today.  Regular cleaning of your condenser coils is crucial in preventing premature failure of your compressor.  For more tips, check out my article here on Angie's list titled "How To Avoid Appliance Repairs"

 

-Bob Meadows/B&D Appliance Repair Service/Palmdale, CA

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When you say flame is blue, I presume you mean the pilot light while you are holding down the start button - which means you are getting gas OK to the gas controller and the pilot.I presume the flame is steady and not wavering all around, which fails to keep the thermocouple hot enough to work. The flame should be about 3/4-1 inch tall in most furnaces - if a tiny flame, you might have to adjust the pilot gas flow a bit higher - google for the owners manual for your model at the manufacturers website or a site like Sears.

I presume you know it can take up to a minute or so for the thermocouple to heat enough to keep the flame going when you release the start button ? So hold the button down for at least a minute after lighting the pilot before releasing the start button.

Is the thermocouple tip sticking 1/3-1/2 its length into the blue of the flame ? If only the very tip is in, or only into the very pale almost transparent green-blue-red base of the flame, then the air flowing by to the flame can keep it cold enough it may not get hot enough to tell the gas controller that the pilot is lit.

IF not that, unscrew the flex tube from the gas controller. Then slide the fastening nut back a bit on the tubing, insert the tube tip up into the hole, MAKING SURE TUBE IS STRAIGHT AND IT IS GOING ALL THE WAY TO BOTTOM and not just hanging up on the threads. Then, while holding the tube in tightly, slide the nut up the tubing and screw it in, tightening down snuggly but without overtightening - just barely wrench tight - do not reef on it, just a bit more than hand tight. If you overtighten you can deform it, causing it to short out. Try to light pilot again. Frequently, when people put the tube and nut in together, the "Button" on the tube end hangs up on the threads so it does not touch bottom, so the rounded button tip is not touching bottom in the controller, so no signal gets through.

IF not that, check for any kinks in the tubing - if kinked, it is probably toast. Occasionally straightening it out will work, but usually not. Curves are fine - kinks not.

I have seen one brand of electronic thermocouple where, for some unfathomable reason, the outside of the tubing is "live" and the part where it screws into the pilot fixture is insulated - so if it touches any metal it does not work, so make tubing does not touch any metal between pilot fixture and gas controller.

IF no go on these, it is possible the gas controller is shot - but I would try a brand new thermocouple first to be sure - at worst you will be out $5-10 or so rather than hundreds for a new gas controller installed, and will have a spare thermocouple for next year if it does turn out to be the controller, so you will really be out nothing in the long run and may save several hundred dollars.

I would give about 50:1 odds it is a thermocouple positioning or tightening or kinking problem - gas controllers/valves are really reliable, and usually go out by developing small leaks in the seals around the knob shafts, not by internal workings failure. Could also be a defective one - I have run into two defective Honeywell Universal thermocouples in the past year - flat out did not work right out of the package, but a new replacement one did.

IF all that fails, then an HVAC contractor (or a plumber if a hydronic or steam heating boiler). Note - under law in most areas, they will NOT attempt to repair a gas controller - they will only replace it.

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As stated above, it can vary between companies.

 

Typically just an inspection implies you do not have a contract or agreement that may include discounts or free repairs.

 

With our company you would get the annual maintenace service that you should do every year, and if repairs are needed, they are extra, but you aviod paying a "service call charge" that would be related to most repairs, because you are paying for the "inspection" and we are already on site.

 

Inspections are often discounted in the slow seasons, and can usually be found advertised , at reduced prices , on Angie's List.

 

So consider Angie's List and find the best of the best in HVAC contractors!