Pros and Cons of a New Roof Vs. Overlay

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Subject: Overlaying with a metal roof

Overlaying asphalt shingles with a metal roof is a big no, no. I got this directly from the #1 metal manufacturer in the US. Their representatives said absolutely not, to overlaying shingles with a metal roof. A metal roof should always be applied after the old shingles are torn off completely, and new synthetic felt paper is applied. I was telling them that all of my competitors were putting the metal right over the old shingles, and they repeatedly said you cannot do that, its just not correct.

Also I have to disagree with the statements here that a metal roof will last longer than shingles. Probably 90% of the metal roofs being put on today, are exposed screw metal. The manufacturers themselves will tell you that even the best screws for a metal roof only last approximately 8 to 12 years, then you will start to get leaks. And I know first hand from the many calls I've received of metal roofs leaking after 5 to 10 years, that this is a major issue. The rubber seals on them crack due to expansion and contracting which causes shifting of the metal, also causing cracking are the repeated rainfall and then the sun hitting the rubber washers as well. Exposed screw metal roofs will not outlast shingles. That is unfortunately the reality, despite metal roofing companies touting that it lasts 45 years. Do your homework homeowners, don't just take metal contractors word for it. Ask a real roofing professional the pros and cons of metal roofing before you make a choice that you deeply regret later on.

Johnny Redd

Subject: Roof Over

I have a 1949 1600 sf under roof with 8/12 pitches valleys and hips 2×6 rafters on 16" on center sheathed with 3/4 center matched lumber going over at least 1 layer of 3 tab shingles a partial tear took off the old tabs and left a nice wavy surface in pretty good shape. Over the top with shake faux architectural weaves over old valley cuts. The roof looks sharp. Being lifetime carpenter, I know the sheathing is good underneath in attic good and by using 1 1/4 tacks, I can feel the tecture of the wood when I drive the nails with my hatchet. Don't be fooled by all the hype about full tearoffs. Some codes require 3 and sometimes 4 layers of shingles on new houses. Roofs are designed to hold 40 to 60 pounds per square foot. 33 1/3 sf shingles weighs 90 pounds that's 3 pounds per sf------that's nothing for a house that weighs 80, 000 to 160, 000 pounds!!!

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.