Post-winter Woes: Should I Repair or Replace My Crumbled and Cracked Driveway?

Leave a Comment - 2

Comments

Frank Petrillo

Subject: Resurfacing a concrete driveway

I am experiencing a lot of flaking and cracked surfaces on my concret driveway particularly after this long and harsh New England winter. I had one professional out and they recomended that I remove it and replace it. Is it possible to resurface a concrete driveway instead of replacing it?

Jay Allman

Subject: Concrete Sealer

There are basically two types of concrete sealers. 1. Penetrating Sealer 2. Surface Sealer. If you're trying to protect concrete from snow and ice melt products, water absorption, etc you must use a penetrating sealer that absorbs into the top layer of the concrete and even that is not guaranteed to save your concrete from these melting products especially mag-chloride. The main reason concrete sealers do not last very long and you have to keep re-sealing is because of the Sun/UV. Simply the more the concrete is in the Sun each day the quicker the sealer will wear off and the more often you will have to re-seal it. The sun and traffic on the concrete, foot or vehicle is what deteriorates concrete sealer. The best sealers will have Xylene in them. Xylene does not freeze until approx 40 below zero. If you want to protect your concrete DON'T USE SNOW OR ICE MELT PRODUCTS. Surface sealers are for protecting the colors on a stamped concrete. We normally will only use sealer on stamped concrete. If the concrete is not stamped and you have just regular broom finished concrete and you want it to be maintenance free don't seal it.

View Comments - 2 Hide Comments

Post New Comment

 
Close
Offers <
Deals
Popular <
Answers <

Answers

?
I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had


?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


?
I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.
?

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.