Pick the Right Drywall Type for Your Project

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Henry Egan

Subject:

Your information on dry wall is going to be a big help to me in the future. We live in Houston TX a hot humid climae and we are going to be renovating our master bath so the info on green board is also helpful.

Tom D

Subject:

Like every component of construction, there are many books written on this topic, so these few sentences are just a brief introduction. There are two really crucial additions that should be made to this article.

First, while "green board" can a good backer for decorative tile in areas that are not directly exposed to water, it should not be used in wet areas such as a tub or shower enclosure. Unless a waterproof membrane is used between the tile and the backer, some water will get through tile/grout and damage green board. This can cause the gypsum core to fall apart, may cause mold, and in some cases actually damage the structure of the building. Cement board, which is fiber reinforced cement and doesn't have any paper facing material, is generally a better choice. Cement board is harder to work with - it's twice as heavy as drywall and is more difficult to cut and install, but it is usually only needed in limited areas. Also, in most typical homes with 16" ceiling joist spacing, green board should not be used on ceilings or other horizontal applications, as it is more prone to sagging than standard drywall.

Second, another crucial use of drywall is in creating fire rated separations within buildings. The most common example of this that homeowners encounter is in homes with attached garages. The drywall on the wall(s) separating the garage from the adjacent rooms of the house (and on the ceiling of the garage, if there are rooms above) is acting as part of the fire separation assembly. In some cases, standard drywall can be used, but in other cases, fire rated (or "type X") drywall must be used. Making changes to fire rated assemblies can be complex because all of the components have to be right for the end result to work: limiting the spread of fire until fire fighters arrive. If you need to make changes to parts of your home that may be fire rated, you should start by talking with the local building department and/or an architect.

Joy

Subject:

You might want to mention fire-rated drywall, called for by code in certain areas and for certain uses; commonly, for walls within 10 feet of a property boundary line. Use the wrong drywall there, and an inspector can require you to bust it back out, and replace it.

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had


?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


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I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.
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That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.