How To Tune Up a Lawn Mower

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Rose

Subject: mower

I have a self propelled mower and it doesn't feel like it's self propelled anymore. How do I fix that.

Paul

Subject: self propelled

it might be two things
1 belt might have slipped off
2 might need new wheels since some mowers have plastic gear in wheels that get torned up
what brand is the mower?

Glen Fullerton

Subject: Lawn mower won't start

I have a 2 yr old Sears key start mower. I have charged a new battery, checked the plug, wire and fuel, but the mower won't start either with the key or the pull rope. Doesn't even sound like it gets close.

Ed Faber

Subject: Recycle oil

Dispose of motor oil at an auto body shop? Auto body shops work on auto bodies not engines. Take your used motor oil to the place your purchased it such as the auto parts store. It's usually free and they'll take your old oil filters too.

Debs

Subject: Reply to Dan

Hi Dan...I had similar problem with the same lawnmoser as yours....just wondering if you checked your throttle cable? I figured out mine was not pulling the choke open enough to allow the fuel in.

It may be stuck with rust or dirt or debris...try to move it by hand to see...then clean with a brush if dirty & spray some WD40 to loosen up..then wipe off once it is moving freely. Adjust your throttle cable if necessary...there are holes in the handle to do this. Lastly apply a lubricant that doesn't attract dust and dirt like a garage door type lubricant.

This will keep your choke opening properly.
Also a great thing that I started using is Marvel Mystery Oil in my gas tank and oil. This cleans your mower internally & helps it run great. I use a capful per fillup of gas and 2oz in the oil when doing an oil change on the mower (use 2 oz LESS OIL) so the total amount is correct.

Dan Shaffer

Subject: Mower runs but have to prime it to start

Would like to know if you have any ideas about a Craftsman 6.5 BRIGGS AND STRATTON MOWER. I OVERHAUALED THE CARBUREATOR, THE SPARK PLUG IS GOOD, PLENTY OF GAS BUT THE MOWER STILL WILL NOT START WHEN I SUPPRESS THE RED PRIME RUBBER BUTTON. I CAN PULL THE AIR FILTER BACK AND SPRAY GAS OR STARTER FLUID AND THE MOWER WILL START. THE MOWER WILL RUN FINE AND START WHILE STILL WARM BUT WILL NOT START 2 TO 3 HOURS FROM THAT TIME. WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY MOVER? DAN SHAFFER

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had


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I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


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I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.
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That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.