How Often Should You Have a Furnace Inspection?

Leave a Comment - 7

Comments

Anne

Subject: raising water heat w no water heater

Trying to decide how to raise the temp of the shower/kitchen sink. One handyman looked at the temp rating on the furnace and advised i get a technician out here. I called our usual Oil people and they said i may have to buy a new part. any been there/done thats? Thanks.
Anne

tracy shannon

Subject: how to increase water heat

I was going to say- look at the water heater- there is a dial where you turn to increase/decrease how hot you want the water to be, then I saw this " with no water heater" at the end.. so you dont have a water heater?

Patrick

Subject: Furnace Maintenance and Combustion analysis

When a furnace maintenance is performed a combustion analysis should be performed to identify any problems that couldn't be found by a visual inspection. You want to know what the Carbon monoxide level your furnace is producing as well as the oxygen/CO2 levels and stack temperate. The analyzer will also give you a calculated efficiency rating with the information the analyzer receives. You should have >100ppm of Carbon monoxide output during normal operation of your gas furnace. When you have higher numbers or CO numbers increasing during operation their is a problem with the furnace the technician should then find the cause of. This is just a brief explanation I'm trying to get across to those who get their furnace maintained and to those who don't! Check to see if anyone in the company has a NCI certification for carbon monoxide/combustion analysis.

Lesley

Subject: 21 Clean and check tune up

Hi
I decided try a different contractor for my clean and check....Angie's List had a nice coupon. However, though the contractor was very nice etc....seemed like he was done in 20- mins. My other contractor seems to take much longer.
Also. my previous contractor noticed a very minor small crack in the exchange...but said it will be fine for a long while. But the new contractor didnt make mention of it.....so how do I know I got a good inspection???

Chris Sullivan

Subject: Re: 21 Clean and check tune up

Furnace tune ups should take anywhere from 45 minutes to hour and a half, depending on what the technician has to deal with when he gets there. I was a heating and AC professional for over 10 years and I had tune ups that only took me 30 minutes, and others where it seemed like I had to practically disassemble the entire furnace, clean, then put back together. Every call is unique. However, it's important you trust your contractor. Your instincts are more accurate than you probably give yourself credit for. I don't remember a tune up ever going less than a 1/2 hr in my 10 years of experience. It just takes time to setup, take down, and perform the actual maintenance. If you figure a minute per inspection point, it should have at least taken half an hr. I've showed up to furnaces that look flawless, and I still take them apart and clean them because that's what the homeowner paid me for. If there is even a hint of a cracked heat exchanger, get a second opinion. There are scams out there, and unfortunately a 20 minute inspection wouldn't reveal that. Have whomever is making the claim show you via camera or by physically removing the combustion chamber from the furnace and showing you. As weird as that sounds, I've removed heat exchangers out of furnaces just to prove that there was an issue. A cracked combustion chamber can be a serious issue, so the fact that he said it should be fine says either he doesn't know what he's doing or he's not being truthful, or both. It's not that cracked heat exchangers are leaking carbon monoxide, it's that they can. It's the potential that makes it dangerous. Hope this helps!

Carmine Galletta Owner GallettAir Heating and A/C Inc.

Subject: Maintenance and Check of heat exchanger

Regarding your post, Every technician performs a maintenance differently. Today's modern furnaces really don't require as much maintenance as older style systems did. For instance: Older furnaces had drive belts, pulleys and motors with oil ports.Today's blowers are direct drive no belts, no pulleys, sealed bearing motors no oiling required. All of the new modern technology cuts the maintenance time in half if not more. Today's equipment has multiple safety's in place so that in case of a failure the system will shut down. non serviceable control boards or (Brains) monitor system functions. Unlike oil systems, the maintenance on a gas system can possibly be completed in less than half the time. I'd say 20 to 30 minutes is about right unless a service issue arises. In the 30 minute time span, the doors can be removed, system components can be visually inspected, the flame can be inspected and co test can be performed for spillage and vacuum of the combustion area can be performed if needed. The air filter should be checked and the humidifier can be activated. Remember that probing into a perfectly functioning system can be detrimental to its lifespan. My advice is change you air filter, keep the area around the equipment free of dust and try not to store in close proximity to the heating plant. Be sure you have an updated quality carbon monoxide detector in your home. Regarding the crack in your heat ex-changer, If the heat ex-changer had a crack in it, the system it should have been shut down right then and there. Be aware that Carbon monoxide may be entering your living space due to that crack. Have a knowledgeable company come back and do a CO test in your home at the supply vents and use a scope to check your heat ex-changer for cracks. I hope this helps you. Bottom line, you have to trust the company that you are using. If you feel uncertain about their capabilities, then more than likely, you instinct is correct. Good Luck to you.. Happy Holidays

View Comments - 7 Hide Comments

Post New Comment

 
Close
Offers <
Deals
Popular <
Answers <

Answers

?
what should you pay.  You pay what you can afford.  1100sqft unit requires a min. of a two ton unit.  prices range from 2100-2900 depending upon the seers of the system.  13 seer is the min. the law requires  and for your situation with 1100 sqft.  do not worry about the seers as long as it is to code.  the bigger the house the more seers for economy.  1100 sqft is at the border line for a two ton system.  It is more important to have your new system balance, there is where you get the economy on your electric bill and gas.  Bryant, lenox, ruud and carrier are the brands you should stay with.All have the same basic factory warrantee and will last you longer than you expect as long as you maintain it with regular check ups twice a year once in the spring and then in the fall.

raymond gonzalez
koolray heating and air
 clarksville,tn
?

APRStore.com offers a nice sizing chart for HVAC capacitors and furnace capacitors. Most of the capacitors I've looked at are $5 to $15 dollars, so a little less than Home Depot and Lowes.

 

Replacement is really easy, but be sure to watch a youtube video on how to replace it like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IpydZIsOJg

 

Stay safe and hire a professional if you feel unsure about doing it yourself!

?
The only thing of importance, is the hvac professional you choose to use. Alot of manufacturer's pieces are built relatively the same, and will last about the same amount of time. The thing that matters most is what you can not compare between companies, and that is the installation. Purchasing a system is not like purchasing a car, where no matter where you buy it, they are all the same. Each installation is different, and usually what you are paying for is the level of expertise, and quality of the installation, the company who will actual give you the warranty, and the comfort that you will receive. Manufacturers warranties disappear every day. They always have a loophole where they can get out of paying, but your local dealer wants to keep you happy for future work, and to protect his reputation in the communiy. Look up 4 year old Nordyne and Goodman warranty problems. Choose the HVAC professional first. It will cost you the least in the long run. I have had to totally redo plenty of installations that were just performed because of an uncomfortable customer, and a system that keeps breaking down. The equipment is only as good as it's installation, and over 70% are not installed correctly.
?
I think maybe you are confusing SEER, which is an efficiency-related rating (higher SEER means more effective use of the electric power used to compress the gas), and TONS rating, which is a measure of the total cooling power of the system. (Tons used to mean how many tons per hour of ice was used in evaporative cooling building systems - a Refrigeration or Cooling Ton equals 12,000 Btu/Hour of energy exchange. A BTU, which is another antique measure but still used, is the energy needed to change the temperature of a pound of water one degree fahrenheit. Unfortunately, because of varying humidity and evaporation, this is not readily related to house air heating or cooling without a lot of assumptions and some computations. Relating this to today's world - the Manuals BayAreaAc referred to account for all these energy conversions and determine an estimated cooling (or heating) requirement for your specific house. The type of construction, solar exposure, general climatic conditions such as average temperatures, humidity, and hottest and coldest normal ambient temperatures and desired inside temperture are all taken into account in the more sophisticated versions of the analysis, so there is no "standard", though a rough old rule of thumb was about 1 ton of cooling per 500SF of house. Obviously, this was a WAG only because it did not account for insulation, type of roofing, whether you live in Alaska or Miami, etc. The ACCA manuals do a very simplified form of evaluation to arrive at a "design", which generally will be adequate. OF course, highly precise calculations are not really needed because A/C units generally come in even ton ratings - so if you are at say 2.6 ton requirement you will be getting a 3-ton unit anyway. SEER ratings are not a direct measure of efficiency, but the relative difference between ratings gives you good idea of the unit's relative efficency in using electricity - so a 16 SEER should be about 19% more efficient (so roughly comparable lower electricity bill) than a comparably sized 13 SEER unit. 13 SEER is the lowest efficiency currently allowed to be built for general use, 19 SEER is about the highest efficiency made by pretty much all manufacturers, and about 25 SEER is the highest rated though very pricey shelf-item units, though special construction custom units can reach about 30 SEER. Note however, like any government sponsored rating, much of it is hooey when you get down to it - for instance, SEER ratings are figured based on 80 degree inside air temp and 82 degrees outside, when that is far from the normal case of mid to low seventies inside and high eighties or above outdoors. This makes the absolute SEER rating meaningless, but relative numbers still have meaning in comparing units. Note these efficiency ratings are for conventional air conditoners and heat pumps working in ambient air conditions. Ground sourced Geothermal or lake/river exchange cooling units, though initially more expensive in most cases, can greatly exceed the air-exchange unit efficiencies because they are exchanging heat with cold natural water rather than with a high-temperature outside air, and instead of continually compressing a gas are just circulating cold water. I worked on one geothermal cooling project which had almost infinite efficiency, which of course makes no sense - but the only power was for sensors and a control valve as the water flow was single-pass under gravity flow, so no power was used to circulate the water.