How Much Does Radiant Floor Heating Cost?

Leave a Comment - 10

Comments

Randy

Subject: Radiant Floor Heat

I am building a pole barn in the spring and looking to add in floor heat. Barn is 1800 sq ft with 15 ft side walls. Any recommendations on system type and estimated sq ft costs

J Miles

Subject: WarmTouch floors

I have them. They're terrific, The best investment made in my entire house. Bathroom floors emanate sufficient heat to warm the entire 1200 sf master suite without heat/furnace supplementation except on −32F days.

Rick Kelly

Subject: Radiant Floor Heat in Germany

This was wonderful! The whole house felt really cozy. BUT....one time the computer that controlled the heat went "kittywumpus" and made the floor scalding hot! And, it was in the middle of the night. Had to run to the phone and hope my feet didn't get scalded too bad while I had the landlord come over and fix the system. Fortunately, there was a small rug I could kick over to where the phone was and that kept my feet from getting scalded. He hated computers from then on..... LOL.

Joseph L. Sexton

Subject: Radiant Heat

I remember reading an article about a Father & Daughter installing radiant heat in their basement, using plastic tubing attached to the floor joists & the cost was negligible, plastic tubing & a large water heater. I will now try to find it.

Tirtzah

Subject: Radiant Heat by Joe Sexton on Dec 6

Hi Joe:

Hopefully you can find this article! If/when you do, would you post the
URL for the article here on Angie's List for us please? Thanks! Also, if
and when you find the article, if/when you try this project, will you also
keep us posted on your progress? How many people does it take? What
skill level is needed to do it? Basic? Intermediate? Professional?

Also, let us know what the cost involved was for this project, for how
many sq. ft. house? Whether you removed existing flooring to place on
top of sub-flooring or went underneath subflooring? If you went underneath
sub-flooring, did you then insulate over top of hydro system to prevent heat
from escaping down and out, rather then going up into subflooring and on into
rooms?

Then also, of course, how it works? Did you see a significant decrease in your
power bill, (assuming that you were heating with an electric heat pump with the
ductwork, previously)? If so, how much less? Do you live in climate region with
cold winters, or mild like Florida, the Gulf Coast?

If you find the article and do actually install this yourself in your own house for
just a nominal cost and your own labor...perhaps you would be willing to sell
others your "plans" with materials needed, and "how to instructions" to follow,
step by step? (Thus recouping what you spent on this project, yourself)!

Thanks in advance and good luck in this "radiant hydro floor heating" project!

Tirtzah

Tirtzah

Subject: Chillers? technology for cooling at house?

Hii Perry:

Read a lot of comments. Someone said basically yes, in that you can do
the same thing, just using refrigerated cold water technology instead. But,
that you would have to also add some type of whole house "dehumidifier" in
order to realize the same cooling effect as regular central AC, or window AC
units. This is because all AC units "dehumidify" the air prior to releasing back
into the home, which in turn causes the air temperature to feel much cooler!
This is why you can set your heat on 70 degrees and feel the warmth, yet set
your AC also for 70 degrees and it feels far cooler than the 70 degree "heat"
setting!

Try Googling "Whole House Dehumidifier"? Hope this was helpful!

Tirtzah

View Comments - 10 Hide Comments

Post New Comment

 
Close
Offers <
Deals
Popular <
Answers <

Answers

?
what should you pay.  You pay what you can afford.  1100sqft unit requires a min. of a two ton unit.  prices range from 2100-2900 depending upon the seers of the system.  13 seer is the min. the law requires  and for your situation with 1100 sqft.  do not worry about the seers as long as it is to code.  the bigger the house the more seers for economy.  1100 sqft is at the border line for a two ton system.  It is more important to have your new system balance, there is where you get the economy on your electric bill and gas.  Bryant, lenox, ruud and carrier are the brands you should stay with.All have the same basic factory warrantee and will last you longer than you expect as long as you maintain it with regular check ups twice a year once in the spring and then in the fall.

raymond gonzalez
koolray heating and air
 clarksville,tn
?

APRStore.com offers a nice sizing chart for HVAC capacitors and furnace capacitors. Most of the capacitors I've looked at are $5 to $15 dollars, so a little less than Home Depot and Lowes.

 

Replacement is really easy, but be sure to watch a youtube video on how to replace it like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IpydZIsOJg

 

Stay safe and hire a professional if you feel unsure about doing it yourself!

?
The only thing of importance, is the hvac professional you choose to use. Alot of manufacturer's pieces are built relatively the same, and will last about the same amount of time. The thing that matters most is what you can not compare between companies, and that is the installation. Purchasing a system is not like purchasing a car, where no matter where you buy it, they are all the same. Each installation is different, and usually what you are paying for is the level of expertise, and quality of the installation, the company who will actual give you the warranty, and the comfort that you will receive. Manufacturers warranties disappear every day. They always have a loophole where they can get out of paying, but your local dealer wants to keep you happy for future work, and to protect his reputation in the communiy. Look up 4 year old Nordyne and Goodman warranty problems. Choose the HVAC professional first. It will cost you the least in the long run. I have had to totally redo plenty of installations that were just performed because of an uncomfortable customer, and a system that keeps breaking down. The equipment is only as good as it's installation, and over 70% are not installed correctly.
?
I think maybe you are confusing SEER, which is an efficiency-related rating (higher SEER means more effective use of the electric power used to compress the gas), and TONS rating, which is a measure of the total cooling power of the system. (Tons used to mean how many tons per hour of ice was used in evaporative cooling building systems - a Refrigeration or Cooling Ton equals 12,000 Btu/Hour of energy exchange. A BTU, which is another antique measure but still used, is the energy needed to change the temperature of a pound of water one degree fahrenheit. Unfortunately, because of varying humidity and evaporation, this is not readily related to house air heating or cooling without a lot of assumptions and some computations. Relating this to today's world - the Manuals BayAreaAc referred to account for all these energy conversions and determine an estimated cooling (or heating) requirement for your specific house. The type of construction, solar exposure, general climatic conditions such as average temperatures, humidity, and hottest and coldest normal ambient temperatures and desired inside temperture are all taken into account in the more sophisticated versions of the analysis, so there is no "standard", though a rough old rule of thumb was about 1 ton of cooling per 500SF of house. Obviously, this was a WAG only because it did not account for insulation, type of roofing, whether you live in Alaska or Miami, etc. The ACCA manuals do a very simplified form of evaluation to arrive at a "design", which generally will be adequate. OF course, highly precise calculations are not really needed because A/C units generally come in even ton ratings - so if you are at say 2.6 ton requirement you will be getting a 3-ton unit anyway. SEER ratings are not a direct measure of efficiency, but the relative difference between ratings gives you good idea of the unit's relative efficency in using electricity - so a 16 SEER should be about 19% more efficient (so roughly comparable lower electricity bill) than a comparably sized 13 SEER unit. 13 SEER is the lowest efficiency currently allowed to be built for general use, 19 SEER is about the highest efficiency made by pretty much all manufacturers, and about 25 SEER is the highest rated though very pricey shelf-item units, though special construction custom units can reach about 30 SEER. Note however, like any government sponsored rating, much of it is hooey when you get down to it - for instance, SEER ratings are figured based on 80 degree inside air temp and 82 degrees outside, when that is far from the normal case of mid to low seventies inside and high eighties or above outdoors. This makes the absolute SEER rating meaningless, but relative numbers still have meaning in comparing units. Note these efficiency ratings are for conventional air conditoners and heat pumps working in ambient air conditions. Ground sourced Geothermal or lake/river exchange cooling units, though initially more expensive in most cases, can greatly exceed the air-exchange unit efficiencies because they are exchanging heat with cold natural water rather than with a high-temperature outside air, and instead of continually compressing a gas are just circulating cold water. I worked on one geothermal cooling project which had almost infinite efficiency, which of course makes no sense - but the only power was for sensors and a control valve as the water flow was single-pass under gravity flow, so no power was used to circulate the water.