How Much Does It Cost to Rewire a House?

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Candace Wilson

Subject: electrical wiring

I have a '77 mobile home that I want to stay in. I feel the wiring is old and may need rewiring, but live on a small income. The house is about 700 sq ft. I want to know what I am looking at price wise in having the whole house rewired so that I will feel safe?


Subject: Rewiring

I am considering reqiring my home. It was built in 1920 and is a patchwork of all the generations of older wiring. One electrician however said I could save a lot of money by just updating the meter and panel and using GFI breakers to protect the two wire plugs. This would be $3K instead of $12K-$15K. He says it meets code and I could then legally have 3-wire plugs that would be safely grounded as well as grounded 2-wire plugs. Is this just as safe as rewiring? What are some pros and cons?


Subject: pros = meets code , cheaper

pros = meets code , cheaper

cons = if you have knob-n-tube wiring, you still have a HUGE bomb in your house

sometimes is possible just pull dedicated grounding wire (make holes from basement e.g. and fish at outlet )


Subject: Rewiring the home

I bought a 1964 Ranch home. All the inspection was done and they fixed everything. I signed up for the energy rebate thats when the nightmare begin. The attic needed to be redone and when the guys put a few access lights everything started to trickers. The house needed to be rewire because the cloth wire was bad. The windows has mold needed to be replace. The roof full of moss needed to be clean. The trees needed to be cut leaning on the garage. The finished basement hold moisture need ventilation system. I bought the house for 275k va loan that was forsale 290k thinking I got a good deal. So far I spend 35k on the house and still work need to be done. I love this home and neighborhood but its a money pitt. Im hoping to convert this home to a duplex in the finished basement to make the money back.


Subject: Replacing Knob and Tube

We hired an electrician who is willing to re-wire our house (3,500 sq feet and built in 1910) in parts so we can afford it without taking out credit. We chose to repair the plaster ourselves to cut down on the cost. His prices were extremely fair and he hardwired smoke detectors while they were doing it. His bid was less than half the price of the 1st one and he did a great and wonderful job. I recommend asking friends who they have used and what they liked/ disliked. This is how we ended up with someone awesome. We paid $290 to put in ceiling fans (that we provided) in each room and $220 to ground the wires from the basement to the 2nd floor (complicated with pocket doors all over) and $75 for each smoke detector (they provided). I think the job was more than they expected but he stuck with his quoted prices on each project.


Subject: The adventures of a purchase of an older home

Last month my wife and I closed on our 1962 home . We were so proud of the fact that after twenty two years we finally bought a home . No longer renters we found being home owners ,has a lot of things that we were not prepared for .
I have been disabled for a little over ten years in hopes the purchase we made was a good investment . Each day that goes by we are now finding ourselves in a money pit that we were not prepared for .
Our first encounter was the dishwasher. The first time either of us have had a dishwasher , we tried it out the main program board failed . We were smart , we had purchased a home owner warranty . The cost of a new board was equal to a new dishwasher.
The next week we found our sewer main had a poor drainage slope and blocked up. Our plumber recommended that we have a new system installed . We were able to get the plumbing cleared for now . I can expect to have the plumber out about four times a year to clear the line for now.
The third thing was the straw , this is also what prompted me to write this email. Last week my wife was sitting on the porch watching the rain , when she noticed sparks coming from an outlet on the porch . She came in and told me what was going on , at that time we shut the power off at the main circuit breaker and extinguished the fire. I guess this is what is meant by putting out fires of a new \ old home .
This is when my eyes were opened to the night mare we are in for . To access my attic which is something I did not know I was even able to do. I had a lot of reason as well as need to get in their . Once I got into the attic ,the true night mare was realized . I have found an extensive amount of extension cord as well as electrical tape which has been used to install several circuits . Needled to say I came out of their shaking I was so angry , my inspector did not see any of this .
You don't want to hear the adjectives that were used that day .
We don't have the funds to complete this job all at once so we are In search of an electrician who can do some of the repairs at a time .
This is a warning to those who are looking at old homes. If you think the deal is too good to be true it probably is , be very anal in the hiring of your inspectors these are the words and information which you are buying the property or anything else that may be used. If you don't know the people who does the inspections , make it a point the references as well as the business is a reputable establishment . Otherwise you don't know what you are in for . I want to thank the seller of this property . They were not anything as to what they presented themselves to be . I know as well as they , what was done . All of this is under a V.A. ?????????? What is my next step .
This is a call for all vets you are back in the world of honest Joes watch out for the good old boy attitude.
I realize that all of us have our own horror stories never the less . If anyone can help direct me to a good starting point I would be grateful .


Subject: When an inspection misses a code violation

When our inspector missed the extension cord in the attic that was powering a bedroom ceiling fan, HE was responsible for bringing it up to code. It cost him a lot more than he cost me.

This was 18 years ago in Tennessee, which is not at the leading edge of consumer protection law. I think it's generally if not always true that a licensed home inspector is on the hook for any code violations he or she misses. (Note that this is not true of home appraisers. "No evidence of termite infestation noted" doesn't mean it isn't there, it means "I didn't see it.")

Thanks for your service.


Subject: Reply to: The adventures of a purchase of an older home

Wow! What a nightmare! I don't know too much of anything about restoring old homes, but I am learning quickly as my parent's home was built in 1970 and we are looking at a few projects ourselves. One thing I did find was Synchrony Financial. If approved, it is like a credit card you can use specifically for Home Improvement. I have a little experience with the Health Care Credit side of this company (Care Credit) and it has proved extremely useful when you need something done right away with no money to spare. It is usually little or no interest if you pay it off within the promotion period, which could range from 6 to 3 years. Just make sure you do not miss a payment, and you pay it off when agreed because the interest charged in those instances is absolutely ridiculous. All in all, it is a great option for a tight situation. Hope this helps!

And thank you for your service in the military, if it was up to me all vets would be treated like royalty!



Subject: electrical panel replacement

Yes. We just had this done. Originally, we had the subpanel box in the master bedroom closet and the electrician said the code now says it should be placed outside of a closet due to fire risk. Normally, this would have meant moving the panel to a bedroom or family room wall which I couldn't see doing - so I had him remove the old panel and install a new panel in the garage (as part of other work we had done).


Subject: new electrial?

Im wondering, is it possible to just replace a electrical panel and outside box but not the whole house?

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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !