Do I Need to Replace All Four Tires at the Same Time?

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Subject: Need new tires at 26k miles?

I just went to my dealer for an oil change and they told me I need 2 new front tires. My car is used only weekends, has only 26K miles after 5 years, and I can't help but think they're trying to put something over on me. What is supposed to be the warranty on tires at time of purchase? In fairness, I never had the tires rotated (my bad) but never thought to averaging 5k/year. Any input?


Subject: All 4 tires

Unless you are driving in a straight line everywhere you go without so much as changing a lane, your differential is being put to use. I have an 06 Commander and have switched out a single tire twice as well as rarely ever rotated tires. I'm at 170k miles and have never had an issue. I've never heard of anyones differential gears going bad... i'm fine taking the risk against this 4 tire replacement advice.

Wyatt Steven

Subject: One damaged tire on an ALL-WHEEL drive

If your tire gets damaged and requires replacement, and, if your other 3 tires have more than 50%-of-new tread depth, consider a trip to a used tire store. Ask the salesperson to measure the circumference of your 3 tires and if they are within 2/32 of each other, purchase a used tire with a circumference within the range of the 2/32 measurement. Matching the make and model of the tire would be great, and if not available, match the tread pattern as closely as possible. This should get you on your way without the purchase of 4 new tires. This is a suggestion, and you should not consider this perfect advice in all situations. Exceptions: If you drive much more [miles] than average or at high highway speeds, or, if a different tire with 3 matching will void your car warranty.

Dee Huntley

Subject: My worn out differential

Well, I'm not a rocket scientist. The roads I drive on are very crooked and the differentials of my vehicles are constantly working (like they are supposed to). I have yet to where out a differential or for that matter a ??transfer case. Maybe we need to buy cars with a little more quality built into them. I'm sorry people, but if I can sell you 4 tiers, why in the world would I sell you one used one with the same tread and depth. I guess I should measure the corners on the road I constantly drive to see if I should put a smaller tire on one side to keep my differential from wearing out.


Subject: 4 Wheel Drive Tire Replacement

I recently purchased a new all-wheel drive vehicle. If I had know from the dealer that I needed to replace all 4 tires if I damaged one (which I recently did), I would have given serious thought to abandoning the purchase. How can it make sense that car manufacturers expect owners to cough-up all new tires when one experiences road damage. What a rip-off. Forget the tread depth, how many of us with other responsibilities keep track of tread depth? Maybe auto dealers should be up-front when selling the all-wheel drive. I cringe just replacing 2 tires for 1 on my other vehicles. But then again, we're talking about car dealers, what else can one expect from that industry?

Mike Hines

Subject: All Wheel Drive

The safest way to protect the differentials and the transfer case of your all-wheel drive vehicle is to replace all four tires at the same time. When measuring the circumference of a tire(picture wrapping a string around them) a difference of 1/2 of an inch is huge. A 90 inch tie will rotate roughly 700 times in a mile. A 1/2 difference result in the smaller tire rotating an extra 4 times which will result in premature drivetrain failure.





Subject: Yes

For an all wheel drive vehicle it is best to change all four tires but if stated above if the tires are within 2-3/32 if each other the it'll be ok. But that's only for newer tires with about 8/32 and above anything less change all four. Because you can cause serious damage to your vehicles drivetrain and it could log miles on your car incorrectly

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.