DIY Drywall Repair Tips from an Expert

Leave a Comment - 9


Marilyn Hansen

Subject: woodwork

I have a walker with 4 wheels. I have made a wreck of the woodwork with the brakes sticking out on my walker turning corners. Is there a way to patch it without putting all new woodwork in?

Cherie Putnam

Subject: Repairing wall corners

My biggest issue are the nicks, digs that the corners of drywall get exposing part of the corner metal underlay. How can you repair these easily while keeping the sharp corner angle of the wall. With 3 sons the corners have taken a real beating and spackling alone and keeping a crisp neat corner covering the metal edge seems very difficult. Thank you for your assistance.

Shawn Smith

Subject: Repairing Wall Corners

Avoid using a "light weight" or "easy sand" joint compound in these areas. Consider using Durabond or a cement based product such as OnePass Wall Repair.


Subject: Patching


Our walls and ceiling have a "knock-down" finish (not a very nice one). Honestly, I think it was finished that way so the contractor would feel obligated to hire skilled drywall finishers. At any rate, we had to patch the celing. How does one create a finish that matches the one that's there?


Subject: Patching outside corner

I need to patch a drywall outside corner. When our dog was a pup she decided to take a bite out of it. The damage is on both sides of the corner about 7 inches long. Do you have any suggestions on how to patch it?


Subject: patching plaster walls

I have to cut a hole in a plaster wall to attach a piece of 2x4 to a stud and then attach a sconce to the new wood.
The hole will be larger than a crack in a plaster wall. Do I try to patch with drywall or do I treat this like a very large crack?
What do you recommend?

Garrett Kelly
Garrett Kelly

Subject: Patching answer

Hey Patricia, My name is Garrett with Angie's List. I have reached out to the author of this article to get you an answer to your question. Here it is:

"Hi Patricia,

Thank you for reaching out to us and I will be happy to try and explain the best way to proceed.  Plaster walls presents a different challenge than drywall as it is a much harder surface and built with a lath system (horizontal thin slats of wood) so using a traditional stud finder is impossible.  The easiest way to hang anything is to use a metal toggle bolt which will allow you to anchor into the wall without having to cut a hole in the existing plaster and anchor to a stud."

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.