The Best Time of Year for Remodeling Projects

Leave a Comment - 14


Elana Riedel

Subject: kitchen remodels

We are a kitchen remodeling company. Our busiest time of year is November and December. It seems that everyone waits until Halloween to realize that they want a new kitchen for the Holidays. If you want us to give you some extra attention, then please contact us after the first of the year. That is our slowest season since people are still reeling over the money they spent for the Holidays.


Subject: remodeling

Considering the advice above, it is a happy accident the remodeling project tentatively begins Dec 12. There will be a approx. a month's gap due to the holidays. Stay tuned!


Subject: attic steps and boards for storage

My next project is to get attic steps and an opening to the attic, and then make the attic space usable for storage.


Subject: November Advantage

Currently renovating my kitchen, best advantage? friday deals. Youre welcome.


Subject: Renovation,/additions in winter

Winter is the worst time to pour footings. As an architect I advise against this since additives added to the concrete can compromise the mix. Furthermore, exterior brickwork will be subject to efflorescence, the white salts that leach out onto the surface of the brick. Lastly, there,s nothing worse than having to nail through frozen rough framing in the winter and splitting a lot of wood along the way in addition to subjecting framers to frostbite. What terrible advice.

Bonnie Christine Rodgers

Subject: Dryer duct to go up on over the top of patio with decorative

The washer & dryer was put into a little room off of the patio. So it is nice except the dryer vent has to run across the patio floor when drying clothes. One solution is to run the vent over the top of the patio roof. If would solve the problem and then find something nice to cover the vent that it would not be an eye sore. It would hardly be noticeable at all if done correctly,


Subject: Kitchen remodel

Want to do a kitchen remodel and re-do wood floors - sand and refinish - throughout our rambler. Thinking about doing it over xmas holidays when we plan to be away. Looking for contractors now who can help create the vision for kitchen space and do the work. Hoping we're not starting too late for a holiday job. Excited to get the project underway!

Anya Rey

Subject: Addition during Jan - early Mar

I take some issue with the idea that the early part of the year is a good time to do foundation work. While no tradesperson, I'm pretty sure poured concrete may not cure properly below a certain temperature. And since here in the Mid-Atlantic, we can have nights down in single digits, I would definitely speak with a qualified contractor before deciding to start an addition at this time of year.

Edna LaMotte

Subject: Issues of concrete pours.

One would think your assumption would be right. However, concrete actually generates it's own heat. If there is any doubt in the escape of that heat, your contractor will either cover it with plastic or use straw to insulate the footers. Mortar on the other hand is susceptible to cracking if used in temperatures under 45 degrees. Hope this helps!

Clif t

Subject: Winter Concrete.

Footers can be poured during the winter ( below freezing temperatures) if t they use an additive, or else it will crumble. With the additive footer and any other cement will be when cured, "soft", . If the temperature is below around 25 degrees for any length of time, I would wait . Soft cement maybe prone to crack later, as one of the wall in the basement in the house my father built did.


Subject: Winter basement digging

We had a basement dug in Michigan in January. The contractor filled it with straw and when the framing was done ran a generator down there to keep it warm as I recall. No problems.

Ms. Carolyn Eigel

Subject: remodel kitchen

The best time for me to remodel my kitchen is when my stove dies. The only thing wrong with it now is that the clock doesn't work as of the Dec. 2005 ice storm. I estimate that the engineers who designed the stove in the first place designed it to last only so long. Surely by the time it turns 30 years old
(2017), it will have died (Sears will tell me that it can't be repaired because they can't get the part/s for it). I can't justify
switching out a stove just because the clock doesn't work.
See how old I am?

Edna LaMotte

Subject: Age

Old enough to have common sense and wisdom to realize you don't need the stove clock to cook:)

Jackie Savukinas

Subject: remodeling basement

Thanks for the good tips on timing the remodel. I am planning to finish my basement and based on your advice, I'd like to do that in the Oct. to Dec. timeframe to save a bit on materials and labor.

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.