7 DIY Ways to Control, Kill Weeds in Your Yard

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Joe Garza

Subject: Thanks cause I hate round-up

I hate using round up around the house except for poison ivy cause I don't want to get anywhere near it. We have had plants affected by drift from round up by neighbors. The rest of the yard we prefer your tips even though it is more work. The less chemicals we put into the ground the happier the yard is to us.

Jacqueline McCall

Subject: Salt for Weeds

Salt is bad for the environment. It leaches through the soil and into the groundwater supply. Groundwater is used for drinking water and agriculture. Too much salt makes the water taste undesirable and limits plant growth, so while it may kill weeds, overall it isn't environmentally friendly.

Tom Lambrecht

Subject: Weed control

All above is BS Use roundup extended control and forget all the above!
Yes it is a chemical.
If DDT were used in Brazil along with fertilizer then the land would last longer and continued destruction of more and more Rain Forrest would be drastically slowed. Sometimes environmentalist are very short sighted and do not consider the long term effects of their recommendations.

Vinegar - SALT-Soap- Boiling water Sounds like a lot of work for very
little long term effect!

REBECCA

Subject: All Natural Weed Killer

1 gallon white vinegar
2 cups epsom salts
1/4 cup original Dawn blue dishwashing liquid

Apply via sprayer in the morning after dew has burned off

D Thomas

Subject: Grass clippings for mulch

Grass clippings actually don't make very good mulch, in my opinion. They clump together and form a crust that water doesn't penetrate. I suggest pine needles: we use them because they are plentiful, and the rainwater can get through them to soak into the soil.

Manure as mulch? I've never heard of that. Not sure I want to try it.

Joy Warriner

Subject: not all vinegar is the same strength

If using vinegar, you need to purchase the PICKLING vinegar with 9% acidity. Use straight vinegar with liquid dish soap added. Spray only on the weed, avoid getting drift on surrounding plants.
It is best if you spray in the late morning so the hot mid-day sun will hit the plant after the vinegar has been sprayed on.
Many weeds have a waxy surface on the leaves, or have little hairs on the leaf surface to keep the vinegar sitting above the flesh of the leaf. The soap will allow the vinegar to adhere better to the actual leaf's surface.

Oh, and if it is a stubborn weed, you may have to do a 2nd application because the vinegar kills the plant parts above the ground.

Karen

Subject: Thistle

At the first sign of it growing in the garden it must be dealt with otherwise it will take over and be impossible to root out from under plants. I isolate the culprit by putting a plastic pot that the bottom was cut out, then spray the hell out of it with Roundup. The plastic pot keeps the Roundup off of surrounding plants. Two weeks later I do the same thing. Their stoleniferous roots go deep, run horizontally to the soil surface and continually sendup new shoots. Only vigilance will work. Don't give up.

BEN GOLDBERG

Subject: salt for weeds

Salt's a bad idea overall for many reasons.
We've had good luck using white vinegar with a few drops of dish soap added. Inexpensive and effective for targeted areas.

Mary Parcheta

Subject: Buckthorn

Any good ideas on removing buckthorn. It is such an obnixious week takes over. Hard to stay ahead of it.

Dave Shelton

Subject: Buckthorn

You can only cut them down (and burn them if you can). The berries are prolific so watch for them to take seed. If you chip the buckthorn, have it hauled away. Do not try to use it for mulch as it will germante a whole new crop. (Experience talking here). Immediately after cutting, apply a strong stump killer like Bonide Stump & Vine Killer. Dont waste your time and money on conventional herbacides.

steve hubbard

Subject: salt for weeds

another thing to consider when using salt to kill weeds is the fact that salt erodes metal. Your sprayer wand (if made of metal), will be destroyed.

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had


?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


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I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.
?

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.