5 Top-Secret Painting Pro Tips

Leave a Comment - 11


Carol Williams

Subject: Paint can gutters

Instead of drilling holes in the gutter ( which could leave metal drilling bits in paint) I would use a hammer and nail and poke some holes in gutters instead of drilling.

Beth Slack

Subject: Painting tip

After placing plastic tarp cloths on your floor cover with large flattened cardboard boxes. This creates a disposable floor that will keep the plastic in place and soak up spills.


Subject: Painting secrets

Wrapping the roller or brush in cling film and also laying cling film over the paint in a tray will keep it from drying out if you have to stop painting before it's complete (Like picking up the kids from school or running an errand). This is especially handy when you are painting trim so you don't have to keep washing the brush or roller.


Subject: Painting

I get my best results when I roll crossways and at angles, then finish with long verticle strokes rolling into other wet paint already applied (the same as you would do with a brush). This allows for better coverage while giving a smooth finished product.

John Stallings

Subject: Spray painting

Can you make a house look good spraying it inside as good as it will look by rolling it. Also if you use a electric paint sprayer will it look as good and will one coat do it like rolling it on .

Linda Sovacool

Subject: Painting tip

To save money and time, have the store Tony your primer the same color as your paint. Then just paint one coat primer and one color at of paint. Use a high quality paint brush for trim.


Subject: Use a paint shield?...really?

Ahhh, no, don't. By purchasing paint tape, you eliminate the mess and drips of a "shield", as the paint builds up and runs down on your wall, or floor and will carry the paint left on the shield to the next surface. Arrrrgh! Paint tape, although costs more, you save in clean up time and the TREMENDOUS hassle of cleaning up the mess and mistakes of a shield. Buy tape, install correctly, paint. let mostly dry and remove. Voila! It's a hassle free deal. Shiels bite. So sez moi...no, I am not a tape salesman.

karelina resnick

Subject: painting

1. You said what to use as a paint shield, not how to use.
3. What's this mean: trim the outside edges at a tapered angle.
4. And this: feather out your painting rolls

Susan Bacher

Subject: Paint like a pro

I totally agree with putting holes in the gullies of paint cans before pouring paint. However the author suggested drilling holes which would send metal shavings flying into your paint; never good. Instead use a hammer and nail to make clean holes for paint to drain through. If you have leftover paint at the end of the job, wipe the gully of any built up paint and push the nail through the holes again. The paint will be easier to work with next time and you'll avoid sending dry clumps of paint into the can (and into your paint!) when you open it.

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.