4 Plumbing Tips Every Homeowner Can Use

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Brea Pipes

Subject: One time my toilet leaked all

One time my toilet leaked all over the floor. It was unstoppable, so I had to shut off my water until it was fixed. It is so important to know were the water shut off is in an emergency.


Subject: toilet leaking

I flushed my toilet and water seeped out from the base of the toilet, backed sewage up into the shower and at least a gallon of water and flakes of sewage dripped through to the basement. The toilet is right next to the shower. This happened about 3 years ago, once, but not since. I did nothing. The wood floor has warped this time around the toilet. Even though the shower drain seems to be high at the point of the toilet drain, the shower seems to be draining correctly. Just pouring water into the toilet seems to cause the problem. The toilet is a Kohler lowboy 1.5 gal flush, installed in 2007 . It was clean, no buildup even though a 20 yr old model. Now there is significant buildup of mineral in the bottom of the bowl. 2 months ago I had water softener installed. What should I do and how much should I pay? Nobody can tell me where the sewer line is. It is an old house, with what appears to be two separate sewer lines. The bath upstairs is on the north side and the sewer line is visible in the basement and runs along the north side. The kitchen sink is on the south side, the laundry drain underneath in the basement, along with a toilet that is functioning. Apparently the south side original build, has the sewer line going west under 2 properties to the alley. The kitchen sink used to drain into a grease trap but was switched to the laundry/toilet basement drain, when the grease trap clay pipe was broken in excavation. Have not located where it dumped into the sewer line, nor located the sewer line, but that is still draining okay.

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I second the original question (still unanswered). Speaking as someone who logged in today to try to find an attorney, I see this category as one that's exactly what I have my Angie's List membership for:

1. It's important that I find a good one
2. I'm not an expert enough to know myself who is a good one
3. The industry is full of advertisements and misinformation
4. I wish I knew what experiences other people have had

I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.

I'm not sure Angie et. al. want you to have a complete answer to this question. By re-subscribing at the Indiana State Fair in 2012, I think I paid $20.00 per year for a multi- year subscription. Maybe even less. At the other extreme--and I hope my memory isn't faulty about this--I think the price, for my area, for ONE year was an outrageous $70.00. And they debited me automatically without warning. I had to opt out of that automatic charge. I like Angie's List, but if some of the companies they monitor behaved the way they do in this respect, they'd be on some sort of Pages of Unhappiness. I'll be interested to see if this comment gets published or censored out of existence.

That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor.

On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.

A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking  or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor.

Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat  and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor.

For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint. The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too.

That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used.