Washington Structural Engineers

in Washington, DC

635
Structural Engineers are
in Washington

30
Structural Engineers in Washington
are top rated

A
Rated by
Adam S.
"We recently purchased a 100-year old row house in Columbia Heights with several noticeable issues. The floor slanted, the front porch was at an angle, and the former owner did a shoddy" job on several decks. Our inspector did a thorough report but we were already near the end of our budget and needed to prioritize the repairs, especially since several contractors were suggesting rebuilding the entire house or putting in pillars on our first floor.
came to the house within a day of my placing a call and went through all the problem areas from the inspector report, offering some basic ideas on how to fix. He could have provided detailed work plans for extra charge, but we just wanted the basics. About a week later he provided a report with pictures explaining any issues along with the quick suggested fixes. Extremely helpful, especially after hearing 5 different opinions from contractors about how to fix. Prompt, professional, and easy to work with.
A
Rated by
sarah K.
"We are in the midst of remodel and noticed some significant cracking where supporting walls had been removed. Although our plans were engineer reviewed, that person was no longer in" the area. I decided to hire a structural engineer to review and I am so glad that Mr.
was available. Because we could not continue work until things were inspected, I was pressed for time. Called him monday, he came tuesday and very swiftly realized that our contractors had not put in any of the specified beams and that the house was structurally at risk. By that Friday he had provided us with a new plan for installing supports in 4 separate areas and noticed an additional area that required support that was not on the original construction document. Throughout this process, he was very calm, thorough, and responsive. His pricing seems very fair--400.00 for the initial visit (he was there 1.5 hours) and 75/hour for the plans. So fair, in fact, that our contractor is thinking about using him on future projects! I would not hesitate to use him again or to recommend him to others.
A
Rated by
Amanda D.
"He was very thorough with his inspection and explanation. It was clear he has a lot of experience with homes in
, DC and was able to relate my issue to similar" issues in other houses. I will absolutely hire him to do the repair work once I purchase the house. He gave me the peace of mind and clarity I needed.

Local Articles in Washington

structural engineer

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Your home needs a strong foundation to keep those inside safe. Structural engineers can help. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Randy S.)

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

bowed interior block foundation wall
Structural Engineering

Does your home have horizontal cracks in its concrete block foundation? Check out these common causes and repairs for horizontal foundation cracks from a highly rated structural engineer.

If you come home to a wet basement or crawl space, make sure you get credible advice before agreeing to pay for any repairs. (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Michelle B. of Indianapolis)
Structural Engineering

A highly rated structural engineer explains why it may be best to hire an engineer and draft a plan before hiring to repair a wet basement or crawl space.

Angie's Answers

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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

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Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
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The key is to have drainage away from the house, and not introduce water to the foundation unnecessarily. If you can slope the existing backfill soil from the foundation away from the house at least 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the 2 foot space to the walk and pack it down, then putting a ground cover on it will not hurt - it is the relatively impervious layer sloping away from the house you want. If you use rocks I would underlay them with some 6 mil or thicker black plastic sheeting (available in small rolls at home supply stores and lumber yards). If planting, the same would be nice if the plants you choose spread laterally like Epimedium, so they will grow in just a fewe inches of topsoil over the plastic. Otherwise, tamp down the dirt to make it a hard, draining surface (at least when it rains heavily) before topsoiling and planting. Keep a slope on the topsoil too, and avoid overwatering. Do not plant anythig with highly invasive, tenacious or deep burrowing roots like bushes, ivy, or trees near the house, as the roots will penetrate the waterproof barrier on the outside of the foundation, and then you might start getting leaks. The roots can even penetrate the concrete block joints and start breaking up the foundation. For this reason, annual flowers, shallow-root ground covers, bulb plants and rock gardens are far better within 3 feet or so of the foundation than larger plants or intensive gardening.
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Structural Engineering reviews in Washington

A

Rating
My contractor removed the wall and now I have a wonderful open-island kitchen with granite.
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was amazing, super professional, responsive and very honest from a price perspective. He charged only 275 for one inspection, when all the other structural engineering company who gave me a quotation, would have charged 400-500 dollars only for the inspection. He charged me only once, even if he came out twice. So happy with his services, I decided to call him again to assess the possibility to place a roof-deck on my roof. He came, inspected the roof, made a positive assessement and did not charge me for the visit, saying that if we decided to move forward with the deck, he would have charged me next time when he would come to take the measurements.
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was so kind to provide me with the contact of another contractor specialized in roof decks, with prices much more competitive than those on the
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. I am very happy with his service and will for sure contact him again every time I will need a structural engeneering advice.
- Roberta B.
A

Rating
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and his team did an excellent job on our backyard renovation project. We initially hired him just for a garage renovation that required a crumbling brick wall to be demolished and replaced, roof replacement, new windows/doors, electricity installed and new concrete slab. He reconstructed our brick wall with cinderblock to make it stronger, then put a brick facade on the outside so it matched the rest of the garage.
Although he initially came in higher in price, he competed against two other bids we had received and reduced the price while maintaining his promise to provide higher quality service. Overall, he was the best value. He was very responsive and kept us informed of the status of the project, letting us know when they were applying for permits, when they would begin construction and how long until they would be finished. In addition, he completed the work in a timely manner with the whole thing being done in about 2 weeks. We were very pleased with the finished product and are excited to have a nicely finished garage.
We were so pleased with his work on the garage that we hired him again two weeks later to build two retaining walls that we quickly realized may be too complicated for a DIY project. He also removed an old concrete patio for us. He immediately knocked off $1500 the price of the wall for being a repeat customer, which was nice. He again did a great job on the walls and the project only took about 2 days. We would definitely recommend
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
in the future.
- Laura S.
A

Rating
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
does good work and is responsive to phone calls and texts. He's very professional and doesn't promise on things he can't deliver. I would use him again for other home improvement jobs.
- Eric G.
A

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He arrived at property in response to my request due to several noticable cracks that appeared throughout the home. He explained the services that he would provide, walked through the home taking pictures and measuring. Performed the inspection from top to bottom and inside and outside. When finished let me know what to expect and by when. I received a professional report detailing his observations, probable cause and repair recommendations earlier than expected. I feel very comfortable with his knowledge and experience of the matter and will move forward with his recommendations. Thank you.
- Rachel B.
A

Rating
The workers were truly professional.
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, the engineer assessed the problem. The subcontractor services, which was hired through them, were not that great. I did not feel they were professional. The billing was not done very well also. I felt the billing person was rude.
- David W.
B

Rating
Overall it was a fair price to provide a technical evaluation. He will charge more if you want him to write a report, so be prepared to take notes while he walks around and talks.
- Valerie C.
A

Rating
The earthquake in August evidently caused a network of cracks in the basement floor, which was brought to our attention a few days later when the hurricane caused water to seep through the cracks and soak the carpet. I called
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
based on Angie's List recommendations, intending to get bids from several contractors but, after consulting with
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
Tatchell and
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, it was clear to me that I wouldn't find a better match for my project (in retrospect, it was perhaps not an ideal match for them - they were juggling several large contracts and my comparatively tiny job demanded a disproportionate amount of their time and attention).

From that point It took a full month to come up with a final proposal, during which time 1) they dug a hole in the concrete so that an outside structural engineer (recommended by
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
) could examine the foundation and the damage; 2) the engineer provided a detailed report complete with sketches of the necessary structural repairs; 3) I met twice with Satch, their remarkable in-house heating/cooling specialist, and consulted several times with
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
on flooring and other options. It took as long as it did partly because our job was dwarfed by contracts that they were already working on, and largely because my husband and I complicated the process by requesting things that
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
had to track down, source, and cost.

The work itself began on Sept 27 and was completed on Oct 26. The workers were a pleasure to have around. In addition to Satch,
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
keeps a full crew on salary that includes a plumber, an electrician, an amazing finish carpenter, and several construction workers. It's obvious that the company treats their people fairly and with respect - they work their butts off and seem happy to do so! Removing the old concrete and digging out the floor was beyond labor-intensive; because we live in a rowhouse with no basement entrance, the guys had to fill buckets with broken concrete and red clay soil, then carry them out the front door and down the block to where they could park the truck. They worked quickly and at the end of each day they cleaned up as much as possible.

I could go on and on. I was surprised by the quality of their work each time that I went downstairs to have a look. Everyone was meticulous in their work.
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was a joy to work with - always responsive, honest and open. He listened to me, discussed ideas and options freely, and I always felt like a part of the team.

The end result was really way beyond my expectations - the basement has always been my husband's dumpy mancave, but now it's a beautiful gem of a room that I actually want to spend time in! I wish Angie's had a special "A++ I love these guys" category for
Washington Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
.
- SUSAN B.

All Structural Engineers in Washington, DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

S K & A STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS

6101 EXECUTIVE BLVD

S Q CONSULTANTS INC

9914 ROSEWOOD HILL CIR

SAIC INC

4321 COLLINGTON RD

SAIC INC

4875 EISENHOWER AVE

SAR ENGINEERING INC

3 BETHESDA METRO CTR

SCANDPOWER INC

481 N FREDERICK AVE

SCENTZ 4U

6767 MID CITIES AVE

SCHNABEL ENGINEERING

1300 Piccard Dr

SCHRAMM & WILLIAMS

512 C ST NE
Washington

SCS ENGINEERS

11260 ROGER BACON DR

SCS ENGINEERS

296 Victory Rd

SEISMIC SURVEYS INC

604 SOLAREX CT

SERCO INC

2525 POINTE CENTER CT

SERVICE ENGINEERING INC

22099 THREE NOTCH RD

SGT

7701 GREENBELT RD

Shelkin Homes, LLC

PO Box 15332

SHEMRO ENGINEERING ASSOC

19636 CLUB HOUSE RD

SHERROD HAWKINS

214 S STREET NE
Washington

SIBER SYSTEMS

11781 Lee Jackson Memorial Hwy Ste 380

SKYLLA ENGINEERING

100 Greenspring Dr

SMARTEK SYSTEMS INC

14710 KOGAN DR

SMEDA DESIGN BUILD

12111 Thoroughbred Rd

SMITH & FISHER

2237 TACKETTS MILL DR

SOIL CONSULTANTS ENGRG INC

8511 INDIAN HILLS CT

SOIL CONSULTANTS INC

9303 CENTER ST

SOIL TECH INC

14630 FLINT LEE RD

SOLAR ENERGY DESIGN INC

3822 Prince William Dr

SOLID WASTE SVC LLC

11706 BOWMAN GREEN DR

SOUTHWEST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

1801 Rockville Pike Ste 105

SPECPRO

7217 LOCKPORT PL

SPECTRUM ASTRO

1300 PENNSYLVANIA AVE NW
Washington

SPIEGEL ZEMECNIK SHAH INC

1900 L ST NW
Washington

STAIANO ENGINEERING INC

1923 STANLEY AVE

STEARNS & WHELER

4201 NORTHVIEW DR

STEEL CLOUD INC

14040 PARK CENTER RD

STRUCTRON ENGINEERING

4208 ASPEN HILL RD

STRUCTURAL SOLUTIONS

1001 SPRING ST

SunBrite Remodeling LLC

2136 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington

SURVICE ENGINEERING CO

3700 Fettler Park Dr Ste 410

SWALES AEROSPACE

5050 POWDER MILL RD

SYSNET TECHNOLOGIES

10461 WHITE GRANITE DR

SYSTEMATIC MANAGEMENT

20201 CENTURY BLVD

SYSTEMS TECHNOLOGY INC

12533 PHILMONT DR

T A WILLIAMS & ASSOC INC

14917 CARRIAGE SQUARE DR

TASC INC

13605 DULLES TECHNOLOGY DR

TDI Construction Group Inc

13800 Coppermine Rd

TECH 12

11130 MAIN ST

TECHNICAL DATA SVC

201 RITCHIE RD

TECHNO-SCIENCES INC

11750 BELTSVILLE DR

TECOLOTE RESEARCH

11350 RANDOM HILLS RD

TEKLA RESEARCH INC

15518 RIDGECREST DR

TELENETICS

818 FRANKLIN ST

TERRATECH LLC

604 JACK ENDERS BLVD

TEST & BALANCING INC

14300 CHERRY LANE CT

THEOBALD BUFANO & ASSOC

1414 Prince St Ste 200

THOMAS L BROWN ASSOC PC

1818 New York Ave NE Ste 107
Washington

THORNTON-TOMASETTI GROUP INC

2000 L ST NW
Washington

TITAN CORP

2008 STUMP NECK RD

TMA GEOTECHNICAL ENGINEERING

8935 SHADY GROVE CT

Tonken Remodeling

1421 Fallswood Dr.

TOTAL SITE SOLUTIONS

6650 Business Pkwy

TRC COMPANIES

1577 SPRING HILL RD

TRI STAR ENGINEERING

2001 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY 405

TRITON SERVICES INC

2016 Industrial Dr

TUHIN BASU & ASSOC INC

7921 Jones Branch Dr Ste 545

UNITED DESIGN ENGINEERS

6463 Sedgwick St

URBAN ENGINEERING

7700 LITTLE RIVER TPKE

US ARMY CORP OF ENGINEERS

138 GRAHAM PARK RD

UTD INC

8350 ALBAN RD

VALENTINE ENGINEERING

5869 WOODFIELD ESTATES DR

Van-Q construction, LLC

17822 Buehler Rd

VECTOR ENGINEERING INC

907 LEAFY HOLLOW CIR

VECTOR RESEARCH CO

3206 TOWER OAKS BLVD

VERAXX ENGINEERING CORP

14130 Sullyfield Cir Ste B

VERIDIAN ENGINEERING

1200 S HAYES ST

VETTRA CO

11535 GUNNER CT

VIEW ENGINEERING

704 Quince Orchard Rd Ste 310

VISION TECHNOLOGIES SYSTEM

99 CANAL CENTER PLZ

VOLKERT & ASSOC INC

5400 SHAWNEE RD

WATKINS PARTNERSHIP

3032 MITCHELLVILLE RD

WEYGANDT ENGINEERING INC

15206 PEACH ORCHARD RD

WHITLOCK-DALRYMPLE-POSTON

10621 GATEWAY BLVD

WILKES TECHNOLOGIES

10126 PARKWOOD TER

WILLCOR INC

7501 BERKSHIRE DR

Windows, Etc:

10804 Kingsmere Court

WOLFMAN & ASSOC

8720 GEORGIA AVE

WOODS PEACOCK ENGINEERING

5250 CHEROKEE AVE

Worldwide Concrete

8259 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd

WRC

122 C ST NW
Washington

Wunna Contracting Corporation

43695 John Mosby Highway

WYLE LABORATORIES

241 18TH ST S

ZAHEDIAN & ASSOC

9108 MARSEILLE DR

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