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F
"
showed up to take a look at my property on a Saturday morning and spent about 30 minutes assessing the structure. He asked me if there was" a crawl space and I told him yes, but that I was not sure where it was. Apparently, he didn't either. I found that to be odd being as though he is a structural engineer and should know the different areas where crawl spaces are generally placed. However, we proceeded. Based on what he saw he told me that I will need to anchor one side of the building and also put support beams in the front (thousands of dollars). I thought...this is great that I have answers, now I can go to DCRA and get the proper permits that I need for the work that I need done. I paid him $250.00 for this assessment. I also decided that it would be great for his company to create my design plans for the work that would be done inside as well as outside. Fast forward a month or two, I locate the crawl space (again, he as the structural engineer could not). My mother and I met with him to go over the preliminary design plans and negotiate pricing. We informed
and
that I had located the crawl space and that it was important for him to come back and take a look just to make sure that we have all of the answers needed regarding the property's foundation.
stated that he would come back and go into the crawl space. It is now
1, 2014 and I have yet to see Mr.
. He was paid to do an assessment and it was impossible for him to thoroughly assess the stucture without going into that crawl space. I called and emailed as well as asked my mother to assist. Mr.
responded stating that he wants money for design plans and that he never said he was going to come back out. I informed him that we cannot move forward with plans withouth knowing what is going on in the crawl space. Mr.
has held up my work since. 2 weeks ago I reached out to my homeowner's insurance company and they sent out one of their structural engineers. He came out and went straight to the crawl space (without me having to tell him where it was). He informed me that my structure was solid. Settlement often occurs with older homes and that once it settles it will not settle any further. So, not only did
not thoroughly assess my issue and took my money but he wanted to rip me off by having me get work done to my foundation that didn't need to be done. With that said, I have found a new company to do my design plans for the interior work. I WILL be going to the BBB with this complaint. Stay far away from this company.

-Harry H.

A
"We recently purchased a 100-year old row house in Columbia Heights with several noticeable issues. The floor slanted, the front porch was at an angle, and the former" owner did a shoddy job on several decks. Our inspector did a thorough report but we were already near the end of our budget and needed to prioritize the repairs, especially since several contractors were suggesting rebuilding the entire house or putting in pillars on our first floor.
came to the house within a day of my placing a call and went through all the problem areas from the inspector report, offering some basic ideas on how to fix. He could have provided detailed work plans for extra charge, but we just wanted the basics. About a week later he provided a report with pictures explaining any issues along with the quick suggested fixes. Extremely helpful, especially after hearing 5 different opinions from contractors about how to fix. Prompt, professional, and easy to work with.

-Adam S.

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Local Articles in Washington DC

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

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Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

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Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

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earthquake retrofit
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Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

bowed interior block foundation wall
Structural Engineering

Does your home have horizontal cracks in its concrete block foundation? Check out these common causes and repairs for horizontal foundation cracks from a highly rated structural engineer.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?
?
The key is to have drainage away from the house, and not introduce water to the foundation unnecessarily. If you can slope the existing backfill soil from the foundation away from the house at least 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the 2 foot space to the walk and pack it down, then putting a ground cover on it will not hurt - it is the relatively impervious layer sloping away from the house you want. If you use rocks I would underlay them with some 6 mil or thicker black plastic sheeting (available in small rolls at home supply stores and lumber yards). If planting, the same would be nice if the plants you choose spread laterally like Epimedium, so they will grow in just a fewe inches of topsoil over the plastic. Otherwise, tamp down the dirt to make it a hard, draining surface (at least when it rains heavily) before topsoiling and planting. Keep a slope on the topsoil too, and avoid overwatering. Do not plant anythig with highly invasive, tenacious or deep burrowing roots like bushes, ivy, or trees near the house, as the roots will penetrate the waterproof barrier on the outside of the foundation, and then you might start getting leaks. The roots can even penetrate the concrete block joints and start breaking up the foundation. For this reason, annual flowers, shallow-root ground covers, bulb plants and rock gardens are far better within 3 feet or so of the foundation than larger plants or intensive gardening.

Structural Engineering reviews in Washington DC

A

Rating
We are in the midst of remodel and noticed some significant cracking where supporting walls had been removed. Although our plans were engineer reviewed, that person was no longer in the area. I decided to hire a structural engineer to review and I am so glad that Mr.
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was available. Because we could not continue work until things were inspected, I was pressed for time. Called him monday, he came tuesday and very swiftly realized that our contractors had not put in any of the specified beams and that the house was structurally at risk. By that Friday he had provided us with a new plan for installing supports in 4 separate areas and noticed an additional area that required support that was not on the original construction document.

Throughout this process, he was very calm, thorough, and responsive. His pricing seems very fair--400.00 for the initial visit (he was there 1.5 hours) and 75/hour for the plans. So fair, in fact, that our contractor is thinking about using him on future projects!
I would not hesitate to use him again or to recommend him to others.
- sarah K.
A

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He was very thorough with his inspection and explanation. It was clear he has a lot of experience with homes in
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, DC and was able to relate my issue to similar issues in other houses. I will absolutely hire him to do the repair work once I purchase the house. He gave me the peace of mind and clarity I needed.
- Amanda D.
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My contractor removed the wall and now I have a wonderful open-island kitchen with granite.
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was amazing, super professional, responsive and very honest from a price perspective. He charged only 275 for one inspection, when all the other structural engineering company who gave me a quotation, would have charged 400-500 dollars only for the inspection. He charged me only once, even if he came out twice. So happy with his services, I decided to call him again to assess the possibility to place a roof-deck on my roof. He came, inspected the roof, made a positive assessement and did not charge me for the visit, saying that if we decided to move forward with the deck, he would have charged me next time when he would come to take the measurements.
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was so kind to provide me with the contact of another contractor specialized in roof decks, with prices much more competitive than those on the
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. I am very happy with his service and will for sure contact him again every time I will need a structural engeneering advice.
- Roberta B.
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Rating
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and his team did an excellent job on our backyard renovation project. We initially hired him just for a garage renovation that required a crumbling brick wall to be demolished and replaced, roof replacement, new windows/doors, electricity installed and new concrete slab. He reconstructed our brick wall with cinderblock to make it stronger, then put a brick facade on the outside so it matched the rest of the garage.
Although he initially came in higher in price, he competed against two other bids we had received and reduced the price while maintaining his promise to provide higher quality service. Overall, he was the best value. He was very responsive and kept us informed of the status of the project, letting us know when they were applying for permits, when they would begin construction and how long until they would be finished. In addition, he completed the work in a timely manner with the whole thing being done in about 2 weeks. We were very pleased with the finished product and are excited to have a nicely finished garage.
We were so pleased with his work on the garage that we hired him again two weeks later to build two retaining walls that we quickly realized may be too complicated for a DIY project. He also removed an old concrete patio for us. He immediately knocked off $1500 the price of the wall for being a repeat customer, which was nice. He again did a great job on the walls and the project only took about 2 days. We would definitely recommend
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
in the future.
- Laura S.
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Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
does good work and is responsive to phone calls and texts. He's very professional and doesn't promise on things he can't deliver. I would use him again for other home improvement jobs.
- Eric G.
A

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He arrived at property in response to my request due to several noticable cracks that appeared throughout the home. He explained the services that he would provide, walked through the home taking pictures and measuring. Performed the inspection from top to bottom and inside and outside. When finished let me know what to expect and by when. I received a professional report detailing his observations, probable cause and repair recommendations earlier than expected. I feel very comfortable with his knowledge and experience of the matter and will move forward with his recommendations. Thank you.
- Rachel B.
A

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The workers were truly professional.
Washington DC Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, the engineer assessed the problem. The subcontractor services, which was hired through them, were not that great. I did not feel they were professional. The billing was not done very well also. I felt the billing person was rude.
- David W.
B

Rating
Overall it was a fair price to provide a technical evaluation. He will charge more if you want him to write a report, so be prepared to take notes while he walks around and talks.
- Valerie C.

All Structural Engineers in Washington DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

S C HARMEN & ASSOC

1441 L ST NW
Washington

S K & A STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS

6101 EXECUTIVE BLVD

S Q CONSULTANTS INC

9914 ROSEWOOD HILL CIR

SAIC INC

4321 COLLINGTON RD

SAIC INC

4875 EISENHOWER AVE

SAR ENGINEERING INC

3 BETHESDA METRO CTR

SCANDPOWER INC

481 N FREDERICK AVE

SCENTZ 4U

6767 MID CITIES AVE

SCHNABEL ENGINEERING

1300 Piccard Dr

SCHRAMM & WILLIAMS

512 C ST NE
Washington

SCS ENGINEERS

11260 ROGER BACON DR

SCS ENGINEERS

296 Victory Rd

SEISMIC SURVEYS INC

604 SOLAREX CT

SERCO INC

2525 POINTE CENTER CT

SERVICE ENGINEERING INC

22099 THREE NOTCH RD

SGT

7701 GREENBELT RD

Shelkin Homes, LLC

PO Box 15332

SHEMRO ENGINEERING ASSOC

19636 CLUB HOUSE RD

SHERROD HAWKINS

214 S STREET NE
Washington

SIBER SYSTEMS

11781 Lee Jackson Memorial Hwy Ste 380

SKYLLA ENGINEERING

100 Greenspring Dr

SMARTEK SYSTEMS INC

14710 KOGAN DR

SMEDA DESIGN BUILD

12111 Thoroughbred Rd

SMITH & FISHER

2237 TACKETTS MILL DR

SOIL CONSULTANTS ENGRG INC

8511 INDIAN HILLS CT

SOIL CONSULTANTS INC

9303 CENTER ST

SOIL TECH INC

14630 FLINT LEE RD

SOLAR ENERGY DESIGN INC

3822 Prince William Dr

SOLID WASTE SVC LLC

11706 BOWMAN GREEN DR

SOUTHWEST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

1801 Rockville Pike Ste 105

SPECPRO

7217 LOCKPORT PL

SPECTRUM ASTRO

1300 PENNSYLVANIA AVE NW
Washington

SPIEGEL ZEMECNIK SHAH INC

1900 L ST NW
Washington

STAIANO ENGINEERING INC

1923 STANLEY AVE

STEARNS & WHELER

4201 NORTHVIEW DR

STEEL CLOUD INC

14040 PARK CENTER RD

STRUCTRON ENGINEERING

4208 ASPEN HILL RD

STRUCTURAL SOLUTIONS

1001 SPRING ST

SunBrite Remodeling LLC

2136 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington

SURVICE ENGINEERING CO

3700 Fettler Park Dr Ste 410

SWALES AEROSPACE

5050 POWDER MILL RD

SYSNET TECHNOLOGIES

10461 WHITE GRANITE DR

SYSTEMATIC MANAGEMENT

20201 CENTURY BLVD

SYSTEMS TECHNOLOGY INC

12533 PHILMONT DR

T A WILLIAMS & ASSOC INC

14917 CARRIAGE SQUARE DR

TASC INC

13605 DULLES TECHNOLOGY DR

TDI Construction Group Inc

13800 Coppermine Rd

TECH 12

11130 MAIN ST

TECHNICAL DATA SVC

201 RITCHIE RD

TECHNO-SCIENCES INC

4296 Forbes Blvd

TECOLOTE RESEARCH

11350 RANDOM HILLS RD

TEKLA RESEARCH INC

15518 RIDGECREST DR

TELENETICS

818 FRANKLIN ST

TERRATECH LLC

604 JACK ENDERS BLVD

TEST & BALANCING INC

14300 CHERRY LANE CT

THEOBALD BUFANO & ASSOC

1414 Prince St Ste 200

THOMAS L BROWN ASSOC PC

1818 New York Ave NE Ste 107
Washington

THORNTON-TOMASETTI GROUP INC

2000 L ST NW
Washington

TITAN CORP

2008 STUMP NECK RD

TMA GEOTECHNICAL ENGINEERING

8935 SHADY GROVE CT

Tonken Remodeling

1421 Fallswood Dr.

TOTAL SITE SOLUTIONS

6650 Business Pkwy

TRC COMPANIES

1577 SPRING HILL RD

TRI STAR ENGINEERING

2001 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY 405

TRITON SERVICES INC

2016 Industrial Dr

TUHIN BASU & ASSOC INC

7921 Jones Branch Dr Ste 545

UNITED DESIGN ENGINEERS

6463 Sedgwick St

URBAN ENGINEERING

7700 LITTLE RIVER TPKE

US ARMY CORP OF ENGINEERS

138 GRAHAM PARK RD

UTD INC

8350 ALBAN RD

VALENTINE ENGINEERING

5869 WOODFIELD ESTATES DR

Van-Q construction, LLC

17822 Buehler Rd

VECTOR ENGINEERING INC

907 LEAFY HOLLOW CIR

VECTOR RESEARCH CO

3206 TOWER OAKS BLVD

VERAXX ENGINEERING CORP

14130 Sullyfield Cir Ste B

VERIDIAN ENGINEERING

1200 S HAYES ST

VETTRA CO

11535 GUNNER CT

VIEW ENGINEERING

704 Quince Orchard Rd Ste 310

VISION TECHNOLOGIES SYSTEM

99 CANAL CENTER PLZ

VOLKERT & ASSOC INC

5400 SHAWNEE RD

WATKINS PARTNERSHIP

3032 MITCHELLVILLE RD

WEYGANDT ENGINEERING INC

15206 PEACH ORCHARD RD

WHITLOCK-DALRYMPLE-POSTON

10621 GATEWAY BLVD

WILKES TECHNOLOGIES

10126 PARKWOOD TER

WILLCOR INC

7501 BERKSHIRE DR

WOLFMAN & ASSOC

8720 GEORGIA AVE

WOODS PEACOCK ENGINEERING

5250 CHEROKEE AVE

Worldwide Concrete

8259 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd.

WRC

122 C ST NW
Washington

WYLE LABORATORIES

241 18TH ST S

ZAHEDIAN & ASSOC

9108 MARSEILLE DR

Shop Local Structural Engineering Services in Washington DC

Washington DC Zip Codes

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