Washington Electricians

in Washington, DC

3.1K
Electricians are
in Washington

988
Electricians in Washington
are top rated

D
Rated by
Kristin L.
"I purchased a coupon for a ceiling fan installation from
Electrical for $180 because I incorrectly thought I had used this vendor previously. The work was" completed as scheduled and was well executed, but the cost of installing an electrical box was exorbitant, and the coupon was not much of a "discount". The electrician installed the electrical box and then told me of the cost after he had completed installation. Ultimately, the work performed cost twice as much as another electrician I had found on Angie's List who performed the same exact work, including installation of an electrical box, in a different room in my home two months earlier.
A
Rated by
Josh M.
"
was extremely helpful. On the day of the service, despite having their work truck stolen and needing to replace all of their tools,
was" only an hour late for the agreed upon start time and did everything that we asked. We could not be happier with what he did and are extremely appreciative.
F
Rated by
Andrew L.
"Work itself was average. Failed to provide one of four light bulbs and installed the wrong dimmer (estimator stated that the sliding type of dimmer would be used because he "hates"" the other type; however, the knob type dimmer was the one installed). Professionalism and customer service were awful. I originally had them out to do an estimate for a somewhat larger scope of work, and the provided me with an estimate. When I decided to decrease the scope of the work, the estimator said he didn't need to come out and do a new estimate, since I would just be charged for time and materials and it would work out to be a few hundred less and my invoice would reflect that. Fine -- annotated in contract, paid deposit, and moved onto doing the job. After the job was done, I received an invoice for the original, full amount. Called the estimator and he assured me that he would adjust the invoice and I would get a new updated one. A week later I got the same, original invoice. Called him again, same story from the estimator, same result: got yet another original invoice reflecting the original amount. Called again, same result except this time
had the audacity to try and charge me a late fee. I then called the main office, got the usual run around, until I finally got ahold of the estimator's supervisor. Ten days later I finally got an adjusted invoice (which still seemed a bit high and I don't trust as far as I can throw it); noticeably absent from the updated invoice was any sort of discount for having to spend almost six weeks to get it right, nor was there any sort of apology. The only conclusion I can draw from their lack of apology is that this is status quo for them and they were likely hoping I would just pay the full amount and not notice what was going on. There are plenty of good electricians out there. Do not waste your time with these guys, especially for an average quality of work.

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Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Washington

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Rating
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived early, and was very personable. He did a great job and came up with a couple of alternatives that worked out well. The plumbers were here doing plumber things and he was able to work with them to come up with a joint solution to moving a gas line that would've impacted an electrical outlet. All in all, I was very pleased with the service.
- Ron V.
A

Rating
Our experience with Tmothy and
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
could not have been better. We bought a foreclosed property that had been a rental for over a decade. It's fair to say there was a lot of deferred maintenance and the fixtures screamed 1995. We hired Tmothy to help us update and to make sure our electrical systems were safe. Tmothy replaced several ceiling fans and light fixtures inside the house, removed the track lighting and installed pot lights in our bedroom and bathroom, upgraded our porch lighting, replaced all the bathroom fans, re-wired the TV cable so the darn thing wasn't running across the bedroom wall, upgraded our hardwired fire alarms, and checked our outlets. In one instance, Tmothy was even able to fix a buzzing (!) light fixture in a shower that several other electricians had tried and failed to fix. In terms of his work style, Tmothy was unerringly professional and punctual. He was eager to accommodate our needs and even stayed late (twice) so I wouldn't have to take additional time off work.
- Arturo G.
A

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I'm recently inherited a house and needed to make sure the electrical was up to code. CET was recommended to me so I contacted then to check things out. The technician checked out the panel which was fine. However he discovered and explained that the wiring for the outside lights and plug in the back of the house had not been done correctly and also represented a safety hazard. I hired them to correct the issues. The technician arrived promptly and performed all work within the estimated time. The work was well done and I am very satisfied with the outcome.
- Edward D.
A

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AMAZING! As a relatively frugal and research-based customer, I made sure to get 5 different contractors and electricians to see and quote me the work to be done. Off the bat,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
came in knowing exactly what to do. His first visit took 15 minutes (others took 30-45 min of mostly chatting BS), where he looked at what I was asking and he offered what he could do. He quoted me on the spot with an awesome price, that matched or beat other quotes. Aside from the price, out of all the electricians I spoke to,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the only one that was confident and clear on how he would get the work done. All other providers were unable to resolve the issue with the phone line, which
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to just knock it out of the park. I was happy to hire J&G. Booking was easy, over the phone, and quick to respond, setting up a clear timeframe. When other contractors were saying it would take one and a half days,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
said it would take 4 hours. Made me suspicious, but after reading other reviews, and based on his confidence and style, I decided to go ahead with the work. On the day of work,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up exactly at the agreed upon time. He got to working, while I was working on my own job (work from home). He got the job done quickly, and talked out different options throughout the job, in case I felt like changing something. I did end up making some changes to his original plan based on changing circumstances and his suggestions. At the end of the job, he cleaned up (even though I offered to do it), and when I changed my mind on payment (credit card vs check), he had no problem (even though everyone prefers cash). I even found a last minute angieslist coupon, which he honored (I would have told myself to f-off).
J&G Electric is a small family-owned operation with
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
and the owner. They are busy, but they made the time to meet my needs. I met with their competitors to get some comparable quotes, and the competitors were good as well, but the fact that J&G works by contracts instead of by hour, makes a huge difference in how they quote and how they work.
I'm a fan and I'll be sure to hire them again for other upcoming projects.
- Alan G.
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They were extremely knowledgeable and made sure to clean up after the job was finished. The quote was exactly as discussed on the phone. I would definitely use them again.


- Robert S.
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Representative kept in touch to let me know when he would arrive. He let me know he would need to cut into drywall that would be left for me to have repaired. He took time to learn how the existing receptacles were connected in the old wiring in this house and replaced the existing receptacles with GFI. He was professional and diligent in his work....More /> My only complaint was the lack of clean-up afterward. I was left not only with the dust and wire pieces, but with receptacle covers to replace. I recommend the electricians carry hand vacs and tidy up when work is complete, which would be much appreciated by customers.
Overall, the work and the professionalism were excellent, but a clean leave taking really counts as well.
- SALLIE S.
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Rating
I have called Mr.
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
three times now, and have been really impressed with the professionalism, punctuality, skill, and the company in general. However I think that they've priced themselves so high now that I will only use them for complex jobs that would make the cost worth the expertise. This last job cost about $350 / man-hour (after accounting for the smoke detectors themselves), and the previous time when I was provided a quote that I declined would have been over twice that rate ($1000/hr). That calculation is based on the time it ended up taking for someone else to do the job. So if cost is not a factor, you should be very impressed with their service. But if you are not rolling in dough (as I'm not) then I'd look elsewhere.


- Larisa W.

All Electricians in Washington, DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

INTEGRAL MARKETING INC

5000 PHILADELPHIA WAY

INTERFACE ELECTRIC

2055 L ST NW
Washington

ISOMET CORP

5263 PORT ROYAL RD

It's Electric

555 Thayer Ave

Italian Remodeling

11535 0lde tiverton circle

ITE CONTRACTING INC

7624 INVESTMENT CT

J & A CONTRACTOR

509 LINDSAY CT

J & E Home Services

10118 Hampton Woods Dr

J & M SVC

12055 TECH RD

J & P ELECTRIC

9219 PALOMA LN

J & R Construction Services

6357 31st Pl NW
Washington

J & R REPAIR CO

1507 MOUNTAIN VIEW RD

J & S ELECTRIC CO

9159 BROOKVILLE RD

J Gardner Svcs

10320 Cleveland St

J H BRADBY ELECTRICAL CONTRS

7325 GEORGIA AVE NW
Washington

J J CREWE & SON INC

7110 MICHAELS MILL RD

J K ELECTRIC

5 SWANSEA CV

J M QUANN

701 Hanover St

J P ELECTRIC INC

29211 THREE NOTCH RD

J W FREW ELECTRIC

26317 Mullinix Mill Rd

J&J Mechanical

po box 8332

J&L HOME IMPROVEMENTS

1003 fairmont st nw washington dc
Washington

J.o Electric

becket ct

J.R Remodeling Inc

1485 Eden Drive

J.S. Remodeling

1734 Whitestone Ct

JAAR Remodeling

3443 Aububon Ave

Jabs Construction Inc

17869 Fraley Blvd

JACK STONE SIGN CO

3131 PENNSY DR

Jacob's Ladder

4972 Swinton Dr

Jaffe Electric Inc

25648 Coltrane Rd

Jaks Services Inc

9113 Glenville Rd

James A Wheat & Sons Inc

7834 Beechcraft Ave.

JAMES CHAPPELLE CO

4321 TOWNSLEY AVE

James Connor

Washington

James Hemphill Company

37748 Legard Farm Rd

Jav Remodeling

1320 Old Chain Bridge Rd

JAY'S ELECTRICAL SVC

7255 OLIVERS SHOP RD

JB'S CONTRACTING

106902 CAVALIER DR

JBD Electric

3228 Duke Street

JBI Services LLC

7836 Airpark Rd

JBJ ELECTRIC SVC

5822 SUNDERLAND CT

JC Hanson Enterprises; LLC

161 Double Church Rd

JC Smith, LLC

210 W Burke Street

JCC Electric

13681 Bent Tree Ln Box 204

JCG Residential, Inc.

13564 Minnieville Rd.

JCM Contractors

14697 Richard Simpson Ln

JCN GENERAL CONTRACTOR LLC

14001 MONTOCLAIR LN

JCW Construction Inc

30041 Hickory Dr

JD Capital Construction

6800 Arlington Blvd

JD Contractors LLC

2512 N Scott St

JD Moore Construction LLC

8721 Little River Trpk

Jenkins Restorations

109 Juliad Ct Ste 105

JERRY'S ELECTRIC

5900 GARY DR

JES ELECTRIC INC

2106 32ND ST SE
Washington

JETT MECHANICAL

5701 GENERAL WASHINGTON DRF

JF General Services

11712 Veirs Mill Rd

JI Electric

4003 Elmwood dr

Jim Stalp Handyworks

7418 Dunston St

Jim the Handyman

8601 Victoria Rd

Jim's Inc.

PO Box 5451

JK Electric

13518 Darter Ct.

JKJ Electric Inc

638-F Lofstrand Ln

JKM ELECTRIC INC

7851 AIRPARK RD

JL Electric

8571 S Ridge Dr

JM Contractors

1012 N. Kennesaw Street

JM Residential Solutions Inc.

8323 Linden Oaks Ct.

JMC ELECTRIC

9237 HUMMINGBIRD TER

JML ELECTRIC LLC

10214 Magnolia Grove Dr

JMN SERVICES

4520 ANDES DR

JNVIS llc

6602 Declaration Ct

JO ELECTRICAL LLC

47597 COMER SQ

JOE'S MECHANICAL SVC

14704 DELANO DR

John Brady

1228 M St NW
Washington

John C Flood of Virginia

6430 General Green Way

JOHN E KELLY & SONS ELECTRICAL

8431 OLD MARLBORO PIKE

JOHN J KIRLIN INC

1800 EISENHOWER AVE

JOHN J KIRLIN INC

100 BUREAU DR

JOHN J KIRLIN JOB

440 L ST NW
Washington

JOHN J KIRLIN LLC

515 DOVER RD

JOHN J KIRLIN MECHNAICAL

2300 DULLES STATION BLVD

John Krause Construction

11565 Bootstrap Tr.

John Nugent & Sons Inc

1387 Chain Bridge Rd

John's Home Improvement Specialist

809 carriage house lane

JOHNSON CONTROLS INC

5740 GENERAL WASHINGTON DR

JOHNSTONE PLUMBING & TILE

13597 CASTLEBRIDGE LN

Jomar electric corporation

7885 Coppermine Dr

JONES ELECTRIC CO

2615 30TH ST NE
Washington

Jorge The Electrican

6413 Gildar st.

JOSEPH T FAMA INC

14629 PEACH ORCHARD RD

JOSHUA CONSTRUCTION INC

13-15 E DEER PARK DR

JP Painting Plus

2600 Gaither Street

JS Construction

5057 12th St S

JSK ELECTRIC

5249 Stewart Rd

JTG ELECTRIC CO

9 DOUGLAS CT

Juan Linares

2822 Lindel St

Juan Osegueda

14419 Meridian Dr

JV Improvements

2702 Byron St

K & H Electric LLC

2505 Deepford Dr.

K & H Electric, Inc.

8920 Chesapeake Ave

K & W ELECTRIC

PO BOX 509

K & W Repair Inc

26234 N James Madison Hwy

k A Construction Inc

72 Royal Hills Dr

K G JOHNSON INC

4520 MACK AVE

K T MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

2734 E Oakland Park Blvd Ste 106

K&K Electric

7151 Eggbornsville rd

K4 Associates LLC

649B Lofstrand Lane

KAMAU ANDERSON

1331 EMERSON ST NW
Washington

Karbyte Contracting LLC

2729 N Jefferson St

Kargmans Inc

10429 Reisterstown Rd

Karibu Contractors

17954 Pond Rd

KBM Mechanical Service INC

451 Hungerford Drive

KBR Kitchen & Bath

11055 Lee Highway

KBR Kitchen & Bath

7008 Wisconsin Ave

Khanelec

6712 Woodland Rd

KINETIC ARTISTRY INC

7216 CARROLL AVE

Kitchen & Bath Depot

11637 Boiling Brook Pkwy

Kitchen and Floor Master

5765 Burke Centre Pkwy

Kitchen Planners

12140 Parklawn Dr

Kitchen Saver

10315 S Dolfield Rd

Kitchens by Design Inc

5281 Ellicott Dr

KLA-TENCOR CORP

10374 BATTLEVIEW PKWY

KLH Construction LLC

426 Magnolia Dr.

KMM TELECOMMUNICATION

11741 CAPITAL DR

KMR ELECTRIC SVC CO

12427 HEDGES RUN DR

Kolb Electric

44964 Underwood Ln Ste E

KOLB ELECTRIC

5706-K General Washington Drive

Kolb Electric

3000 Ventrie Ct

Kolb Electric Inc

5901 Blair Rd NW
Washington

KOLB ELECTRIC INC

7914 Queenair Drive

Kolb Electric Inc

6774 Dorsey Road

Konde Electric

2618 Sherman Ave NW
Washington

KRUPSAW ELECTRIC

1701 KIVA RD

KSN Contracting Inc

39925 Mrs Grave Rd

KurganContracting

11800 Old Georgetown Rd

KUZMA CONSTRUCTION

10139 CEDAR LN

KVA Electrical Contractors, Inc

4193 Minnesota Ave NE
Washington

KWC Inc

10756 Middleboro Dr

L & M ASSOC INC

1205 E PATUXENT DR

L & S ELECTRIC INC

46453 Montgomery Place

L & S ELECTRIC INC

123 ROWELL CT

L A FRITTER & SONS INC

4908 CRESTON ST

L K DEAL

1500 OLDBURY DR

L&G Quality Service LLC

4018 Woodland RD

L&K Home Improvement

5014 Wheeler Rd

Labran Construction LLC.

14616 Peach Orchard Rd

Lacey Home Repairs

12036 Rutherglen Place

LAGUNA ELECTRICAL & AIR SERVICES

12501 TIMBER HOLLOW PLACE

Lake & Associates

3405 Orme Dr

Lakewood Home Builders, Inc.

10008 POURING Rain Pl

Lamp And Lighting Gallery

9691 Fairfax Blvd

Lamp Factory Outlet

13011 Fair Lakes Shopping Ctr

Landers Appliance, Inc.

7032 Golden Ring Rd

LANDIS & STAEFA INC

6901 MUIRKIRK MEADOWS DR

Landis Construction Coporation

7059 Blair Rd NW
Washington

LANIER ELECTRONICS

651 COMMERCE DR

Lapole Electric, LLC

19630 Shepherdstown Pike

Larkin Remodelers LLC

12587 Fair Lakes Cir

LARRY BROX

3006 12TH ST NE
Washington

Larry Doyle Roofing & Remodeling

150 south sterling blvd

Lensis Builders Inc

12060 Cadet Ct

LEO CONSTRUCTION

8196 EUCLID CT

LEPRECHAUN ASSOCIATES

1508 S WALTER REED DR

Let George Do It

2689 Lydia Ct

Leverage Contractors Inc

7424 Prince George Rd

Levi Company Construction

20296 Youngs Cliff Rd

LewLew Enterprises, Inc

1629 K Street, NW Suite 300
Washington

LG Contracting

PO Box 100565

Lhee Electric

14815 Build America Dr

LHS LLC

20008 Wanegarden Ct

Liberty Energy LLC

11655 Gilman Ln

LIBERTY HOME SVC INC

506 JENNIFER CT NE

LICHTMAN COMMUNICATIONS

5257 BUCKEYSTOWN PIKE

Lighthouse Electric, Inc.

3608 Stoney Castle Street

LIGHTHOUSE OUTDOOR LIVING

1807 SOUTHWOOD CT

LIGHTING MAINTENANCE INC

7664 FULLERTON RD

LIGHTING SERVICES & SUPPLIES

10075 Tyler Ct Ste 1

LIGHTING UNLIMITED

11760 PARKLAWN DR

LIGHTSCAPES

6202 BUTTERCUP LN

LIGON ELECTRIC INC

6522 OLD LANDOVER RD

Liker Property Management/Development LLC

2132 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington

Limitless Design & Build, LLC.

12587 Fair Lakes Cir #263

LINCOLN ELECTRIC CO

604 S KING ST

Line Locators Inc

42232 Green Meadow Ln

Live Wire Contractors

2624 Tabiona Cir

LIVERPOOL ELECTRIC

3009 GAZEBO CT

LLOYD ELECTRIC

36070 AVIATION YACHT CLUB RD

LMNO Projects

12464 B Renner Rd

Loayes Painting

Po Box 1201

Local Handyman Services

12213 Lucasville Rd.

Lofft Construction, Inc

616 Kennedy St NW
Washington

LOGAN SERVICES INC

10137 LAKE JACKSON DR

LOMAR CONTRACTING

318 CHURCH ST

Lone Star Electric, Inc.

13620 Rush Drive

Long Electric

6317 Quinn RD

LONG ELECTRIC CO

15518 ORCHARD RUN DR

LONG FLOOR DISTRIBUTING LLC

11950 BALTIMORE AVE

Long's Corp

11215 Lee Hwy

LOPEZ ELECTRICAL

3722 COLUMBIA PK

LOU BAUMANN

3434 SHORE DR

LOUDOUN ELECTRICAL

104 Carpenter Dr

Lowe's

16301 Heritage Blvd

LOWERY MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

1150 18th St NW Ste 800
Washington

LOY'S APPLIANCE

1827 PIMMIT DR

LPR MECHANICAL

12220 ADEN RD

LSG STRATEGIES

2120 L ST NW
Washington

LT Electric

3200 marquis dr

LUCCIS

10310 BERNARD CT

LUMEN ELECTRIC INC

5601 VAN DUSEN RD

M & G Contractor

10409 Ashcroft Way

M B NICHOLS CONTRACTING

1650 CROFTON BLVD SUITE # 16

M C DEAN INC

22980 Indian Creek Dr Ste 200

M C DEAN INC

22461 SHAW RD

M J Definis Inc

1511 Harding Ln

M J INTL ELECTRICAL SVC

1818 NEW YORK AVE NE
Washington

M R Electricians Inc

2277 Lewis Avenue

M S ELECTRICAL SVC

6213 WILLIAM EDGAR DR

M&M Quality Home Improvements LLC

6032 Gholson Bridge Ct.

m2 BUILDING AND DESIGN

7407 ALBERMARLE DR

M3 Renovations, llc

11610 Valley Rd

maboco builders, inc.

2358 Southgate Square

MAC General, Inc.

111 Carpenter Drive

MAC OGAY ELECTRICAL INC

7424 BEECHWOOD RD

MACCO

1530 Deer Point Way

MACKEY ELECTRICAL SVC INC

6311 MILL BRANCH RD

MACLEAN HUNTER CABLE TV

11300 ROCKVILLE PIKE

MAD MOTOR WORKS LLC

3440 ROCKEFELLER CT

Made for Me Construction

4012 Hollytree Rd

Mag plumbing & Remodeling

4910 Wakefield Chaple Rd

Magna Construction

2405 Benning Rd NE
Washington

MAGNUS IMPROVEMENTS

13022 STURBRIDGE RD

MAGYAR & ASSOC

12910 HARBOR DR

Majesty Homes Inc

5205 Jarrett Ct

MALDONADO CONTRACTORS

1220 L ST NW
Washington

Malone Electrical Services

7000 Lambert Court

Mannix Heating & Cooling

26955 Gum Spring Road

Manton LLC

5951 Wilton Rd

Marks Electrical Service

1530 9th St NW
Washington

Mart'z Electric Inc.

13715 Batchelors Drive

MARTIN ELECTRIC & HEAT SUPPLY

3861 W WATERSVILLE RD

MARVEL HOMES LLC

1801 Gayfields Dr

MARYLAND CABLE

9609 ANNAPOLIS RD

Maryland Deck And Shed

8026 Green Tree Court

MARYLAND ELECTRIC

2211 SPENCERVILLE RD

Maryland General Contracting

20203 Goshen Rd. #303

Master Bathrooms LLC

8545 Riverside Rd

MASTER ELECTRIC

3420 DANVILLE RD

Master in Building

7205 Lockport Place

MASTER TECHS INC

10405 BALLS FORD RD

Master Wall Rocks Inc.

740r 18TH AVENUE

MASTERS PAINTING

6711 CABIN JOHN RD

Mastric Electrical contracting and servicing

14641 Estate Dr. Woodbridge, VA 22193

Matplex

5204 Sherier Pl, NW
Washington

MAXINE C THOMPSON

12919 CLIFTON CREEK DR

MAXWELL ELECTRIC

20 OLD TIME DR

MAZZ ELECTRIC

5649K GENERAL WASHINGTON DR

MBC services LLC

5695 Columbia Pike

MC DEAN ELECTRICAL

2951 V ST NE
Washington

MC LEAN CONTROLS INC

21 INDUSTRIAL PARK DR

MC LEAN ELECTRIC CO

15920 Donald Curtis Dr

MCAULIFFE TILE

1916 R ST NW
Washington

McCarthy Services

8198 Terminal Rd

McCathran Electric

2 NATIVE DANCER CT

MCCO Michaels Construction Company

12406 Great Park Circle

Mckay's Electric LLC

27690 BARBERS ENCLOSURE WAY

Mclean Electric Co

15920 Donald Curtis Dr

MEADOWS ELECTRIC

6337 SCHOOLHOUSE RD

MECHANICAL DYNAMICS

8201 CORPORATE DR

MENDEZ ELECTRIC INC

13 HERITAGE RD

Mendoza Electric

5606 General Washington Dr.

mendoza general contractor

7951 riggs rd apt 10

MERCEDES BENZ SVC-EURO MOTOR

19750 GERMANTOWN RD

MERCY'S HOME IMPROVEMENT, LLC

13106 NOTTINGDALE DR

MESSINA ELECTRIC INC

12707 ALTICE CT

Metcalf Construction

131 Cabin Hill Lane

METERMAN SUPPLY INC

11890 OLD BALTIMORE PIKE R

METRICO WIRELESS

7340 EXECUTIVE WAY

Metro Design Remodelers

10507 Braddock Rd

METROCOUNT

11820 W Market Pl

METROPOLE PRODUCTS INC

2040 JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY

METROPOLITAN BATH & TILE

6806 LAUREL-BOWIE RD

Metropolitan Bath and Tile

11132 B Rockville Pike Rte 355

METROPOLITAN ELECTRIC MOTOR

4584 EISENHOWER AVE

Meyer Electrical Services

10315 Cherry Tree Ln

MGM ELECTRIC

6747 LEEDS MANOR RD

MH Electrical Services

12359 Weller Rd

MH PASSA ELEC CNTRCTNG LLC

10434 BUSINESS CENTER CT

MHDM Services

PO Box 1663

Michael & Son Services Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Michael C Bower

3981 Dumfries Road

MICHAELS' REMODELING

5521 Southampton dr.

MICRO FEDERAL SOLUTIONS

423 BUCHANAN ST
Washington

MICRO PROBE INC

11715 TIFTON DR

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