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"It went very well.
is an excellent and very personable project manager who employs highly skilled people. He is very responsive, flexible" and a real pleasure to work with. The quality of the work was absolutely first class. All concerned took a real pride in their work,
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who did the granite counter tops and deserves credit for his creative suggestions and for going to four different suppliers to find the perfectly dimensioned top for the island. It's in one single piece no seams.
and Ishmail did the wiring and final paint - great guys to work with also. All pricing was fair and the job completed on time. In conclusion I would not hesitate to recommend this company to any one and we definitely intend to use them again in the future.

-robert B.

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Local Articles in Washington DC

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electricians in Washington DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

#1 Handyman Service

9309 Penrose St

1 ENTERPRISE LLC

1402 North Capitol Street NW
Washington

186 Engineering, PLLC

PO Box 56126
Washington

2000 NETCOM

7501 BUCHANAN ST

3-R Contracting, LLC

237 East Davis Street

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A & R Electric

7636 Airpark Rd

A + Services LLC

11329 Old Prospect Hill Rd

A 1 JEM ELECTRICAL SVC

21341 VILLAGE CT

A A ELECTRIC CO

16510 BATCHELLORS FOREST RD

A Action Home Services

6404 Telegraph Rd

A C Electric Co, Inc.

15829 Redland Rd

A Real Electric Inc

21010 Soutbank St

A S JOHNSON CO INC

8100 CRYDEN WAY

A Stegmeier

4103 Roanoke Rd

A to Z Decorators

3802 Claremont Lane

A to Z Remodeling

7118 Cold Spring Ct

A W MELLOTT

41829 WOODCREST LN

A&K Remodeling

Po Box 2266

A&R Home Improvement

104 Stratford Ave

A&S Electric, LLC

12913 moray rd

A-1 SALES & SVC

2517 PENNSYLVANIA AVE SE
Washington

A-Pro Renovation

1629 K St. NW
Washington

A1 - Simco Electric Inc.

5117 Yorkville Rd

a1-simco electric Inc.

5117 Yorkville Rd

AAC REMODELING

1540 Maurice Dr

AAHI

PO BOX 1285

AARON'S ELECTRICAL SVC INC

10010 WINDING CREEK PL

AARON'S SERVICES INC

7549 CLIFTON RD

AAV INC

8101 Hudson Falls Way

ABB COMBUSTION ENGINEERING

12300 TWINBROOK PKWY

Abbey Design Center

21465 Price Cascades Plz

ABC Design and Build Inc

6715 Blacklick Rd

Absolute Electric LLC

111 Carpenter Drive

AC Remodeling Inc

4 Goodport Ln

AC solutions&more

2109 highcourt ln

ACA Contracting

5500 Holmes Run Parkway Suite C4

Academy Remodeling

8208 Wahly Dr

Accents Painting Plus Inc

12416 Pretoria Dr

ACCU AIRE MECHANICAL INC

3127 MARTIN LUTHER KING JR AVE
Washington

ACCU-READ METER

7813 BELLE POINT DR

Accurate Electric

208 Taylor St

Ace Deck & Fence

1001 N Fillmore St

Ace Services LLC

4722 Martin St

ACEHIGH CO

4620 Columbia Rd

ACES Electric

505 Decatur Rd

ACORN RENOVATIONS

1030 ASHE ST

Active Home Renewal

1409 Broadwood Dr

Acute building construction, llc

2017 Vermont Ave NW
Washington

ACV Home Improvement LLC

6748 Jenny Leigh Ct

Adam Contracting LLC

8811 Sudley Rd

ADDITIONS & MORE

5003 GUNPOWDER RD

ADG Contractor

3120 Collie Lane

ADI TECHNOLOGIES

1487 CHAIN BRIDGE RD

ADM Contracting

3003 Flat Meadow Ct

ADVANCED DATA SYSTEMS INC

16417 TOMAHAWK DR

ADVANCED ELECTRIC

10890 BRANDYWINE RD

Advanced Electric

10495 Greenleaf Place

ADVANCED ELECTRICAL SYS OF VA

11819 FALCON RIDGE DR

ADVANCED POWER CONTROL

3 CAPITOL PLZ SW
Washington

Advent Energy LLC

2909 Preston Lane

ADVIN ELECTRIC INC

10475 THEODORE GREEN BLVD

AERUS ELECTROLUX

1067 ROCKVILLE PIKE

AGB COMMUNICATIONS

3346 TEAGARDEN CIR

AGGADAN ELECTRIC

410 MAIN ST

AHE CONTRACTOR

211 E. Tantallon Drive

AHR SERVICES INC

6226 Berlee DR

Air Benders

23571 Pebble Run Pl

Air Master 07, LLC

3152 Annandale Rd

AIR PERFECT

8640 BECK LN

Air Plus Air Conditioning And Heating

7200C Telegraph Square Dr

Air Purifying Systems

3804 Roxbury Ct.

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

5712 GENERAL WASHINGTON DRF

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

7982 PENN RANDALL PL

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

5915 URBANA PIKE

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

12198 NEBEL ST

Aisner Management

11727 N Shore Dr

Ak Electronics

452A Shadyhill In

AKZ ELECTRIC

8577 LIBERIA AVE

ALAN VANAMBURG JR

294 RONNER LN

Alba Contracting Co

1510 S George Mason Dr

All America Drywall Inc.

10941 Woodfair Rd

All Around Home Improvement

11839 Shire Ct. #32

All Brite Electric Inc

1276 Oates St NE
Washington

All Builders United

6904 Highland St

ALL BY CODE, LLC

PO BOX 6354

All Eco Center

2662 University Blvd W

ALL IN ONE

520 CHISHOLM TRL

ALL IN ONE DATA PRODUCTS

4507 METROPOLITAN CT

ALL PHASE ELECTRIC CO

23685 BILL DIXON RD

ALLEN ELECTRIC CO

12545 PERRYWOOD LN

ALLRAN HEMMER ELECTRIC

3941 Penn Belt Pl

Als Twin Air LLC

12138 Central Avenue Suite 142

AM ELECTRIC INC

12603 S CRAIN HWY

Amarc Solutions

40820 Woodside Place

Ambassador Services Inc

10330 S Dolfield Rd

Amber Electric

10912 Bellehaven Blvd

AMBER ELECTRICAL CONTR LLC

5125 LACKAWANNA ST

AMBIANCE LIGHTING INC

5303 Chrysler Way Ste 101

AMCREST ELECTRIC LLC

4156 Timber Log Way

AMEW Electrical Services

Post Office Road #1305

AMGC LLC

18534 Cherry Laurel Lane

Ample Electric

17527 Kohlhoss Rd

Amptech

9605 Ironsides Rd.

ANALECTRO

523 ROUTE 73 S

ANB Telecom & Electric, LLC

11023B Villaridge Ct.

Ancora Contracting

3351 Highwood Dr. SE
Washington

APPLIED SYSTEMS INTL

333 MAPLE AVE E

ARC ELECTRIC

PO BOX 3685

Arc Electricity

2921 Stillwood Cir #202

Archadeck of Northern Virginia

6312 Seven Corners Ctr

Archangel Remodeling

642 Wayward Dr

ARCHITECTURAL SIGNAGE

10417 METROPOLITAN AVE

Arco Painting & Remodeling LLC

14405 Innsbruck Court

Argent Heating And Cooling LLC

501 Church Street NE

ARH Electric

PO Box 3638

ARITON ISMAILI

1627 R ST NW
Washington

ARJ Group, Inc.

412 H St NE
Washington

Arme Construction, Inc

13317 Rushing Water Way

Armelcom, LLC

4611 COACHWAY DR

Arms Home Improvement

17400 Soper St

ARMSTRONG LIGHT & SOUND

5754 FREE STATE RD

AROUND THE CLOCK PLUMBING

11820 CORNWELL DR

ARROW ELECTRIC

8520 RALEIGH AVE

ASHBY EXCAVATING

181 Doc Stone Rd

Ashford Kirby Inc

438 Girard Street

ASIL SERVICES INC

17873 Fraley Blvd

Associated Designers

2844 Wisconsin Ave NW

Associated Electric, LLC

7144 Boyers Mill Road

Astro Communications

7734 Donnybrook Ct

ASTRO SYSTEMS INC

7979 OLD GEORGETOWN RD

ATLANTIC ELECTRIC LLC

7182 Highland St

Atlantic Green LLC

10825 Houser Dr

ATLANTIC POWER SVC

7988 PENN RANDALL PL

ATLAS COMFORT SYSTEMS

1197 S FERN ST

Atlas Roofing Co

7311 Highland St

ATMOSPHERE INC

8801 Monard Dr

ATS ELECTRICAL

2800 DORR AVE

AUSPEX ASSOCIATES

2402 Jennifer Ct

AUTO BROTHERS

9098 EUCLID AVE

Auto Clinic Care

5531 Nicholson Lane

Auto Stop Limited, Inc.

520 East 25th Street

AV Carpenters LLC.

6 Tarfside Court

AVA ELECTRIC CO

5717 Dix St NE
Washington

AVID RESOURCES

1304 Garrison Ct NE

awm electric service

614 larchmont ave

Axton Handyman Svcs

4414 Middle Ridge Dr

AY COMFORT INC

8117 BLUE BONNET DR

B & B ELECTRIC

2072 WARRENTON RD

B & B Quality Home Improvement

13251 overcup oak court

B BURNS CONSTRUCTION

5019 Rodman Rd

B F BEHAN INC

10437 BALLS FORD RD

B H MILLING

1740 HG TRUEMAN RD

B T Martin Contractors

7130 Rock Creek Dr

B&W Painting Company

329 Prince George Street

B. N. Style LLC

Near Six Flags

B.A.I Construction

2815 Gibson Oaks dr

B.K. Services

504 kibler circle

BACCHUS ELECTRIC

6104 LEE PL

Backyard America

3300 Dill Smith Dr

Bailey & Shipp Electric

2822 Solomons Island Rd

Bair Group LLC

11160 C1 South Lakes Dr

BALLINGER ELECTRIC CO INC

10339 SOUTHERN MARYLAND BLVD

BANE ELECTRICAL SERVICE LLC

21654 STILLBROOK FARM DRIVE

Bankster International

911 6th ST NE Unit#1
Washington

Barratt Construction

PO Box 60463
Washington

Barry's Capentry

5515 Heming Ave.

Basement Masters

1680 E Gude Dr

Bath & Kitchen Showroom

12104 Wilkins Ave

Battlefield Electric

3516 Massaponax Church Rd

BAY TELEPHONE SYSTEMS INC

11890 OLD BALTIMORE PIKE F

Bayfront Electric

3965 Island Landing Ct.

BCS LLC

P.O Box 1154

BEACON CONSTRUCTION

14163 ROBERT PARIS CT

Beacon Electrical Services Inc

8494 E Signal Hill Rd

BEACON ENTERPRISES

7334 CLIFF PINE DR

Bear Electric

1915 Anderson Rd

Bear Rock Electric Inc

Corporate Offices in Mt Airy, MD and

Beauchain Builders Inc

15 Barnswallow Ct

Beautiful Home Services

18909 Fisher Ave

Beautiful Kitchens and Bath

2015 Chaneyville Rd

BECKSTROM ELECTRIC CO

37277 E RICHARDSON LN

Bedrock Construction LLC

22432 Germanna Hwy.

BEE & H ELECTRIC CO

2716 DORR AVE

BEE ELECTRIC

7210 GARY RD

Begue General Contractors Inc

20628 Middlecreek Ct

BELL CO

5272 RIVER RD

BELL ELECTRIC SVC

6207 BALFOUR DR

Bella Casa LLC

14216 Long Green Dr

Benchmark Builders LLC

108 Meadowview Lane

BENNETT MECHANICAL SVC

5920 RACE CAR PL

Bentz Electric

11215 Georgia Ave Apt 608

BERARDI ELECTRICAL

518 UNIVERSITY BLVD W

Berith Builders

13074 Langley Rd

berrelli

2618 zoll lane

BERRY GENRAL & MECHANICAL

5400 CHARLOTTESVILLE RD

Beschenbossel, Dr. John

5225 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington

BEST DRYWALL REPAIR CO

7508 JERVIS ST

BEST ELECTRIC CO

8514 PORTSMOUTH DR

Bethesda Home Improvements

10 Old Bonifant Road

Bethesda Systems

4712 Rosedale Ave

Bexar Maintenance Supply

1275 Red Bluff Rd.

Beyond Design Inc

13215 Twin Lakes Dr

BGE Home

1409 Tangier Dr

BHI

154 SCOTT DR

BIELSKI DESIGN & BUILD INC

1800 Diagonal Road

BIG INC

2800 BLADENSBURG RD NE
Washington

BILL BUHL ELECTRIC INC

207 COURTHOUSE RD SW

BK Contracts

120 Halifax Ave

BK Electric LLC

16015 Jonella Farm Dr

BKG ELECTRIC INC

9112 INDUSTRY DR

BLANTON ELECTRIC INC

7501 NEWPORT RD

BLC Services LLC

22276 Great Trail Ter

Blue Bay Construction

108 E Maple Ave

Blue Jay Electric Inc

6064 Augustine Ave

BLUE LINE REMODELING

20009 Cinnabar Dr

BMC PAINTING, INC

11439 MONTERREY DR

Bob 4 Hire

13001 Buccaneer Rd

BOBBY'S ELECTRICAL SVC

1316 MOUNT VERNON AVE

BOGAN & ASSOC

3325 RICHWOOD LN

Bogan Services

21357 Village Green Circle

BOLT ELECTRIC CO

5614 BERWYN RD

BOND ENTERPRISES INC

1202 RISING RIDGE RD

Bonillas Contractors Inc.

13408 Tamarack Rd

Bonn Group America Inc

1629 K St NW
Washington Dc

BOPAT ELECTRIC CO

305 E 4TH ST

BOS Repairs

4495 Silver Hill Court

BOWEN ELECTRIC SVC INC

7856 BEECHCRAFT AVE

Bowen Remodeling and Design

2146 Priest Bridge Ct Ste 2

Bowie Shell

15651 Annapolis Rd

Boyland Electric Inc

21516 Laytonsville Rd

BP Associates Inc.

4005 Mavis Court

BPI MECHANICAL INC

9103 HAMPTON OVERLOOK

BROOKS ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

3026 7TH ST SE
Washington

Brown Electric Inc

17450 Indian Head Hwy Ste 100

Browns Construction, LLC

10767 Brent Town Rd

BruceMoose.com

123 Maple Ave

BRYANT-BERRY INC

12104 CONWAY RD

BryZac LLC

4423 Lehigh Rd

Budget Bath

2160 East Joppa

BUDGET ELECTRIC

106 DEVLAND DR
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