Washington Electricians

in Washington, DC

3.1K
Electricians are
in Washington

988
Electricians in Washington
are top rated

D
Rated by
Kristin L.
"I purchased a coupon for a ceiling fan installation from
Electrical for $180 because I incorrectly thought I had used this vendor previously. The work was" completed as scheduled and was well executed, but the cost of installing an electrical box was exorbitant, and the coupon was not much of a "discount". The electrician installed the electrical box and then told me of the cost after he had completed installation. Ultimately, the work performed cost twice as much as another electrician I had found on Angie's List who performed the same exact work, including installation of an electrical box, in a different room in my home two months earlier.
A
Rated by
Josh M.
"
was extremely helpful. On the day of the service, despite having their work truck stolen and needing to replace all of their tools,
was" only an hour late for the agreed upon start time and did everything that we asked. We could not be happier with what he did and are extremely appreciative.
F
Rated by
Andrew L.
"Work itself was average. Failed to provide one of four light bulbs and installed the wrong dimmer (estimator stated that the sliding type of dimmer would be used because he "hates"" the other type; however, the knob type dimmer was the one installed). Professionalism and customer service were awful. I originally had them out to do an estimate for a somewhat larger scope of work, and the provided me with an estimate. When I decided to decrease the scope of the work, the estimator said he didn't need to come out and do a new estimate, since I would just be charged for time and materials and it would work out to be a few hundred less and my invoice would reflect that. Fine -- annotated in contract, paid deposit, and moved onto doing the job. After the job was done, I received an invoice for the original, full amount. Called the estimator and he assured me that he would adjust the invoice and I would get a new updated one. A week later I got the same, original invoice. Called him again, same story from the estimator, same result: got yet another original invoice reflecting the original amount. Called again, same result except this time
had the audacity to try and charge me a late fee. I then called the main office, got the usual run around, until I finally got ahold of the estimator's supervisor. Ten days later I finally got an adjusted invoice (which still seemed a bit high and I don't trust as far as I can throw it); noticeably absent from the updated invoice was any sort of discount for having to spend almost six weeks to get it right, nor was there any sort of apology. The only conclusion I can draw from their lack of apology is that this is status quo for them and they were likely hoping I would just pay the full amount and not notice what was going on. There are plenty of good electricians out there. Do not waste your time with these guys, especially for an average quality of work.

Local Articles in Washington

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Washington

N

Rating
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived early, and was very personable. He did a great job and came up with a couple of alternatives that worked out well. The plumbers were here doing plumber things and he was able to work with them to come up with a joint solution to moving a gas line that would've impacted an electrical outlet. All in all, I was very pleased with the service.
- Ron V.
A

Rating
Our experience with Tmothy and
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
could not have been better. We bought a foreclosed property that had been a rental for over a decade. It's fair to say there was a lot of deferred maintenance and the fixtures screamed 1995. We hired Tmothy to help us update and to make sure our electrical systems were safe. Tmothy replaced several ceiling fans and light fixtures inside the house, removed the track lighting and installed pot lights in our bedroom and bathroom, upgraded our porch lighting, replaced all the bathroom fans, re-wired the TV cable so the darn thing wasn't running across the bedroom wall, upgraded our hardwired fire alarms, and checked our outlets. In one instance, Tmothy was even able to fix a buzzing (!) light fixture in a shower that several other electricians had tried and failed to fix. In terms of his work style, Tmothy was unerringly professional and punctual. He was eager to accommodate our needs and even stayed late (twice) so I wouldn't have to take additional time off work.
- Arturo G.
A

Rating
I'm recently inherited a house and needed to make sure the electrical was up to code. CET was recommended to me so I contacted then to check things out. The technician checked out the panel which was fine. However he discovered and explained that the wiring for the outside lights and plug in the back of the house had not been done correctly and also represented a safety hazard. I hired them to correct the issues. The technician arrived promptly and performed all work within the estimated time. The work was well done and I am very satisfied with the outcome.
- Edward D.
A

Rating
AMAZING! As a relatively frugal and research-based customer, I made sure to get 5 different contractors and electricians to see and quote me the work to be done. Off the bat,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
came in knowing exactly what to do. His first visit took 15 minutes (others took 30-45 min of mostly chatting BS), where he looked at what I was asking and he offered what he could do. He quoted me on the spot with an awesome price, that matched or beat other quotes. Aside from the price, out of all the electricians I spoke to,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the only one that was confident and clear on how he would get the work done. All other providers were unable to resolve the issue with the phone line, which
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
was able to just knock it out of the park. I was happy to hire J&G. Booking was easy, over the phone, and quick to respond, setting up a clear timeframe. When other contractors were saying it would take one and a half days,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
said it would take 4 hours. Made me suspicious, but after reading other reviews, and based on his confidence and style, I decided to go ahead with the work. On the day of work,
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up exactly at the agreed upon time. He got to working, while I was working on my own job (work from home). He got the job done quickly, and talked out different options throughout the job, in case I felt like changing something. I did end up making some changes to his original plan based on changing circumstances and his suggestions. At the end of the job, he cleaned up (even though I offered to do it), and when I changed my mind on payment (credit card vs check), he had no problem (even though everyone prefers cash). I even found a last minute angieslist coupon, which he honored (I would have told myself to f-off).
J&G Electric is a small family-owned operation with
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
and the owner. They are busy, but they made the time to meet my needs. I met with their competitors to get some comparable quotes, and the competitors were good as well, but the fact that J&G works by contracts instead of by hour, makes a huge difference in how they quote and how they work.
I'm a fan and I'll be sure to hire them again for other upcoming projects.
- Alan G.
A

Rating
They were extremely knowledgeable and made sure to clean up after the job was finished. The quote was exactly as discussed on the phone. I would definitely use them again.


- Robert S.
A

Rating
Representative kept in touch to let me know when he would arrive. He let me know he would need to cut into drywall that would be left for me to have repaired. He took time to learn how the existing receptacles were connected in the old wiring in this house and replaced the existing receptacles with GFI. He was professional and diligent in his work....More /> My only complaint was the lack of clean-up afterward. I was left not only with the dust and wire pieces, but with receptacle covers to replace. I recommend the electricians carry hand vacs and tidy up when work is complete, which would be much appreciated by customers.
Overall, the work and the professionalism were excellent, but a clean leave taking really counts as well.
- SALLIE S.
C

Rating
I have called Mr.
Washington Electricians Provider Name Locked
three times now, and have been really impressed with the professionalism, punctuality, skill, and the company in general. However I think that they've priced themselves so high now that I will only use them for complex jobs that would make the cost worth the expertise. This last job cost about $350 / man-hour (after accounting for the smoke detectors themselves), and the previous time when I was provided a quote that I declined would have been over twice that rate ($1000/hr). That calculation is based on the time it ended up taking for someone else to do the job. So if cost is not a factor, you should be very impressed with their service. But if you are not rolling in dough (as I'm not) then I'd look elsewhere.


- Larisa W.

All Electricians in Washington, DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 1 JEM ELECTRICAL SVC

21341 VILLAGE CT

A A ELECTRIC CO

16510 BATCHELLORS FOREST RD

A ACTION ELECTRIC

6404 TELEGRAPH RD

A Real Electric Inc

21010 Soutbank St

A S JOHNSON CO INC

8100 CRYDEN WAY

A Stegmeier

4103 Roanoke Rd

A SUPERIOR ELECTRIC CO OF MD

5020 GREEN VALLEY RD

A to Z Decorators

3802 Claremont Lane

A to Z Remodeling

7118 Cold Spring Ct

A W MELLOTT

41829 WOODCREST LN

A&K Remodeling

Po Box 2266

A&S Electric, LLC

12913 moray rd

A-1 SALES & SVC

2517 PENNSYLVANIA AVE SE
Washington

A-Pro Renovation

1629 K St. NW
Washington

A.J. Michaels

4512 York Rd

A1 - Simco Electric Inc.

5117 Yorkville Rd

a1-simco electric Inc.

5117 Yorkville Rd

AAC REMODELING

1540 Maurice Dr

AAHI

PO BOX 1285

AARON'S ELECTRICAL SVC INC

10010 WINDING CREEK PL

AARON'S SERVICES INC

7549 CLIFTON RD

AAV INC

8101 Hudson Falls Way

ABB COMBUSTION ENGINEERING

12300 TWINBROOK PKWY

Abbey Design Center

21465 Price Cascades Plz

Absolute Electric LLC

111 Carpenter Drive

AC solutions&more

2109 highcourt ln

ACA Contracting

5500 Holmes Run Parkway Suite C4

Academy Remodeling

8208 Wahly Dr

Accents Painting Plus Inc

12416 Pretoria Dr

ACCU AIRE MECHANICAL INC

3127 MARTIN LUTHER KING JR AVE
Washington

ACCU READ METER READING

3400 BENNING RD NE
Washington

ACCU-READ METER

7813 BELLE POINT DR

ACEHIGH CO

4620 Columbia Rd

ACORN RENOVATIONS

1030 ASHE ST

Active Home Renewal

1409 Broadwood Dr

Acute building construction, llc

2017 Vermont Ave NW
Washington

ACV Home Improvement LLC

13728 Winding Oak Cir

Adam Contracting LLC

8811 Sudley Rd

ADG Contractor

3120 Collie Lane

ADI TECHNOLOGIES

1487 CHAIN BRIDGE RD

ADM Contracting

3003 Flat Meadow Ct

ADTRAN

1175 HERNDON PKWY

Advanced Electric

10495 Greenleaf Place

ADVANCED ELECTRICAL SYS OF VA

11819 FALCON RIDGE DR

ADVANCED HOME RIGHT

7630 AIRPARK RD

ADVIN ELECTRIC INC

10475 THEODORE GREEN BLVD

AERUS ELECTROLUX

1067 ROCKVILLE PIKE

AFFORDABLE ELECTRIC

2535 FENWICK CIR

AGB COMMUNICATIONS

3346 TEAGARDEN CIR

AGGADAN ELECTRIC

410 MAIN ST

AHE CONTRACTOR

211 E. Tantallon Drive

AHR SERVICES INC

6226 Berlee DR

Air Benders

23571 Pebble Run Place unit 190

Air Master 07, LLC

3152 Annandale Rd

AIR PERFECT

8640 BECK LN

Air Plus Air Conditioning And Heating

7200C Telegraph Square Dr

Air Purifying Systems

3804 Roxbury Ct.

AIR SYSTEMS INC

806A BARKWOOD CRT

Air Treatment Co

518 Mill St NE

Air-Right Energy Design Inc

12167 Livingston Rd

Air-Tech Systems Inc

114 Oakgrove Rd, Ste 101

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

5712 GENERAL WASHINGTON DRF

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

7982 PENN RANDALL PL

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

5915 URBANA PIKE

AIRECO SUPPLY INC

12198 NEBEL ST

Aisner Management

11727 N Shore Dr

AKZ ELECTRIC

8577 LIBERIA AVE

ALAN VANAMBURG JR

294 RONNER LN

Alba Contracting Co

1510 S George Mason Dr

All America Drywall Inc.

10941 Woodfair Rd

All Around Home Improvement

11839 Shire Ct. #32

All Brite Electric Inc

1276 Oates St NE
Washington

All Builders United

6904 Highland St

ALL BY CODE, LLC

PO BOX 6354

All Eco Center

2662 University Blvd W

ALL IN ONE

520 CHISHOLM TRL

ALL IN ONE DATA PRODUCTS

4507 METROPOLITAN CT

ALL PHASE ELECTRIC CO

23685 BILL DIXON RD

ALLEN ELECTRIC CO

12545 PERRYWOOD LN

ALLRAN HEMMER ELECTRIC

3941 Penn Belt Pl

ALTIMATE ELECTRIC INC

1008 RISING RIDGE RD

AM ELECTRIC INC

13123 CABINWOOD DR

AM ELECTRIC INC

12603 S CRAIN HWY

Amarc Solutions

40820 Woodside Place

Ambassador Services Inc

10330 S Dolfield Rd

Amber Electric

10912 Bellehaven Blvd

AMBER ELECTRICAL CONTR LLC

5125 LACKAWANNA ST

AMBIANCE LIGHTING INC

5303 Chrysler Way Ste 101

AMCREST ELECTRIC LLC

4156 Timber Log Way

AMERICAN HOME SERVICES

34 Shining Willow Way

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Home Specialists

13221 Mockingbird ln

AMGC LLC

18534 Cherry Laurel Lane

Ample Electric

17527 Kohlhoss Rd

Amptech

9605 Ironsides Rd.

ANALECTRO

523 ROUTE 73 S

ANB Telecom & Electric, LLC

11023B Villaridge Ct.

ANCHOR ELECTRIC INC

2061 GENERALS HWY

Ancora Contracting

3351 Highwood Dr. SE
Washington

Anderson Construction

12004 Mastbrook Lane

Andre's Technology Empire

1200 Delaware Avenue SW Suite 303
Washington

Andrew Day Electric Inc

832 Oak Hill Ave

Appleton Campbell

100 E Franklin St

Appliance Fix-It, Inc.

5800 Seminary Rd

APPLIANCE SERVICE DEPOT

13514 TABSCOTT DR

ARC ELECTRIC

PO BOX 3685

ARCH-CRAFT DESIGN

2200 ARLINGTON TER

Archadeck Of Northern Virginia

6312 Seven Corners Center

ARCHITECTURAL SIGNAGE

10417 METROPOLITAN AVE

Arco Painting & Remodeling LLC

14405 Innsbruck Court

Argent Heating And Cooling LLC

501 Church Street NE

ARH Electric

PO Box 3638

ARITON ISMAILI

1627 R ST NW
Washington

ARJ Group, Inc.

412 H St NE
Washington

ARME Construction, Inc.

13317 Rushing Water Way

Armelcom, LLC

4611 COACHWAY DR

ARMSTRONG LIGHT & SOUND

5754 FREE STATE RD

AROUND THE CLOCK PLUMBING

11820 CORNWELL DR

ARROW ELECTRIC

8520 RALEIGH AVE

Associated Electric, LLC

7144 Boyers Mill Road

Astro Communications

4365 Americana Dr

ASTRO SYSTEMS INC

7979 OLD GEORGETOWN RD

ATLANTIC ELECTRIC LLC

7182 Highland St

Atlantic Green LLC

10825 Houser Dr

ATLANTIC POWER SVC

7988 PENN RANDALL PL

ATLAS COMFORT SYSTEMS

1197 S FERN ST

Atlas Home Inspection

1614 N Wakefield St

Atlas Roofing Co

7311 Highland St

ATMOSPHERE INC

8801 Monard Dr

ATS ELECTRICAL

2800 DORR AVE

AUSPEX ASSOCIATES

2402 Jennifer Ct

AUTO BROTHERS

9098 EUCLID AVE

Auto Clinic Care

5531 Nicholson Lane

AV Carpenters LLC.

6 Tarfside Court

AV-iDEA LLC

92 Chase Mill Cir.

AVA ELECTRIC CO

5717 Dix St NE
Washington

AVID RESOURCES

1304 Garrison Ct NE

awm electric service

614 larchmont ave

Axton Handyman Services

4414 Middle Ridge Dr

AY COMFORT INC

8117 BLUE BONNET DR

B & B ELECTRIC

2072 WARRENTON RD

B & B Quality Home Improvement

13251 overcup oak court

B & M ELECTRIC

15812 LIVINGSTON RD

B & M ELECTRIC CO

5227 MITCHELL ST

B BURNS CONSTRUCTION

5019 Rodman Rd

B F BEHAN INC

10437 BALLS FORD RD

B H MILLING

1740 HG TRUEMAN RD

B T Martin Contractors

7130 Rock Creek Dr

B. N. Style LLC

Near Six Flags

B.A.I Construction

2815 Gibson Oaks dr

B.K. Services

504 kibler circle

BACCHUS ELECTRIC

6104 LEE PL

Backyard America

3300 Dill Smith Dr

Bailey & Shipp Electric

2830 Solomans Island Rd. Suite B

BALLINGER ELECTRIC CO INC

10339 SOUTHERN MARYLAND BLVD

BANE ELECTRICAL SERVICE LLC

21654 STILLBROOK FARM DRIVE

Barratt Construction

PO Box 60463
Washington

Barry's Capentry

5515 Heming Ave.

Basement Masters

1680 E GUDE DR STE 313

BATH & KITCHEN SHOWROOM

12104 WILKINS AVE

Battlefield Electric

3516 Massaponax Church Rd

BAY TELEPHONE SYSTEMS INC

11890 OLD BALTIMORE PIKE F

Bayfront Electric

3965 Island Landing Ct.

BCS LLC

P.O Box 1154

BEACON CONSTRUCTION

14163 ROBERT PARIS CT

Beacon Electrical Services Inc

8494 E Signal Hill Rd

BEACON ENTERPRISES

7334 CLIFF PINE DR

Bear Electric

1915 Anderson Rd

Bear Rock Electric Inc

Corporate Offices in Mt Airy, MD and

Beauchain Builders Inc

15 Barnswallow Ct

Beautiful Home Services

18909 Fisher Ave

Beautiful Kitchens and Bath

2015 Chaneyville Rd

BECKSTROM ELECTRIC CO

37277 E RICHARDSON LN

BEE & H ELECTRIC CO

2716 DORR AVE

BEE ELECTRIC

7210 GARY RD

Begue General Contractors Inc

20628 Middlecreek Ct.

BELL CO

5272 RIVER RD

BELL ELECTRIC SVC

6207 BALFOUR DR

Bella Casa LLC

14216 Long Green Dr

Benitez General Contractor

6225 Summer Pond DR

BENJAMIN'S ELECTRIC LLC

709 Archer Court

BENNETT MECHANICAL SVC

5920 RACE CAR PL

Bentz Electric

10009 Greeley Ave

BERARDI ELECTRICAL

518 UNIVERSITY BLVD W

Berith Builders

13074 Langley Rd

berrelli

2618 zoll lane

BERRY GENRAL & MECHANICAL

5400 CHARLOTTESVILLE RD

Beschenbossel, Dr. John

5225 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington

BEST DRYWALL REPAIR CO

7508 JERVIS ST

BEST ELECTRIC CO

8514 PORTSMOUTH DR

Bethesda Home Improvements

10 Old Bonifant Road

Bethesda Systems

4712 Rosedale Ave

Beyond Design, Inc.

13215 Twin Lakes Drive

BGE Home

1409-A Tangier Dr

BHI

154 SCOTT DR

BIELSKI DESIGN & BUILD INC

1800 Diagonal Road

BIG INC

2800 BLADENSBURG RD NE
Washington

bingers handyman services

11454 green acres ct

BK Contracts

120 Halifax Ave

BK Electric LLC

16015 Jonella Farm Dr

Blanca's Remodleing

303 Sunbury Ln

BLANTON ELECTRIC INC

7501 NEWPORT RD

BLC Services LLC

22276 Great Trail Ter

Blue Bay Construction

108 E Maple Ave

Blue Jay Electric Inc

6064 Augustine Ave

BLUE LINE REMODELING

20009 Cinnabar Dr

BMC PAINTING, INC

11439 MONTERREY DR

Bob 4 Hire

13001 Buccaneer Rd

BOBBY'S ELECTRICAL SVC

1316 MOUNT VERNON AVE

BOGAN & ASSOC

3325 RICHWOOD LN

Bogan Services

21357 Village Green Circle

BOLT ELECTRIC CO

5614 BERWYN RD

BOND ENTERPRISES INC

1202 RISING RIDGE RD

Bonillas Contractors Inc.

13408 Tamarack Rd

Bonn Group America Inc

1629 K Street NW
Washington Dc

BOPAT ELECTRIC CO

305 E 4TH ST

BOS Repairs

4495 Silver Hill Court

BOWEN ELECTRIC SVC INC

7856 BEECHCRAFT AVE

Bowen Remodeling and Design

2146 Priest Bridge Ct Ste 2

Bowie Shell

15651 Annapolis Rd

Boyland Electric Inc

21516 Laytonsville Rd

Boyles Home Services

308 Palmspring Dr.

BPI MECHANICAL INC

9103 HAMPTON OVERLOOK

Breece Electric

42711 Middle Ridge Pl

BRETCO INC

6231 EXECUTIVE BLVD

BRIDGMAN COMMUNICATIONS INC

45064 UNDERWOOD LN

Broadband Technolgy Corporation

22923 Quicksilver Drive

Brook Custom Remodeling

10114 Oakwood Chase Ct.

BROOKBANK ELECTRIC INC

15245 DEBORAH DR

BROOKS ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

3026 7TH ST SE
Washington

Brown Electric Inc

17450 Indian Head Hwy Ste 100

Browns Construction, LLC

10767 Brent Town Rd

BruceMoose.com

123 Maple Ave

BRYANT-BERRY INC

12104 CONWAY RD

BryZac LLC

4423 Lehigh Rd

Budget Bath

2160 East Joppa

BUDGET ELECTRIC

106 DEVLAND DR

BUHL ELECTRIC

635 E MAIN ST

BUHL ELECTRIC CO

6 N BRIDGE ST

BUHL ELECTRIC CO

2405 JAMES MADISON HWY

BUHL ELECTRIC CO INC

1306 Squire Ct Unit B

BUHL ELECTRIC CO INC

7319 LOCKPORT PL

BUHL ELECTRIC CO INC

3846 JEFF DAVIS HWY

BUHL ELECTRIC CO INC

10210 MARSH RD

Busch Electric

3340 Blue Heron Dr N

BUY CHIMES

3827 JANCIE RD

C & A Electric

4208 48th Street
Previous

Shop Local Electrical Services in Washington

Washington Zip Codes

Join Angie's List to get the best local reviews in Washington.

What Does My Membership Include?
  • Instant access to reviews for 700+ services
  • Exclusive service discounts - up to 70 percent off!
  • Top-notch support from our live call center
How does Angie's List work?
1. Say you need a Electrician
2. Angie's List has tons of detailed, local reviews.
3. Find a winner, and book them.
4. Angie's List is there to resolve any issues.
CBS
Good Morning America
Fox News
USA Today
The Wall Street Journal
MSN money