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Local Articles in Washington DC

What are the warning signs of a main sewer line clog?

Highly rated plumbers describe the warning signs that your main sewer line is clogged, provide tips on unclogging the line, and explain how to avoid scams.

5 ways to avoid a sewer repair or drain cleaning scam

Don't fall victim to a unnecessary service or sewer or drain cleaning scam. Here are five ways to help avoid becoming a victim.

unclogging main line
Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

Sink and tub clogs drain your time, energy and money.

Use a plunger as your first line of defense with a clogged toilet. It can also fix clogs in the bathtub or shower, but be sure to fill the base with an inch of water to help the plunger seal before plunging. (Photo by Katie Jacewicz)
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

Plumbers say the most common cause of toilet clogs is the use of multi-ply toilet paper. Other culprits are baby wipes and other allegedly "flushable" products.

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Leaky plumbing messy area under the sink
Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning

It's a good idea to get to know a good plumber before you have a plumbing emergency. Also, watch out for these red flags of possible plumbing-related scams.

Angie's Answers

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
The simple answer is ,"No!" The only way to effectively clean grease and scum from a drain line (or a neighborhood, jk) is with high pressured water. The machine they use is called a Jetter, many drain cleaning companies have them.

Drain Cleaning reviews in Washington DC


I called on a Saturday morning, praying that someone would take my call. Not only did they answer the phone immediately on a Saturday morning, but they scheduled the servicer for the same day within hours. "Rocky" was dispatched to my home where water from my upstairs bath was backing up into the downstairs bathrooms. Rocky looked at the conditions and was able to see that I had actually had a main line clog / back up. He showed me where there was evidence that this was not a one time event as I had residue from a previous back up in a 1st floor bath that no one used. He was on-time, (actually early), professional, respectful of my home, and even showed me why I would not need additional up-charged services, as it could have actually done more detriment in my situation. It was great. You never think of a weekend emergency service as great, but this was. As I had no main line access from my home, Rocky had to remove the 1st floor toilet to access the lines. When it was all said and done, after 65ft of snaking, the toilet was even replaced better than it was when removed. I would highly recommend them. Hopefully I won't need anymore major services, but even for small clogs, I would call again.
- MJ D.

Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and went right to work unclogging the drain with a professional snake. I had tried to unclog the drain with my 1/4 inch 25 foot snake without luck earlier before calling in a professional. I live on the second floor of a nine floor building and the clogged drain was a Christmas present from those above me. I came home from work early to find my sink overflowing onto the floor and out into the hallway. I had not run the dishwasher that morning. What a mess! Of course, I tried the fix it myself solution first before calling in the professional.
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
unclogged the drain on the first try.
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was very nice and professional. He took care to not damage any of the surroundings and cleaned up after. Then he was gone in a flash. I was beginning to wonder if there were reindeer involved.
- Mark C.

From my first phone call,
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
worked to understand my problem and dispatch someone quickly. They sent their only master plumber,
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, who effectively snaked my drain. The snake job cost $250. But because he needed to start the snake behind the dishwasher, and not under the sink,
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
charged me an extra $100 to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. He also identified a leaky dishwasher hose, which he charged $25 to replace. I was happy with
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and the work he did, but thought the price too high. It cost almost $400 for a job that took less than two hours.
- Chris F.

I purchased the $99 for $200 plumbing services and got more than I bargained for. They found bigger issues with our sink drain and had to replace valves. Then they unclogged a second sink. They had to return 3 more times for other issues including replacing a leaky toilet and replacing a bath faucet that was preventing the shower from working. They were courteous and professional and gave reasonable prices.
- Tom A.

I want to sing the praises of
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
. For more than a decade we have experienced periodic overflow from a basement floor drain on the same line as our kitchen sink and washing
machine. Our regular plumbing company periodically “cleared out” the drain and told us that a permanent fix would involve digging-up 20-30 feet of our basement floor and would be prohibitively expensive and might not even solve the problem.
When we had an overflow problem only a few weeks after the latest “clean out” from our plumbing company we decided to bring in someone else to see if they could figure out what was going on. “Rocky” from
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
arrived (on time) and spent over an hour
cleaning out the drain before he could even get his video camera down the drain to see what the problem was. It seems that when our well known
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
plumbing company came out to unclog the drain they just poked an opening in our clog and never totally cleared out the grease and crud. Hence, the need to come back every 12-18 months to “clean out the drain.”
“Rocky” unclogged the drain knocking off huge chunks of debris and grease that I saw on the video. He finally got the pipe clear enough to put his video camera down the drain, systematically ran water from different sources in the house and finally pinpointed the problem area. He then used a
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
tool to plot the problem area “above ground” on the basement floor. Finally we could see that the problem was not at all where we had been told it was, and was actually in a fairly accessible place. Although Rocky got water flowing at good speed through the drain he was concerned about 2 holes he found in the ceiling of the pipe. The following day the owner , “
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
”, came out to take a second look and provide an estimate for replacing a segment of the pipe. He re-ran the video camera through the drain, went over the problem and told us we did NOT need to replace the pipe!
Impressive. All American Drain merits high
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
on many fronts. For solving a complex problem that others couldn’t, for sending out skilled technicians who really know their
job, and for being honest. On top of all that they gave me a 10% Angie’s list discount without my asking!
- Margaret P.

It was fine. They were prompt and did a good job. They fixed the problem right away and if there was any added fee it wasn't very much at all. It was quick.
- Bill C.

I called to ask for a plumber to come to my condo in DC, and was pleased at how efficient the process was. The phone conversation was pleasant, and the woman I spoke with made sure I understood how long the work would take, who would be coming to complete the work, etc.

Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was the plumber who came to my home, and I was incredibly pleased with his professionalism, knowledge, and willingness to explain everything to me. He showed up on time, described everything (as well as what it would cost) before he started the work, and was happy to talk me through everything as he did it. He showed me where the water line would run through the bottom of the cabinet, and even took a few minutes to demonstrate how to turn off the water supply in case of an emergency, as well as a offer tips which would help with any minor hiccups. He was clearly an expert, and was nothing but polite the entire time he was working. I will absolutely use
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
again because of
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
's work ethic.
- Matthew C.

Great service! Called
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
as sewage was backing up into crawl space under the house. They sent someone out on the same day, and he called to let me know when he was on his way.
Washington DC Drain Plumbers Provider Name Locked
was the plumber that serviced the request and he was very thorough. He not only found and solved the problem in about 1/5 of the time it took a previous plumber to complete but also notified me of other issues that were due to recent plumbing work that was done incorrectly. He was courteous, professional and above all honest in his assessment. He checked the sewer line in back of the house, found that there was stagnant debris; he informed me that the city should be requested to come out and service this. Expensive, but as with most services, you get what you pay for.
- Christopher W.

All Drain Plumbers in Washington DC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

4 Service Pros

2010 Corporate Ridge

4FastPlumber LLC

13841 Pine Ln

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A Action Services LLC

6404 Telegraph Rd

A D White Plumbing & Heating

3834 Mount Olney Ln

A H Jordan Plumbing & Mechanic LLC

1818 New York Ave NE Ste 113


906 Montgomery Street

Abe’s Plumbing in VA

7237 Calvert St

Accents Painting Plus Inc

12416 Pretoria Dr


4620 Columbia Rd

Area Construction

12339 Folkstone Drive

Argent Heating And Cooling LLC

501 Church Street NE




14844 Cranoke St

BGE Home

1409 Tangier Dr

Bill's Handyman Service

14713 Crenshaw Dr

BK Contracts

120 Halifax Ave

C.E.B. Services, LLC

341 Ritenour St



Calix Plumbing LLC

14056 Madrigal Dr.


4101 Waterbuck Way

Carlos Camayo

9290 Towerside Dr

Casco Plumbing

106 Halifax Ave

Coleman Plumbing & Heating Co

13414 Fairland Park Dr

Coleman's Plumbing Inc

10725 Hampton Mill Ter

Commercial Restorations

13433 Tilford Court




8421 Hilltop Rd

Crown Plumber

19358 Wrenbury Lane

DiGiulian Plumbing Co Inc

10805 Belmont Blvd

Discount Services

6402 Etheridge Lane

Doe's Plumbing

12424 Ronald Beall Rd

Durance Plumbing

621 Admiral Drive #308

Duvall Corp

8103 B Centreville Rd

Dwyer Plumbing Corp

8394-J Terminal Rd

Elkot's General Services

1509 s. george mason dr


PO BOX 25707

Emerald Plumbing

4645 Nannie Helen Burroughs Ave NE

Emerald Plumbing Co.

3180 Draper Drive

Feature Construction LLC

3831 S. George Mason Dr.




10227 Antietam Ave.



five handyman llc

10209 leslie ct apt 306



Foley Plumbing Inc

10111 Greeley Ave

Foley Plumbing Inc

6583 Merchant Place


5714 16th St NW

Franconia Plumbing LLC

5464 Peaceful Ter

Franklin Construction LLC

10377 Green Holly Ter

Fred and Son Plumbing

4911 Aspen Hill Rd.

Free Line Inc

9244 E Hampton Dr

Fridinger-Richie Co Inc

132 E Washington St

Friedman Plumbing Express

13549 Flowerfield Drive

Friedman Plumbing Express

1319 Powhatan Street


11826 PIKA DR

George The Plumber

2608 Redmiles Dr

Gerber HandyMan Services

5556 Neddleton Ave

Germantown Plumbing

13017 Wisteria Drive

Gladhill Plumbing & Heating Inc

10510 Woodsboro Pike

Golden Plumbing Services


Graham Restoration LLC

11271 James Madison highway

Grass Roots Inc

PO Box 6054


5123 Crittenden St

Handyman Ashburn

43350 Greyswallow Terrace

Handyman Connection of Maryland

19520 Club House Road

Harvey W Hottel Inc

18900 Woodfield Rd

Haynes Plumbing

10509 Lanham Severn Rd.

Haynes Plumbing LLC

2824 F Dorr Ave





HMS Plumbing

10319 Piper Ln

Hollin Hall Plumbing

5221 Franconia rd #10154

Home Contractors Plus

8402 Quill Point Dr

Home Town Plumbing, LLC

6423 Carriage Drive


10476 Business Center Ct

Homeowners Discount Plumbing

2928 PS Business Ctr Dr

Homepros Contracting

12612 Izaakwalgon Drive

Honest Abe Plumbing Heating & Cooling

7095 Milford Industrial Rd.

House Doctors

218 N Lee St

HP Building Electric Llc

140 Little Falls St Ste 103

HPC Maintenance, LLC

4010 Brussels Way



Ideal Plumbing Services

8024 Tyson Oaks Circle

IED painting services

6335 landover rd


15751 Crabbs Branch Way

J.E. Merino Plumbing

3610 Freeport Ct

J.J. Handyman Services

3022 Javier Road

J.R Remodeling Inc

1485 Eden Drive

Jaks Services Inc

9113 Glenville Rd

James A Wheat & Sons Inc

7834 Beechcraft Avenue

Jav Remodeling

1320 Old Chain Bridge Rd

JBI Services LLC

7836 Airpark Rd

JC&P General Contractor

5500 Lakewhite Ct

JCG Residential, Inc.

13564 Minnieville Rd.

Jim Stalp Handyworks

7418 Dunston St

Jim's Inc.

PO Box 5451

Jimmy Greer Plumbing

5048 Free State Road

JJN Construction Inc

4809 Howard Ave

John C Flood of Virginia

6430 General Green Way

John G Webster

10738 Tucker St

Joseph C Bauer Inc

8035 A Penn Randall Pl



JPG Plumbing Services, Inc.

8260 Patuxent Range Rd Ste H

JR Snider Plumbing

104 S Pendleton St



Juan Linares

2822 Lindel St

JW Home Improvement

1390 Chain Bridge Rd

Kargmans Inc

10429 Reisterstown Rd

Larry's Plumbing

Washington, D.C.

Lauck Plumbing Inc

973 Ferndale Ave

Len The Plumber

1552 Ridgely St

Leverage Contractors Inc

7424 Prince George Rd

Liberty Plumbing

4264 D Entre Ct

Lorenzo's Plumbing Inc.

12458 A Liberty Bridge Rd





M E Flow Inc

12 Cardinal Park Dr

M&M Quality Home Improvements LLC

6032 Gholson Bridge Ct.


5840 Cameron Run Terrace





Mady-Sons Inc

386 Maple Ave East

Mag plumbing & Remodeling

4910 Wakefield Chaple Rd

Magna Construction

2405 Benning Rd NE

Magnolia Plumbing Inc

600 Gallatin St NE

Mahon Plumbing Inc

6824 Fort Smallwood Road



Matt Engel

P.O. Box 5543

Michael Albarelli

104 Balmoral Dr E

Michael C Bower LLC

3981 Dumfries Road

Michael Matters Plumbing

507 Thunderbird Dr

MJ Home Services LLC

4367 Hollins Ferry Rd

Molina's Contruction INC

7532 Quail Run Ln

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