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Virginia Beach Mold Removal Experts from people just like you.

"We had mold in our upper kitchen cabinets and ceiling due to condensation from our AC ducts. ERS came in and removed the cabinets, cleaned off the mold in the ceiling" and dried e area out. They were prompt and efficient. They cleaned up afterwards and did an overall fantastic job!

-Mary W.

"They came to my house within 30 minutes, found the leaking pipe, turned off the water. Then they cleaned the entire house that the water damaged. " was so good, they made the house look better than before the leak. The supervisor arrived shortly after, fully explaining the process and helped me make an insurance claim. Very helpful because I had never made a claim before. They came in next day, cutting out wet walls and they found mold. Immediately they contained the area with a enclosure and hooked up some fancy equipment that the tech told me would keep the mold from spreading. He was very helpful explaining the entire process. With in a week, they had cleaned up the water mess, removed the mold, put some sort of sealant on the mold which he told me would prevent it coming back in those spots, and then they rebuilt the walls, cleaned all my carpets, repainted. The amazing part was that communicated with us so well, we knew exactly what was going to happen every step of the way. Thank you for respecting us as a family in need and treating us as if we were your family. Truly made this hard part of our lives much easier.

-Henry M.

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Local Articles in Virginia Beach

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Virginia Beach


Needed an air quality evaluation due to medical problems. from Restoration Services came by the day after we contacted them. He did a whole house visual inspection, and took many air samples. These sample were then sent to a lab to be analyzed. Restoration Services then provided a full and detailed report of what was found. ...More Restoration Services folks were very friendly and absolutely professional. I would use them again.
- George D.

apparently we had mold problems that had been festering for two years. I called and he came right out, the next day he had an efficient, courteous and knowledgeable team in place working diligently. They fixed a wall in a bedroom that had a large mold area under wallpaper, caused by a leaking chimney. Then they repaired a large ...More area in the upstairs ceiling, caused by an overflowing air-conditioning unit that had not been installed properly, then left to grow when we were not present. It was a very large job, and after researching on the internet I had expected to pay more for it. When the team was finished, the carpets were vacuumed, the mold smell was completely gone and only a pleasant scent remained. We could not have been happier.
- Mary O.

I was renting a house that we thought had mold. After I scheduled the mold appointment, the realty company decided to move me into a different place. So the mold inspection was not needed. Angie's List was great with refunding the deal and the mold company, , was great with cancelling the appointment, refunding the money, etc.
- Brad M.

I contacted due to what we suspected to be a mold smell in one small area of our house. responded right away and even though he was at a family function, he took the time to really discuss our situation. He explained the different inspections, what they do, and we made an appointment for him to come out. ...More was incredibly professional, knowledgeable, and even though there was no mold to be found, he shared a lot of information, what we can look for, and ideas of what we could do. We would absolutely use in the future.

., technicians installed a new, wider, more accessible door to the crawl space; collected,bagged, carried all old insulation to an approved dumpster site; installed new insulation and a Bithutane water proofing membrane over the entire crawl space including primer, water proofing adhesive, surface drain, and drain box. Their ...More services also included a modified dry well, the dumpster fee, gutter tie-in, joint sistering, main beam replacement, outer seal plate, pier replacement, and fungicide spray.
We are completely pleased; in fact, this is the first time we actually have a good, safe feeling about the protections against mold and moisture under our house. If you want top quality service from friendly and top quality people, we highly recommend Yurcak and his company, . You will not be disappointed! It's rare to find top-of-the-line service, but we certainly found it and are happy to share the good news.
Whatever your concerns may be, whether it's a smaller or a bigger need that's worrying you, Yurcak will come out at your convenience, assess your particular situation, and give you an accurate and detailed estimate along with his recommendations. He and his team will show up at the time he promised, complete the work thoroughly and professionally, and leave nothing for you to clean up afterwards. we've had many different companies complete work for us. These folks are the BEST by far!! Many thanks from us to Yurcak and his employees at .
- Deborah L.

Unfortunately, there was a mix up with my intake sheet and , the owner, missed our first appointment. He was able to come out the following day to take a look at my crawl space. It was recommended that sand was brought in to level out low spots caused by erosion. We spoke of putting together a drainage solution, providing a vapor ...More and addressed potential repair concerns that were brought up by other contractors. My two year old son was with me, so I was really relying on something in writing in order to recall the details of the visit. I was told to expect an estimate and options via e-mail.
I called back a few days later and I mistakenly mentioned encapsulation, without that service/product actually being offered by the company. The details of the visit, when speaking to , were not evident in our conversation and I quickly came to the conclusion that this was not a job that wanted to pursue. I was told, however, that the NAS Crawl Space System for a typical setup like mine would be around $4200.
was very helpful and professional when we met. He took a lot time to explain things but, unfortunately, with my situation that day, I wasn't able to clearly state my expectations in order for the project to progress.
- Kevin S.

The odor is gone. The fan worked well and the crawl space didn't drop below 51 degrees F even during the coldest nights. They fixed my problem and will return in the spring to check the moisture level of the floor joists in the crawl space. I am happy with this contractor.
- Bill D.

Service was excellent. They were prompt, professional, and honest. They finished a week sooner than originally estimated. The estimate was right on target. I would recommend them to anyone - they were wonderful! Thank you so much for your help.
- Cheryl L.

Mold Removal Experts in Virginia Beach

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

911 Restoration Of Hampton Roads

4933 Cleveland St
Virginia Beach

A Better Image Restorations

724 Kennesaw Ct.
Virginia Beach

A-1 Inc Exterminators

1704 S Park Ct

A-Z Creative Contractors

5108 Edon Hall Ln
Virginia Beach


5866 Adderley Street

Ace Home Improvements

5629 Normandy Ave
Virginia Beach

Advanced Engineering Construction

1800 Rokeby Ave


711 Gum Rock Ct Ste 2
Newport News

Air Duct Care

801 Vanderbilt Ave
Virginia Beach

AKN Enterprises


Aljase LLC

234 N Witchduck Rd
Virginia Beach


3700 Storm Bird Loop
Virginia Beach

Aresco of Tidewater, LLC

3452 Chandler Creek Rd
Virginia Beach

ArtDivine Painting, A Home Improvement Company

916 Westwind Place
Virginia Beach

Atlantic Exterminating Company Inc.

734 City Center Boulevard
Newport News

B & J Building Corporation

1755 West Rd.

B2 Health Solutions, LLC

1720 Maryus Ct
Virginia Beach

Bah Hum Bug Pest & Termite Inc

203 Expressway Ct
Virginia Beach


Newport News



Better Built Restoration Inc

1982 Northgate Commerce Pkwy Ste 7E

Brand Home Inspections LLC

3869 Forest Glen Rd.
Virginia Beach

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.

C W Williams Builder Inc.

48 Brickhouse Lane

CAT Team 1 Cleaning & Restoration

3673 sylvan lane
Virginia Beach

Clean Air Solutions Inc.

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Complete Pest Management

721 Emerald Ct
Newport News

DB's Handyman Service LLC

2484 Bayview Ave.
Virginia Beach


Newport News



Emergency Restoration Services LLC

1461 London Bridge Road
Virginia Beach


Manning Road

Environmental Hygiene Solutions

111 68TH Street
Virginia Beach

First Atlantic Restoration

414 S. Parliament Dr.
Virginia Beach

flue busters

3800 Deep Creek Blvd

Gilbert & Son Moisture & Structural Services

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Guardian Duct Cleaning

230 N King St

Guardian Duct Cleaning

1205 Cypress Ave
Virginia Beach

Guardian Duct Cleaning

253 High St

H&L Services

606 Roxbery Industrial Ctr
Charles City

Harrison Contracting Services, LLC

4861 South Oliver Dr
Virginia Beach

Home Inspection All Star Virginia Beach

2622 Southern Blvd
Virginia Beach

Husband For Hire Llc

PO Box 1037


312 Old York-Hampton Hwy

JD Miles & Sons Inc

210 B St

Jenkins Restorations

533 Byron St

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

JNS Pest Control

PO Box 13763

Johnson & Johnson Remodeling

2245 Wake forest st
Virginia Beach

Just Call Home, Inc.

1216 Prince Edward Way


PO Box 1770

Matt's Repair

421 Dauphin Ln
Virginia Beach

McKee Environmental, Inc.

PO Box 61775
Virginia Beach

Michael & Son Services Norfolk

5845 N Hampton Blvd
Virginia Beach

Michael & Son Svc Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Mid-Atlantic Contracting

1625 Peoples Road


2501 Mayes Road

Moldstoppers of Southeast Virginia

3915 Race Street

MSH Homes Inc

2816 Lake Drummond Cswy

New Dominion Contractors Inc

454 Little Neck Road
Virginia Beach

On The Spot Services

804 S Buckingham Court
Virginia Beach


124 23rd St
Newport News




3404 Marabou Lane
Virginia Beach

Poquoson Construction, LLC

P.O. Box 2041

PuroClean Property Damage Restoration

640 Breeds Hill Road
Virginia Beach

Quality Home Inspections

28 Paula Maria Dr
Newport News

Reliance Pest & Termite Inc

644 Prosperity Way

Rolyn Companies

2850 Ansol Lane
Virginia Beach


3530 Airline Blvd


822 Professional Place W

ServiceMaster Restoration Services

200-G Commerce Circle


913 Business Park Dr.

Servpro of Hampton

2807 Build America Drive

Servpro of Kempsville/Military Circle

P.O. Box 64003
Virginia Beach

SERVPRO of Newport News

310-D Ed Wright Lane
Newport News


7440 Central Business Park Drive


2633 Production Rd
Virginia Beach

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Spivey Home Repairs

1128 McSherry court

STANZA Cleaning and Restoration Services

624 Innovation Drive


133 Powhatan Springs Rd


508 Smoketree Pl

The BrickKicker Home Inspections

9726 12th View St.

Tidewater Building Group

2724 Sonic Drive
Virginia Beach


966 Norfolk Square

TMG Construction and Properties LLC

120 Pennsylvania Ave
Virginia Beach

TnT Mold Services

Virginia Beach

Triangle Sealants Corporation

PO Box 6128

United Restoration

360 Cleveland Place
Virginia Beach

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive



Wolak Interiors LLC

1940 Pavilion Dr
Virginia Beach

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