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Over 163 reviews for
Virginia Beach Lawn Mower Repair Shops from people just like you.

"We called the company and scheduled a drop-off time. The staff was very helpful and kind on the phone. We dropped off the lawnmower because it was not running after" sitting through the winter season. We picked up the lawnmower when the service was complete. The lawnmower runs again, but not as good as it did prior to the winter season and service.

-Rebecca B.

"5 days later when they finally got to my mower, they said it needed a new carburetor because they had found some fouled gas in it and it would cost $140. I found" that hard to believe, since I've run the mower less than a dozen times and it has only had clean, fresh gas run through it and it has never sat for more than a few weeks. I only paid $180 for the mower, so I asked if they could rebuild the carb. He said no, it was too hard with all the ports and such. So I said to set it aside and went and picked it up. I got on the & website and paid the $9.40 for the rebuild kit and when it came, I took the carb off and opened up the bowl. There was NO indication of fouling in there and the pin holding the float in place had worked itself loose and was sitting off to one side. So I went ahead and took everything apart and used some carb cleaner to run through the ports and there was no blockage. Put everything back together and made sure the pin was in place and put it back together. Thing started up on the first pull. So then I recalled taking my generator to them last year and they told me the same exact thing... needs a carb, and charged me a huge bill including the time spent waiting for the part to come in. This experience tells me that they didn't even bother to open the carb to diagnose it. If they had, they'd have found the misplaced pin, pushed it back in place, and I'd have been out the door for $35. Instead, they probably just confirmed spark, confirmed it wasn't running, and then decided to take the easy path at my expense. Yes, the new carb would definitely have gotten it running again, but so would the 2 seconds to just push the pin back in place. I won't be going back and don't recommend you use them, unless you have a few hundred bucks you want to waste on an unnecessary carburetor.

-Gregory S.

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Local Articles in Virginia Beach

lawn mower

Lawn Mower Repair and Maintenance

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

push lawnmower

Keep your push mower, riding mower, reel mower, weed trimmer or edger maintained and clean with these tips.

one-story home on a hill with green lawn

Here's how to jump start your spring lawn and landscape projects.

Lukas has had to recruit family and friends to help with the yardwork portion of his business. (Photo by Sandy Moreland)

Lukas Moreland started his lawn care and lawn mower maintence business when he was just 14. Find out what motivates him to keep the business going.

lawn mower cutting grass

Having trouble starting your lawn mower? Angie Hicks explains why it's a bad idea to leave old fuel in your lawn mower for an extended period of time.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Virginia Beach


As stated, work was done in a timely, professional manner. Much time was spent on diagnosing the issues, repair and testing the results. We will continue to use this service and needed and recommend his work.
- Jane G.

The mower was picked up promptly Monday morning as promised. The maintenance and a small repair were done by Thursday. The mower was returned the following Saturday. The other company I have used for this in past years never returned the mower this promptly.

told me it would be at least two weeks before they could look at my lawn mower. It was ready in two and a half weeks. I thought the $100 was slightly expensive, but fair. All old parts were returned and a complete explanation was given for all work done. These folks take pains to be honest and fair. I would return to their shop with confidence.

He got here on time. I got the mower out for him. The man was very professional, and his name was . This guy did what he had to do in record time, he was very professional and courteous, and was just perfect. He really knew what he was doing with the product, and he did a good job.

Called the shop and told them that I have a 42" mower deck and that one of the blades came off when it hit a tree root; sheered off the bolt connecting it to the mower deck. I asked if they could repair it. They said they could and that they were open until 5. About an hour later I took the mower took off my mower and took it to their shop. ...More They immediately took a look and gave me two options to repair it. I chose to replace the part. They said they'd have it done in 30 minutes. Rather than wait I left and came back in about an hour. It was ready when I got there and an employee helped me put the mower deck (heavy) back into my SUV. I paid the man for the repair and for 2 new blades and I was out in 10 minutes.
- Kent C.

had an issue with the tractor's deck and engine cover when I came to pick up the equipment. The owner apologized and fixed/covered everything.
Small motor repair is a tough business, these guys do as good a job as your going to find in Tidewater VA.
- Joseph H.

I have a BOLENS MTD model 11A-414A065 push mower with a & 158cc 550 series engine on top. I had completed cutting the front yard and had just started the back yard. The grass was excessively high as rain had kept me from cutting for just over a week. Since the grass was so high I was using a grass ...More catcher vice attempting to mulch the grass. I was pushing over level ground when the engine stopped.
After letting the engine set for a brief period of time I was able to get it started for upwards of one minute, but then it died again. I had white smoke coming out of the muffler so I changed the oil, but no change in symptoms. I'd gone through the mower's and engine's manufacturers web sites for technical assistance with no definitive guidance. I'd gone through the owner's operating manual with no definitive guidance. Actions taken to this point since this problem arose were:
- Verified gas tank is full of fresh gas - Ensured gas tank is clean - Verified air vents in gas tank cap are clear - Cleaned foam air filter - Verified primer works - Verified carburetor is clean - Changed the oil in accordance with the operator's manual - Carburetor hasn't been adjusted - Spark plug contact is free of corrosion and has a firm connection - Checked for scope of movement of the dead man handle, and that - It's reliably engaged when the handle is gripped. It checks out.
After checking Angie's List I took the lawn mower to . They were up-front about pricing (including initial deposit), work options, and estimated time-frame for proposed troubleshooting. They followed up when they identified the problem, providing me with an (accurate) estimate of the parts and labor. They were courteous and polite.
- Gerald H.

Phone conversation with the owner was very pleasant. The owner was apologetic regarding not being able to provide this service and referred me to another mover repair shop.
- Alan P.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Virginia Beach

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Mobile Mower Mechanic

Southside Hampton Roads
Virginia Beach, Chesapeake & Norfolk


Virginia Beach

All Small Engine & Equipment Service & Repair Inc.

2524 Squadron Court
Virginia Beach

Avail Auto Inc

912 Bowling Green Trail


Virginia Beach

Cedar Law Center, PLC

1206 Laskin Rd #208
Virginia Beach

Craft Repair Inc

550 Rotary St

Davids Lawncare LLC

503 Barlow Dr.

Edgewater Condominium

3615 Atlantic Ave
Virginia Beach

Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

H & H Mechanical

1806 E Little Creek Rd

Hank's Mower Repair

4961 Cleveland St
Virginia Beach

Jeff's Lawn Mower Service & Repair

1908 Sentinec Court
Virginia Beach

Knuckle Busters

521 w ocean view ave

Matt's Repair

421 Dauphin Ln
Virginia Beach

On The Spot Services

804 S Buckingham Court
Virginia Beach

One Man and A Truck Landscaping

506 Barnes Rd

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave


1401 Greenbrier Pkwy Ste 3000


Virginia Beach

Sears Stores Pembroke Mall

4588 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

Southern Lawn Works

4111 Bernard street

STI Turf Care Equipment

6831 George Washington Memorial Hwy


2227 Angler Lane

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