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Reeseville Electricians from people just like you.

"Very professional and nice. I purchased one of the electric services....$39.00 for $149.00 worth of service. It was well worth! They arrived on time. Got right to" work and cleaned up after the service was finished. I have a few more things for them to do and will schedule them to come back out. Thank you.

-rebecca B.

was very responsive and of the estimates we got
was the promptest in getting back with an estimate. Of the 4 estimates" we got 3 including Allans were in the same ball park but Allans professionalism, thoughtfulness and attitude
us to choose him. We were not disappointed. He and his crew came promptly on the appointed day at 730 am, did the work, cleaned up after themselves and departed within a few hours after having done a great job. The wiring was run as unobtrusively as possible. It was run where possible through the unfinished part of the basement,and through a high hat in the finished part. The attitude was friendly and professional throughout. The job was very competently done. Because of the other two estimates, we know the price was probably fair. We were very happy and would not hesitate to hire
and his crew again for anything electrical that we need.


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Local Articles in Reeseville

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Reeseville


Service Tech,
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, arrived as scheduled, assessed my electrical breaker box. He then proceeded to cut a hole in the outside and inside wall to run the wiring to install a Back Porch Light and Wall Switch, which I had provided to him.
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional and the installation looks great. I felt his pricing for the service would be in line with their competitors even tough I had not done any comparison (which was rare for me to do). I would not hesitate to have
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
to provide me with future services.
- Cosby K.

I used Angie's list in my
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
for electricians to give me an estimate on installing a new ceiling fan and light. On Tuesday evening June 9 I emailed four electricians through Angie's list, giving a brief explanation of the project and asking for an estimate.
Three days later I had heard from only one of the four electricians. Because I wanted more than one estimate, on Friday June 12 I called
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, as well as the two others I hadn't heard from, asking for an estimate. The
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
employee I talked with apologized that there was no record of my email. She told me she'd need to talk with the person who would conduct the estimate and get back to me Monday or Tuesday of the following week.
The second electrician I called set up an appointment with me for 10 a.m. June 16. The third electrician I called set an appointment for an estimate on Wednesday, June 17 at 3 p.m.
Monday, June 15 I received a call from
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
to tell me their estimator would be at my home for an estimate at 10:00 a.m. the following day, June 16. I replied that I had already made an appointment for that date and time with another electrician. Her response was to say she had told me it would probably be Tuesday when the
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
estimator would come. I had
understood she would call by Tuesday the 16th to set up a date and time and explained that to her. Evidently our earlier communication had not been as clear as I thought.
Next, the
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
Employee asked me how many electricians I had contacted for estimates. When I answered, "four," she exclaimed that hardly anyone contacts that many businesses for an estimate. I replied that I had never hired an electrician in Spokane and wanted at least three estimates. I made four original contacts to make it more likely I would have three estimates with which to work.
I told her I'd be happy for the estimator to come earlier on the 16th, at 8 or 9 a.m. Neither of those times would work for the estimator. Then I suggested the afternoon of the 16th or early afternoon the 17th. She said she’d need to ask the estimator and get back to me. No one from
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
called me to set an appointment.
The second electrician kept the appointment and gave me an estimate. One of the four I originally contacted called to say he had just been awarded two large jobs and wouldn’t be able to do my work. The third electrician gave me an estimate; I decided not to have him do the work.
I still hoped to get an estimate from
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
and called the week of June 22 asking once again for an estimate for the work from their company. On Friday, June 26 the estimator from
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
came to gather the information needed to give me an estimate. He was knowledgeable and pleasant and told me I would have the estimate “next week.” Despite two telephone calls to the business saying I was still waiting for an estimate, I never received an estimate from
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Colleen D.

This company was recommended to us by another company that we had contacted. Arrived early, not a bad thing. Did the work in about 1 hour, cleaned up afterwards, even wanted a broom to clean up the dirt that brought in from going under the house. Workers were very polite.
- Karen V.

These folks ROCK. From communication to installation, I would STRONGLY encourage use of this company - Jeremie and his apprentice Vinny completely rebuilt a fan and ensured proper operation prior to departure. Knowledgeable, Informative and Respectful at every turn. Based on my experience. this is a winning company that I will now use for all future electrical projects! Great job guys with sincere thanks
- Patrick L M.

We had an over sink light installed and had outlets and lightswitches replaced in the downstairs of our home after a remodel. Some of our wiring had been wonky and our contractor had a general "handyman" do some electrical work that we weren't confident in, so we called in the pros!
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
was great and we feel much safer with our switches and dishwasher being properly wired.
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
was our electrician and he was very friendly and we felt fine having him in our home. We missed one outlet when they were getting replaced and they came back out to fix it at no cost. Great company.
- Christine S.

Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
Valaske, owner of
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, performed the work in a professional manner, demonstrated the performance of the ground fault circuit he'd installed, and ensured I was satisfied. His work was clean, neat and timely. I recommend him to anyone seeking electrical work. I will definitely use him again.
- Ron T.

I have used them before and
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his son,
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, have always been very polite and professional. Being that my home is a older home there are always something that is not just right.
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his son took the time to figure it out and their time was certainly appreciated. I have never had a problem with the work they have done. I would recommend them to my family and friends.
- Debbie Y.

When the workers arrived I (husband) asked what was being done beyond the box. Was told that only the box replacement is being done This didn't meet my wife expectation that outlets would be run to the new junctures on the electrical panel. I told worker that this is not what we expected and we needed to find out what the additional costs would be, since we still wanted it. The worker called
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
the company owner and the one who made the sale. I told him I needed to know the additional cost to run outlets to the box. He said he couldn't tell me today but (his company) will do the box today. I replied it would be foolish for me to approve the box when I don't know whether the additional cost is $100 or $10,000. He adamantly insisted that we do the job of putting the box in now. He insisted that his estimate was a contract, but I responded that there is an implied expectation the work done would be to address our need.

I told him we weren't going forward unless we knew the total cost. He got angry so I gave the phone back to the worker. Subsequently I paid the workers $75 each (handed worker $100 and $50 bills) for their troubles and gave them $150 check ( which would've been the down payment if paid in advance) for the company. Thus we paid $300 for no work. [$150 for workers & $150 deposit]

Five minutes later
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
(owner) arrives and insists that I continue with the job. I told him no. He says I'm not going to cheat him.. He said he would
Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked
me. I told him to do so, as the job had different meanings and end results. I told him I'd pay the advance deposit he didn't collect and any permit fees paid. However, I told him I'm not continuing with the box installation and leave my property. He said he was not leaving and dared me to call the police. So I walked into my kitchen to call them. By then he was at my back door telling me to turn around. So I did and he had a badge pushed against the screen. I walked out of the kitchen on to the porch to view the badge as he was walking away. I asked to see the badge again. He wouldn't show it.

Instead, He said he should punch me in the mouth. Then he walked towards me and asked if I wanted to fight. (I'm in my mid-60's, he appears to be near 30). I walked away. He then shouted a racial insult which I ignored. Now completely out of control, He then said he is going to come by my house and vandalize it by pulling out the entire electrical service. I asked him to repeat the threat. He did.

He got in his truck and left, as I walked inside and called the police. The police interviewed me and will have a police report ready in 5 days. I waited three days to see if he would call an apologize. He had previously done work in our home without incident. He didn't call. Thus I opted to post this review as a warning for others.


Reeseville Electricians Provider Name Locked

- James P.

Electricians in Reeseville, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A to Z Handyman

6943 248th Ave

A-A Exteriors

N2575 Orchard Way

Action Organizing Services LLC®

5464 N Port Washington Rd

Adams Columbia Electric Cooperative

401 E Lake St

All Around

701 Decatur Ave. N

All Energy Solar

1642 Carroll Ave

All Energy Solar

121 Orange St

American Weathermakers

341 Anthony Trl

AP Electric & Generators LLC

8401 102nd Street
Pleasant Prairie



Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

CB Electric

259 N Watertown St

Central State Electric Corporation

3017 Hoover Road, Suite E
Stevens Point

Dauman Electric

295 Swarthout Rd
Fall River

DC Electric

23520 82nd Pl

Derkson Home Remodeling

1390 Mulberry Lane

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dunn Lumber

826 N St
Lake Geneva


5660 Noble St Gratiot, WI 53541

Eisch Electric Inc.

PO Box 621

Elect-Tech Inc

411 Travis Lane

Electronic Innovations

4403 Stewart Ave

Elite Electrical Contractors LLC

34231 High Dr
East Troy

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Giovanoni True Value Hardware

303 Silver St

Gray Electric LLC

N4717 Hwy 12-16


N4729 LOW RD

Handiman Services

E1563 Murray Ln

J & B Electric

M307 County Road E

J. D. Construction G.C.

300 e mount morris ave.



K & N Services

9920 W St Rd 213

Lifetime Electric

N7049 State Road 26

Midwest Electric LLC

PO Box 268
Johnson Creek

PHE Contractors, Inc.

614 N. High

Property Image LLC

967 Jonathon Dr


Fort Atkinson

Rein Electric Inc

700 E Park Ave


2588 County Road B

Sunrise Builders

28501 116th St.

Sure-Fire Inc

617 Washington St

The Electrician Inc

515 Springdale St
Mount Horeb

TLC Property Maintenance

W542 Pond Rd.

Tom Gagliardi Electric Co., LLC

4300 43rd Ave




12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866


P.O. Box 286

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

Woodland Painting Company

7411-95th Ave

Shop Local Electrician Services in Reeseville, WI

Reeseville Zip Codes

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