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A
"We had a small amount of water coming through our basement ceiling one day and a deluge a few days later. We used Angie’s List to call Cliff. We thought" it might be coming from our kitchen sink but really weren’t sure. We left a message for Cliff and he called us back the same day and set an appointment for the next day. Cliff was friendly and professional. He listened to what we had to say and then investigated the issue. He checked everything and then double checked it. In his investigations he found a few other little things that we were then able to fix before they became bigger, more expensive, problems. It turned out the problem was a pipe in the powder room behind the kitchen. He had to rip out part of the powder room wall to get a good idea of the extent of the problem. It had totally rotted through. Cliff explained all the issues and the different solutions. He spent the time needed to determine the problem. The job was too big to do in the time allotted. He set it up to minimize the leak as much as possible and he promised to come back early the next day and fix everything, which he did. Both times he cleaned up before leaving and made sure the plaster dust from the wall didn’t go all over the house. He did a beautiful job. It has been a week and the leaks are gone and the drain he cleaned out for us runs like a dream. Cliff was nice, professional and an excellent plumber. His fees are very reasonable. A terrific combination and when we need a plumber again, Cliff is the one we are going to call.

-Kathryn E.

A
"The provider came to my house and the problem had resolved itself. He was very nice and did not bill us since he didn't have to do any work and even said he" would give us a full refund. I kept the deal assuming we would need it at some point because he was nice and reasonable from the start.

-Dave & Mollie K.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Plymouth

A

Rating
We purchased a new kitchen faucet at Home Depot. When
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
checked all the parts on the new faucet, he found a metal part was completely broken off. We obtained a new faucet in a few days and
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
returned promptly when phoned and installed the new one with no problem and no extra cost to us for his 2nd trip to our home. He was neat and very knowledgeable in his work. I would not hesitate to phone him again.
- Joan H.
A

Rating
I called the night before after 6pm and my called was answered. They told me that someone would be at my home at 9am the following day.
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived at 9am sharp and ready to go. He was polite, professional and efficient. I explained that I called the night before and he told me he had been assigned the job at 4am! I greatly appreciate the prompt service as I was under some very sever time restraints. Thank you again
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
!!!!
- Melissa L.
A

Rating
He did a wonderful job, came within 15 mins of calling him, was here about 45 mins, normally charged $95 an hour, but gave me an Angie's list discount. Did a very excellent job and very professional person.
- ALEXANDRA S.
A

Rating
Fast and reliable. I'm impressed because they answered my call and came to my house almost immediately.
The technicians were professionals, reliable, and polite.
The price was high, but I know they came almost immediately and this makes the difference.
- fatima R.
A

Rating
Performed the work as part of an inspection of a new home purchase. Worked with the existing homeowner's schedule. Was very responsive and kept me in the loop at all times (even to tell me that his camera needed repair). Would recommend for any sewer related work.
- Jamel D.
A

Rating
Plymouth Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was very pleasant, professional and respectful. He arrived on time and focused on the job at hand. He suggested ideas to avoid future plumbing problems. I will use him again.
- Olayinka B.
A

Rating
I purchased the special Angie's List $99 Outdoor Hose Faucet Replacement special. Within an hour of purchasing the special online, the contractor called me to confirm the date & time, and to confirm the address.
On the morning of 8/25/15, he was scheduled for 10-10:30am. I planned on working from home that day anyway, so my availability was flexible. He actually showed-up at 8:30, which was fine with me. I showed him the faucet to be replaced, then opened the bulkhead door so he could access the basement.
Approximately one hour later, I had a new outdoor faucet. Everything appeared to be buttoned-up properly with regards to the siding & the faucet connection to the basement, and no mess was left behind.
All home repair jobs should be so easy!


- JOHN J.
A

Rating
I called that am and they arrived in couple hours knew what to do and water was standing in my kitchen sink cleaned up after he was done and has work fine since
- Peggy C.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Plymouth, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A.S.A.P Sewer & Drain Cleaning LLC

2780 Helsinki Rd
Green Bay

Clearwater Plumbing Service Llc

N5005 French Rd
Seymour

CNR Plumbing & Heating

829 Bechaud Ave
Fond Du Lac

D R HANSEN PLUMBING

55 KNAPP ST
Oshkosh

HOCKERS PLUMBING INC.

2045 Profit Place
De Pere

Hurckman Heating & Cooling

PO Box 10977
Green Bay

K. Kelly, Inc.

2057 Bellevue St.
Green Bay

Karls Mechanical Contractors, Inc.

954 Forward Avenue
Chilton

Ken's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 118
Sherwood

MAND PLUMBING LLC

PO BOX 1341
Fond Du Lac

Re-Bath of Central Wisconsin

230 N Koeller St.
Oshkosh

Roto-Rooter

Sheboygan

SALM PLUMBING INC

208 E North St
Appleton

Sammons Plumbing Oshkosh Inc

522 W Murdock Ave
Oshkosh

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